jamesdak 

I'm heading that way right now too with a more modern Cannondale aluminum bike. Today it's at 16 lbs 8 ozs but should be in the 15 lb range when the tubulars I bought for it make it in.

sdn40

Just wondering which Cannondale is your project ??

capnjonny 

So, it looks like there are a lot of you folks that like playing weight weenie. It has been fun reading your individual takes on the game. For me the rules are pretty simple. Using only what I can scrounge from the bins at the bike exchange, try to get this already light 54 cm 1989 Iron man Master down to 20 lbs.

So here is what I've got so far

Original weight fully equipped with saddle and black plastic pedals 21.80 lbs.
aluminum straight bar with levers - .56
wheels and tires - .65
Saddle and post - .62
crank (single 45tooth chainring) - .13
Derailleurs (swap short cage and front for long cage rear only - .17
__________________________________________________________________
Weight after reductions 19.67 lbs with sunrace 11-32 cassette

That is it so far. I am doing a partial repaint on the frame and will have to wait a few weeks till I can re fit everything. hopefully my math works and the total will come out right. If I have weight to spare I will probably put a nice Fizic saddle on it that has a little more padding then the racing saddle shown The difference is .47 to.54lbs so I will still be under 20lbs. without really doing anything exotic. I promise i will post pics when complete.

Original saddle and post on left

flat bar and stem 1.47 lb. complete vs drop bar with bar tape and stem 2.22

Single chainring(w/ both crank arms) -.13 lbs. vs double chainrings

Shimano 105 long cage rear only vs Shimano tri color 600 short cage plus front der. - .17 lbs.

Dt Swiss wheels and Bontrager tires with Sunrace 11-32 9 spd cassette vs original miss matched tires and rims with Hyperglide 12- 30 8 spd cassette -.17 lbs.

jamesdak 

06 CAAD8 Optimo


Taken before I swapped the 7 speed Shimano 105 FD for the proper 10 speed Dura Ace one.

jamesdak 

This is a fun post to watch, keep 'er going!

On a side note, I too like getting a lot of my bikes light. But the funny thing that's happened this year as I've run all 20+ bikes at max effort for a silly goal is that, so far the heaviest one has posted the fastest overall pace by a large margin. The lightest is one of the bikes posting the slowest so far. There's an over 6 lb difference between the bikes.

I hate it when reality shows me how foolish I am.

Not that I'm going to change my ways.

ThermionicScott 

Going from one long seat post to another... how much do you really need for your fit?

Classtime 

We do need a picture of this IM. AND yes cut down the seat post and those bars are about twice as wide/long as they need to be. Get serious. How many brakes do you need?

capnjonny 

I went through all the dozen seat posts in my stash and a bunch at the Bike Exchange and this is the lightest one I found. My goal isn't to build the lightest possible bike regardless of cost, just to see if I could get the weight down to 20 lbs. using parts I had on hand or could pull off the shelf at the Exchange. If this one comes in under 20 lbs including saddle and pedals it will be the lightest bike I have ever worked on and I have restored over a hundred bikes for the Exchange. Other than this one the lightest so far was the 58 cm aluminum Vitus at 20+ lbs. Most vintage sport or race bikes I have weighed are between 22 and 25 lbs, fully equipped and ready to ride. I have never worked on a full carbon bike.

squirtdad

+1 on the bars....if this is to be a city bike they are way to wide and will get in the way on those trips to Chromatic and Hapas

ThermionicScott 

I saved 65 grams cutting one seatpost to size, and a bit over 80 grams on another. People spend good money trying to accomplish that through buying lighter parts!

Darth Lefty 

Weight weenies don't carry things like tools and spares! DEAD WEIGHT that shows lack of commitment. Get a flat, use your apple watch to summon an uber

Classic cranksets with solid aluminum arms and solid spindles are pretty porky. When 2lo8 did his project a few years ago he used a really cool gun bored Rotor crank with a BSA30 bottom bracket.
https://2lo8.wordpress.com/my-non-carbon-bike-6-7kg/

SRAM dome cassettes are really cool, with price to match.

capnjonny 

I finished the bike today. Final weight 19.95 lb . I weighed it 3 times just to be sure it wasn't touching something that would change the weight.
Per previous comment about the bars, what was shown was the grips just barely over the ends so I could weigh it. in finished form the bars are just right.
I had to change the brake levers. The shiny ones were actually for V brakes. The (new) ones were probably a few grams heavier.

I switched the original Tri color mech for 105 because the new crank was a triple and using the middle position for the single chainring made the chain line better.

There might be a few grams more I could take off if I was REALLY motivated and rich but I am more than satisfied with the results as is.
I created a very light bike without going crazy and the cost was nothing as all the parts were in the bins at the Bike Exchange.
As well as the lightening I also repainted the bike. masking off all the grey areas and spraying Rustoleum Automotive white over the existing white parts after treating it for rust and spot priming.
Then I took off the masking and clear coated the entire frame and fork. If you look real close you can still see some of the original pitting under the new paint but all things considered I think it came out pretty good.

Pompiere

Does the weight of tools and spares carried in your pockets count?