Suntour FD cable housing stop missing -- workaround?
11-12-15, 02:32 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 3,265
Bikes: '82 Univega Competizione, '72 Motobecane Grand Record, '83 Mercian KOM Touring, '85 Univega Alpina Uno, '76 Eisentraut Limited
Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1088 Post(s)
Liked 1,205 Times
in
701 Posts
Suntour FD cable housing stop missing -- workaround?
Newbie question:
I just bought a vintage Suntour Cyclone MII FD, but I failed to notice that the cable housing stop was missing (see pic). Will this be impossible to find? Can I work around its absence or craft a suitable/reliable fix?
Thanks...
I just bought a vintage Suntour Cyclone MII FD, but I failed to notice that the cable housing stop was missing (see pic). Will this be impossible to find? Can I work around its absence or craft a suitable/reliable fix?
Thanks...
11-12-15, 02:55 PM
#2
Senior Member
You can hose clamp/zip tie the housing to the frame in the appropriate spot. It won't work as nicely, and will require fiddling, but will work.
11-12-15, 03:03 PM
#3
Banned
Why not just look for another FD it's not like they are expensive.
using a Plastic under the BB guide you dont need the housing stop.
using a Plastic under the BB guide you dont need the housing stop.
Last edited by fietsbob; 11-12-15 at 03:08 PM.
11-12-15, 03:39 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 8,319
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1438 Post(s)
Liked 1,092 Times
in
723 Posts
Perhaps the cable housing stop from a Weinmann-style caliper brake could be adapted for use. You would get a barrel adjuster as well.
11-12-15, 03:50 PM
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 3,265
Bikes: '82 Univega Competizione, '72 Motobecane Grand Record, '83 Mercian KOM Touring, '85 Univega Alpina Uno, '76 Eisentraut Limited
Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1088 Post(s)
Liked 1,205 Times
in
701 Posts
Thanks for these ideas, everyone! I'll let you know how it goes.
11-12-15, 05:58 PM
#6
Senior Member
Try to find a downtube housing stop at a coop or a old LBS and mount that to the seat tube just below the derailleur . they the clamp style and was use on older bikes for a long time .
11-12-15, 11:02 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Big Apple
Posts: 1,428
Bikes: yes
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 512 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 409 Times
in
176 Posts
Some of those Cyclone Mk II derailleurs didn't have integrated cable stops. I have one of the band-on types (as opposed to clamp-on) w/o the stop.
I had this issue with a replacement derailleur I put on a Motobecane and used an Origin 8 single cable stop (around $7-8) as a work-around.
Or you could go old school and try to obtain a bottom bracket guide like this:
I had this issue with a replacement derailleur I put on a Motobecane and used an Origin 8 single cable stop (around $7-8) as a work-around.
Or you could go old school and try to obtain a bottom bracket guide like this:
Last edited by Vintage_Cyclist; 11-13-15 at 10:21 AM.
03-11-16, 02:52 PM
#9
Standard Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Brunswick, Maine
Posts: 4,253
Bikes: 1948 P. Barnard & Son, 1962 Rudge Sports, 1963 Freddie Grubb Routier, 1980 Manufrance Hirondelle, 1983 F. Moser Sprint, 1989 Raleigh Technium Pre, 2001 Raleigh M80
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1293 Post(s)
Liked 933 Times
in
486 Posts
@ vintage cyclist: Wow. That cable guide is nice!
__________________
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
03-11-16, 03:22 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,056
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4195 Post(s)
Liked 3,837 Times
in
2,295 Posts
Some of those Cyclone Mk II derailleurs didn't have integrated cable stops. I have one of the band-on types (as opposed to clamp-on) w/o the stop.
I had this issue with a replacement derailleur I put on a Motobecane and used an Origin 8 single cable stop (around $7-8) as a work-around.
Or you could go old school and try to obtain a bottom bracket guide like this:
I had this issue with a replacement derailleur I put on a Motobecane and used an Origin 8 single cable stop (around $7-8) as a work-around.
Or you could go old school and try to obtain a bottom bracket guide like this:
This isn't a big deal but if that bike were ever to be shown at a concours show it would be a point or more off the bike's score. And if that were the way a race bike were set up and the cable ever slipped off the guide during a race the mechanic would be sorry, maybe out of a job. Andy.
03-11-16, 05:13 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18349 Post(s)
Liked 4,502 Times
in
3,346 Posts
Here is your stop.
The upper derailleur, "Sprint" has a non-removable stop, and is unique in that the cable is connected to a fixed bolt, and the hosing stop moves. The derailleur is normally on the big ring when cable is released (lever forward), and shifts into the small ring when the lever is pulled back. So, like the rear, harder with shift lever forward, and easier when shift lever back.
The stop scews out with the lower derailleur as you've shown.
I've thought about cutting a similar stop out of a bolt head, but the heads typically aren't deep enough to be large enough to do it. You could also braze a stop onto a bolt, but it would mess with your angles.
The upper derailleur, "Sprint" has a non-removable stop, and is unique in that the cable is connected to a fixed bolt, and the hosing stop moves. The derailleur is normally on the big ring when cable is released (lever forward), and shifts into the small ring when the lever is pulled back. So, like the rear, harder with shift lever forward, and easier when shift lever back.
The stop scews out with the lower derailleur as you've shown.
I've thought about cutting a similar stop out of a bolt head, but the heads typically aren't deep enough to be large enough to do it. You could also braze a stop onto a bolt, but it would mess with your angles.
03-11-16, 05:39 PM
#12
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,776
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3582 Post(s)
Liked 3,394 Times
in
1,928 Posts
03-12-16, 06:59 PM
#13
Senior Member
Yes, that would work. Thanks again to someone showing me what the manufacture intended for the job.
Here is your stop.
The upper derailleur, "Sprint" has a non-removable stop, and is unique in that the cable is connected to a fixed bolt, and the hosing stop moves. The derailleur is normally on the big ring when cable is released (lever forward), and shifts into the small ring when the lever is pulled back. So, like the rear, harder with shift lever forward, and easier when shift lever back.
The stop scews out with the lower derailleur as you've shown.
I've thought about cutting a similar stop out of a bolt head, but the heads typically aren't deep enough to be large enough to do it. You could also braze a stop onto a bolt, but it would mess with your angles.
The upper derailleur, "Sprint" has a non-removable stop, and is unique in that the cable is connected to a fixed bolt, and the hosing stop moves. The derailleur is normally on the big ring when cable is released (lever forward), and shifts into the small ring when the lever is pulled back. So, like the rear, harder with shift lever forward, and easier when shift lever back.
The stop scews out with the lower derailleur as you've shown.
I've thought about cutting a similar stop out of a bolt head, but the heads typically aren't deep enough to be large enough to do it. You could also braze a stop onto a bolt, but it would mess with your angles.
03-12-16, 07:09 PM
#14
Banned
Steel rod, drilled and counter bored, and a Lathe
reducing the larger rod to 5mm then threading it on the lathe
Or a 5 x .8 threading die will make them ..
reducing the larger rod to 5mm then threading it on the lathe
Or a 5 x .8 threading die will make them ..
Last edited by fietsbob; 03-12-16 at 07:13 PM.
09-30-21, 10:14 AM
#16
(rhymes with spook)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Winslow, AR
Posts: 2,788
Bikes: '83 univega gran turismo x2, '85 schwinn super le tour,'89 miyata triple cross, '91 GT tequesta, '90 yokota grizzly peak, '94 GT backwoods, '95'ish scott tampico, '98 bonty privateer, '93 mongoose crossway 625, '98 parkpre ariel, 2k'ish giant fcr3
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 919 Post(s)
Liked 745 Times
in
546 Posts
09-30-21, 10:23 AM
#17
Full Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 237
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 107 Post(s)
Liked 151 Times
in
96 Posts
That's what I was thinking as I went to install one that is missing the cable stop. Now I remember why I placed it in the parts-bin many years ago.
Likes For James1964:
12-17-21, 07:47 AM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Toledo Ohio
Posts: 1,493
Bikes: 1964 Huffy Sportsman, 1972 Fuji Newest, 1973 Schwinn Super Sport (3), 1982 Trek 412, 1983 Trek 700, 1989 Miyata 1000LT, 1991 Bianchi Boardwalk, plus others
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 582 Post(s)
Liked 697 Times
in
393 Posts
Another solution
Saw another FD cable stop thread going shortly after I was looking at this one. I found something in my parts stash to affect a change to the Cyclone Mkll and thought others might be interested. I have since decided to use a VX front on this build instead. The part is the cable stop end from this brake QR bracket. I think I had a loose one laying around. Threads matched.
Then, a couple washers to get a nice shoulder to tighten to and get a proper alignment, and then add a brake cable barrel adjuster.
Thought this could be helpful for future reference.
Then, a couple washers to get a nice shoulder to tighten to and get a proper alignment, and then add a brake cable barrel adjuster.
Thought this could be helpful for future reference.
Likes For sd5782:
