Originally Posted by Koyote

You’re riding tires at a psi that’s actually slower because they “feel fast.” You wrote that.

Originally Posted by smd4

Again (realizing I won’t get an answer) what’s the difference?

Originally Posted by Koyote

I guess you enjoy being slower. And taking an ass-pounding. 😅

Originally Posted by elcruxio

Cycling's a big industry. Saying that it isn't driven by science is a smiliarly a big statement. Cycling isn't driven by ready perfect solutions, but I've yet to see and industry that is.



Perhaps. Too much stiffness in the rear tringle or actually the seatpost area decreses cornering traction so boo for too stiff aero seatposts.



Are they though? Even though there are expensive products on the market doesn't automatically mean valuable to the sport.



Depends on your surface. On track narrow and high pressure is good. On cracked tarmac not so much. Wider in typical riding pressures is more comfortable though and still competetive in RR against narrow tires. But of course there is a taper off point. A slick fatbike tire will never beat a 25mm GP5000 S-TR.

But still the tire itself seems to matter more than the width of it. Fast tires are fast even when wide and slow tires are slow no matter how narrow you shrink them. But again when looking for max speed width and pressure should be dictated by surface conditions.



Reallly the sealant should never contact nipples, but accidents do happen. Also there are ammonia free sealants out there.



Warranty applies in the EU if such things weren't in the manual. And even if they were, warranty can't be voided if the actions required in the manual were out of order.



Which chainrings? I'm not disputing this one. I just would like to know which.



This is indeed a problem as is quality control in some disc brake mounts. Really a frame should never need facing of any kind.



Specialized straps are pretty dang nice. So I guess they have...?



I'm quite certain this isn't true.

In the BB area, depends on the BB. Not as common as typically believed because most BB creaks or clicks are in fact dry pedal threads. Pretty much non existent in threaded BB's.

Where would a bar, stem, steerer creak even originate from? Modern headsets, stems, bars and steerers have far more bolts and surface area and therefore far more clamping area and clamping pressure than the stuff of yore. They have smaller wall thicknesses and larger diameters which can make a smaller sound audible. However that also means they're less bendy and 'creaky' than their predecessors. If correct torques and chemicals are used in these areas they are in no way more noisy. Actually it's the other way round.

Seatposts are also typically larger than they used to be, before things settled down to 27.2mm. Hence less creak potential. Then again longer extensions from frame which put more stress on the clamp area. However that is a massive increase in riding comfort. So with seatposts maybe, but in the end I'll accept the occasional creak as it's quickly solved with a cleanup and regrease. Only happens with the mtb as that is the only bike where grease gets washed away by water and grime etc.



Yeah. The KOPS should just die away.




There is and there isn't depending on a few factors. But really the more important factor is the opening angle of the pubic arch as that effectively dictates the shape one can use. It's pretty difficult to measure without an MRI machine but not entirely impossible.

I can only use saddles which are almost triangular. A friend of mine with a more open arch angle can't use those and needs a more T-shaped profile.

The sitbone width thing only really comes up when riding bikes with a pronouncedly upright riding position (like the dutch omafiets). That's really the only situation where you really sit on the saddle instead of perching on it. However many e-bikes have that riding position so in the future perhaps sitbone width won't be such a useless metric.

In my opinion there isn't one saddle to rule them all. Every riding position needs its own saddle. You can't ride an omafiets with a TT-saddle anymore you can use a brooks B67 on TT-bike.