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Rohloff, yeah, nah, yeah, nah.

Old 06-17-17, 09:12 AM
  #26  
spinnaker
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I had a couple of tourers staying with me that like them a lot. They actually had them given to them as they were on an around the world ride for "charity".

They way I see it is they are pretty much bullet proof and rarely does something go wrong. The problem is when something does go wrong you are pretty much screwed.

A traditional derailleur while fragile can at least be rigged till you get to a bike shop for replacement. Try and find a Rohloff at a tiny bike shop in Podudunk, Iowa.

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Old 06-17-17, 10:56 AM
  #27  
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break a belt drive piece, and you sit there until spares shipped..



Campagnolo drivetrain failures also force you to stay, eat and drink here for a few days..



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Old 06-17-17, 11:32 AM
  #28  
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There are a few types of "showstopper" breaks that can happen on a tour. Based on the reports and reputation of the Rohloff, I think that's one of the less likely failures. Doesn't mean it couldn't happen. But I think I'd be comfortable playing the odds on that. As it stands now, with my Alfine, I have 2 wheels, so I guess if I had a hub failure, I could have my spare shipped out. But really, in my years of riding hub gears, there was only one failure that I couldn't have limped along on, when my freewheel mechanism broke, and no power was being transferred to the hub. I've seen something similar happen with a gear cluster, so I guess that's not unique to hub gears, either. But even with a complete hub failure, there's always the possibility of converting to another drivetrain.
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Old 06-17-17, 12:53 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Rob_E
There are a few types of "showstopper" breaks that can happen on a tour. Based on the reports and reputation of the Rohloff, I think that's one of the less likely failures. Doesn't mean it couldn't happen. But I think I'd be comfortable playing the odds on that. As it stands now, with my Alfine, I have 2 wheels, so I guess if I had a hub failure, I could have my spare shipped out. But really, in my years of riding hub gears, there was only one failure that I couldn't have limped along on, when my freewheel mechanism broke, and no power was being transferred to the hub. I've seen something similar happen with a gear cluster, so I guess that's not unique to hub gears, either. But even with a complete hub failure, there's always the possibility of converting to another drivetrain.

"Shipped out"? Fine if you are on an extended tour with a flexible schedule. If you are on a one or two week tour, your tour is over.

Sure a lot of crap can go wrong on a conventional touring bike but it can be fixed at the next town with a bike shop. Worse case I rely on the kindness of strangers and get a lift to the next town where I can get repairs.
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Old 06-17-17, 01:05 PM
  #30  
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Hub shell flange spoke tear outs were on users of the 32 spoke hub shells on Tandems touring like, Peru.

now they make a 36 hole hubshell, (to build 3 cross) and these , for those headed way off the beaten track.

https://www.rohloff.de/en/products/s...ngs/index.html
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Old 06-17-17, 01:35 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by spinnaker
"Shipped out"? Fine if you are on an extended tour with a flexible schedule. If you are on a one or two week tour, your tour is over.

Sure a lot of crap can go wrong on a conventional touring bike but it can be fixed at the next town with a bike shop. Worse case I rely on the kindness of strangers and get a lift to the next town where I can get repairs.
True enough. Of course if you don't have time to wait, it takes little time to replace the Rohloff wheel with one with standard gearing. I would never encourage anyone to use a hub gear if they didn't see the value in it. But every time it comes up, this idea that a hub gear will end your tour comes up, and I've yet to read any accounts where that has happened. It probably has happened. Tacoed wheels have likely happened. Broken frames have likely happened. But at some point you weigh your own gear preference against the likelihood of a failure. I've been riding hub gears almost exclusively for the last 10 years or so, not just when traveling, but pretty much everywhere I need to go. I suspect the people worried about being stranded are speaking hypothetically, not from experience, because my experience says it's pretty unlikely.
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Old 06-17-17, 03:22 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Rob_E
There are a few types of "showstopper" breaks that can happen on a tour. Based on the reports and reputation of the Rohloff, I think that's one of the less likely failures. Doesn't mean it couldn't happen. But I think I'd be comfortable playing the odds on that. As it stands now, with my Alfine, I have 2 wheels, so I guess if I had a hub failure, I could have my spare shipped out. But really, in my years of riding hub gears, there was only one failure that I couldn't have limped along on, when my freewheel mechanism broke, and no power was being transferred to the hub. I've seen something similar happen with a gear cluster, so I guess that's not unique to hub gears, either. But even with a complete hub failure, there's always the possibility of converting to another drivetrain.
I do not recall where I saw this, but somewhere I remember reading that the Rohloff that is set up for disc brake could have a chainring (I do not remember BCD) installed on the disc part of the hub with the disc bolts. Thus, you could convert your Rohloff into a single speed if you had that spare chainring. I never looked into it because my Rohloff is the rim brake version.

Originally Posted by fietsbob
Hub shell flange spoke tear outs were on users of the 32 spoke hub shells on Tandems touring like, Peru.

now they make a 36 hole hubshell, (to build 3 cross) and these , for those headed way off the beaten track.
...
You have commented before that 3 cross is ok and I think you said that your hub was 3 cross, but Rohloff specifically recommends 2 cross and not 3 cross for 26 inch or 700c wheels. I do not know if 3 cross would violate the warranty, but I see no reason to use 3 cross. My hub is a 2 cross 36 hole.
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Old 06-17-17, 07:46 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
break a belt drive piece, and you sit there until spares shipped..


Campagnolo drivetrain failures also force you to stay, eat and drink here for a few days..

Belt itself weighs only about 100 g so carrying a spare would be easy insurance. Wrecking a sprocket could happen I guess but seems unlikely. Campy stuff can break but overall it was the most dependable brand I've used (apart from Phil Wood), wish they'd make a real trekking groupset.
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Old 06-18-17, 12:36 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Rob_E
True enough. Of course if you don't have time to wait, it takes little time to replace the Rohloff wheel with one with standard gearing. I would never encourage anyone to use a hub gear if they didn't see the value in it. But every time it comes up, this idea that a hub gear will end your tour comes up, and I've yet to read any accounts where that has happened. It probably has happened. Tacoed wheels have likely happened. Broken frames have likely happened. But at some point you weigh your own gear preference against the likelihood of a failure. I've been riding hub gears almost exclusively for the last 10 years or so, not just when traveling, but pretty much everywhere I need to go. I suspect the people worried about being stranded are speaking hypothetically, not from experience, because my experience says it's pretty unlikely.
Here's a few examples of Rohloffs creating problems that ended tours or created long waits.

https://www.bikeforums.net/8409218-post17.html
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Old 06-18-17, 01:57 AM
  #35  
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So how many more 1000s of kilometres do I need to ride before this thing doesn't rob me of 15-20km/h downhill? And how do I change the grade of a hill so I don't need stupidly low gears?
I'm going to whack some 26+ fatties on and use it as a semi fat bike. Derailleurs for touring from now on.
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Old 06-18-17, 02:05 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by GamblerGORD53
DeFaileurs ? WTH are they??? I just sold my last one. Good Riddance, Bon Debarras. Pffft
Impossible to clean, fix or use. Just yesterday I was watching a video of 3 randoneur race bikes in Quebec. One of them suddenly got chain suck. LOL Busted hangers?? NO thanks. More efficient ?? NOT
My Rohloff has 11,000 miles now, 4,200 pushing 120 lbs+ in SE Asia. Every morning just go find drinks and ride. Mostly 13.5 or 14 mph. 22 to 116 GI, Not Rohloff's fault so many want stupidly low gears. Only motor bikes were passing me. I passed them going downhill 38 mph. ha Mine is getting faster all the time, doing centuries at home. My bike is weight almost 50/ 50. My White Ind AL chainring sucks tho. Still haven't touched the shifter, except for the slippery cover.

Yesterday I was puttering my 50 lb CCM SA 3 spd on a MUP behind 2 girls. Got to a steep hill where they were in their second lowest gear and I had 52 GI. LOL Stayed with them all the way up.
We can't all be legends, sorry.
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Old 06-18-17, 06:03 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by GamblerGORD53
DeFaileurs ? WTH are they??? I just sold my last one. Good Riddance, Bon Debarras. Pffft
Impossible to clean, fix or use.
Really? Wow I never had a problem with any of those. Good thing you have a Rohloff. What do you do for brake issues or god forbid you get a flat? End the tour?
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Old 06-18-17, 07:33 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN
I do not recall where I saw this, but somewhere I remember reading that the Rohloff that is set up for disc brake could have a chainring (I do not remember BCD) installed on the disc part of the hub with the disc bolts. Thus, you could convert your Rohloff into a single speed if you had that spare chainring. I never looked into it because my Rohloff is the rim brake version.



You have commented before that 3 cross is ok and I think you said that your hub was 3 cross, but Rohloff specifically recommends 2 cross and not 3 cross for 26 inch or 700c wheels. I do not know if 3 cross would violate the warranty, but I see no reason to use 3 cross. My hub is a 2 cross 36 hole.

My Koga 04, WTR Trekking bike came with it's 32 spoke hub laced 3 cross , but the builder got the key spoke wrong ,

so the pattern had the head in spoke , nearest the casing bolts on the left side, going directly over it,
rather than the one furthest away of the 2 holes, between those casing split bolts.. (a head out spoke would pass behind the hub flange)

3 cross in 32 is like 4 cross in 36, 1st cross is at the hub , is the opposing spoke going to the opposite side of the rim,
So compressing the aluminum between the 2 spokes, rather than a shearing force pulling towards the edge of the flange...

as it is with each less cross ... 2, 1, radial ..


[My pointing this out, the Koga Company in NL mailed spokes to re lace it 2 cross, but for extra rugged terrain of adventure touring
I can see the value of a lacing pattern making hub flange tear thru , very unlikely..







....

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Old 06-18-17, 07:38 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by spinnaker
Really? Wow I never had a problem with any of those. Good thing you have a Rohloff. What do you do for brake issues or god forbid you get a flat? End the tour?
What is a Flat ?? LOL ...Schwalbe Marathon Plus. 55 or 60,000 tire miles with 2 metal flats at home.
My SA dyno DRUM brake has 21,000 miles with just a bearing change at 17,000, the rear one is along for the ride. Drum brake works ALL the time, "IT is sooo heavy" LOL. Adjust the cable once a year, it has 3 years/ 15,000 miles on it. The rear rim caliper works lousy on a good day, clogs up and is useless on a bad day. Plus NO spokes breaking, lets see that with defailleur wheels. Dyad no eyelet rims for the win.

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Old 06-18-17, 11:58 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Trevtassie
...
I'm going to whack some 26+ fatties on and use it as a semi fat bike. Derailleurs for touring from now on.
Considering your thoughts on weight and rolling friction, that is probably a very good plan.

I commented above that I tour on both a Rohloff and on derailleur touring bikes. If all of my touring was on good quality pavement, I probably would do it all on derailleur. I find the Rohloff is best for me on rougher terrain. The only reason that I would want to use my Rohloff bike on an all pavement tour is because my Rohloff bike has S&S couplers, but that is unique to my situation and is not part of your decision making.
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Old 06-18-17, 05:37 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN
.... I find the Rohloff is best for me on rougher terrain. .. .
I bought one for the endless supply of gravel roads in the midwest. I thought it would handle the dust and dirt better. Probably not going too fast on the gravel anyway so what's a little extra weight? The fat tires are going to slow me down as well.
It dawned on that gravel roads are really like bike paths with slightly more traffic. I'm not constantly looking in my rear view mirror. I can listen to music without too much worry. It's nice.
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Old 06-24-17, 11:05 PM
  #42  
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29+ setup with a Rohloff/Gates combo. I'm not gonna win any races, but I'm just out there to enjoy the ride. If you're not looking to set any speed records, the tradeoff with durability and lack of drivetrain maintenance is pretty nice.
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Old 06-25-17, 07:01 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Mtroup
and lack of drivetrain maintenance is pretty nice.
Im always surprised more Rohlof folks dont use those nearly fully enclosed plastic systems available, can't recall the brand name, but it would be great, no dirt and whatnot getting on your chain, so your chain and sprockets would last much much longer.

this one:'

https://www.hebie.de/en/protection/ch...ainglider/350/

I recall that it rubs on the chain up front, which may be annoying, but I know touring people have used them and appreciate not having mud and stuff getting onto the chain, I can see the appeal especially if on dirt roads and in rain.

saw it first in a blog with a kiwi couple riding in south america

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Old 06-25-17, 07:39 AM
  #44  
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they, In Hebie chain glider company, don't have my Bike Friday's unique designs in mind ..

for small wheels my chainring is a 53t .. 26" wheel a 38t.. (that*, they provide for)16t hub cog on both..

*front plastic parts made for 38t and 42t..





.....
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Old 06-25-17, 10:43 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by djb
Im always surprised more Rohlof folks dont use those nearly fully enclosed plastic systems available, can't recall the brand name, but it would be great, no dirt and whatnot getting on your chain, so your chain and sprockets would last much much longer.

this one:'

Chainguard CHAINGLIDER 350 - Hebie. Since 1868 made in Bielefeld, Germany.

I recall that it rubs on the chain up front, which may be annoying, but I know touring people have used them and appreciate not having mud and stuff getting onto the chain, I can see the appeal especially if on dirt roads and in rain.

saw it first in a blog with a kiwi couple riding in south america
The people I have talked to that have the chainglider love them.

I am not sure if the new splined sprockets are a problem with the chain glider or not. They changed the chainline with the new splined sprockets and I think some frames will not work with them. There is also an optional slim splined carrier, that might work but I don't know.

I however do not want a chainglider. My Rohloff bike is S&S coupled and I don't want to add anything that complicates packing the bike. And, I run two different chainring sizes, higher gears for use around home when the bike is not loaded down and lower gears for hauling my camping load up steep hills. The chainglider needs one chainring size.

I already have pretty good chain life. If your chainline is set up well on an IGH bike, you will have much better chain life than a derailleur bike which has a different chainline for every gear. Sheldon does not say how much it is extended further if you do this, but I am sure that is part of why my chain life is pretty good.
https://sheldonbrown.com/chain-life.html
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Old 06-25-17, 11:45 AM
  #46  
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Enjoying my Rohloff

Originally Posted by Mtroup
29+ setup with a Rohloff/Gates combo. I'm not gonna win any races, but I'm just out there to enjoy the ride. If you're not looking to set any speed records, the tradeoff with durability and lack of drivetrain maintenance is pretty nice.
Yep. I just bought what I expect to be my last bike. It's a Gunnar Crosshairs w/Rohloff and will likely still be in great riding nick when I get past my riding years based on how long my previous bikes (with lesser components) lasted. Loving the shifting perfection, loving the spacing of the gears, loving the top and bottom end ratios, loving the low maintenance and always perfect chainline. Yes, it weighs more than my derailleur bikes, but the tradeoff is quite worthwhile for me in terms of riding enjoyment. I ride it to work and back, 30 miles/day.
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Old 06-25-17, 10:58 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN
The people I have talked to that have the chainglider love them.

I am not sure if the new splined sprockets are a problem with the chain glider or not. They changed the chainline with the new splined sprockets and I think some frames will not work with them. There is also an optional slim splined carrier, that might work but I don't know.

I however do not want a chainglider. My Rohloff bike is S&S coupled and I don't want to add anything that complicates packing the bike. And, I run two different chainring sizes, higher gears for use around home when the bike is not loaded down and lower gears for hauling my camping load up steep hills. The chainglider needs one chainring size.

I already have pretty good chain life. If your chainline is set up well on an IGH bike, you will have much better chain life than a derailleur bike which has a different chainline for every gear. Sheldon does not say how much it is extended further if you do this, but I am sure that is part of why my chain life is pretty good.
https://sheldonbrown.com/chain-life.html
I can understand your not wanting one for the two reasons, makes sense.
re chainline, I dunno, I've always more or less had pretty good chainlines using triples, with only using top half or less of cassette with large chainring, the main chunk of middle of casstte with mid ring, and the lower half with the small chainring.
I generally get a good 5000kms 3000miles out of my chains, but riding in mostly good conditions, not a lot of dirt/rain combo.

I very much see how a chain protector thingee would be really nice if you knew you'd be on dirt with rain a lot, it would just eliminate all the gunk ending up on your drivetrain.
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Old 06-26-17, 01:49 AM
  #48  
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I currently have two bikes equipped with Rohloff hubs. I picked up the second last week, so not a lot of time with that one. The first one has Gates Carbon Drive and I have had zero complaints or problems in well over 4k miles. I'm totally used to the noise now and it does get quieter after around 2k miles and an oil change or two.

Whoever mentioned the Hebie chainglider: I had one for a short stint before I moved over to the Gates. It is a clean option as well, just insure you open it once in a while and have a look at your chain. Just because it is "enclosed" doesn't mean water doesn't get in.

I always wanted a Rohloff bike, before owning one I had a few Alfine bikes. They kind of gave me a taste but I still wanted the daddy of all hubs.

Shawn
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Old 06-26-17, 03:00 AM
  #49  
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I'm also not a fan of the flakey change in low range. I would have thought I'd have the knack after a 5 week tour, but it still sometimes hangs in some kind of higher gear if I don't pretty well stop pedaling and time the shift perfectly. They are a nice bit of engineering, but they aren't the be all and end all, that's for sure.
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Old 06-26-17, 05:15 AM
  #50  
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Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.

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Originally Posted by djb
...
re chainline, I dunno, I've always more or less had pretty good chainlines using triples, with only using top half or less of cassette with large chainring, the main chunk of middle of casstte with mid ring, and the lower half with the small chainring.
I generally get a good 5000kms 3000miles out of my chains, ....
I think many if not most people are less careful about cross chaining than you and I. On my derailleur bikes with triples I use eight speed cassettes. I only use the six least cross chained gears on each chainring, thus my 24 speed bikes are effectively 18 speeds. But I regularly see people that are riding far more cross chained than that.

I have no clue what kind of chain life I get, I do not keep track of when I change chains. But I usually go a couple years before I change a chain. That excludes my winter chains that get exposed to road de-iceing chemicals that are highly corrosive.

Originally Posted by Trevtassie
I'm also not a fan of the flakey change in low range. I would have thought I'd have the knack after a 5 week tour, but it still sometimes hangs in some kind of higher gear if I don't pretty well stop pedaling and time the shift perfectly. They are a nice bit of engineering, but they aren't the be all and end all, that's for sure.
I started bicycling before index shifting existed and as a kid I rode a lot of miles on a Sturmey Archer 3 speed bike. Thus, I have always let up on the pedaling pressure when I shift gears whether it be a derailleur bike or an IGH. But if this is the first bike you have had where you had to let up on the pedal pressure before shifting, I can see how it is hard to get used to.
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