Vintage rims not compatible w/modern tires
#1
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Vintage rims not compatible w/modern tires
Question about vintage rims & tires. A number of times, I've found that with 70s 27" steel rims, modern tires will blow off the rim at 80/90 psi. I get that the older rims don't have much if any hook, but my question is how were tires different in 1975 from modern ones to prevent this from happening. Thicker wire bead? Are any modern tires suitable for these older rims?
Cheers
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Question about vintage rims & tires. A number of times, I've found that with 70s 27" steel rims, modern tires will blow off the rim at 80/90 psi. I get that the older rims don't have much if any hook, but my question is how were tires different in 1975 from modern ones to prevent this from happening. Thicker wire bead? Are any modern tires suitable for these older rims?
Cheers
Cheers
Blowoffs at 80 seem a little weird. This thread has a few members claiming 80 is fine, but it definitely depends on the tire/rim combo. Some tires fit much tighter than others. https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...edge-rims.html
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70s steel 27 inch rims.. tires were 1 1/4 inch. 60-70 pounds was high pressure. Nobody had a Schrader pump that went that high.
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Conti makes Super Sport wire beads that should stay on.
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Steel rims will require steel bead tires.
Expectation that one can go above 65-70psi... Variable. 90? NO.
Expectation that one can go above 65-70psi... Variable. 90? NO.
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I found a specific tire and rim combination that did not work together. Unfortunately, it is a matter of trial and error, and the tube extrusion scenario can happen several hours or even days after initial inflation. After 3 occurrences, checking my work ever more carefully on each iteration, I concluded the tire and rim were incompatible and moved on. Have had no problems with other tires on that particular rim model. The rim is a mid-70s Araya aluminum 27x1-1/4 and the tire is a 2009 vintage Forte something or other 27x1-1/4. Both items going strong today with no issues, combined with alternative counterparts. I do believe the Forte tires are now mounted on rims with beads.
[edit]
In case there is any misunderstanding about the Forte tire, it is kevlar belted, but most definitely with a conventional steel bead.
[edit]
In case there is any misunderstanding about the Forte tire, it is kevlar belted, but most definitely with a conventional steel bead.
Last edited by old's'cool; 04-07-21 at 04:55 PM. Reason: kevlar clarification
#9
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IIRC a lot of those tires back then had "75psi max" molded right into the rubber.
There can be some tire variability as well. I remember a very cheap Japanese tire on some lower-end Matsuris that would never blow off at 75psi, but almost always blow off at 76psi+. We made Matsuri take them all back and give us Panaracer replacements.
There can be some tire variability as well. I remember a very cheap Japanese tire on some lower-end Matsuris that would never blow off at 75psi, but almost always blow off at 76psi+. We made Matsuri take them all back and give us Panaracer replacements.
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+1. Steel, non-hooked rims require tyres with rigid/steel beads. Even, then they could blow off if the tyres were not seated properly. Prior to hooked edge rims, checking for proper seating was a standard practice. Most tyres had a circumferential line molded into the tyre that would roughly align with the rim's outer edge, to aid in visual seating of the tyre. You would partially inflate the tyre, then check for proper seating. If it wasn't correct, you would deflate the tyre and re-seat it.
Tyres for 27" steel rims typically had a maximum pressure of 65-75 psi. Aluminum rims had a higher coefficient of friction with rubber and you could get away with higher pressure tyres on non-hooked versions of aluminum rims, though the tyres still had to be rigid bead versions. Using detergent when mounting tyres on steel rims decreased the co-efficient of friction and was typically a recipe for disaster, unless you were very careful with seating and waited for it to dry before inflating to full pressure.
Tyres for 27" steel rims typically had a maximum pressure of 65-75 psi. Aluminum rims had a higher coefficient of friction with rubber and you could get away with higher pressure tyres on non-hooked versions of aluminum rims, though the tyres still had to be rigid bead versions. Using detergent when mounting tyres on steel rims decreased the co-efficient of friction and was typically a recipe for disaster, unless you were very careful with seating and waited for it to dry before inflating to full pressure.
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+1. Steel, non-hooked rims require tyres with rigid/steel beads. Even, then they could blow off if the tyres were not seated properly. Prior to hooked edge rims, checking for proper seating was a standard practice. Most tyres had a circumferential line molded into the tyre that would roughly align with the rim's outer edge, to aid in visual seating of the tyre. You would partially inflate the tyre, then check for proper seating. If it wasn't correct, you would deflate the tyre and re-seat it.
Tyres for 27" steel rims typically had a maximum pressure of 65-75 psi. Aluminum rims had a higher coefficient of friction with rubber and you could get away with higher pressure tyres on non-hooked versions of aluminum rims, though the tyres still had to be rigid bead versions. Using detergent when mounting tyres on steel rims decreased the co-efficient of friction and was typically a recipe for disaster, unless you were very careful with seating and waited for it to dry before inflating to full pressure.
Tyres for 27" steel rims typically had a maximum pressure of 65-75 psi. Aluminum rims had a higher coefficient of friction with rubber and you could get away with higher pressure tyres on non-hooked versions of aluminum rims, though the tyres still had to be rigid bead versions. Using detergent when mounting tyres on steel rims decreased the co-efficient of friction and was typically a recipe for disaster, unless you were very careful with seating and waited for it to dry before inflating to full pressure.
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#12
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Thanks for all the feedback. Looks like it boils down to compatibility, aka trial and error. 27 x 1 & 1/4 tires seem to vary quite a bit in their width. The fatter tires hold fairly well on non hooked steel rims even at 90 psi, where a narrower tire with same nominal dimensions will blow off at 80 psi. Cheers
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+1. Steel, non-hooked rims require tyres with rigid/steel beads. Even, then they could blow off if the tyres were not seated properly. Prior to hooked edge rims, checking for proper seating was a standard practice. Most tyres had a circumferential line molded into the tyre that would roughly align with the rim's outer edge, to aid in visual seating of the tyre. You would partially inflate the tyre, then check for proper seating. If it wasn't correct, you would deflate the tyre and re-seat it.
Tyres for 27" steel rims typically had a maximum pressure of 65-75 psi. Aluminum rims had a higher coefficient of friction with rubber and you could get away with higher pressure tyres on non-hooked versions of aluminum rims, though the tyres still had to be rigid bead versions. Using detergent when mounting tyres on steel w rims decreased the co-efficient of friction and was typically a recipe for disaster, unless you were very careful with seating and waited for it to dry before inflating to full pressure.
Tyres for 27" steel rims typically had a maximum pressure of 65-75 psi. Aluminum rims had a higher coefficient of friction with rubber and you could get away with higher pressure tyres on non-hooked versions of aluminum rims, though the tyres still had to be rigid bead versions. Using detergent when mounting tyres on steel w rims decreased the co-efficient of friction and was typically a recipe for disaster, unless you were very careful with seating and waited for it to dry before inflating to full pressure.
With hooked rims.
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guess what I tried to put as a acronym meaning usual method starting with S
Last edited by old's'cool; 04-07-21 at 05:06 PM. Reason: MF BF did not like all uppercase so I had to insert not spaces, but effing line breaks, which didn't even work, so screw it
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For a 27 x 1 1/4" tire (nominal 32 mm width), unless you weigh 250 lbs or more you really don't need to inflate beyond 70 or 80 psi anyway.
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Was the blowoff happening with rims that were completely hook-free? "Hookless" were common back in the day. They were never intended for high pressures. Hooked rims should be fine at high pressures with folding or wire beads. I don't recall if folding bead tires work with hookless rims. Someone will come along and give info on that.
Blowoffs at 80 seem a little weird. This thread has a few members claiming 80 is fine, but it definitely depends on the tire/rim combo. Some tires fit much tighter than others. https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...edge-rims.html
Blowoffs at 80 seem a little weird. This thread has a few members claiming 80 is fine, but it definitely depends on the tire/rim combo. Some tires fit much tighter than others. https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...edge-rims.html
70 or 80 psi is not the limit for that tire technology on a hookless rim. It may be a valid limit for hooked tires on a hookless rim.. And the original Dunlop tires were marked as High Pressure good to 90 psi as well.
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I think this is not quite true. I have an old 27" Rudge with 27x1 ¼" Dunlop Special Lightweight rims with no hooks in the rims. "Old" here means 1952. The tires are modern Specialized RoadSport wire-bead, proper size. In installation, the wire bead fits tightly on the rim pressing the bead into the inner rim. With a good rim strip this creates a pretty seamless base for the tube. The tube, when inflated, presses the tire bead even tighter into the inner rim surface. I don't have a vintage tire to test it with, but with the modern Specialized, I filled it up to 90 psi (marked limit of the tire), rode it about 5 miles, put it away and left the wheels while I started the overhaul.. Several months late, still good pressure.
70 or 80 psi is not the limit for that tire technology on a hookless rim. It may be a valid limit for hooked tires on a hookless rim.. And the original Dunlop tires were marked as High Pressure good to 90 psi as well.
70 or 80 psi is not the limit for that tire technology on a hookless rim. It may be a valid limit for hooked tires on a hookless rim.. And the original Dunlop tires were marked as High Pressure good to 90 psi as well.
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francis1 There is a thread, I think it's a sticky, on what is available in 27x1 ¼" tires, also known in modern times as 630 x 32 mm. If you have a non-hooked rim, you need to determine if the tire you are looking at is wire bead. It used to be that the tire and rim were both marked "27 x 1 ¼ inch," indicating they are designed to match. This is the case with my Dunlop rim and the Specialized tire. I'm looking for a set of wire bead 32 mm 630 mm Paselas for my old Rudge - I think that will be a pretty decent ride. I assume that if the Specialized engineers knew that these markings were supposed to indicate a match, then the Panaracer/Pasela engineers have the same understanding and competency. The Specialized Road Sport has ever appearance and feel of being a nice tire, but it weighs about 550 grams each where original Paselas and the Tserv variant are much less massive. I've only ridden about 5 miles on the original Rudge wheels, but I can feel the weight.
alo Where is your area, that all these used Japanese bikes are coming in? I think there are now so many new marketing designations of bike tire sizes in the USA that I tend to doubt tire designations any more. "630" is clear and specific as far as the bead seat diameter, but it doesn't say what the bead/inner rim design is.
alo Where is your area, that all these used Japanese bikes are coming in? I think there are now so many new marketing designations of bike tire sizes in the USA that I tend to doubt tire designations any more. "630" is clear and specific as far as the bead seat diameter, but it doesn't say what the bead/inner rim design is.