zsid

Personally I hate to purchase single function tools, so I was wondering if the the Channellock 926 would be able to open a master link/quicklink. Can I use a pair of snap ring pliers as a masterlink plier?

Crankycrank

Yes, most will work, including the Channellock but some of the cheaper ones made of swiss cheese may bend the tips. Try yours and see. You could also cut up an old allen wrench of the correct size to use for tips for chain removal rather than risk feckering up the nice Channellock tips.

dedhed

I ground/filed a couple grooves in a pair of mig pliers I found in the road

​​​​​​https://www.airgas.com/product/Weldi...2cd&fo_s=cstmc

HillRider

I did the same thing with a pair of cheap needle nose pliers I found on the road while riding. I filed the noses thin enough to fit into the links and filed a pair of matching grooves across the noses. So far they have worked perfectly at no cost.

elcruxio

I have to say, I thought masterlink pliers were a silly single use tool taking up space. But after getting a proper pair I find they're quite invaluable. So much better than any tool hack I've used earlier.

It's not the opening that's the handy part. It's the closing. Most masterlinks tend to be far more tricky to close than open.

dedhed

Chain on top step on pedal

KerryIrons

Curious. I have a set to open the quick link, but never use them to close it. As dedhed says, you just put pressure on the pedal and they snap right into place.

For those who grind their own tools, I have to wonder if the cost of the grinder is ever paid back compared to actually purchasing the special tools. There aren't that many special bicycle tools you can make with a grinder. Maybe it's just sour grapes because I don't own a grinder.

zandoval 

I use a simple wire type tool for my Quick Links. If the link is really stuck then it is most likely damaged so I go to my Chain Breaker for removal. Also note that even though not necessary I recently stopped reusing my Quick Links when I had one come apart in my hands after removal.

https://www.bikeforums.net/22778564-post14.html

HillRider

I have had a grinder for years, bought used from a yard sale for $25. So, not a big expense and used for numerous other jobs over the time I've had it. I certainly wouldn't buy one just to make one relatively cheap tool. BTW, I saw it while riding my bike past the yard sale on my way home one day.

blacknbluebikes 

There's always a hack, sure. But, there's this funny saying, "Right tool for the job..."

squirtdad

I have the same experience, getting master link pliers was one of my better purchases, seemed like overkill but really reduced effort and frustration

the other cool thing for putting chains together is a simple bit of long u shaped wire to hold the change together when installing the link

HillRider

Yep, another zero cost tool. I cut a 6" long piece of a wire coat hanger (remember those?), bent it into a shallow U-shape and bent a hook at each end. Insert the end hooks through the chain ends leaving enough slack to overlap the two end links, insert the master link and snap it together. The tool takes the rear derailleur's tension off the chain while you are joining it.

dedhed

Old brake caliper spring

dedhed

Bob Ross

^^^This. Totally agree!

...and yet it has never even occurred to me that one could use masterlink pliers to close the link! Nor that one would even need a tool to do so. I just slip the two halves together by hand, very gently backpedal so that the masterlink is on top between cassette and chainring, and then give a good solid stomp down to the forward pedal. Boom, locked link.

Jicafold

I do this all the time.

Camilo

I have a slim needle nose that I have used before I got the $12 tool.... which I use quite a bit more frequently than other non-specialty tools I have.

elcraft

I WOULD recommend buying a bench grinder! A grinder has many other valuable uses, as well. It can be mounted with polishing wheels or cut-off/ sitting discs. Some use it to even the ends of compressionless/ indexing cable housing for cleaner more precise shifting. Grinding the mildly rounded end of an Allen wrench can revitalize it. Shortening bolts and cleaning up the threaded end or thinning down shims/washers are valuable for a myriad of reasons. The imported/ cheap versions cost between $30 and $60. Along with a bench vise, these may be one of the most versatile tools for any home shop. If mounted to a board, they can be clamped to a table or picnic bench when needed and stowed when not.

easyupbug 

Probably sounds silly but building up a frame (not simple maintenance) is a zen like experience for me where I relax and love the rhythm of the tasks until I have to take the bike off the stand and press the pedal to set the quick link or use one of a drawer full of snap ring pliers, heavy and light with 90 degree heads on them which I used for years. Then I got these and all is well: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D6NV4TL/?tag=dwym-20

Steel Charlie

Hard to believe that people with the bucks to buy a bike won't pop $8 for a proper tool. I bought two on fleabay, gave one to my brother and didn't have to miss a single meal.
YMMV of course

pdlamb

Equally hard to believe we used quick links for a couple decades before we learned we needed a special tool to disconnect them. How ever did we unhook the links before??

Oh, yeah, cocked a normal pair of pliers sideways and squeezed.

dedhed

Most people who own a bench grinder are the DIY type and will have numerous grinding power tools and use them for lots of different things. I have an 8" bench grinder, 3 angle grinders, dremel, and even an air die grinder. realistically modifying a pair of pliers into a chain link plier could be done with a flat file and a rat tail file by hand. If I recall I put the groove in with a file.

Koyote

I just remove the chain from the chainring and let it rest on the BB shell while attaching the masterlink.

HillRider

Many of the early master links like Craig's and most Connex came apart with moderate hand pressure and didn't need tools of any kind. That's not true anymore.

jccaclimber

Typically I don't grind a tool because I don't want to pay for the correct thing, I grind a tool because I don't want to wait for the correct thing. Middle of the night swapping a clutch, socket doesn't fit the pressure plate to flywheel screws on the replacement and I *am* going to use a torque wrench on them. Ground down the socket wall at midnight, got the car back together and drove it the next day. Still had to replace my socket, but it was better than the hassle of my little brother that I was giving the car to waiting another day before going home.

Often I'm already fabricating something and the grinder is a fast way to prep an edge, deburr something, etc. Vs. using a file it saves me loads of time = money. The ability to modify a tool is just a bonus.