Anyone else NOT have “upgrade-it is”?
#26
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#27
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My good bikes are going to get a big change but is it an upgrade? The Open Pro and Velocity rims rolling on G+ tires are coming off and old Mavic GP4s and 330s are going on with suitable (tubular) rubber. This isn't happening overnight but I'm starting to stockpile the parts.
This is to 1) - this is the driving reason - I want to ride rubber that cannot come off the rim even if I blow a tire. I want to be able to descend and not have the "what if" going through my mind. (I've blown out a clincher and have the tire come off at 25 mph. I've also blown out tubulars at 45+. Never want to do that clincher experience again, even at just 25. Blowing a tubular at 45 was such a non-issue that I cannot remember if it was a front or rear.)
And 2) the bike of my logo photo really wants race rubber. First time I rode that bike, it was obvious, "this is a late '80s race bike except fix gear; a bike of an alternative world where the freewheel was never invented". 20,000 miles later, I still get reminded every time I ride it. But I've never given it wheels remotely the weight of even the wheels I used to train on 40 years ago.
This is to 1) - this is the driving reason - I want to ride rubber that cannot come off the rim even if I blow a tire. I want to be able to descend and not have the "what if" going through my mind. (I've blown out a clincher and have the tire come off at 25 mph. I've also blown out tubulars at 45+. Never want to do that clincher experience again, even at just 25. Blowing a tubular at 45 was such a non-issue that I cannot remember if it was a front or rear.)
And 2) the bike of my logo photo really wants race rubber. First time I rode that bike, it was obvious, "this is a late '80s race bike except fix gear; a bike of an alternative world where the freewheel was never invented". 20,000 miles later, I still get reminded every time I ride it. But I've never given it wheels remotely the weight of even the wheels I used to train on 40 years ago.
#28
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Virtually everything I buy are either a used bike, or used parts and frames. I might even look at a complete (used) bike as a collection of parts. And, build it to suit. So, once I have my bike built, it is more maintenance than upgrading.
#29
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I just buy the frame and build it how I want so I don't feel the need to upgrade later.
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#30
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I only tend to upgrade by buying a new complete bike. I rarely upgrade an existing bike, although I have done occasionally in the past. Usual stuff like wheels, drivetrain, bars, etc. I have no plans to upgrade anything on my current bikes.
#31
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Does not upgrade mean N+1 ?
Also, plenty of very nice used bikes for the next N
Also, plenty of very nice used bikes for the next N
#32
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I’m starting this thread as an alternative to the sort of threads that go: “Just got a brand new <insert brand and model>, what should I upgrade first?”
My previous bike was a 2018 Trek Domane ALR 5, which I never upgraded in any way and was really happy with it. Unfortunately, it was recently destroyed when I was struck by a car.
I was lucky enough to find a 2022 Domane SL5 in my size and don’t see any reason why I’d want to upgrade it, either.
So, are there any other riders that don’t have upgrade-itis? 😊
My previous bike was a 2018 Trek Domane ALR 5, which I never upgraded in any way and was really happy with it. Unfortunately, it was recently destroyed when I was struck by a car.
I was lucky enough to find a 2022 Domane SL5 in my size and don’t see any reason why I’d want to upgrade it, either.
So, are there any other riders that don’t have upgrade-itis? 😊
I dont have a desire to upgrade any of my road bikes, but it is largely moot because they are all 2x11sp rim brake, so upgrading the drivetrains is largely not possible moving forward. I will just stick with the 11sp mechanical Ultegra and 11sp mechanical 105 since I like how they work.
I dont consider changing out tires or tape to be upgrades. Heck, changing out a stem or bars isnt really an upgrade if it is done to improve fit.
#33
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I'm very particular and detail oriented, so any change usually means far more tinkering and dialing in than most people, and quite frankly, I don't enjoy that process whatsoever. I enjoy things the most when I'm finally done messing with them and they've proven themselves out. That said I ride a 2017 Colnago CR-S with zero plans to change for the foreseeable future, though I did upgrade the calipers to 5800 at time of purchase because the entire bike was 5800 otherwise(down to chain and cassette), and then upgraded the boat anchors to Zondas. The amount of tinkering I did with the brakes afterwards between brake lever reach and getting the calipers set just right given the reduced brake lever reach and getting them perfectly centered? Weeks. Granted, some of that was due to only after much tinkering finally finding out that the shop under torqued the calipers to the frame and they kept moving. High end shop so wasn't expecting that and took me a long time to finally check the torque spec.
While I'd like an aero/integrated bar, my OCD can't handle how much work that would be to finally get flawlessly setup...so I just don't.
While I'd like an aero/integrated bar, my OCD can't handle how much work that would be to finally get flawlessly setup...so I just don't.
#35
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I blame it on the previous owner.
My 1957 Carlton was upgraded before my time from steel cottered Williams cranks to 1961 aluminum, square tapered T.A. cranks...
So I felt compelled to also upgrade the Simplex derailleurs to 1961 spec.
Brent
My 1957 Carlton was upgraded before my time from steel cottered Williams cranks to 1961 aluminum, square tapered T.A. cranks...
So I felt compelled to also upgrade the Simplex derailleurs to 1961 spec.
Brent
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#36
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#37
my nice bike is at home
My 'newest' most ridden bike, is a 2011 BMC, I still pass newer bike riders (and younger riders) disc brakes aren't going to make me faster, are they?
Carbon rims or lighter wheels might... and tubeless ! ...but I am not there yet. 2011 was a good year for bike technology.
Carbon rims or lighter wheels might... and tubeless ! ...but I am not there yet. 2011 was a good year for bike technology.
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BMC Race Machine / BMC Team Machine / Rossin Record / 80's Pinarello Traviso / Merlin MTB / Raleigh "Folding 20" / Ti-Swift (!)
Erikson w/C&C couplers / Trek's: 2300, 1200, 990 / Jamis 'Sputnik'
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Erikson w/C&C couplers / Trek's: 2300, 1200, 990 / Jamis 'Sputnik'
#38
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Does buying a cassette that is more suitable for my lack of power and my local terrain count as an upgrade?
After upgrading from the stock Mavic Aksium to Mavic Ksyrium Elite wheels, and replacing the handlebar and seat post with lighter and more compliant carbon fiber counterparts, I felt exactly the same way about my 2x11 Shimano 105 rim brake bike for a long time until two months ago, when I ordered a new CF wheelset which will be the final possible upgrade to this bike.
I am also extremely OCD but the constant tinkering and optimization is part of the fun for me.
Yeah, a fully integrated bar and stem with cables and hoses passing through the headset is a bridge too far even for all but the most inveterate tinkerers. That is why I am holding off on a new bike until the new 12 speed Ultegra groupset becomes more widely available, and I would still want the rear brake hose to enter the frame aft of the head tube.
I dont have a desire to upgrade any of my road bikes, but it is largely moot because they are all 2x11sp rim brake, so upgrading the drivetrains is largely not possible moving forward. I will just stick with the 11sp mechanical Ultegra and 11sp mechanical 105 since I like how they work.
Yeah, a fully integrated bar and stem with cables and hoses passing through the headset is a bridge too far even for all but the most inveterate tinkerers. That is why I am holding off on a new bike until the new 12 speed Ultegra groupset becomes more widely available, and I would still want the rear brake hose to enter the frame aft of the head tube.
#39
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I actually found the lack of adjustment helped with my OCD. No more worrying about whether or not I should rotate the bars slightly or play around with different stems.
#40
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Yes, and No. My '06 LeMond road bike is stock, with only wear and tear items replaced. But my ancient ('98 frame) GT mtn.bike doesn't have an original part left. Even the frame was a replacement for one on which I cracked a weld. My wife's LeMond is also stock except for wear and tear. Her 98 Kona Lava Dome is stock except for the front fork which I upgraded.
#41
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By this time, I'm usually looking for that next frameset to build up. But after building up my Lynskey Helix and a very underrated SBC 6061 all-road that was a budget build, I haven't had any urges to upgrade/replace any of these bikes. T
#42
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Many of my geezer mods could be considered downgrades...
Once I get a bike the way I like it, it tends to stay that way. Until then, however, changes are legit, even when "incorrect".
Once I get a bike the way I like it, it tends to stay that way. Until then, however, changes are legit, even when "incorrect".
#43
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