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#3976
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This is probably a simple question for some of you veteran track guys. I'm a roadie and crit racer but love riding fixed gears. Just bought a Fuji Track Pro (2009) brand new for a song to start hitting the track in Frisco. First thing is to cut the seat post. I'm wondering how you guys measure the seat height on a track bike? Not really any cutting going on a carbon road bike The cranks are 170mm on the Fuji vs 172.5mm on my road and cross bikes. Should I measure from the center of the bottom bracket or from the pedal spindle etc...? Measure twice cut once!
#3977
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Fixed integrated seat mast are one of the problems with that frame (don't shoot the messenger). You can't hover the seat mast topper over the mast if you cut the mast too short. It seems like you can, but the first few bumps will have it sliding down on you.
But there is hope.
When you cut the mast, cut it in slices of several different thicknesses (5mm, 1cm, 2cm) that way, you can stack them inside of the topper to raise it back up the way you would use headset spacers underneath a stem. One (obvious) key is to make sure to use the cutting guide and cut the slices so that they are at right-angles to each other so they fit together well.
What sucks about seaposts like this is that it makes it hard to micro-adjust. You can't just hop off the bike and use a 3mm allen wrench and raise or lower the saddle a smidgen.
Measuring the saddle height should be the same as your road and cx bikes.
But there is hope.
When you cut the mast, cut it in slices of several different thicknesses (5mm, 1cm, 2cm) that way, you can stack them inside of the topper to raise it back up the way you would use headset spacers underneath a stem. One (obvious) key is to make sure to use the cutting guide and cut the slices so that they are at right-angles to each other so they fit together well.
What sucks about seaposts like this is that it makes it hard to micro-adjust. You can't just hop off the bike and use a 3mm allen wrench and raise or lower the saddle a smidgen.
Measuring the saddle height should be the same as your road and cx bikes.
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Don't they provide spacers? That's crazy. My Ridley Noah road bike has an integrated seat mast, but it comes with a bunch of metal spacers that you can use to raise it back up if you need to (to a point, obviously there's a limit). Some of them are ridiculously thin, so you can get it exactly right.
#3979
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Don't they provide spacers? That's crazy. My Ridley Noah road bike has an integrated seat mast, but it comes with a bunch of metal spacers that you can use to raise it back up if you need to (to a point, obviously there's a limit). Some of them are ridiculously thin, so you can get it exactly right.
Have you taken delivery of the frame? Can you cancel the order?
#3980
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Fixed integrated seat mast are one of the problems with that frame (don't shoot the messenger). You can't hover the seat mast topper over the mast if you cut the mast too short. It seems like you can, but the first few bumps will have it sliding down on you.
But there is hope.
When you cut the mast, cut it in slices of several different thicknesses (5mm, 1cm, 2cm) that way, you can stack them inside of the topper to raise it back up the way you would use headset spacers underneath a stem. One (obvious) key is to make sure to use the cutting guide and cut the slices so that they are at right-angles to each other so they fit together well.
What sucks about seaposts like this is that it makes it hard to micro-adjust. You can't just hop off the bike and use a 3mm allen wrench and raise or lower the saddle a smidgen.
Measuring the saddle height should be the same as your road and cx bikes.
But there is hope.
When you cut the mast, cut it in slices of several different thicknesses (5mm, 1cm, 2cm) that way, you can stack them inside of the topper to raise it back up the way you would use headset spacers underneath a stem. One (obvious) key is to make sure to use the cutting guide and cut the slices so that they are at right-angles to each other so they fit together well.
What sucks about seaposts like this is that it makes it hard to micro-adjust. You can't just hop off the bike and use a 3mm allen wrench and raise or lower the saddle a smidgen.
Measuring the saddle height should be the same as your road and cx bikes.
I ride a Fuji Elite, which had the mast the year I bought it. (newer versions have an adjustable seat post) Carleton's advice on measuring is spot on, as is his description of how to make shims when you are cutting the mast down. I have a whole selection of shims, which came in handy when I changed my cleat system and had to adjust for stack height.
And no, it did not come with pre-made shims, like some other bikes. While I love the way the bike rides, once you cut the mast you are kind of stuck with it as you can only sell it to someone who fits within the general range you ride it, as you can always shorten it, but you can shim it more than about 1/2 inch or the seat clamp won't have enough mast to hold onto. I am only 5'5", so unless I can sell or give it to a junior (if and when I buy another), it will have to become a wall ornament.
#3981
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I bought the bike locally from an old bike shop that sells very few new bikes. Mostly vintage stuff along with a few fixies. Apparently, this bike was sitting in a box since 2009 and the bike shop owner found it in the back somewhere I got the whole bike for less than a used frame so thought what the heck. I'll ride it for a while and then buy a nicer track frame if I really get into it.
I tossed the tires but it seems like it has nice components like the FSA carbon crank, San Marco saddle and Deda bars. Not sure about these Novatec wheels. I guess they'll work for training.
I'm new to the track scene so just want something that I don't have to adjust every time I go to the track. I like the idea of the spacers using slices of the seat post. I guess those would fit inside the "upper" seat post as it slides over the lower one that is cut?
I will measure from the BB since that's what I'm used to on my other bikes. I might shoot a little high (shorter crank arms) and then I can always take off another slice if needed. Thanks for the great info guys!
I tossed the tires but it seems like it has nice components like the FSA carbon crank, San Marco saddle and Deda bars. Not sure about these Novatec wheels. I guess they'll work for training.
I'm new to the track scene so just want something that I don't have to adjust every time I go to the track. I like the idea of the spacers using slices of the seat post. I guess those would fit inside the "upper" seat post as it slides over the lower one that is cut?
I will measure from the BB since that's what I'm used to on my other bikes. I might shoot a little high (shorter crank arms) and then I can always take off another slice if needed. Thanks for the great info guys!
#3982
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The FSA carbon cranks were never popular. I can't recall the reasons why, but there were reasons. The Deda pista bars are probably 40 or 42cm which are wider than what's popular these days (33-37cm).
I'm not trying to rain on your parade (which is probably what I'm doing).
Maybe build it, configure it, fit it, and ride the hell out of it, but don't invest anything else into it.
#3983
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Man, I hate rainy parades! Seriously, I bought this bike to avoid renting bikes at the track if that tells you how new I am I've got so much money and time invested in road bikes that the simplicity of a fixed gear is appealing to me. I could even stick a brake on it and ride around town; albeit a bumpy ride.
I think I'll take your advice. I'm going to cut the seat post and ride the hell out of it without worry of crashing or breaking an expensive part! One thing i've learned about cycling is you can buy all the coolest stuff but there's no substitute for laying down the watts. A fast rider on a crappy bike is still fast. A weak rider is still slow on a fancy bike.
Thanks carleton for the insight and if I need my parade rained on I'll know who to talk to
I think I'll take your advice. I'm going to cut the seat post and ride the hell out of it without worry of crashing or breaking an expensive part! One thing i've learned about cycling is you can buy all the coolest stuff but there's no substitute for laying down the watts. A fast rider on a crappy bike is still fast. A weak rider is still slow on a fancy bike.
Thanks carleton for the insight and if I need my parade rained on I'll know who to talk to
#3984
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Have you ever seen Masters guys show up to the velodrome for:
- Training day
- Race day
- States/Regionals
- Nationals
The amount of gear that we bring along rises exponentially for each level of event.
#3985
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Originally Posted by carleton
The amount of gear that we bring along rises exponentially for each level of event.
#3986
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My friend has a fsa carbon track crankset and he hated it.
I think it was because the BB was loosens over time, because it didn't came with lockring to hold the BB
I think this is one of the reason fsa carbon crankset is not popular
I think it was because the BB was loosens over time, because it didn't came with lockring to hold the BB
I think this is one of the reason fsa carbon crankset is not popular
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is the specialized langster pro discontinued? it's not on their website anymore. just the regular langster complete which is nice. my lbs is a specialized dealer and i was hoping to get a frameset from them. also, is there a chance dealers can get older models. say last year's frameset even though it's not listed anymore?
#3988
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#3989
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is the specialized langster pro discontinued? it's not on their website anymore. just the regular langster complete which is nice. my lbs is a specialized dealer and i was hoping to get a frameset from them. also, is there a chance dealers can get older models. say last year's frameset even though it's not listed anymore?
#3991
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The new design is all one piece of carbon fiber and based on what I read it is a solid crankset. I run FSA on my cross bike also and have never had any problems.
#3992
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I did some digging just to make sure there wasn't a safety issue and from what I could find there was a design flaw in the original FSA carbon cranks. The crank arm was carbon and the spider was alloy. This junction could loosen over time especially when used on the street for "skidding". Since there are multiple options for BB I don't see how that could be related to the crankset itself.
The new design is all one piece of carbon fiber and based on what I read it is a solid crankset. I run FSA on my cross bike also and have never had any problems.
The new design is all one piece of carbon fiber and based on what I read it is a solid crankset. I run FSA on my cross bike also and have never had any problems.
#3993
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Thanks Carleton! I've actually been looking through that thread. Some sweet looking rides in there. Even some old school steel (wink wink)......
I race with a few guys that ride steel as training bikes on the road. There's something about those old style frames that attracts a lot of attention. I guess you just don't see them much any more.
I race with a few guys that ride steel as training bikes on the road. There's something about those old style frames that attracts a lot of attention. I guess you just don't see them much any more.
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Once I'm off the naughty list I can post a pic of the Fuji
I cut the seat mast and swapped out the saddle with a Fizik and love the ride. Took it for a spin through the neighborhood tonight. I think i might strip the frame down and shoot some Plastidip on it. Maybe a matte black or even all white! I've seen a couple of Track Pro's in all black and they look pretty cool. Not sure if it's a full paint job or just Plastidip.
I cut the seat mast and swapped out the saddle with a Fizik and love the ride. Took it for a spin through the neighborhood tonight. I think i might strip the frame down and shoot some Plastidip on it. Maybe a matte black or even all white! I've seen a couple of Track Pro's in all black and they look pretty cool. Not sure if it's a full paint job or just Plastidip.
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Fluid Trainer is "Stiff"
I have a Performance Ascent fluid-trainer for my 2008 Sirrus (I'm new so I can't post a URL so you'll have to look it up...)
The problem I'm having is it is "Stiff" - its the only word I can think of. The roller doesn't roll freely, so when the wheel is against it and I'm pedaling, it only rolls with the revolution of the crank - then it slows to a stop - imagine pushing a treadmill with the strength of your legs (obviously this is different, but....similar). So my question is - am I doing something wrong? I know that I have it set up correctly, but I wonder if the trainer is malfunctioning, needs lubrication (if so...how?) etc.
Please help!!
N
The problem I'm having is it is "Stiff" - its the only word I can think of. The roller doesn't roll freely, so when the wheel is against it and I'm pedaling, it only rolls with the revolution of the crank - then it slows to a stop - imagine pushing a treadmill with the strength of your legs (obviously this is different, but....similar). So my question is - am I doing something wrong? I know that I have it set up correctly, but I wonder if the trainer is malfunctioning, needs lubrication (if so...how?) etc.
Please help!!
N
#3997
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The roller on a trainer shouldn't roll freely. It's connected to the resistance unit (fluid in you case) at all times. Trainers don't allow for much coasting at all.
Have you ridden another trainer before? Or do you have someone with experience who could try yours? It sounds about right to me, but it's possible there is something wrong. Hard to say without trying it.
Have you ridden another trainer before? Or do you have someone with experience who could try yours? It sounds about right to me, but it's possible there is something wrong. Hard to say without trying it.
#3998
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Once I'm off the naughty list I can post a pic of the Fuji
I cut the seat mast and swapped out the saddle with a Fizik and love the ride. Took it for a spin through the neighborhood tonight. I think i might strip the frame down and shoot some Plastidip on it. Maybe a matte black or even all white! I've seen a couple of Track Pro's in all black and they look pretty cool. Not sure if it's a full paint job or just Plastidip.
I cut the seat mast and swapped out the saddle with a Fizik and love the ride. Took it for a spin through the neighborhood tonight. I think i might strip the frame down and shoot some Plastidip on it. Maybe a matte black or even all white! I've seen a couple of Track Pro's in all black and they look pretty cool. Not sure if it's a full paint job or just Plastidip.
To be honest, I think you will be better off with a basic steel frame with an appropriate geometry than spending time, energy, and money on this one.
The materials don't matter as much as one might think. Changing frame materials solves problems, e.g.: You are 225lbs and really strong and you flex a normal steel frame, so switching (not upgrading) to aluminum or carbon will provide a flex-free platform.
But, if you aren't flexing the steel, then there are no net gains...just net losses in your wallet
That's a simple example, but that's the gist of my point.
#3999
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No worries. The Plastidip would be just for fun and the cost of a couple of cans wouldn't break the bank.
I'm pretty happy with the bike as it sits and don't plan on doing much to it. However, tweaking and changing things as we get stronger or faster is what we do, right? If i'm not changing things on my road bikes then I don't feel like I'm getting better.
Ironically, I am 230lbs. and have a power lifting background. My challenge is to not break stuff on my bikes. I've had steel and scandium frames and they get pretty mushy. Based on my initial rides on this alloy frame (sounds cooler than aluminum) I'm pretty happy with the power transfer.
Maybe some day I could have a custom steel frame made that can handle the load
I'm pretty happy with the bike as it sits and don't plan on doing much to it. However, tweaking and changing things as we get stronger or faster is what we do, right? If i'm not changing things on my road bikes then I don't feel like I'm getting better.
Ironically, I am 230lbs. and have a power lifting background. My challenge is to not break stuff on my bikes. I've had steel and scandium frames and they get pretty mushy. Based on my initial rides on this alloy frame (sounds cooler than aluminum) I'm pretty happy with the power transfer.
Maybe some day I could have a custom steel frame made that can handle the load
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I never asked for advice on the bike I bought or whether I should spend time or money on modifying the components. You brought up the resale value of the components not me. I was just having a friendly conversation about track bikes. I'm not sure what advice I'm not listening to? This thing took a turn when someone had concern about the durability of the carbon crankset that came on the Track Pro. The version that I have does not have an issue so I'm good with that.
I certainly value your opinion and hope I can glean from your experience and expertise in the future. Please let me know if you have a different view. I don't want to be known as one of those guys