Trek BB90 Bearing Fit
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Trek BB90 Bearing Fit
Hi all,
When servicing the BB90 bottom bracket on my 2014 Trek Madone (approx. 4000km ridden) I noticed that the bearings on both sides are able to be removed and inserted by hand. They seem to sit fairly snug in the frame, so I didn't use a press to reinstall them and there's no movement or creaking whatsoever.
I've read numerous explanations online e.g:
- "The BB90 is 'slip-fit' and doesn't require a press"
- "Use Loctite 609 on the outer race to keep it in place"
- "The carbon has worn away so use Trek's oversized bearings and press them in"
However I can't find a definitive answer. I'm assuming everything is fine because there's no creaking, but any information to give me peace of mind is much appreciated.
Thanks!
When servicing the BB90 bottom bracket on my 2014 Trek Madone (approx. 4000km ridden) I noticed that the bearings on both sides are able to be removed and inserted by hand. They seem to sit fairly snug in the frame, so I didn't use a press to reinstall them and there's no movement or creaking whatsoever.
I've read numerous explanations online e.g:
- "The BB90 is 'slip-fit' and doesn't require a press"
- "Use Loctite 609 on the outer race to keep it in place"
- "The carbon has worn away so use Trek's oversized bearings and press them in"
However I can't find a definitive answer. I'm assuming everything is fine because there's no creaking, but any information to give me peace of mind is much appreciated.
Thanks!
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I can't answer your question but I can direct you to this as a cautionary/what not to do tale. https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycl...mance-non.html
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Ex Trek employee here. The bearings should need a press to be installed. If you can remove/install them by hand the frame has worn. You need to first try the V2 OS bearings. They are .1mm larger in diameter than the stock 37.0mm bearings. If those are not snug Trek has supplied a kit to it's dealers...well, at least the company owned stores have them...that can be used to machine out a little more carbon which is then replaced w/ a glued in carbon ring that brings the bearing interface back to the correct size. Only use grease when installing the bearings. This has happened on thousands of frames and has been repaired thousands of times at Trek in WI. It's an easy fix for a truly annoying problem...which is why Trek is slowly going back to threaded bottom brackets.
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I can't answer your question but I can direct you to this as a cautionary/what not to do tale. https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycl...mance-non.html
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#6
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Ex Trek employee here. The bearings should need a press to be installed. If you can remove/install them by hand the frame has worn. You need to first try the V2 OS bearings. They are .1mm larger in diameter than the stock 37.0mm bearings. If those are not snug Trek has supplied a kit to it's dealers...well, at least the company owned stores have them...that can be used to machine out a little more carbon which is then replaced w/ a glued in carbon ring that brings the bearing interface back to the correct size. Only use grease when installing the bearings. This has happened on thousands of frames and has been repaired thousands of times at Trek in WI. It's an easy fix for a truly annoying problem...which is why Trek is slowly going back to threaded bottom brackets.
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Ex Trek employee here. The bearings should need a press to be installed. If you can remove/install them by hand the frame has worn. You need to first try the V2 OS bearings. They are .1mm larger in diameter than the stock 37.0mm bearings. If those are not snug Trek has supplied a kit to it's dealers...well, at least the company owned stores have them...that can be used to machine out a little more carbon which is then replaced w/ a glued in carbon ring that brings the bearing interface back to the correct size. Only use grease when installing the bearings. This has happened on thousands of frames and has been repaired thousands of times at Trek in WI. It's an easy fix for a truly annoying problem...which is why Trek is slowly going back to threaded bottom brackets.
#8
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It's more likely to accelerate wear of the bore. It's a good idea to order the oversized v2 bearings, it is likely to prolong the life of your bb shell.
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Ex Trek employee here. The bearings should need a press to be installed. If you can remove/install them by hand the frame has worn. You need to first try the V2 OS bearings. They are .1mm larger in diameter than the stock 37.0mm bearings. If those are not snug Trek has supplied a kit to it's dealers...well, at least the company owned stores have them...that can be used to machine out a little more carbon which is then replaced w/ a glued in carbon ring that brings the bearing interface back to the correct size. Only use grease when installing the bearings. This has happened on thousands of frames and has been repaired thousands of times at Trek in WI. It's an easy fix for a truly annoying problem...which is why Trek is slowly going back to threaded bottom brackets.
#11
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There are two loctite products for slip fit bearings, one for loose and one for snug. Buy and use.
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If the standard bearings don't fit tight you need the V2 oversized bearing...not Loctite.
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Because my experience tells me that is what works. I don't exactly trust the Trek engineers that recommend grease because they came up w/ the stupid idea in the first place, but I do trust my rather extensive experience w/ these frames.
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I was replacing these before Trek supplied the carbon ring. The first line of repair, always, was the oversize bearing. If the customer managed to booger his frame with those, we'd put in another set of oversize bearings and hold them in place with Loctite 640. After that I never had one work loose, but I also had the good fortune to never have to pop a worn one out for replacement. I retired, and then the shop shut down.
Last edited by oldbobcat; 08-17-21 at 08:37 PM.
#22
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I had a non drive side bearing fail on a 2017 Trek Domane. Drive side bearing still spins smooth. Should I leave well enough alone and leave this bearing in place?
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#24
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Still tight and runs smooth. For when I have to change in future how would I get this bearing out? There was a space behind non drive side so I could tap bearing out with drift. On the drive side the bearing is right up against a plastic sleeve of same diameter leaving no lip.
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The plastic sleeve is 2 piece and overlaps in the middle. Should be the same on both sides. Ideally you pull the bearing out with a tool that's made for that job. I used to use the Enduro press/remover tool. I have hammered them out with a drift, just be careful not to damage the carbon.