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Ultegra Vs Dura-Ace

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Ultegra Vs Dura-Ace

Old 11-29-21, 03:10 PM
  #26  
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If you want D/A, get it. Then you'll never second-guess the decision.

If you need justification, then okay, here it is: D/A is better than Ultegra.
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Old 11-29-21, 03:10 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Rdmonster69 View Post
Its just something I have always wanted. I am not hung up on the wow factor for other people. Just my own Wow factor. Lately I have been spending money on Bikes and not motorcycles. For what I spent on my SLR6 I could have almost bought a Ducati 1098S. I owned a Ducati 1098 ..... I have always regretted trading it for a different Ducati. If it has 2 wheels and I can throw stupid amounts of money at it I'm in. A 20 year old frame that I want to put pro level components on def fits the bill. FWIW the Ultegra on the SLR is petty fantastic. But darn it. I wants what I want.
Then you need to get Dura Ace or you'll always wonder/regret.
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Old 11-29-21, 03:16 PM
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The cost of Dura Ace isn't really justifiable in terms of tangible performance benefits. Even for people who are paid to race bikes up mountains, the few hundred grams difference is well into marginal gains territory. That said, it's your dream build and you've already established that the cost isn't an issue. So... go for it.

If you want context, somewhere out there right now someone is debating if the $76k Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 392 is "worth it" over the standard $45k Rubicon. For 99% of the population, these two vehicles are indistinguishable. One is slightly faster than the other.
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Old 11-29-21, 03:17 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Rdmonster69 View Post
Its just something I have always wanted.... But darn it. I wants what I want.
End of story! Nobody here is going to discourage you from getting what you want.
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Old 11-29-21, 03:21 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by shelbyfv View Post
End of story! Nobody here is going to discourage you from getting what you want.
Lordy, is that the truth. Every time I've asked people here to talk me out of buying something, they do the opposite. Hence, 9 bikes.
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Old 11-29-21, 03:33 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by shelbyfv View Post
End of story! Nobody here is going to discourage you from getting what you want.

Give it time. somebody will try. "One gear is plenty", or try to talk him into a 9 gear triple, or the like.
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Old 11-29-21, 03:49 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by GhostRider62 View Post

DA is obviously much lighter
DA 9100 = 2007g
Ultegra R8000 = 2303g

It's been a while since I've looked at a weight weenie dollars per gram chart. Is $1000 to shave an additional 300 grams good or bad? I guess it's probably not too crazy when you think about wheel upgrades, or think about the cost difference between regular and S-Works frames, etc. If the OP's final build is 16.5lbs instead of 17lbs, does that matter to anyone other than the scale? It's still going to be a really light, fast and awesome ride either way.

I'd argue that the intangible "cool factor" and bling of Dura Ace is going to be worth more than 300 grams difference, but I suppose that depends on the OP's ultimate goal.

Mostly if I were the OP I wouldn't worry about justify the cost.
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Old 11-29-21, 05:26 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Rdmonster69 View Post
I guarantee with no reservation that the only time I will know the difference is when I look at the bike. I just want it.

Yea I have Ultegra mechanical on my Emonda but when I was looking for a new bike in 2020, I wanted electronic shifting, did not care , so I got it, but I went with Ultegra, as DA was just in the ridiculous price point for Di2.
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Old 11-29-21, 05:33 PM
  #34  
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Go for the DA and don't look back your gonna love it
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Old 11-29-21, 06:39 PM
  #35  
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I love the replies! Thanks for indulging me. My Chris King BB just came in and I'm ooing and ahhing over that right now. Gonna source tires, stem , handlebar and maybe a seat post in the next 6 weeks or so. Then pull the trigger on the groupset. I found a place that has em in stock so hopefully they will still be around. Maybe by March or April there will be a killer build thread. I'm taking pics along the way : )
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Old 11-29-21, 07:34 PM
  #36  
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I wouldn't wait on the group if you can find one. Remember it's now last generation, not current. I won't pretend to know how Shimano operates but it wouldn't be a surprise if they skewed production toward OEM 12 speed. They'll likely look after their big customers first, may be a gap in production of "legacy" parts. Just a thought. As I said, no insider knowledge here.
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Old 11-30-21, 04:31 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by msu2001la View Post
DA 9100 = 2007g
Ultegra R8000 = 2303g

It's been a while since I've looked at a weight weenie dollars per gram chart. Is $1000 to shave an additional 300 grams good or bad? I guess it's probably not too crazy when you think about wheel upgrades, or think about the cost difference between regular and S-Works frames, etc. If the OP's final build is 16.5lbs instead of 17lbs, does that matter to anyone other than the scale? It's still going to be a really light, fast and awesome ride either way.

I'd argue that the intangible "cool factor" and bling of Dura Ace is going to be worth more than 300 grams difference, but I suppose that depends on the OP's ultimate goal.

Mostly if I were the OP I wouldn't worry about justify the cost.
300 grams is 0.75 pounds. Is 3 bucks a gram worth it? Dunno. Personal decision. Some put the limit at a buck a gram. Some don't care.

I need a new 24 mm axle crank. DA vs Ultegra is 100 grams and $250 differential or thereabouts. I can't decide, it is a bike that I won't ride too much. I just can't stand the thought of looking down and seeing an Ultegra crank of a bike with all other components top of the line. Weight is a small factor, less than the aesthetics for me. If OP has the coin, get DA
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Old 11-30-21, 05:05 AM
  #38  
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I had been lusting about a no expense spared road bike, probably for 30 years.
Each time a new leading edge component set came out, I would update my build.
10 years ago, I did it - built a custom steel frame road bike.
Selected the components I wanted, didn't pay much attention to the bottom line.
Now have an awesome bike, it is an extension of my body.
Wish I had done this years before.
Take away from this project, a bike is the sum of its parts-
don't splurg on drive train, then scrimp on wheels.
If going for gold, make sure all the other components are also top of the line.
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Old 11-30-21, 10:13 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by CAT7RDR View Post
Cannot speak for Dura-Ace but I have zero complaints for Ultegra 6800 or the older 6600.
Both work without a hitch.

Just a query. Would the money be better spent on an upgraded wheelset if you are looking for bang-for-the-buck?

yes
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Old 11-30-21, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Iride01 View Post
I ran that around in my head initially before I ask why not Di2, but I couldn't come up with anything as to why not. So without me having to go back figure it out for myself, can you enlighten me?
Di2 is a wired system. You need to figure out a clean way to route them, - but there are seat tube batteries. Its very do-able, but needs some thought for a clean appearance vs modern stuff that is already drilled for internal wiring.

SRAM AXS however, is not a wired system
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Old 11-30-21, 10:39 AM
  #41  
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Neither.



There are some inherent flaws in the Shimano glued-together Hollowtech cranks, that cause them to separate in certain conditions.
Why not just go for the period-correct 7700 era Dura Ace if you must have Dura Ace?
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Old 11-30-21, 10:51 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by DMC707 View Post
Di2 is a wired system. You need to figure out a clean way to route them, - but there are seat tube batteries. Its very do-able, but needs some thought for a clean appearance vs modern stuff that is already drilled for internal wiring.

SRAM AXS however, is not a wired system
Yes that is somewhat true. And for most "casual" DIYer's I can see where that would nix it for them. However "dedicated and determined" DIYer's even way back in the vintage days were putting cables for shifters and brakes inside frames that didn't come stock with internal routing.

Di2 wires come in all lengths, so with the correct mounting externally, it can look just as good as the external cable housings that are already on it. Di2 front and rear DR's and any of the components can even share the same wire run with y's or splits at appropriate places as they rely on signaling and not just on/off voltage.

Though off the top of my head, the only issue will be if Di2 ever had a cable pulled STI for the bakes. I thought it did, but without looking it up, I can't be certain.
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Old 11-30-21, 11:00 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by icemilkcoffee View Post
Neither.



There are some inherent flaws in the Shimano glued-together Hollowtech cranks, that cause them to separate in certain conditions.
Why not just go for the period-correct 7700 era Dura Ace if you must have Dura Ace?
Scare tactics with no basis to the reality of how often that has happened compared to any other crank failure?

What about these solid crank arm failures?


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Old 11-30-21, 11:09 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Rdmonster69 View Post
I I guess I am wondering if the Dura Ace is worth it. I have no illusions about my need for pro level gear. I am old and slow AF.
A Dura Ace groupset will make you look much faster at the rest stops.
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Old 11-30-21, 11:25 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by icemilkcoffee View Post
Neither.



There are some inherent flaws in the Shimano glued-together Hollowtech cranks, that cause them to separate in certain conditions.
Why not just go for the period-correct 7700 era Dura Ace if you must have Dura Ace?
You have got to be kidding me. If you're going to worry about breaking something that is 99.999999999% not going to break you need to find something safe to occupy your time. Like wrapping yourself in bubble wrap and wearing a helmet everywhere. Gimme a break.
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Old 11-30-21, 11:30 AM
  #46  
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Not worried about breakage ....thats what warranties are for .

As for Di2. I could probably handle the wiring but not the price tag over mechanical. Di2 is a little too pricey for me.

Period correct 7700 is an option but its getting hard to find in decent shape and NOS/excellent condition is as expensive as new up to date stuff.
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Old 11-30-21, 11:33 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Iride01 View Post
Yes that is somewhat true. And for most "casual" DIYer's I can see where that would nix it for them. However "dedicated and determined" DIYer's even way back in the vintage days were putting cables for shifters and brakes inside frames that didn't come stock with internal routing.

Di2 wires come in all lengths, so with the correct mounting externally, it can look just as good as the external cable housings that are already on it. Di2 front and rear DR's and any of the components can even share the same wire run with y's or splits at appropriate places as they rely on signaling and not just on/off voltage.

Though off the top of my head, the only issue will be if Di2 ever had a cable pulled STI for the bakes. I thought it did, but without looking it up, I can't be certain.
Maybe SRAM eTap wireless is the answer for a frame not designed for internal cable routing? Doesn't that system remove the wiring between the brifters and the derailleurs, and removes the wiring between the seatpost battery and the DR's, since each brifter and DR has its own battery and the signals between brifters and DR's are fully wireless?
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Old 11-30-21, 11:39 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Rdmonster69 View Post
I guarantee with no reservation that the only time I will know the difference is when I look at the bike. I just want it.
I totally agree! I put DA on my Pinarello because I wanted it and at this point in my life I could afford it. I say go for it!
By the way, the Ultegra that was on my Pinarello I put on my 2004 Litespeed Classic. I think DA on that bike would look great.
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Old 11-30-21, 11:43 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Bald Paul View Post
A Dura Ace groupset will make you look much faster at the rest stops.
I ordered a Litespeed last summer in the middle of covid shutdown. Doing my part to keep businesses busy (or so I told my wife)
Bought the bike for the Hydro DI2 Ultegra. When the bike finally arrived, I opened the box to Dura Ace DI2 9170 with a Praxis carbon crankset because of supply issues at no added cost to me.

Bald Paul is right. No difference to me in performance but it sure puts a smile on my face.
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Old 11-30-21, 11:50 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
You have got to be kidding me. If you're going to worry about breaking something that is 99.999999999% not going to break
The blog where I got the first pic from:
Shimano Dura-Ace FC-9000 Crank Fail ? Carlin the Cyclist
This guy broke TWO of these cranks. From his blog:
As wonderful as it would be to say that I was trashing cranks with my strength like the Yankees have ripped through the American League this summer, thatís not the case. Some of my Strava and Facebook friends have already suggested, tongue in cheek ó that I have too much power.

Anyone who knows me, knows thatís not the case.

In fact, (as I wrote in the Summer of Sarcoidosis) thanks to the chemotherapy treatments Iíve been receiving for sarcoidosis, I doubt Iíve generated more than 150 watts on any ride in 2019.
So this is by no means an isolated incidence. In fact somebody set up an Instagram page to document these failures:
https://www.instagram.com/thanksshimano/
There are a ton of these failures and new pictures are added every couple of days.
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