sci guy's & SmellyAir's CAAD4 Bike Build Bromance
06-01-22, 09:19 AM
#26
bill nyecycles
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Just a few more updates at the moment - I'm running into some issue with my stem - might need to replace it, we'll see...
Front derailleur attached
Added the brakes
Cassette - 105 GS, 11-34t
Zipp Service Course SL 80mm stem - the chimney on top is temporary until I get the fit on this new bike dialed in. Will chop the steerer when ready.
105 STIs added
First time working with fancy new shifters - most of my bikes are vintage and aren't as complicated - these were kind of a pain to work with.
Cabled up. Color coordination matters!
I'm very happy with this Zonda wheelset as well, I've been weighing pretty much everything, but since wheels are often the heaviest parts, here's the weights with tires and tubes installed:
More soon!
Front derailleur attached
Added the brakes
Cassette - 105 GS, 11-34t
Zipp Service Course SL 80mm stem - the chimney on top is temporary until I get the fit on this new bike dialed in. Will chop the steerer when ready.
105 STIs added
First time working with fancy new shifters - most of my bikes are vintage and aren't as complicated - these were kind of a pain to work with.
Cabled up. Color coordination matters!
I'm very happy with this Zonda wheelset as well, I've been weighing pretty much everything, but since wheels are often the heaviest parts, here's the weights with tires and tubes installed:
More soon!
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06-01-22, 01:28 PM
#27
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... I just needed to snug them, but I was impressed with how well it fit into the cups and felt pretty sturdy.
https://www.amazon.com/BlueSunshine-...NrPXRydWU&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/BlueSunshine-...NrPXRydWU&th=1
06-01-22, 01:48 PM
#28
bill nyecycles
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Sorry I thought I mentioned earlier in the thread I went to my buddy's place who has the expensive Parktool press, and he put it in.
06-01-22, 02:13 PM
#29
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Yes, you did; I just did not expect him to have done a worse job with a more expensive tool! I thought somehow the headset had got just slightly loose.
06-04-22, 04:53 PM
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Today I managed to chisel the old crown race off the fork. Baby steps.
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06-05-22, 08:46 AM
#32
Cafe Racer
It's fun to watch your builds as I just sold my R1000 in the same paint last week! I had put some Bontager 40mm wheels on mine but it was stock otherwise. I ultimately switched because I got tired of how twitchy the steering was without the stability of newer geometry. That was my only complaint though after years of reliable service.
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06-05-22, 07:05 PM
#33
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Just about done, actually.
Put the RD on, and adjusted it to make sure it cleared the largest cog in the cassette
Got the housing sized right
Cabling & setting up the front derailleur is much more complex with these newer ones than with the classic/vintage ones I'm used to working with.
And here's the final weigh-in. This is with pedals, cages, tape, etc. Depending on it I cut the steerer, I might shed a few grams, but overall I am pretty stoked about the weight. I wasn't trying to be a weight weenie with this - I never have, but I thought i'd have some fun and see what I could get it down to. Its got some heavier Shimano M520 SPD pedals on it currently, maybe I'll upgade to some nice ultegra or look pedals in the future. Probably not though because I like to be able to walk normally off the bike. Anyone suggest lighter 2-bolt SPDs?
I didn't take a "final done pic" yet because I'm not 100% done with dialing in fit so that's still forthcoming. I also already had to order a different seatpost because the setback Thomson will not work - I need to lower it enough that it's reaching the bend in the post. I always knew because of the size & the geometry of these frames that I wouldn't have a ton of seatpost showing, and I was worried about how much I would actually have to lower, and it turns out I was right. Thankfully, I found one at Pro Bike Kit for $85, instead of the $125+ on amazon or other US sites. So, hopefully that will arrive soon. I'll still ride it in the meantime, it'll just a little stretchy. If I ever have the money to upgrade the crank from 5800 to whatever the current is, I'll also get a 165mm one instead of the 170 I've got now.
So, more pics forthcoming shortly.
Put the RD on, and adjusted it to make sure it cleared the largest cog in the cassette
Got the housing sized right
Cabling & setting up the front derailleur is much more complex with these newer ones than with the classic/vintage ones I'm used to working with.
And here's the final weigh-in. This is with pedals, cages, tape, etc. Depending on it I cut the steerer, I might shed a few grams, but overall I am pretty stoked about the weight. I wasn't trying to be a weight weenie with this - I never have, but I thought i'd have some fun and see what I could get it down to. Its got some heavier Shimano M520 SPD pedals on it currently, maybe I'll upgade to some nice ultegra or look pedals in the future. Probably not though because I like to be able to walk normally off the bike. Anyone suggest lighter 2-bolt SPDs?
I didn't take a "final done pic" yet because I'm not 100% done with dialing in fit so that's still forthcoming. I also already had to order a different seatpost because the setback Thomson will not work - I need to lower it enough that it's reaching the bend in the post. I always knew because of the size & the geometry of these frames that I wouldn't have a ton of seatpost showing, and I was worried about how much I would actually have to lower, and it turns out I was right. Thankfully, I found one at Pro Bike Kit for $85, instead of the $125+ on amazon or other US sites. So, hopefully that will arrive soon. I'll still ride it in the meantime, it'll just a little stretchy. If I ever have the money to upgrade the crank from 5800 to whatever the current is, I'll also get a 165mm one instead of the 170 I've got now.
So, more pics forthcoming shortly.
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06-05-22, 07:17 PM
#34
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the sci guy Glad you are just about done.
Exercise in frustration for me this afternoon. Cannot get the Cane Creek 40 headset bottom cup all the way in and flush, one side has a 1 mm gap after 3 tries. Must find an LBS to do that part next week.
Exercise in frustration for me this afternoon. Cannot get the Cane Creek 40 headset bottom cup all the way in and flush, one side has a 1 mm gap after 3 tries. Must find an LBS to do that part next week.
06-05-22, 07:52 PM
#35
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the sci guy Glad you are just about done.
Exercise in frustration for me this afternoon. Cannot get the Cane Creek 40 headset bottom cup all the way in and flush, one side has a 1 mm gap after 3 tries. Must find an LBS to do that part next week.
Exercise in frustration for me this afternoon. Cannot get the Cane Creek 40 headset bottom cup all the way in and flush, one side has a 1 mm gap after 3 tries. Must find an LBS to do that part next week.
06-05-22, 07:58 PM
#36
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Is there something in the headtube - like a metal shaving or a a gouge or something that its getting caught on? It's also possible the bottom of the headtube isn't straight/flush due to manufacturing defect or maybe it got bent/dented over the years. So you could be putting it in just fine but it's leaving that gap behind - similar to my stem problem.
06-05-22, 10:03 PM
#37
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I don't think so. Headtube feels OK after I tapped out the cups from the old headset and cleaned it. And gap was at different spots after different tries. Perhaps that cheap press just does not apply pressure evenly enough. I have contacted some LBS via Yelp. It's that or the $80 tool.
06-05-22, 10:07 PM
#38
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Same as yours: BlueSunshine Bike Headset Cup and Bottom Bracket Press Installation Tool,Bike Headset Press-in Tool,Bicycle Repair Accessories Bearing Installer (Silver) : Sports & Outdoors (amazon.com).
Update: Visited my friend who has a strut spring compressor (for installing shock absorber in automotive coil over suspension), which we tried to use to press in the bottom cup to no avail. That contraption is stronger than any headset press, and we just kept cracking the protective wood boards.
So I took my frame and the Cane Creek 40 EC headset external cups to an LBS, and the mechanic there determined that the flanges of the cups are just slightly too tall for the corresponding ridges within the head tube. He said that is not surprising as Cannondale (and other U.S. frame manufacturers) often specified a non-standard headset size, even though the old headset was still a Cane Creek model supplied by Cane Creek. He will mill the flanges down to make them slightly shorter and press the cups into the head tube.
Update: Visited my friend who has a strut spring compressor (for installing shock absorber in automotive coil over suspension), which we tried to use to press in the bottom cup to no avail. That contraption is stronger than any headset press, and we just kept cracking the protective wood boards.
So I took my frame and the Cane Creek 40 EC headset external cups to an LBS, and the mechanic there determined that the flanges of the cups are just slightly too tall for the corresponding ridges within the head tube. He said that is not surprising as Cannondale (and other U.S. frame manufacturers) often specified a non-standard headset size, even though the old headset was still a Cane Creek model supplied by Cane Creek. He will mill the flanges down to make them slightly shorter and press the cups into the head tube.
Last edited by SoSmellyAir; 06-06-22 at 03:40 PM.
06-07-22, 01:45 PM
#39
bill nyecycles
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Same as yours: BlueSunshine Bike Headset Cup and Bottom Bracket Press Installation Tool,Bike Headset Press-in Tool,Bicycle Repair Accessories Bearing Installer (Silver) : Sports & Outdoors (amazon.com).
Update: Visited my friend who has a strut spring compressor (for installing shock absorber in automotive coil over suspension), which we tried to use to press in the bottom cup to no avail. That contraption is stronger than any headset press, and we just kept cracking the protective wood boards.
So I took my frame and the Cane Creek 40 EC headset external cups to an LBS, and the mechanic there determined that the flanges of the cups are just slightly too tall for the corresponding ridges within the head tube. He said that is not surprising as Cannondale (and other U.S. frame manufacturers) often specified a non-standard headset size, even though the old headset was still a Cane Creek model supplied by Cane Creek. He will mill the flanges down to make them slightly shorter and press the cups into the head tube.
Update: Visited my friend who has a strut spring compressor (for installing shock absorber in automotive coil over suspension), which we tried to use to press in the bottom cup to no avail. That contraption is stronger than any headset press, and we just kept cracking the protective wood boards.
So I took my frame and the Cane Creek 40 EC headset external cups to an LBS, and the mechanic there determined that the flanges of the cups are just slightly too tall for the corresponding ridges within the head tube. He said that is not surprising as Cannondale (and other U.S. frame manufacturers) often specified a non-standard headset size, even though the old headset was still a Cane Creek model supplied by Cane Creek. He will mill the flanges down to make them slightly shorter and press the cups into the head tube.
06-07-22, 02:00 PM
#40
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06-07-22, 03:45 PM
#42
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06-07-22, 04:57 PM
#43
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a little stretchy. i think the non-setback seatpost will be helpful in bringing me forward a little. Also seat is still a little high so the straight post will let me lower it a few cms as well. felt fast though. only my first ride, thogh.
06-07-22, 05:27 PM
#44
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Headset external cups installed into headtube successfully.
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06-08-22, 07:00 PM
#46
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06-09-22, 10:18 PM
#47
bill nyecycles
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im waiting on my seat post still, plus some custom stem caps.
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06-12-22, 05:57 PM
#48
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The Cane Creek 40 EC headset (- top cap) is now installed. Only 58 mm of exposed 1" steerer tube, which means I need a 60 mm long 1" to 1-1/8" stem shim. Looks like I will need a wider top cap too; the one that comes with this headset does not look like it would cover both the shim and the stem.
Last edited by SoSmellyAir; 06-12-22 at 06:07 PM.
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06-13-22, 05:53 PM
#49
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I ordered 2 custom stem caps from stemcaps.com - maybe that’ll be in your future too lol
i wanted custom designs, so I sent them some image files and they made them and they just arrived today. Haven’t put them on the bike yet but the caps themselves look great. They are interchangeable by just popping the top off and on.
I wanted the Icelandic stave Vegvísir, which helps you find your way home through bad weather, and I also got my fav Pink Floyd logo from their Division Bell days.
i wanted custom designs, so I sent them some image files and they made them and they just arrived today. Haven’t put them on the bike yet but the caps themselves look great. They are interchangeable by just popping the top off and on.
I wanted the Icelandic stave Vegvísir, which helps you find your way home through bad weather, and I also got my fav Pink Floyd logo from their Division Bell days.
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06-13-22, 11:46 PM
#50
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the sci guy You custom stem caps are pretty styling; things sure are simpler when you have a 1-1/8" steerer! I have to use a 1" to 1-1/8" shim, so if I want a top cap that would cover both the shim and the steerer, this Wolf Tooth integrated top cap and spacer seems a safer bet:
Amazon.com : Wolf Tooth Components Anodized Bling Kit - Red : Sports & Outdoors
I am still debating red vs. orange. Advice?
You would also be happy to hear that I refrained from ordering a FC-R7000 crank in silver to save $10. Given my slow progress, I can wait to see if there are any 7/4 sale on the crankset.
Amazon.com : Wolf Tooth Components Anodized Bling Kit - Red : Sports & Outdoors
I am still debating red vs. orange. Advice?
You would also be happy to hear that I refrained from ordering a FC-R7000 crank in silver to save $10. Given my slow progress, I can wait to see if there are any 7/4 sale on the crankset.