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Nipples and section rims.

Old 08-05-22, 12:59 AM
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gate28
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Nipples and section rims.

Hullo. Is there anyway to do get nipples down to the holes of a deep section without buying a special tool?
Thanks.
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Old 08-05-22, 01:46 AM
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Just use another spoke threaded a little bit into the top (cap) of the nipple to guide it in and start threading it onto the proper spoke, then unscrew the "tool' spoke
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Old 08-05-22, 02:43 AM
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But for a whole wheel? It would take ages?
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Old 08-05-22, 05:36 AM
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Kabob skewers work if you have a pencil sharpener handy. I build with rims as deep as 88 mm and it works for me.
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Old 08-05-22, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by JoeTBM
Just use another spoke threaded a little bit into the top (cap) of the nipple to guide it in and start threading it onto the proper spoke, then unscrew the "tool' spoke
Originally Posted by gate28
But for a whole wheel? It would take ages?
How long is it taking you to shake each nipple down into the right place in the right orientation?
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Old 08-05-22, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by gate28
But for a whole wheel? It would take ages?
Were you being serious when you typed that?
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Old 08-05-22, 08:40 AM
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JoeTBM's suggestion to thread a spoke into the nipple really doesn't take much time at all and may be the best method. You only need to thread it about two turns. You could also use some old shifter or brake cable, insert cable from inner side of rim into spoke hole, slide spoke nipple on cable down into hole but I think you'll find it's not as quick as using the spoke method. Cable may be substituted with straightened paper clip or a hundred other things.
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Old 08-05-22, 08:44 AM
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I use a machinist's scribe (K&D offers one). At work we use a sharpened spoke. With a little practice one can place the nipple of the sharpened end of the tool, place the nipple into the rim's hole, line up the spoke and get the initial threads to engage before pulling out the tool. One only has to shake the rim if the nipple is lost off the tool before it is started on the spoke threads.

How long this takes? Only an extra minute per spoke. Is this reasonable (my take on the OP's "take ages" comment)? Well if you want to use that rim then yes. That is what that choice will need time wise. Pretty much a choice and result driven need.

I'll make a snarky comment here. If this kind of procedure and the time it takes is unacceptable than don't do it and pay someone else for their skill and patience. If the OP was working for me at a shop I was running and expressed this attitude more than a few times I would wonder why they were trying to be a bike mechanic at all. Andy
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Old 08-05-22, 10:51 AM
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I have a tool that locks into the grove of the spoke head and it comes off easily.

Ullman Devices Ullman DE-2 Aluminum Double Ended Screw Starter - 6-3/4 in. Screw Holder with Phillips and Slotted Head. Industrial Hand Tools: Hand Tools: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement
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Old 08-05-22, 10:58 AM
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I use a cotton swab (Q-tip) with the head cut off at a sharp angle.
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Old 08-05-22, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by gate28
But for a whole wheel? It would take ages?
If that's ages, life is so fleeting for you you'd be dead by now and this post would be moot.
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Old 08-05-22, 12:14 PM
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I have a few of those and I never use them anymore. For 60 mm and under rims I use Wheel Fanatyc nipple holder and the aforementioned kabob skewers for the deeper ones. I find it works better and faster and I lose fewer nipples inside the rim
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Old 08-05-22, 12:30 PM
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Nipple starters

The trick (and it's both easy and fast) - take a dead spoke of the right diameter and thread, screw a nipple on backwards all the way and tighten a little more with the spoke wrench. Cut the spoke roughly midway and bend a nice handle on. This leaves just enough threads to quickly thread the nipple on. Screw on the nipple. Reach in with the nipple, start the spoke, grab with the spoke wrench and unscrew your new tool. (Make separate tools for every thread and diameter that you used.)

Last edited by 79pmooney; 08-05-22 at 12:32 PM. Reason: typos!
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Old 08-05-22, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by veloz
I use a cotton swab (Q-tip) with the head cut off at a sharp angle.
Similar; toothpick with the pointed end trimmed off here. Just cut off a bit more when the end gets munged up.
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Old 08-06-22, 02:26 AM
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Originally Posted by gate28
Hullo. Is there anyway to do get nipples down to the holes of a deep section without buying a special tool?
Thanks.
Originally Posted by JoeTBM
Just use another spoke threaded a little bit into the top (cap) of the nipple to guide it in and start threading it onto the proper spoke, then unscrew the "tool' spoke
Originally Posted by gate28
But for a whole wheel? It would take ages?

So let me understand you, you ask a question looking for "any" answer, we give you one and now you are complaining!

It really doesn't take long, just a few seconds a nipple extra.

The reason I like this method is that the nipple will not slip off the "tool "insuring proper insertion (and easier reinserting), great to work at any angle.
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Old 08-06-22, 02:46 AM
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yes.
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Old 08-06-22, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Dan Burkhart
I have a few of those and I never use them anymore. For 60 mm and under rims I use Wheel Fanatyc nipple holder and the aforementioned kabob skewers for the deeper ones. I find it works better and faster and I lose fewer nipples inside the rim
I don't build many and as of late haven't built any.
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Old 08-06-22, 10:37 AM
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I forgot in my post above what I do each spoke. I poke the nipple driver with spoke through, push the spoke into it, turn the driver until the nipple is fully started, push the spoke into a bend with the hand holding the spoke wrench and tighten spoke to the end of the threads (for usual builds; sometimes I need to let two or three threads show). I can tighten till the spoke hits the driver spoke if I want. I back the driver out while still holding the spoke wrench.

Yes, not an instantaneous process. But I never drop a nipple. And I hate chasing them out. It's also brain dead easy so I can save those cells for truing. And the drivers hand nicely with my spoke wrenches so for next wheel they're ready to go
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Old 08-07-22, 03:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 79pmooney
I forgot in my post above what I do each spoke. I poke the nipple driver with spoke through, push the spoke into it, turn the driver until the nipple is fully started, push the spoke into a bend with the hand holding the spoke wrench and tighten spoke to the end of the threads (for usual builds; sometimes I need to let two or three threads show). I can tighten till the spoke hits the driver spoke if I want. I back the driver out while still holding the spoke wrench.

Yes, not an instantaneous process. But I never drop a nipple. And I hate chasing them out. It's also brain dead easy so I can save those cells for truing. And the drivers hand nicely with my spoke wrenches so for next wheel they're ready to go

Nice solution 79pmooney. This will work for me. Thanks also for all the suggestions.
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Old 08-17-22, 04:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 79pmooney
I forgot in my post above what I do each spoke. I poke the nipple driver with spoke through, push the spoke into it, turn the driver until the nipple is fully started, push the spoke into a bend with the hand holding the spoke wrench and tighten spoke to the end of the threads (for usual builds; sometimes I need to let two or three threads show). I can tighten till the spoke hits the driver spoke if I want. I back the driver out while still holding the spoke wrench.

Yes, not an instantaneous process. But I never drop a nipple. And I hate chasing them out. It's also brain dead easy so I can save those cells for truing. And the drivers hand nicely with my spoke wrenches so for next wheel they're ready to go
Actually this just arrived. What a fantastic tool!
Ullman Devices Ullman DE-2 Aluminum Double Ended Screw Starter - 6-3/4 in. Screw Holder with Phillips and Slotted Head. Industrial Hand Tools: Hand Tools: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement
Perfect.
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