How do I remove a freewheel if the tool doesn’t fit over the axle nut?
05-03-21, 03:40 AM
#26
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Cut off the nut to liberate the cone. Ordered a new axle as the threads were messed up on the old one. In hindsight, the best solution (in my case) would have been pushing out the axle after removing the nuts from the ND side. Had I remembered that the dustcap was separate from the cone I would have pushed it harder. I thought they were a unit and the cap is blocked by freewheel. Then the drive side lock nut could be dealt with using something like this. Big fiasco, a lesson learned. Hopefully I won’t mess up the new one.
Again, thanks to all who chimed in with suggestions!
Again, thanks to all who chimed in with suggestions!
1. strip the new cones, washers, and locknuts off the new axle.
2. put enough bits off the old axle onto the new one so that you can put it in the hub with some balls. Any condition cups and balls will do, they don't need to be clean or greased or even properly adjusted, just get them so the wheel will turn on the axle. You need at least a cone and locknut on the freewheel side, and at least a cone (another locknut would help) on the other side.
3. mount your tool in a vice and drop the wheel on it and remove the freewheel; or if attempting this without a vice, add another nut to hold the tool from pooping out.
4. remove new-axle-with-old-bits, clean and lube hub, install new axle (adding another locknut on drive side cone if it's missing), replace freewheel.
05-03-21, 05:56 AM
#27
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Whenever I re-do an axle the freewheel comes off before dealing with cones and such, and it goes on last when they're done....
4. remove new-axle-with-old-bits, clean and lube hub, install new axle (adding another locknut on drive side cone if it's missing), replace* freewheel.
4. remove new-axle-with-old-bits, clean and lube hub, install new axle (adding another locknut on drive side cone if it's missing), replace* freewheel.
Since hihik has gone to this much work to service the hub, the freewheel deserves the same devotion. *I do realize that "replace" can mean "reinstall." But it can also mean "scrap" or "dispose of."
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Bob
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Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
05-03-21, 03:47 PM
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05-03-21, 04:20 PM
#30
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Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
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Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
05-03-21, 04:35 PM
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If you have a Park Tools remover that does not fit over axle locknuts, you can actually thin down the removal wall by using a Dremel with a drum shaped grinding tip. I did it on mine and it now fits over Campy Record axle locknuts. It does not take that much time/effort to thin down the remover wall with the Dremel, as there isn't really that much material you need to remove to make the remover fit over the locknuts.
05-03-21, 05:14 PM
#32
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If you have a Park Tools remover that does not fit over axle locknuts, you can actually thin down the removal wall by using a Dremel with a drum shaped grinding tip. I did it on mine and it now fits over Campy Record axle locknuts. It does not take that much time/effort to thin down the remover wall with the Dremel, as there isn't really that much material you need to remove to make the remover fit over the locknuts.
I feel like every vintage bike restorer should have a 1" and 15/16" hone for seat tubes and maybe head tubes. 150, 300 and 600 grit if you can afford it. You'd probably need something somewhat smaller for these freewheel tools.
I have that FW tool from Bicycle Research. It's cast and hardened. Doubt anything will be thinning the wall of it.
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