Nishiki American Eagle Semi-Pro: Educate me!
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Nishiki American Eagle Semi-Pro: Educate me!
Yesterday I ran across this Nishiki/American Eagle Semi-Pro in an older gent's garage. I'm guessing it's from 1972. Seems like he rode it a few times back in the early 70s and just put it away. I bought it off him for $100, assuming if nothing else I could sell a couple of the parts to cover the cost (e.g., the crankset & dust caps) and be able to pilfer a few of the parts I want for a different build (the shifters, pedals, hubs, freewheel, etc.). But I'd love to know more about it while I decide whether or not to maybe change a couple of specific parts (crank & wheelset, for example) and add it to the stable as, say, an Eroica bike. Perhaps the frame is a bit lighter and springy-er than I suspect and it'd really shine with some tasteful updates.
E.g., I've read on here that the main triangle is probably Ishiwata DB tubing--does anyone know if the tubing used on these is what later became 024 tubing or something like that? What of the stays & fork? I'm guessing the fork is probably Hi-Ten, but not sure. The frame looks nice from a distance, but up close is a bit sloppy around the lugs--common of the American Eagle productions? If any of you have one, I'd love your impressions on the ride quality, especially with a different wheelset (my impression is that the hubs are worth hanging on to, but the rims are probably a bit of a dead spot and the bike would benefit from a rim update).
Anyway, it's sitting in a corner right now while I work on a different project, but I'd love to hear from your collective wisdom on this particular bike! All pics are as-found condition.
E.g., I've read on here that the main triangle is probably Ishiwata DB tubing--does anyone know if the tubing used on these is what later became 024 tubing or something like that? What of the stays & fork? I'm guessing the fork is probably Hi-Ten, but not sure. The frame looks nice from a distance, but up close is a bit sloppy around the lugs--common of the American Eagle productions? If any of you have one, I'd love your impressions on the ride quality, especially with a different wheelset (my impression is that the hubs are worth hanging on to, but the rims are probably a bit of a dead spot and the bike would benefit from a rim update).
Anyway, it's sitting in a corner right now while I work on a different project, but I'd love to hear from your collective wisdom on this particular bike! All pics are as-found condition.
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You got a nice deal at $100. The parts are worth that much. Plus this is a very clean frame. Does it fit you?
Those are 27 inch wheels right? This bike looks to have clearance for pretty fat tires which makes it very versatile.
My first ten speed was a grey Nishiki but it was nowhere near as nice as this. If something like this bike popped up locally, I'd buy it.
Those are 27 inch wheels right? This bike looks to have clearance for pretty fat tires which makes it very versatile.
My first ten speed was a grey Nishiki but it was nowhere near as nice as this. If something like this bike popped up locally, I'd buy it.
Last edited by bikemig; 05-15-20 at 12:38 PM.
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I agree it was hard to pass up for $100, given how it was built up. The frame is super-clean with only a little scuff on the fork--and yes, it does fit! The tires are 27" and at least in the front there is room for a 700 x 40c knobby tire, maybe even 42c if I am willing to deflate every time I take the wheel on/off but I haven't tested the rear triangle yet to see what it can handle. A cursory look makes me think it can at least handle 38c, hence my interest in a new wheelset--I bet the ride would be greatly improved with the right rim/tire combo.
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Thank you for posting.
Congrtulations on the very nice find.
It is unusual to find them so all original and in such good condition.
The original saddle was a Fujita YFC quilted - inspired by the Cinelli NITOR.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/1169211-fujita-seamless-saddle.html
Tips -
be aware that steerer and stem are probably the .833 size
the red anodised alloy crank dust covers are a sought after collector item and can be sold for good money if so disposed
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there is a bit of history on this marque and the cycles which wear it here -
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nishiki_(bicycle_company)
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Thank you for posting.
Congrtulations on the very nice find.
It is unusual to find them so all original and in such good condition.
The original saddle was a Fujita YFC quilted - inspired by the Cinelli NITOR.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/1169211-fujita-seamless-saddle.html
Tips -
be aware that steerer and stem are probably the .833 size
the red anodised alloy crank dust covers are a sought after collector item and can be sold for good money if so disposed
---
there is a bit of history on this marque and the cycles which wear it here -
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nishiki_(bicycle_company)
-----
Last edited by juvela; 05-15-20 at 12:50 PM. Reason: addition
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I agree it was hard to pass up for $100, given how it was built up. The frame is super-clean with only a little scuff on the fork--and yes, it does fit! The tires are 27" and at least in the front there is room for a 700 x 40c knobby tire, maybe even 42c if I am willing to deflate every time I take the wheel on/off but I haven't tested the rear triangle yet to see what it can handle. A cursory look makes me think it can at least handle 38c, hence my interest in a new wheelset--I bet the ride would be greatly improved with the right rim/tire combo.
Here is the thread:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...tage-bike.html
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I've had 3 of these over the years. Nice riders, definately worth more in parts than complete. If I remember right, they take a 21.1mm stem quil.
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Nice, the Semi-Pro was my second “10-speed” BITD (After my Schwinn Varsity). I got one in late 1971 when I was 13, talked my parents into paying 1/2 for my Christmas present. I think they were about $220 new at that time. Unfortunately I gave it away probably 30 years ago. The stem doesn’t look like what I remember. I can’t tell about the bars, I think the originals were a “randonneur” style. Enjoy.
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wrt possible gravel grinding build -
the chainset is 144BCD so one is limited to a smallest c/w of 41T
you might wish to have a smaller inner for gravel grinding - especially if you envision staying with a two-plateau drive train
since the chainset is in like new condition and has the desirable dust covers you could easily sell it for a good price
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wrt possible gravel grinding build -
the chainset is 144BCD so one is limited to a smallest c/w of 41T
you might wish to have a smaller inner for gravel grinding - especially if you envision staying with a two-plateau drive train
since the chainset is in like new condition and has the desirable dust covers you could easily sell it for a good price
-----
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This model seems to be the exact same bike as the Nishiki Competition, which I owned.
This is mostly a good bike, the parts are cool and the frame/finish is attractive.
There is one issue, having to do with the wheelset. The 1970's stainless steel spokes as fitted to these models (and to Centurions btw) are extremely short-lived (prone to start snapping with regularity after ~1000 miles or so). It's a shame because the hubs and rims are what I would consider good parts.
The plain driveside dropout and the .833 steerer lead me to believe that the tubing specification is modest, but a weigh-in might answer questions regarding it's quality.
I have a 1973 American Eagle Kokusai model (which is a "Pre-badged" Nishiki International) that, like yours, has the Nishiki head badge.
So I'm guessing that yours is perhaps from the same transitional year. Mine is the same silver color, though lacks the rear frame's chrome plating since it is a one tier lower model than yours.
Check the back side of the front derailer cage or rear derailer body link, and look for the date code appearing as two capital letters.
Suntour began the 1st digit's alphabet with letter A in 1984, so counting backward from the letter Z as 1983 will get you the derailer's manufacturing date (the bike's model year will typically come some months later). Letter P would be 1973.
The second digit is the month (letter A is January, etc.).
This is mostly a good bike, the parts are cool and the frame/finish is attractive.
There is one issue, having to do with the wheelset. The 1970's stainless steel spokes as fitted to these models (and to Centurions btw) are extremely short-lived (prone to start snapping with regularity after ~1000 miles or so). It's a shame because the hubs and rims are what I would consider good parts.
The plain driveside dropout and the .833 steerer lead me to believe that the tubing specification is modest, but a weigh-in might answer questions regarding it's quality.
I have a 1973 American Eagle Kokusai model (which is a "Pre-badged" Nishiki International) that, like yours, has the Nishiki head badge.
So I'm guessing that yours is perhaps from the same transitional year. Mine is the same silver color, though lacks the rear frame's chrome plating since it is a one tier lower model than yours.
Check the back side of the front derailer cage or rear derailer body link, and look for the date code appearing as two capital letters.
Suntour began the 1st digit's alphabet with letter A in 1984, so counting backward from the letter Z as 1983 will get you the derailer's manufacturing date (the bike's model year will typically come some months later). Letter P would be 1973.
The second digit is the month (letter A is January, etc.).