johnlink

What tool is needed to remove a Dura Ace FH-7400 freehub? Does it fit into the four notches (two of which are visible in the picture) or into the eight notches further into the hub?

johnlink

I learned that what's required is the TL-FH10 removal tool. I just bought a brand new one, in the bag, for $74.

Who says time travel is not possible?

francophile 

I was surprised Bicycle Research didn't have something.

For those of more meager means, this may also help, although it's not the same tool as the one above? Seems this goes into the upper two/four notches while the tool pictured goes into the lower notches:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/302099316296

Then there's always RJ the bike guy's innovation...

thumpism 

My packaging is not as pretty, but it's good to know what they can go for.
TL-FH10_1.JPG

TL-FH10_2.JPG

johnlink

What's that?

RJ the Bike Guy always seems to have a solution.

CliffordK

That should disassemble the freehub, but probably won't remove the retention bolt which appears to need some kind of a specialized torx style wrench.

One might try some larger Torx wrenches just to see if they fit, but someone probably chose to make it harder than necessary. Is that 9 point or 10 point?

johnlink

The TL-FH10 tool will remove the freehub.

It's eight.

Bianchigirll 

Bicycle Research is a company that used to make a wide variety of specialty bike tools, like freewheel removers, bottom bracket tools. It used to be if a manufacturer made something odd Bicycle Research would have a tool to work on it. I think this freehub body mounting system was too short lived for anyone but shipmano to make tools for it.

johnlink

Here's another one on eBay, this one with excellent pictures.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/TL-FH10-Fre...SsLqnuRIQsy8tQ

johnlink

Is this it? BicycleTool.com

Bianchigirll 

Yes I think that is them now.

francophile 

What BG ^ said. Hand-machined out of California, Bay Area if I recall correctly. They have some excellent remakes of Shimano tools no longer around, especially the old freewheel (not necessarily freehub) pullers

Link: BicycleTool.com

T-Mar

The tool with two prongs is designed to adjust/remove the bearing cup from the freehub. It does not remove the freehub body. Using it to remove the freehub body is analogous to using a pin tool on a freewheel dust shield/outer cone in an attempt to remove a freewheel from a hub. You're just going to end up with a lot of very small bearings escaping and rolling all over the place.

johnlink

Here are two videos from RJ the Bike Guy dealing with freehubs.

CliffordK

Well, remind me to avoid those DA freehubs.

Can the mounting bolt be replaced with standard Shimano mounting bolts?

Ghrumpy

If I may ask, why do you want to remove the freehub in the first place?

Ghrumpy

Cool. More for me. Those things are pretty bombproof (which is why I asked the OP why he wants to remove it.)

Nope. That's the only downside to them. They aren't future-proof because you can't retrofit a later freehub body. Well, you could put a 7s D-A freehub on a 6s D-A shell. But that's as far as it went.
That's how Dura-Ace rolled back then. Incompatible with everything but itself.

johnlink

I thought that my chain was skipping, but I eventually determined that it was my freehub that was skipping and not the chain. So I want to remove, clean, lube, and replace the freehub as shown in one of RJ the Bike Guy's video above.

Ex Pres 

there is a hack as an alternative to the correct tool. It was posted here a while ago. It involves a square bar of the right size and a file. I don't recall the exact details, though, but a search may yield the answer.

Kontact 

Dura Ace has always been incredibly undersupported by Shimano. Try finding a replacement 103mm Shimano BB for a 7410 crank or parts to rebuild a "serviceable" 7700 Octalink BB. They treat the group as a test bed, not a pro group.

Ghrumpy

You might just have to do it in situ. Spray some Triflow or equivalent into the gap between the bearing race and the freehub shell and spin it around. Flip it over and let it drain. Repeat a few times, then see if that helps. If you can hear a grinding instead of the pawls just clicking into place, the freehub might be toast.

Don't worry about greasing the inside of the freehub. I recommend you not do it at all. You could practically run it dry, in fact. The only time the freehub turns is when it has no load on it, so it's not like the hub bearings. A light machine oil is all it needs. Same for all freewheels, by the way.

This only applies to pawl-type mechanisms. Some freehubs use different mechanisms, like drive rings or plates. Some share the space with the hub bearings, and in those cases the above does not apply. Follow manufacturers' specs for those types of freehubs.

johnlink

I won't have to do so, because I bought the TL-FH10 removal tool on eBay today (see the pictures in post #2 above). On the other hand, it would have been good to do what you suggest below before I put the bike back together.

Ghrumpy

Cool, let us know how it goes.

BluesDaddy

This is why I stop at Ultegra. Dura Ace is too frequently incompatible. Most Shimano freehub bodies can be removed with a simple 10mm Allen.

rccardr 

No need to stop at Ultegra, although it is lovely in its own right. Just avoid 740X shifting components. Everything else is fully compatible with all Shimano SIS amd indexing components below ten speeds.