Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

Schwinn Hi-Bread 650B(odge) Project

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Schwinn Hi-Bread 650B(odge) Project

Old 09-05-21, 07:54 PM
  #1  
mrv 
BIKE RIDE
Thread Starter
 
mrv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,463

Bikes: my very own customized GUNNAR CrossHairs

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 385 Post(s)
Liked 199 Times in 131 Posts
Schwinn Hi-Bread 650B(odge) Project

Cheers, everyone. Happy Labor Day.
Contemplating a bad idea in a serious way. One could argue the definition of "hobby" is spending a spare bit of money on something you shouldn't, using time you'll never get back, I suppose.
The Project Bike:
Picked up a lugged '91 (I think) CrissCross frameset for $40. I suppose with the canti-brakes included not entirely throwing money away. I was trying to figure out if these were Taiwanese made or sourced out of China. Seems really difficult to tell with the state of Schwinn at the time. I think it's the '91 CrissCrosseseses that came from China, TIG welded.
https://waterfordbikes.com/SchwinnCa...0/1991_16.html

- frameset as purchased for $40 American Dollars
I'll be dumping images here as things "progress": https://www.bikeforums.net/g/album/22071384#

Some Measurements, center to center:
TT: 60cm; ST: 55cm; CS: 43cm; HT: 13cm; BB to Front Axle: 66cm; Wheelbase: ?? 130mm rear hub width; Seat post: 26.6mm
BB Drop: 70mm ; Tire Clearance: sold in 1991 with 700c X 38mm (and mine fit also, see gallery); BB to ground: 290mm with 700c X 38mm tires
For comparison I've included pics of my GUNNAR CrossHairs (BB to gnd: 280mm), The Most Comfortable Bike in the World, and my touring/camping/commuter RockHopper ( BB to gnd: 295mm w/ 26in x 2.0in tires)
- Dunno the Baby-Bronco Sport tire size……



The Bodge:
Relocate the canti-brake bosses to work with 650B wheels (7mm offset for front; 9mm for rear): https://cycle-frames.com/products/20...40125656629406

add down tube shifter bosses https://cycle-frames.com/products/20...40125482696862

add mid-fork rack bosses

rattle can the frame purple, black-purple! https://www.montana-cans.com/en/spra...d-400ml-colors

I’ve silver brazed rack bosses, bottle bosses, and shifter bosses before with MAPP/air. I’m a bit nervous about silver brazing brake bosses. The forces on them are higher and cyclical. It’s not like I’ve never gone over the handle bars before, it’s just I’ve never enjoyed it. So having a brake boss pop off and pull the brake cables into the front wheel….. welp, I suppose it could happen on my 30 year old RockHopper (or 35 year old Miyata) as well.

Sheldon Brown makes brazing brake bosses look easy! I just need to bodge a jig first: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-fixture.html

On the other hand, I’m $90 and 3 hours of driving from having a pro do it: https://www.assenmachers.com/about/2...rame-pg171.htm

Locating the bosses, I’m assuming this is correct: Zen and the Art of Bicycle Building: braze-on distances index
700C(622) = 283mm
650B(584) = 265mm
26"(559) = 253.5mm
A post center to post center measurement of 80mm works best for most.

Components:
650B wheels, of course. I figure I’ll have to build those, as I almost never see 650B rim brake wheelsets for sale. Contemplating going with a generator hub, up market to a SON, if I can. Probably Cliffhanger rims, as my RockHopper has been on a set of those for a couple of years. Heavy, but round and true. For tires I gotta go with 50mm, like my RockHopper. With 650b X 50mm, I am estimating the bike will only be 7mm lower than the 700c X 38mm. The blue tape on the frame are measurements with best guesses where a 50mm tire will end up in the frame. I anticipate having clearance where I need it.

Shifting: To get things rolling I’ll probably use SHIMANO Z-series road components in my parts bin, FD-Z7202 / RD-Z503. Or I got some DEORE LX front/rear mechs. Suggestions? Maybe the DEORE works better if I use a triple crankset? Not sure.

Crankset: Not sure. I’ve got a CAMPY double, 170mm. Rings are OK. I also have a DEORE triple crankset 175mm, but no rings. The GUNNAR has 175. My Schwinn Super Le Tour 12.2 also, I think. And my TREK 420 & Miyata 1000 have 170mm. The RockHopper.... I need to check. My BIANCHI trail bike, 170mm.

I’ve got a set of DT Rivendell shifters I plan on using. I’ve got a couple sets of DIA COMP cantibrakes, so I’ll start off with those. Since the TT is so long, I’m planning on Albatross bars, I’ve got a set on Schwinn Super Le Tour 12.2, and I like them pretty well. Not sure about brake levers. Tempted to go up market with some Paul’s. I have a set on my RockHopper, and I lover that there no “up/down” play, like my $20 Dia Comps on my Miyata.

I think that’s it for the moment. Now I finally got this typed up and posted, I’ll get my braze-on bits ordered so I can start practicing (I've got another RockHopper frame that's cracked 'round the bottom bracket, so I'm going to practice on that).
I’d like to get the frame, brazed, stripped, and primer’d before it’s too cold to spray in the garage. If I can get anywhere as near a nice job as the dude with the StumpJumper, I'll be geeked.

Any warnings, discouragements, dope-slaps, etc. are much appreciated.

Ciao!
mrv is offline  
Old 09-06-21, 10:18 AM
  #2  
52telecaster
ambulatory senior
 
52telecaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Peoria Il
Posts: 5,083

Bikes: Bob Jackson World Tour, Falcon and lots of other bikes.

Mentioned: 63 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1545 Post(s)
Liked 1,922 Times in 977 Posts
You are brave and I think it's way cool!
52telecaster is offline  
Likes For 52telecaster:
Old 09-06-21, 01:58 PM
  #3  
Hobbiano 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Baton Rouge La
Posts: 1,087
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 341 Post(s)
Liked 264 Times in 180 Posts
Why change to 650b? Does it not have enough tire/ fender clearance as is?
Hobbiano is offline  
Likes For Hobbiano:
Old 09-06-21, 02:02 PM
  #4  
noobinsf 
Senior Member
 
noobinsf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 3,148

Bikes: '82 Univega Competizione, '72 Motobecane Grand Record, '83 Mercian KOM Touring, '85 Univega Alpina Uno, '76 Eisentraut Limited

Mentioned: 55 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1031 Post(s)
Liked 1,046 Times in 627 Posts
Originally Posted by Hobbiano View Post
Why change to 650b? Does it not have enough tire/ fender clearance as is?
This seems more like a “why not” than a “why.” I approve!
noobinsf is offline  
Likes For noobinsf:
Old 09-06-21, 06:23 PM
  #5  
mrv 
BIKE RIDE
Thread Starter
 
mrv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,463

Bikes: my very own customized GUNNAR CrossHairs

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 385 Post(s)
Liked 199 Times in 131 Posts
Originally Posted by Hobbiano View Post
Why change to 650b? Does it not have enough tire/ fender clearance as is?
I frequently tour on 26in X 2in tires when using my RockHopper. I've been wanting to up the wheelsize (650b) for a while now, and still use a 2in tire. I also enjoy "murdering" old frames no one sees any value in. Which is why I can get a steel lugged frame for $40.
Another thing I'm hoping to try is adding a boss to the chain stay for a Nivex derailleur. Probably I'll never get the Nivex derailleur, as my understanding is Jan Heine is going to be selling them for about $1000. (I certainly will NEVER be able to afford an 80th anniversary Rene Herse at $14k!! https://www.renehersecycles.com/nivex-or-etap/)
But if things pan out for me, I hope to have the frame good to go. So I had plans to open this patient anyway.
mrv is offline  
Likes For mrv:
Old 09-06-21, 06:30 PM
  #6  
mrv 
BIKE RIDE
Thread Starter
 
mrv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,463

Bikes: my very own customized GUNNAR CrossHairs

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 385 Post(s)
Liked 199 Times in 131 Posts
Originally Posted by onyerleft View Post
You're preserving the life of a frame by delaying its transition to the landfill. It's good for the environment, and for that I salute you.
Right on! This describes a number of my frames. (not the GUNNAR, I actually bought that new in 2019. Love it. Just love it.)
[begin rant]
Something Mr. Grant Peterson at RivBike.com has pointed out is the relatively environmental friendliness of steel bikes. All the scrap left over from frame building can be recycled. If the scrap does end up in the ocean it sinks! Once it sinks it will just dissolve over time.
Carbon fiber cannot be recycled. The plastic that does end up in the ocean floats! And it just keeps breaking down into smaller bits - and now it's in our food stream! Good night!
I'm not a left winger / enviro-nut, but when I see the proliferation of more and more plastic stuff, I might just end up being one by not changing at all. [end unnecessary rant]
mrv is offline  
Likes For mrv:
Old 09-06-21, 09:27 PM
  #7  
Velo Mule
Senior Member
 
Velo Mule's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,709

Bikes: Trek 800 x 2, Schwinn Heavy Duti, Schwinn Traveler, Schwinn Le Tour Luxe, Schwinn Continental, Cannondale M400 and Lambert, Schwinn Super Sport

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 628 Post(s)
Liked 636 Times in 453 Posts
This looks like a good project.

I think that bronze brazing the canti bosses will be better than silver brazing. There are a few people that hang out on C&V that are frame builders, so I hope that they can give you a more experienced opinion. If not, post the question under Framebuilding.

One of the things that I am looking into for frame modifications is the use of propane - oxygen. It gets hot enough to braze. Propane is widely available and the oxygen can be had from a used oxygen concentrator that are sometime sold on Craigslist.
Velo Mule is offline  
Old 09-07-21, 06:21 AM
  #8  
mrv 
BIKE RIDE
Thread Starter
 
mrv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,463

Bikes: my very own customized GUNNAR CrossHairs

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 385 Post(s)
Liked 199 Times in 131 Posts
Originally Posted by Velo Mule View Post
This looks like a good project.

I think that bronze brazing the canti bosses will be better than silver brazing. There are a few people that hang out on C&V that are frame builders, so I hope that they can give you a more experienced opinion. If not, post the question under Framebuilding.

One of the things that I am looking into for frame modifications is the use of propane - oxygen. It gets hot enough to braze. Propane is widely available and the oxygen can be had from a used oxygen concentrator that are sometime sold on Craigslist.
Thanks!
I've bookmarked / re-reading through a number of older posts on the silver vs. bronze discussion. I've played around with MAPP/air trying to get bronze to flow, and for me it's a no-go. I've seen some Harbor Freight kits with propane / O2 (harbor freight.... what could go wrong with pressurized tanks and open flames......? )
Probably I'll give the silver brazing with MAPP/air a try, and if I give myself a vote of NO CONFIDENCE, I'll see what my options are. (like taking the thing to a pro to do vs. the costs of a torch head and other equipment).
mrv is offline  
Old 09-07-21, 01:40 PM
  #9  
Kevin stafford
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Kernersville NC
Posts: 150
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Liked 39 Times in 9 Posts
I have done a lot of silver brazing over many years as an engineering tech testing cars and heavy trucks, if you do it correctly, you couldn’t knock the bosses off with a sledgehammer.
Kevin stafford is offline  
Likes For Kevin stafford:
Old 09-07-21, 04:25 PM
  #10  
gugie 
Bike Butcher of Portland
 
gugie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 10,779

Bikes: It's complicated.

Mentioned: 1195 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4173 Post(s)
Liked 3,890 Times in 1,688 Posts
It's not uncommon for framebuilders to use silver for brake bosses, as long as you have a good miter with no visible gaps, and get good penetration all around. Brass/bronze is more forgiving.

Since cantilever bosses are relatively cheap, do a practice run and test the strength. That's what I do when attempting something new.

Example: when I was working on a new decaleur design, I did a destructive test on 3:


You can see a small crack in the filler on the right side, but it had to be bent 90 degrees to the side to get that way. I called this one "strong enough"
__________________
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
gugie is offline  
Likes For gugie:
Old 09-21-21, 07:47 PM
  #11  
mrv 
BIKE RIDE
Thread Starter
 
mrv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,463

Bikes: my very own customized GUNNAR CrossHairs

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 385 Post(s)
Liked 199 Times in 131 Posts
sloooow progess

Working on a fixture for the canti posts.
also thought I’d see how difficult it is to remove a post with a MAPP torch, using my busted RockHopper….


mrv is offline  
Old 09-21-21, 09:28 PM
  #12  
lonesomesteve
Senior Member
 
lonesomesteve's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 629
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Liked 151 Times in 50 Posts
Looks like you've already decided to proceed with the plan. For what it's worth, I've silver brazed brake bosses using MAP gas for both cantilever brakes and frame-mounted centerpulls on a few different bikes and I haven't had one fail yet. I'm always careful to get a very tight fitting miter. One bike with frame mounted centerpulls has been ridden nearly 20,000 miles since I brazed on the posts, and it's still holding together.

Go for it! I love to see forgotten old bikes being brought back to life.

Steve
lonesomesteve is offline  
Likes For lonesomesteve:
Old 09-21-21, 09:51 PM
  #13  
repechage
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 17,995
Mentioned: 121 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2619 Post(s)
Liked 1,624 Times in 1,199 Posts
Clean, prep and have a pro do them in “Brass”.

you need big heat and control.

do learn to do brass

pay more if you can don some safety goggles and watch him. A demo will be worth the price.
repechage is offline  
Old 10-03-21, 01:39 PM
  #14  
mrv 
BIKE RIDE
Thread Starter
 
mrv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,463

Bikes: my very own customized GUNNAR CrossHairs

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 385 Post(s)
Liked 199 Times in 131 Posts
sil-braze practice

Seems like I to ride more than bodge, so my post fixture took me a long time….. and several beers…..
pic below is just about the final version.
the boss below is a silver braze. I’m going to practice a couple more times.
i tried brass braze, as I had the stuff laying around, and as the previous reply said, “ya need big heat”. While my mob name is Vinnie Bag’o Donuts, my Ojibwa name must be Lil’ Heat.



mrv is offline  
Likes For mrv:
Old 10-03-21, 03:05 PM
  #15  
mrv 
BIKE RIDE
Thread Starter
 
mrv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,463

Bikes: my very own customized GUNNAR CrossHairs

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 385 Post(s)
Liked 199 Times in 131 Posts
more sili-practice

practice with a little clean up



I think I see my problem….


cheers….
mrv is offline  
Old 10-04-21, 06:23 PM
  #16  
mrv 
BIKE RIDE
Thread Starter
 
mrv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,463

Bikes: my very own customized GUNNAR CrossHairs

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 385 Post(s)
Liked 199 Times in 131 Posts
DT shifter bosses

The DT cable stops were attached with silver braze. Man, the stuff melts fast!
i ended up with a smoking hot boss in my shop apron pocket. I kind pulled the whole deal away from me until it melted through and fell out. I recon I should be careful.

DT shifter bosses are attached. Sil-braze. The location pretty much meets my standards.



RivShifters. The right one has a lot of play. Not sure why.
The left one got bashed a while ago when my bike fell over- the bar end pod got busted.



mrv is offline  
Old 10-08-21, 03:48 AM
  #17  
ShannonM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Humboldt County, CA
Posts: 695
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 320 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 313 Times in 216 Posts
About your RivShifter... I bet that the plastic disc insert rotated when you tightened the post down. At least, that's what happened to me, more than once, when I installed my Silver downtubers last month.

They have only one correct orientation, and they really like to not be in it. If they're not, (and they don't want to be,) the lever sits loose on the boss.

--Shannon
ShannonM is offline  
Old 10-08-21, 04:38 AM
  #18  
mrv 
BIKE RIDE
Thread Starter
 
mrv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,463

Bikes: my very own customized GUNNAR CrossHairs

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 385 Post(s)
Liked 199 Times in 131 Posts
Originally Posted by ShannonM View Post
About your RivShifter... I bet that the plastic disc insert rotated when you tightened the post down. At least, that's what happened to me, more than once, when I installed my Silver downtubers last month.

They have only one correct orientation, and they really like to not be in it. If they're not, (and they don't want to be,) the lever sits loose on the boss.

--Shannon
Right! I saw that little key the plastic washer needs to sit in. I'll double check it. I've already cracked one of them, so I'll probably order a couple from Rivendell. Looks like they sell them for $4.
I think I have a bit more filing to do do, to get the shifter stop to seat a little tighter to the frame.
mrv is offline  
Old 10-24-21, 08:12 PM
  #19  
mrv 
BIKE RIDE
Thread Starter
 
mrv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,463

Bikes: my very own customized GUNNAR CrossHairs

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 385 Post(s)
Liked 199 Times in 131 Posts
fi·as·co
/fēˈaskō/
noun
  1. a thing that is a complete failure, especially in a ludicrous or humiliating way.


The rear triangle canti bosses were brass braze. Melted off. Easy to clean up.
The fork canti bosses were TIG welded. I hack sawed then off. Then the rasp file to take down the bits of boss left after sawing. The rasp file requires care and caution. I used about 3/8 ths of each. So I got a 1mm deep gouge on the front of the fork blade.
The frame builders section gave me ample warning about compromising the fork.
Making things worse, the upper part of the new boss falls over the gouge. Fiasco.

Anyway, I brazed the bosses up.

Left image shows the boss over the gap.
The scars are from the TIG welds.




Welp, probably I’ll strip the paint and coat with a permatex primer. It’s too cold to spray paint until spring.

Maybe I’ll build up the Wheelset this winter. If that happens I might post an update.
That gives me plenty of time to decide if I ever want to ride the bike or not.
Or I might try to find another victim for this project.

cheers for now.
mrv is offline  
Likes For mrv:
Old 07-31-22, 06:38 PM
  #20  
mrv 
BIKE RIDE
Thread Starter
 
mrv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,463

Bikes: my very own customized GUNNAR CrossHairs

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 385 Post(s)
Liked 199 Times in 131 Posts
Last year I mentioned PERMATEX brush on primer. Somebody give me a dope slap next time I bring that *^$# up.
NOW I'm trying to get the frame smooth, but man! is that PERMATEX stuff tough. So sanding - lots of sanding. I would have started on this sooner (no, really!), but instead I went for a bike ride. A bunch of them, really.
Anyway - I'm just trying to get the surface smooth, with the low grit number / abrasive screens / wire brush. I got a few more sessions to go. I might break down and get the aircraft stripper out.

OK - that's it for now.






Painting Reference Links I want to find again: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...pjumper-4.html
https://m.bikeforums.net/showthread....1215931&page=1
https://www.bikeforums.net/framebuil...lear-coat.html

ps - is it a zombie thread if I bring it back? i dunno - maybe should have built the wheels over the winter for motivation.
cheers.
mrv is offline  
Old 08-01-22, 03:13 PM
  #21  
ThermionicScott 
working on my sandal tan
 
ThermionicScott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Posts: 22,078

Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)

Mentioned: 95 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3643 Post(s)
Liked 2,090 Times in 1,326 Posts
Originally Posted by mrv View Post
ps - is it a zombie thread if I bring it back? i dunno - maybe should have built the wheels over the winter for motivation.
cheers.
It's your thread -- sometimes an epic tale takes a while to tell.
__________________
Originally Posted by chandltp View Post
There's no such thing as too far.. just lack of time
Originally Posted by noglider
People in this forum are not typical.
RUSA #7498
ThermionicScott is offline  
Likes For ThermionicScott:
Old 09-29-22, 05:17 PM
  #22  
mrv 
BIKE RIDE
Thread Starter
 
mrv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,463

Bikes: my very own customized GUNNAR CrossHairs

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 385 Post(s)
Liked 199 Times in 131 Posts
is the opposite of congress progress?

progress- welp, primer!





One full can of spray.bike primer.
So which did I screw up? Too thick at once primer coat? Or ordering only one can of purple for the color coat?
Kinda nervous I now need more than one can of color…
mrv is offline  
Likes For mrv:
Old 09-29-22, 07:46 PM
  #23  
madpogue 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Madison, WI USA
Posts: 6,247
Mentioned: 43 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2118 Post(s)
Liked 1,253 Times in 903 Posts
Wow, I thought I was big at 10lb 8oz.....

I vaguely recall the rough guide being 2:1, that is, however much primer you use, you need twice as much color. But it's been 40 years and many dead brain cells since I last painted a bike.
madpogue is offline  
Likes For madpogue:
Old 09-30-22, 08:22 AM
  #24  
RandolphCarter
PeopleCode delaminator
 
RandolphCarter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Round Lake. NY
Posts: 341

Bikes: 1986 Trek 310 Elance, 1997 Schwinn HydraGlide, 1987 Trek Antelope 800, 2003 Haro F4, 198? Allsop Offroad Climber

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 86 Post(s)
Liked 109 Times in 42 Posts
Originally Posted by ThermionicScott View Post
It's your thread -- sometimes an epic tale takes a while to tell.
Annual updates to build threads are also acceptable.
RandolphCarter is offline  
Likes For RandolphCarter:
Old 09-30-22, 09:20 AM
  #25  
Darth Lefty 
Disco Infiltrator
 
Darth Lefty's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Folsom CA
Posts: 13,211

Bikes: Stormchaser, Paramount, Timberjack, Expert TG, Samba tandem

Mentioned: 69 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2886 Post(s)
Liked 1,743 Times in 1,145 Posts
Curious why you used paint for storage and not grease or cosmoline
__________________
Genesis 49:16-17
Darth Lefty is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2022 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.