Fork upgrade/rebuild/compatibility??
02-06-21, 11:18 PM
#26
Senior Member
I'm relatively sold on coil rear shocks for a lot of trail bikes. Shocks are driven by complex linkages that usually create a progressive leverage rate. On a fork the primary concern is that spring is driven linearly with travel and so the very linear nature of a coil fork means that there's a tendency to blow through travel and have a harsh bottom out. The Ribbon Coil forks do have a ramp control for bottom out feel, however the fork may feel less supported pumping through corners than a air sprung fork, although careful compression tuning could help. Might feel really nice if you mostly don't go too deep in your travel and want something really supple. It's a matter of taste, mostly.
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02-09-21, 12:03 PM
#27
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I'm relatively sold on coil rear shocks for a lot of trail bikes. Shocks are driven by complex linkages that usually create a progressive leverage rate. On a fork the primary concern is that spring is driven linearly with travel and so the very linear nature of a coil fork means that there's a tendency to blow through travel and have a harsh bottom out. The Ribbon Coil forks do have a ramp control for bottom out feel, however the fork may feel less supported pumping through corners than a air sprung fork, although careful compression tuning could help. Might feel really nice if you mostly don't go too deep in your travel and want something really supple. It's a matter of taste, mostly.
What you say makes perfect sense though, I think I might like it, I currently only ride a rigid bike so I am used to unloading my front end over the rough stuff and I don't do "big hits"
Last edited by davei1980; 02-09-21 at 12:11 PM.
02-09-21, 05:36 PM
#28
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I would not buy a low end fork with the plan to upgrade it.
However, sometimes just buying an older high end fork and doing a rebuild will get you a very nice fork for not a lot of money.
A few years ago I paid $220 for a 2013 Lyrik DPA. For $60 in service kit parts and some fluids, I had a functionally like-new fork that cost over $900 new.
Main thing is to be sure the lower leg bushings are not shot. Also needs to have the right standards for what you are working with (steer tube, axle size, etc)
However, sometimes just buying an older high end fork and doing a rebuild will get you a very nice fork for not a lot of money.
A few years ago I paid $220 for a 2013 Lyrik DPA. For $60 in service kit parts and some fluids, I had a functionally like-new fork that cost over $900 new.
Main thing is to be sure the lower leg bushings are not shot. Also needs to have the right standards for what you are working with (steer tube, axle size, etc)
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02-09-21, 05:39 PM
#29
Senior Member
NONE of this makes any sane economic sense if you have to pay anyone else to do pretty much any of the work. You'll need to invest at least a little in appropriate tooling to do any of this, although it's not necessarily that bad depending on the exact fork. Should probably get the right dust seal press, some good circlip pliars, maybe need a damper bleed kit, some Knipex flat pliars are useful for many of the thin, flat wrench surfaces if you don't have specific tools, etc.
02-10-21, 10:55 AM
#30
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I would not buy a low end fork with the plan to upgrade it.
However, sometimes just buying an older high end fork and doing a rebuild will get you a very nice fork for not a lot of money.
A few years ago I paid $220 for a 2013 Lyrik DPA. For $60 in service kit parts and some fluids, I had a functionally like-new fork that cost over $900 new.
Main thing is to be sure the lower leg bushings are not shot. Also needs to have the right standards for what you are working with (steer tube, axle size, etc)
However, sometimes just buying an older high end fork and doing a rebuild will get you a very nice fork for not a lot of money.
A few years ago I paid $220 for a 2013 Lyrik DPA. For $60 in service kit parts and some fluids, I had a functionally like-new fork that cost over $900 new.
Main thing is to be sure the lower leg bushings are not shot. Also needs to have the right standards for what you are working with (steer tube, axle size, etc)
02-10-21, 11:43 AM
#31
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With all the Rock Shox forks I have rebuilt (Pike, Reba, Lyrik) the only special tools I needed are snap ring pliers (small and large tipped). A large socket (24mm I think) is nice for the top caps, but a crescent wrench works. The large tipped (0.09" / 2.3mm) snap ring pliers are the only tool that I need to look around on-line for (HD / Lowes did not have them).
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