Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Clydesdale Freehub Longevity

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Clydesdale Freehub Longevity

Old 03-26-23, 10:57 PM
  #26  
Kontact 
Senior Member
 
Kontact's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,954
Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4340 Post(s)
Liked 1,526 Times in 995 Posts
Originally Posted by davidad
The reason for the freehub in the first place was to put the right-side bearings nearer to the dropout to eliminate axle flex that caused broken axles on freewheel hubs.
That is the reason, and it works. But we're not talking about axles breaking but failures of the spot where the freehub meets the hub body.
Kontact is offline  
Old 03-26-23, 10:58 PM
  #27  
Kontact 
Senior Member
 
Kontact's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,954
Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4340 Post(s)
Liked 1,526 Times in 995 Posts
Originally Posted by davidad
Shimano, old Suntour, and some older DT hubs have the right-side axle bearings out board to minimize axle flex. Cassette or Freewheel Hubs by Jobst Brandt (sheldonbrown.com)
Are the OPs axles breaking?
Kontact is offline  
Old 03-26-23, 10:59 PM
  #28  
Kontact 
Senior Member
 
Kontact's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,954
Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4340 Post(s)
Liked 1,526 Times in 995 Posts
Originally Posted by davidad
The reason for the larger diameter axle is to solve the problem caused by freewheels. Campy and DT both have glorified freewheels with the right-side loaded axle bearings inboard. The two bearings on the freewheel body don't support the axle.
And that's a problem, why? These hubs don't break axles yet are lighter than Shimano.
Kontact is offline  
Likes For Kontact:
Old 04-05-23, 08:44 PM
  #29  
OldBike876
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 104
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 17 Times in 12 Posts
I got the freehub off and apart. Nothing looks worn (this thing is only 4 months old, of course), no shards of anything, no cracks... nada. It doesn't freewheel well, though, and in the two weeks of this thread it has developed one hell of a creak.

So, it clearly malfunctions in use, but I can't find any obvious faults upon inspection. Weird.
OldBike876 is offline  
Old 05-16-23, 07:30 PM
  #30  
OldBike876
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 104
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 17 Times in 12 Posts
Well, to close this out, it's "fixed" but maybe not for good.

I splurged on a fancy new wheel. I bought it online and fellow I dealt with had some good advice to measure the frame. I did so, and there was a less than 1.5 mm difference at worst. I measured it several times, and would repeatably measure than 1mm difference left to right. The dropouts are square to each other, and I could not find any evidence of frame damage (wrinkled paint, cracks, distortions...)

The new wheel is very nice. I installed it and it was immediately obvious that it does not "drag" like the last one. It's a stark difference: I was coasting down the parkade to bed in the new brake, and it rolled MUCH faster (and I am using the same tire and casette). Also, it's clearly much stiffer than the old wheel.

But.... very occasionally I can hear what I think is the chain hitting the chainstay. That was one of the symptoms that started all of this. It's now a faint, a one-off, and only happens maybe every other day, but only when I transition from pedalling to coasting. It's significantly better.

I guess this means that the problem was unlikely to be in the old wheel, but the new wheel makes it less likely to happen. Anyway, I can live with it, and I'll wait to see what happens next.

Thanks for the theories and advice, as always.
OldBike876 is offline  
Old 05-17-23, 10:48 AM
  #31  
masi61
Senior Member
 
masi61's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 3,681

Bikes: Puch Marco Polo, Saint Tropez, Masi Gran Criterium

Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1163 Post(s)
Liked 441 Times in 314 Posts
Any chance this chainstay slapping of the chain is related to chain length or in someway connected to rear derailleur cage not doing its job properly (and nothing to do with the freehub)?
masi61 is offline  
Old 05-17-23, 11:35 AM
  #32  
CliffordK
Senior Member
 
CliffordK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18350 Post(s)
Liked 4,502 Times in 3,346 Posts


So far I've had absolutely no problems with Shimano style hubs. But, not quite the same weight as the OP, I don't think. However, I've done some loaded touring.

I don't have the FH-M8000. When Shimano moved to 11s, they started using an oversized axle on some of their hubs which I think the M8000 got, even though the freehub body appears to still be the shorter 8-10s freehub.

I would think the oversized axle provisions would make things better, but perhaps not as it may mean all internal freehub components got smaller.

Something like the Shimano XT FH-M756A is dirt cheap, and uses the older style freehub that has had decades of bombproof use might be worth considering trying. Of course, much of the expense is building the wheel.

If the OP wishes to continue with the M8000 hub, it might be beneficial to learn to change the freehub oneself, and replace bearings, check cones, grease up and set the cones. Not a hard job, but a bit tedious.

The NuVinci Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT) hubs are very popular with bikeshare bikes, and are supposed to be very durable. It might be worth considering, although it would be a major upgrade and not cheap.
CliffordK is offline  
Old 05-17-23, 08:53 PM
  #33  
OldBike876
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 104
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 17 Times in 12 Posts
Originally Posted by masi61
Any chance this chainstay slapping of the chain is related to chain length or in someway connected to rear derailleur cage not doing its job properly (and nothing to do with the freehub)?
I do not think so, as the chain slap is from it bunching up between the casette and chainring.
OldBike876 is offline  
Likes For OldBike876:
Old 05-17-23, 09:03 PM
  #34  
OldBike876
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 104
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 17 Times in 12 Posts
Originally Posted by CliffordK


So far I've had absolutely no problems with Shimano style hubs. But, not quite the same weight as the OP, I don't think. However, I've done some loaded touring.

I don't have the FH-M8000. When Shimano moved to 11s, they started using an oversized axle on some of their hubs which I think the M8000 got, even though the freehub body appears to still be the shorter 8-10s freehub.

I would think the oversized axle provisions would make things better, but perhaps not as it may mean all internal freehub components got smaller.

Something like the Shimano XT FH-M756A is dirt cheap, and uses the older style freehub that has had decades of bombproof use might be worth considering trying. Of course, much of the expense is building the wheel.

If the OP wishes to continue with the M8000 hub, it might be beneficial to learn to change the freehub oneself, and replace bearings, check cones, grease up and set the cones. Not a hard job, but a bit tedious.

The NuVinci Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT) hubs are very popular with bikeshare bikes, and are supposed to be very durable. It might be worth considering, although it would be a major upgrade and not cheap.

Before deciding on a new wheel, I spoke to a mechanic at the bike store about a supply of freehubs. He said they would sell me whatever, but he recommended against just fixing it endlessly. He said that diagnosing the problem in his shop would mean a thorough inspection and then trying the wheel in another bike before trying a shop wheel in my frame. He figured it was likely a problem with the wheel, but that was just based on my description and him seeing the chain bunch up in his shop.
OldBike876 is offline  
Old 05-18-23, 08:35 AM
  #35  
Tusk
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 111

Bikes: 1986 Scwinn Prelude 20?? Motobecane Ti 'Le Champion"

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 60 Post(s)
Liked 64 Times in 40 Posts
For what it is worth, I have Shimano 6800 hubs on my go to bike. At 250#, I have never had an issue.

You may want to start looking at Internal Geared Hubs for your next build. Shimano makes one that is very cost friendly.
Tusk is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.