Fixed from old mtb (chain line problem)
10-07-22, 03:53 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: South Italy
Posts: 1,015
Bikes: BMC SLR01; Cannondale Trail; Lot's of project and vintage bikes..
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 333 Post(s)
Liked 168 Times
in
101 Posts
Fixed from old mtb (chain line problem)
Hello, i restored an old MTB frame from late 1987.
My idea was to convert as a fixed bike, i ordered a track gear but when i mounted on the hub noticed that the chain line seems very problematic, since the hub is very short.....
Which are the possible solution without discarding the new sprocket?
My idea was to convert as a fixed bike, i ordered a track gear but when i mounted on the hub noticed that the chain line seems very problematic, since the hub is very short.....
Which are the possible solution without discarding the new sprocket?
Last edited by CrowSeph; 10-07-22 at 03:56 PM.
10-07-22, 04:04 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,699
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5775 Post(s)
Liked 2,573 Times
in
1,424 Posts
That appears to be a traditional cup/cone hub on a threaded axle.
If so, simply remove both end caps (no need to remove cones unless you also want to service the bearings while at it). and transfer some spacers from right to left to move the shell to where you need it. Once the chain line is right, redish the wheel based on the new hub spacing.
On a separate but IMPORTANT note, be aware that riding fixed using a hub that isn't counter-threaded for a lockring, is problematic and could be dangerous if you're depending on reverse thrust (pedal resistance) for braking. I've heard all sorts of excuses from "using superglue" to "I don't use back pedal pressure" and still consider this a somewhat dangerous way to make a ghetto fixed gear.
OTOH- if your goal is simply going single speed, a single freewheel will solve your problems.
If so, simply remove both end caps (no need to remove cones unless you also want to service the bearings while at it). and transfer some spacers from right to left to move the shell to where you need it. Once the chain line is right, redish the wheel based on the new hub spacing.
On a separate but IMPORTANT note, be aware that riding fixed using a hub that isn't counter-threaded for a lockring, is problematic and could be dangerous if you're depending on reverse thrust (pedal resistance) for braking. I've heard all sorts of excuses from "using superglue" to "I don't use back pedal pressure" and still consider this a somewhat dangerous way to make a ghetto fixed gear.
OTOH- if your goal is simply going single speed, a single freewheel will solve your problems.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 10-07-22 at 04:09 PM.
Likes For FBinNY:
10-08-22, 03:09 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Posts: 5,925
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1819 Post(s)
Liked 1,693 Times
in
974 Posts
That appears to be a traditional cup/cone hub on a threaded axle.
If so, simply remove both end caps (no need to remove cones unless you also want to service the bearings while at it). and transfer some spacers from right to left to move the shell to where you need it. Once the chain line is right, redish the wheel based on the new hub spacing.
On a separate but IMPORTANT note, be aware that riding fixed using a hub that isn't counter-threaded for a lockring, is problematic and could be dangerous if you're depending on reverse thrust (pedal resistance) for braking. I've heard all sorts of excuses from "using superglue" to "I don't use back pedal pressure" and still consider this a somewhat dangerous way to make a ghetto fixed gear.
OTOH- if your goal is simply going single speed, a single freewheel will solve your problems.
If so, simply remove both end caps (no need to remove cones unless you also want to service the bearings while at it). and transfer some spacers from right to left to move the shell to where you need it. Once the chain line is right, redish the wheel based on the new hub spacing.
On a separate but IMPORTANT note, be aware that riding fixed using a hub that isn't counter-threaded for a lockring, is problematic and could be dangerous if you're depending on reverse thrust (pedal resistance) for braking. I've heard all sorts of excuses from "using superglue" to "I don't use back pedal pressure" and still consider this a somewhat dangerous way to make a ghetto fixed gear.
OTOH- if your goal is simply going single speed, a single freewheel will solve your problems.
10-09-22, 03:57 AM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: South Italy
Posts: 1,015
Bikes: BMC SLR01; Cannondale Trail; Lot's of project and vintage bikes..
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 333 Post(s)
Liked 168 Times
in
101 Posts
All this. I don't know about what you plan to do with this bike, hoping that you don't plan on actual mountain biking. Single speed mountain biking with a single speed freewheel has an enthusiastic following that I don't get but do not disparage. However fixed gear on tricky singletrack is a recipe for disaster. Imagine, you are approaching a log that you have to get over, but you cannot adjust the position of your pedals as you approach so your feet may be in that magic position where one pedal contacts the log head on as you go over. You will STOP right then probably throwing you over the handlebar ending up who knows where. Fixed gear should not be used off road
10-09-22, 08:35 PM
#5
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 13,506
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4348 Post(s)
Liked 3,985 Times
in
2,661 Posts
They make 130mm and 135mm fixed gear hubs you could build a wheel with one of those otherwise I wouldn't do it. Get the proper single speed hub or just run a normal freewheel and just keep your chain on one gear if you are really that cheap.
