For the love of English 3 speeds...
01-11-20, 03:06 AM
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Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
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01-12-20, 06:14 AM
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The BSA Star Rider I posted here last summer came with a '62 AW hub. Here is a picture of it.
01-12-20, 08:31 AM
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There is a tool that was built specifically to straighten bent steel crankarms. I have one that was made pre-war by Elgin. They are straightened fairly easily with that tool while on the bike.
For the cotter pin I would apply some Kroil (Penetrating-Lubricating Oils) to the pin and give it a day or so. Then I would try it again, only repositioning the press as best I could to apply the force so as to push the bend back in the other direction; IOW a little off to one side.
For the cotter pin I would apply some Kroil (Penetrating-Lubricating Oils) to the pin and give it a day or so. Then I would try it again, only repositioning the press as best I could to apply the force so as to push the bend back in the other direction; IOW a little off to one side.
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01-12-20, 08:35 AM
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Here's an amazon review I wrote for some inner tubes I purchased...
https://www.amazon.ca/review/R3HZ9G8..._rv_eml_rv0_rv
https://www.amazon.ca/review/R3HZ9G8..._rv_eml_rv0_rv
01-12-20, 10:19 AM
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Bikes: 1965 Dilecta Le Blanc, 1956 Royal Nord, 1972 Raleigh Sports, 1972 CCM Turismo,1976 SuperCycle Excalibur, 2014 Salsa Vaya, 2017 Felt DD70, 2019 Giant Lafree and others
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Brampton Cog Change
Since completing round one with refurbishing the circa 1956 Royal Nord President and riding it a little, I think it is time to rethink the gearing. For the ups and downs of our little town a lower ratio would be appreciated. With the original 700 x 38C alloy wheels the whole range is higher than I need for this type of bike. The beautiful original chain ring is 46 tooth and the cog is an 18 tooth. I have changed SA cogs many times in the past but they were all the type that slip on and have the spring wire retainer. This one is threaded on and did not respond to my attempts to remove it. Afraid of harming this very special old bike and not sur of what I was doing I left it be. The Brampton hubs were supposedly made under licence to Sturmey Archer but appear different. Anyone had any experience doing this? Were older SA hubs threaded?
Comparison with SA Trigger
Comparison with SA Trigger
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We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
01-12-20, 10:20 AM
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I don't have any pics of an AMF Hercules that I fixed up for my brother, but I'm fairly sure the S-A AW hub was dated 62 13!
01-12-20, 12:59 PM
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Since completing round one with refurbishing the circa 1956 Royal Nord President and riding it a little, I think it is time to rethink the gearing. For the ups and downs of our little town a lower ratio would be appreciated. With the original 700 x 38C alloy wheels the whole range is higher than I need for this type of bike. The beautiful original chain ring is 46 tooth and the cog is an 18 tooth. I have changed SA cogs many times in the past but they were all the type that slip on and have the spring wire retainer. This one is threaded on and did not respond to my attempts to remove it. Afraid of harming this very special old bike and not sur of what I was doing I left it be. The Brampton hubs were supposedly made under licence to Sturmey Archer but appear different. Anyone had any experience doing this? Were older SA hubs threaded?
Comparison with SA Trigger
Comparison with SA Trigger
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01-12-20, 01:29 PM
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01-12-20, 02:54 PM
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01-12-20, 03:34 PM
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My 1951 Rudge had the threaded driver. I believe Sturmey archer started using the 3 splined driver in 52 or 53, but the Brampton version continued to use the threaded type. I swapped in a later 3 spline driver so I could adjust the overall gearing of my Rudge. I think...but don't know a SA splined driver might also work in the Brampton since it's a licensed copy. I, so far, haven't taken the cog off the old driver so the outer dust cover is still being held captive, but I had a spare to use. Here's pics of the original and my replacement.
I'd been unable to remove the threaded cog while in place on the wheel, but it was easier to remove once it was out of the hub. I clamped a tool handle that fit into the slots of the driver into my vice, sat the driver on the tool handle, and then used a chain whip to remove the cog.
Last edited by arty dave; 01-12-20 at 03:39 PM.
01-12-20, 05:42 PM
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I did the same on an early 50's hub.
I'd been unable to remove the threaded cog while in place on the wheel, but it was easier to remove once it was out of the hub. I clamped a tool handle that fit into the slots of the driver into my vice, sat the driver on the tool handle, and then used a chain whip to remove the cog.
I'd been unable to remove the threaded cog while in place on the wheel, but it was easier to remove once it was out of the hub. I clamped a tool handle that fit into the slots of the driver into my vice, sat the driver on the tool handle, and then used a chain whip to remove the cog.
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01-12-20, 06:01 PM
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All these years of being an IG hub guy has left me without a chain whip tool. I put the unit in my parts stash and if I ever really need the dust cover I suppose I could try driving the cog off with a punch. One thing's for sure. I won't ever be using an 18T cog on that bike. With the heavy pre-high tensile frame, Brooks saddle,tool bag, pump, steel rims, Dyno hub and all the original sheet metal , it's too heavy for 48x18 gearing. At least for me it is.
01-13-20, 05:53 AM
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That should work. I suppose it would be good to get it apart without breaking anything. I always save parts, but who would ever want a threaded driver and 18T cog? You never know. I had that NOS straight leg driver and dust cover in my parts bin for years and ended up needing them. Never thought I would.
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01-13-20, 06:24 AM
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I went to my shop and counted 8 bikes or wheels with threaded drivers. I know that free wheels come with English, French, or Italian threads. Are threaded cogs all interchangeable?
01-13-20, 07:30 AM
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English & Italian Freewheels are interchangeable but French are not compatible with English or Italian.
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01-13-20, 09:05 AM
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-Carl
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01-13-20, 09:08 PM
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It was a turbulent time, the beginning of the Tube Investments takeovers triggered a lot of changes. Dunlop, Moulton, Sturmey, and European racing created a fast changing marketplace.
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01-13-20, 11:16 PM
elcraft
Threaded drivers on AW ( and it's clones) is right hand threaded, matching English Freewheel and Bottom Bracket threading.
01-14-20, 08:55 AM
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I clamped a tool handle that fit into the slots of the driver into my vice, sat the driver on the tool handle, and then used a chain whip to remove the cog.
01-14-20, 12:26 PM
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I don't remove the nut on the cotter pin until the pin is moving, just crack the nut to start with and rotate a small amount applying the press until the nut is down to the crank then repeat. Once the pin is completely loose remove the nut and press the cotter pin out. This way the pin is supported by the nut and does not bend. Has worked every time for me.
01-15-20, 06:21 AM
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Nice little bike. Between CL and antique shops a few like this have been available here lately.
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...056302508.html
bicycle frame material: steel
bicycle type: cruiser
frame size: Medium
wheel size: 26 in
Vintage all original but the tires are new
Cool vintage cruiser
3 speed everything works as It should
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...056302508.html
Women’s vintage 3 speed - $100 (Henrico)
bicycle frame material: steel
bicycle type: cruiser
frame size: Medium
wheel size: 26 in
Vintage all original but the tires are new
Cool vintage cruiser
3 speed everything works as It should
01-15-20, 10:24 AM
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Sunbeam W3 Wayfarer No S48571 1949/50
I have now rebuilt this Sunbeam Wayfarer about which I posted earlier, Rather than post whole write up here it can be seen at: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-part-2-a.html
Completed Bike
Cockpit view.
Completed Bike
Cockpit view.
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01-15-20, 03:35 PM
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Very nice rebuild, looks like it will be a satisfying ride. Favourite parts for me are the awesome flat north road bars, those cool centre-pull brakes - levers are nice too, and the saddle - I have one that is very similar (with 2 springs and not Terry's, can't remember the brand) that is very comfortable. It just needs a spiffy bell to complete
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01-16-20, 06:41 PM
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1957 Hopper
Further to my earlier comments if it was 1957 date bike then it possibly could have been built for 27" (630) rims rather than the EA1 26" rims.
Probably be a good idea to check against another road bike frame bike frame to check fork lengths, checking my road bikes with 27" they measure 14.5" from hub centre to base of crown whereas my 26" bikes measure 14" so this may give you a clue to which wheel was originally fitted. Hope this helps
Probably be a good idea to check against another road bike frame bike frame to check fork lengths, checking my road bikes with 27" they measure 14.5" from hub centre to base of crown whereas my 26" bikes measure 14" so this may give you a clue to which wheel was originally fitted. Hope this helps
I am unsure if the original bike had ea1 or ea3 wheels.
01-17-20, 04:18 AM
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I think 590 CR-18s are the best choice. The Sun Ringle website doesn't list 590s, so perhaps they are out of production. Harris Cyclery still has them for sale on their site, but it might be a good idea to pick up a couple 32H front rims while you can.
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