markk900

Good news indeed! And I think you will get there on the rear setup - I have a 6-speed on my AO-8 and have used an original simplex, a more modern S100 simplex, and a variety of different SunTour V series derailleurs over the years and all of them worked fine with a 28T large sprocket. Be sure your chain is long enough to handle large/large (even if cross chaining is prohibited!) and check your adjustment screw for the lowest gear is backed out enough to allow the travel. You may also find that with those original simplex levers you need to go *way* far around to get the largest rear sprocket - the barrel portion of the lever is smaller diameter than the equivalent simplex or shimano levers which is great for fine adjustment (bigger movement of lever to get same movement of derailleur) but can look weird when engaging the largest rear sprocket.....

dddd

It sounds like you may have too much space between the dropout and the face of the smallest cog (I'm assuming you cable is tight enough).

I've had cases similar to yours where I had to massage the axle-stop or claw-mount hardware using a Dremel grinder to increase clearance to the freewheel and chain. Only then was I able to remove sufficient spacers from the drive side of the axle, thus improving the derailer's effective inward throw.

But firstly, did you get all of the slack out of that cable??? Best to tug on it with pliers while tightening the pinch bolt.
Or, by first shifting to the bigger cogs and then pushing the shift lever forward, there will be more than enough slack in the cable to effect additional tensioning (though you might have to go back and slacken it a bit later).

This bike sure has come a long way.

Javi_bikes

Alright! I can now say i've successfully finished this bicycle!

In the end had to change the rear derailleur from the SunTour GT to the SunTour V-GT Luxe Long Cage. It runs smooth, I know I've probably overkilled with a few of the parts, but seeing as there is sentimental value behind the bike I decided I would splurge to get it right. My only gripe would have to be the length of the crank arms. With the toe cages, you've got to be quick or the cages will drag and its not a pretty noise! That aside, no complaints whatsoever. Phil wood, definitely 2 tools required for a french threaded BB, unless you want to pull your hair out and swear at the world. Luckily I didn't need the shim I homemade for the FD.

Below is the final list of parts!
-Front derailleur: SunTour Spirt
-Rear derailleur: SunTour V-GT Luxe (Long Cage)
-Shifters: Simplex Criterium DownTube Shifters
-Rear freewheel: Shimano 6-speed 14/28
-BB: Philwood square taper (Campy) 115mm with French BB cups & mud caps
-Crankset: Campy Veloce 10 speed (53/39) - 175mm Cranks
-Chain: SRAM PC-870
-Brakes: Original Mafac Racer
-Wheels: 700c alloys
-Paint: spray.bike
-Decals: Velo Orange

Here are some before and after shots. Just need a better saddle now.
Thank you everyone for all of the help! I feel like i've quickly made a second family!

The first photo is exactly how I got a hold of it, no BB just the ND cup... not sure how the cranks and the other half of the BB go missing haha!

sovende

As others have said, you have done a very attractive rebuild on that bike ! I'm sure that many of the Francophiles had to avert their eyes (at least) and perhaps pop a few Valiums to come to grips with the mish-mash of components but hey, it's your bike . The paint job and new decals are super nice! I have several bikes that I'd like to do the same thing to but had a less than optimal results the first time I tried to do so and have been hesitant ever since. I see that you have yet to rotate the front brake pads as suggested in an early post. Perhaps you didn't understand but with the way the pads are positioned in your final pic, there will be a tendency for the rubber part of the pad to slide out of the aluminum holder when the pads press against the rim while braking. Just rotate them 180 deg and problem is solved.
RE: the saddle, I'm not sure that a new one is absolutely necessary but I'm pretty sure that way the final pic shows the saddle position tells me that an adjustment is in order. Saddle position is a matter of personal preference but most start with the ridge of the saddle horizontal and adjust the pitch slightly up or down to comfort. The position shown seems way too much downward pitch!
Just one more comment, the front and rear derailleurs as well as the non-drive side BB cup can be sold (or at least passed on) to a true Francophile who WILL use them for a Peugeot rebuild. I'd offer to take them off your hands but have the exact (near a I can tell from the first "before" pic) set that are going on my Peugeot rebuild. I'll tell you right now, my rebuild will be nowhere near as nice as yours .

Cycle Tourist

I think it's a uo-10 now at the very least. My old UO frame, ($30 on CL) became my grocery getter built up from my best spare parts at the time. I meant to sell it but just can't seem part with it. It just feels right. I added a Brooks saddle recently, oh and a chain.😅