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2nd Wheelset - Hubs on Stock Bikes?

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2nd Wheelset - Hubs on Stock Bikes?

Old 11-27-21, 11:42 AM
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Noonievut
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2nd Wheelset - Hubs on Stock Bikes?

I was looking at three different gravel/allroad bikes and the hubs on them I don't believe are the ones you commonly see on wheel sets you buy separately. For example, 'Formula' hubs on a Kona Rove, 'Bombtrack TAU' on a Bombtrack, and on another bike they're not listed in the spec (another set of WTB rims though, is I'll assume 'Formula' hubs, like the Rove).

For the many folks out there with two wheel sets, and for those who advise of having the same hubs so that spacing is the same and no adjustment to rotor centering needed, what do you do? Do you buy two wheelsets after market, have them built, etc.?

On a previous bike I had two wheel sets and the swap was not easy, therefore, it wasn't done often. Sure I could have been more patient and learned how to do it better, but it just pissed me off (eventually sold the bike and spare wheels...though for a different reason).
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Old 11-27-21, 01:52 PM
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wsteve464
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The rotor spacing should be standard between different manuf on the same type of hub, I have not had a problem with 3 or so wheel sets.
if there is a difference you can buy shims that go between the rotor and hub. As long as the hub is the same ie all boost hubs or all non boost fittng different wheels should be a five minute job.
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Old 11-27-21, 04:13 PM
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Ghazmh
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Centering the caliper on the rotor each time you swap wheels would add about 90-120 seconds to the wheel swap process. Loosen caliper mounting bolts, squeeze lever, tighten bolts(torque to spec) then test. Repeat if necessary.
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Old 11-29-21, 03:24 PM
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I have two wheel sets and they have use different hub brands - no shims needed, both line up the same when installed.
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Old 11-29-21, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by wsteve464 View Post
The rotor spacing should be standard between different manuf on the same type of hub, I have not had a problem with 3 or so wheel sets.
if there is a difference you can buy shims that go between the rotor and hub. As long as the hub is the same ie all boost hubs or all non boost fittng different wheels should be a five minute job.
This. +1.

Ideally there will be no problem, but on the off chance there are, then shim them.
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Old 11-30-21, 08:14 PM
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I've found that hub spacing is pretty spot-on, even between brands (I have Novatec and 105 hubs). I do have to adjust the calipers, but I think that's mostly because I'm going between centerlock and 6-bolt. But like Ghazmh said, that only adds a minute or two to the process.
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Old 12-01-21, 01:39 AM
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I just re-center the caliper when I do a wheel swap. It's a quick job. I have a set of dtswiss E1800s with a 370 hub for the road and fulcrum rapid red 900s (not sure of hub) for gravel. Same cassette so I don't need to re-adjust the rear derailleur
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Old 12-02-21, 09:35 AM
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I have an OEM wheelset with Formula 6-bolt disc hubs, and a pair of Zipp 303S wheels which are centerlock. I am using different rotors as well - the Formula hubs have Shimano RT56, and the Zipp hubs have Shimano XT (MT800). Out of the box there was some slight rubbing on the Zipps. As others have noted, it's fairly simple to re-center the caliper, but it's also fairly simple to add shims to the rotors to get them aligned between different wheelsets. In my case I set the calipers to align with the Zipps, and added shims to the Formula hub's 6-bolt rotors. The shims cost just a few bucks, took just a few minutes to install, and now I'm able to swap wheels with no rubbing and no need to touch the brakes.

I have noticed that I need to do a slight RD barrel adjustment when swapping between these wheels to keep the shifting running cleanly. It works without touching it, but there is some extra noise on the lower gears. I'm running identical cassettes on both sets so there's either a slight variation in cassette manufacturing, or the freehub bodies are slightly different. Either way - after I swap wheels, I'll run the chain up and down the cassette a few times, and a half turn or so on the barrel seems to sort it out. This only takes a few seconds and is no big deal.
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Old 12-02-21, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by msu2001la View Post
I have noticed that I need to do a slight RD barrel adjustment when swapping between these wheels to keep the shifting running cleanly. It works without touching it, but there is some extra noise on the lower gears. I'm running identical cassettes on both sets so there's either a slight variation in cassette manufacturing, or the freehub bodies are slightly different. Either way - after I swap wheels, I'll run the chain up and down the cassette a few times, and a half turn or so on the barrel seems to sort it out. This only takes a few seconds and is no big deal.
Does one of the rear wheels have a spacer installed before the cassette and the other rear wheel does not have the spacer?
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Old 12-02-21, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by tdilf View Post
Does one of the rear wheels have a spacer installed before the cassette and the other rear wheel does not have the spacer?
No spacers on either. Both are 11sp hubs running 11sp SRAM PG-1170 11-32 cassettes, which I don't believe require any spacers.
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Old 12-02-21, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by tdilf View Post
Does one of the rear wheels have a spacer installed before the cassette and the other rear wheel does not have the spacer?
I would almost expect more variance between the cassette placement then I would the disc rotors. Different brands use different freehub designs with only the spline being the commonality, since the der has a lot of adjustability I can see companies playing with this spacing to optimize their freehub design.

OP, a lot of branded hubs are just basic formulas with different labels slapped on them. An 09 C-dale mtb, a 14 Raleigh kid's cross bike, 17 diamondback kid's bike and 19 c-dale cross bike all featured the same exact same disc hub, no label but the same in every dimension and all overweight. Plenty of entry level aftermarket wheels will feature the same hub.
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