So NOW what? (vintage Raleigh content)
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So NOW what? (vintage Raleigh content)
I added to the years-long Raleigh Grand Prix thread over on the C&V forum ( Here )
I was moving ahead with the switch from the original steel 27” wheels to some alloy 700c wheels I had on hand when I hit a snag: the front fork is WAY narrower than 100mm. (see pic)
We’re talking like 80mm! I had read Sheldon’s pages, and threads here, about how it would be narrower, maybe 90-92, and spreading the fork a bit, but come on, man. You can see that my Dutch-made GP has Brampton track hubs and apparently a super narrow width.
Assuming this is not a distance that can be overcome by spreading (I don’t want to ride a compromised fork), I need to either
1. Stick with 27”, which will mean buying 27” tires, which aren’t a great deal these days and precludes wider tires, and also living with the heavy steel wheels.
2. Find another (cheap/free) donor Raleigh with a more normal spacing and use that fork
3. Get a new fork, which means getting a new headset (as the Raleigh is 26tpi, not 24).
Where I need help is re: option 3 (if I even want to spend the money!) on how to identify a fork and headset that would work.
Would something like this work? JIS fork
I believe what I need is a J.I.S. fork, as the only difference between that and the Raleigh is the TPI, right?
And then can I just use a regular 1” threaded headset top race and nut to mate with the new fork, but retain the Raleigh cups, or do I need to have the whole headset replaced?
Thanks for any help
I was moving ahead with the switch from the original steel 27” wheels to some alloy 700c wheels I had on hand when I hit a snag: the front fork is WAY narrower than 100mm. (see pic)
We’re talking like 80mm! I had read Sheldon’s pages, and threads here, about how it would be narrower, maybe 90-92, and spreading the fork a bit, but come on, man. You can see that my Dutch-made GP has Brampton track hubs and apparently a super narrow width.
Assuming this is not a distance that can be overcome by spreading (I don’t want to ride a compromised fork), I need to either
1. Stick with 27”, which will mean buying 27” tires, which aren’t a great deal these days and precludes wider tires, and also living with the heavy steel wheels.
2. Find another (cheap/free) donor Raleigh with a more normal spacing and use that fork
3. Get a new fork, which means getting a new headset (as the Raleigh is 26tpi, not 24).
Where I need help is re: option 3 (if I even want to spend the money!) on how to identify a fork and headset that would work.
Would something like this work? JIS fork
I believe what I need is a J.I.S. fork, as the only difference between that and the Raleigh is the TPI, right?
And then can I just use a regular 1” threaded headset top race and nut to mate with the new fork, but retain the Raleigh cups, or do I need to have the whole headset replaced?
Thanks for any help
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I will measure when I get home, but I might have a spare (narrow) old-school high flange hub if you're interested (you'd pay postage only)? It's the style with 2 wing nuts for the 'quick release'
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Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans. (o.o)
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You will need the right sized spokes, but you could lace the old hubs to the new rims. Or have you already thrown them out?
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Why not rebuild the wheel to 700C using your hub?
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Mostly cost, and because I've never done wheelbuilding before.
(I've stripped & restored metal, paint and refinished, assembled from frame up, cleaned and repacked or replaced headsets, BBs, cranks, pedals, brakes, stems, shifters, bars, tape/grips, cables, chains, front & rear ders, posts, seats, swapped hubs & freewheels, so I'm not a noob, BUT ---- I've never unlaced or built up a wheel, or even trued one.)
(I've stripped & restored metal, paint and refinished, assembled from frame up, cleaned and repacked or replaced headsets, BBs, cranks, pedals, brakes, stems, shifters, bars, tape/grips, cables, chains, front & rear ders, posts, seats, swapped hubs & freewheels, so I'm not a noob, BUT ---- I've never unlaced or built up a wheel, or even trued one.)
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There are a lot of on-line tutorials and excellent books showing how wheel building is done. If you get appropriate rims and spokes and just relace the new rims to your current hubs, a good bike shop could complete the tensioning and truing at a relatively low cost. The needed tools are simple and low cost, basically just a properly sized spoke wrench and a screwdriver to spin the nipples in place.
BTW, have you checked to see if your brake pads will adjust the needed 4 mm lower to align with 700c rims?
BTW, have you checked to see if your brake pads will adjust the needed 4 mm lower to align with 700c rims?
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There are a lot of on-line tutorials and excellent books showing how wheel building is done. If you get appropriate rims and spokes and just relace the new rims to your current hubs, a good bike shop could complete the tensioning and truing at a relatively low cost. The needed tools are simple and low cost, basically just a properly sized spoke wrench and a screwdriver to spin the nipples in place.
BTW, have you checked to see if your brake pads will adjust the needed 4 mm lower to align with 700c rims?
BTW, have you checked to see if your brake pads will adjust the needed 4 mm lower to align with 700c rims?
It hasn’t been ridden in decades, and thought I'd try it out, maybe keep it as an extra just-riding-around bike or give it to a family member, but I wanted to at least replace the wheels/tires, saddle, bars, stem, pedals with stuff I already had around that is new/newer, but that won't wreck the overall aesthetic. Then if I DIDN'T enjoy riding it in slightly-improved form, I could put it back as-was and sell it on, cleaned, and rehabbed, to someone else - lot of work, but I enjoy the learning experience and the work regardless).
It's clear to me now that I've gotta figure out whether it's a worthwhile project for me if I'm getting into additional expenses and time.
Last edited by Charliekeet; 04-05-21 at 11:52 AM.