Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

Are these pedals rebuildable?

Search
Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Are these pedals rebuildable?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-27-23, 09:01 PM
  #1  
hph
Gearhead
Thread Starter
 
hph's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2023
Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA
Posts: 39

Bikes: 2022 Trek FX2 Disc Viper Red, 1967 Phillips Road Bike w/ S-A 3-speed, a couple parts or flip bikes

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 8 Posts
Are these pedals rebuildable?

I know old pedals a lot of times you can rebuild old pedals by unscrewing the nut on the end, but this doesn't seem like it would unscrew. Do you pry/pull it off, or is it just not meant to be disassembled?

If I can't disassemble, what's the suggested way to grease them up?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
IMG_0121.jpg (760.5 KB, 199 views)
hph is offline  
Old 05-27-23, 09:09 PM
  #2  
Velo Mule
Senior Member
 
Velo Mule's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 2,109

Bikes: Trek 800 x 2, Schwinn Heavy Duti, Schwinn Traveler, Schwinn Le Tour Luxe, Schwinn Continental, Cannondale M400 and Lambert, Schwinn Super Sport

Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 809 Post(s)
Liked 1,022 Times in 665 Posts
That one is tough to tell from the picture. I would guess that the end cap may be threaded or pressed on. You could also stand the pedals so that the threaded part of the axle is pointing upward and place a few drops of oil into the gap between the axle and the body. I've done this on the swaged Schwinn Approved pedals that are not easily rebuildable with good results.

Oh, I just noticed and should have known better that on these block pedals that the rubber blocks and the pedals are held together by 2 screws.
Velo Mule is offline  
Old 05-27-23, 09:45 PM
  #3  
nlerner
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,157
Mentioned: 481 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3810 Post(s)
Liked 6,692 Times in 2,611 Posts
Most likely the dust cap can be pried up with a thin bladed screwdriver.
nlerner is offline  
Old 05-28-23, 03:54 AM
  #4  
Prowler 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Near Pottstown, PA: 30 miles NW of Philadelphia
Posts: 2,186

Bikes: 2 Trek Mtn, Cannondale R600 road, 6 vintage road bikes

Mentioned: 83 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 472 Post(s)
Liked 1,028 Times in 404 Posts
Originally Posted by Velo Mule
. I would guess that the end cap may be threaded or pressed on. You could also stand the pedals so that the threaded part of the axle is pointing upward and place a few drops of oil into the gap between the axle and the body. I've done this on the swaged Schwinn Approved pedals that are not easily rebuildable with good results.
I’ve worked on a few too and most will not gracefully open up (vs destructively open). I’ve oiled them as told above which improves them but does not ensure the bearings are cleaned. But, probably suitable for purpose. Either those bikes will not be ridden or will be ridden very little. I doubt those vintage rubber block pedals ever see serious mileage.
Prowler is offline  
Old 05-28-23, 05:42 AM
  #5  
hph
Gearhead
Thread Starter
 
hph's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2023
Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA
Posts: 39

Bikes: 2022 Trek FX2 Disc Viper Red, 1967 Phillips Road Bike w/ S-A 3-speed, a couple parts or flip bikes

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 8 Posts
Originally Posted by Velo Mule
That one is tough to tell from the picture. I would guess that the end cap may be threaded or pressed on. You could also stand the pedals so that the threaded part of the axle is pointing upward and place a few drops of oil into the gap between the axle and the body. I've done this on the swaged Schwinn Approved pedals that are not easily rebuildable with good results.

Oh, I just noticed and should have known better that on these block pedals that the rubber blocks and the pedals are held together by 2 screws.
That's what i thought was odd, they are screwed on yet i can't pull the assembly apart.

I'll see if I can pry the cap off somehow.
hph is offline  
Old 05-28-23, 07:45 AM
  #6  
RustyJames 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 1,435

Bikes: You had me at rusty and Italian!!

Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 566 Post(s)
Liked 1,048 Times in 543 Posts
The relevant view is the outside end of the pedal. If there are Phillips or slotted heads on the screws that run through the rubber blocks and nuts on the other end, which would be the crank side, then yes, you can remove the nuts and tap the screws out from the crank side. The end-cap is one large stamping and will come off exposing the end of the spindle and you are on your way.
RustyJames is offline  
Old 05-28-23, 08:00 AM
  #7  
Chuck M 
Happy With My Bikes
 
Chuck M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 2,186

Bikes: Hi-Ten bike boomers, a Trek Domane and some projects

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 884 Post(s)
Liked 2,307 Times in 1,117 Posts
Originally Posted by RustyJames
you can remove the nuts and tap the screws out from the crank side.
This is what I thought. The picture looks like the nuts are already removed, the screws just need tapped out and perhaps the OP is being too gentle with it.

I would suggest doing this over a pan or tray to catch any balls or such that may go falling about.
__________________
"It is the unknown around the corner that turns my wheels." -- Heinz Stücke

Chuck M is offline  
Old 05-28-23, 02:04 PM
  #8  
hph
Gearhead
Thread Starter
 
hph's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2023
Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA
Posts: 39

Bikes: 2022 Trek FX2 Disc Viper Red, 1967 Phillips Road Bike w/ S-A 3-speed, a couple parts or flip bikes

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 8 Posts
Originally Posted by RustyJames
The relevant view is the outside end of the pedal. If there are Phillips or slotted heads on the screws that run through the rubber blocks and nuts on the other end, which would be the crank side, then yes, you can remove the nuts and tap the screws out from the crank side. The end-cap is one large stamping and will come off exposing the end of the spindle and you are on your way.
There's not screw heads. Not sure if they're carriage bolts, or somehow fixed in place. I'll tap them a bit harder and let you know.
hph is offline  
Old 05-29-23, 07:53 AM
  #9  
RustyJames 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 1,435

Bikes: You had me at rusty and Italian!!

Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 566 Post(s)
Liked 1,048 Times in 543 Posts
hph It’s been a bit but I seem to recall that under the head it was like a carriage bolt or there was fluting and those screws in there fairly tight. (Trying to keep the rubber from rotating?)

I’ll see if I have something I can tear down and post pics for reference. I feel like I’ve posted something here before.
RustyJames is offline  
Likes For RustyJames:
Old 05-29-23, 08:00 AM
  #10  
hph
Gearhead
Thread Starter
 
hph's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2023
Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA
Posts: 39

Bikes: 2022 Trek FX2 Disc Viper Red, 1967 Phillips Road Bike w/ S-A 3-speed, a couple parts or flip bikes

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 8 Posts
@RustyJames
Update: turns out the caps were not that hard to just pry off. I figured they should be repairable because of the screw bolts used implied the ability to disassemble... usually if some part is disassembleable then it all will be.

As a note, you should mark the orientation of the carriage bolts before removal otherwise you'll never get them back in without oversizing the hole by a fraction. Of course, if you don't want to clean the pedal, you don't need to remove them.

Images:
- Pry point. (If you don't have an extended tip 45° needle nose, you don't know what you're missing. They are endlessly useful.)
- Jam nut (washer and cone nut underneath).
- Old vs. rebuilt.
- Bearings on the second pedal. You can see why they needed rebuilt! Of note, the "ring" in the 4th picture is just hardened grease. There was actually an extra blob under the cover, and even though that grease had obviously never been used, it still had the consistency of beeswax.

Here is a before/after video with the left vs. right pedal. Originally both as dirty and stiff as the left.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
IMG_0123.jpg (585.5 KB, 51 views)
File Type: jpg
IMG_0125.jpg (548.5 KB, 51 views)
File Type: jpg
IMG_0127.jpg (952.0 KB, 51 views)
File Type: jpg
IMG_0130.jpg (614.4 KB, 51 views)
File Type: jpg
IMG_0131.jpg (615.7 KB, 51 views)

Last edited by hph; 05-29-23 at 08:04 AM.
hph is offline  
Likes For hph:
Old 05-29-23, 08:09 AM
  #11  
RustyJames 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 1,435

Bikes: You had me at rusty and Italian!!

Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 566 Post(s)
Liked 1,048 Times in 543 Posts
There you go!

A thread from the past that may not be specific to your situation but….

overhaul-instructions-mks-3000s-3000r.html
RustyJames is offline  
Old 05-29-23, 12:37 PM
  #12  
hph
Gearhead
Thread Starter
 
hph's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2023
Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA
Posts: 39

Bikes: 2022 Trek FX2 Disc Viper Red, 1967 Phillips Road Bike w/ S-A 3-speed, a couple parts or flip bikes

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 8 Posts
It's pretty similar. For the bearing races generally you're gonna have one half stamped in the same metal, and the other half attached. Just a game of which is which. Originally I thought mine would come apart like his, but of course learned later that it's the opposite.

Here's a picture of how the bike is coming along! I invite you to check out my main project blog here: https://www.bikeforums.net/blogger-s...back-road.html
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
IMG_0144.jpg (1.90 MB, 38 views)
hph is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.