Maelochs

Having spent decades assembling bikes from other bikes picked from teh trash, to buying bikes at yard sales and upgrading them with parts from the trash and from other yard s-sale bikes, to upgrading yard-sale bikes with new parts, to upgrading new bikes, to assembling bikes entirely from new parts bought online ... I can say that No it is no longer possible to upgrade bikes economically----based on personal experience.

There was a glorious time when one could shop through mail-order (remember actual mail?) and online and find decent take-off or lightly used parts cheap, and new parts also fairly cheap. After a while .... somewhere between 2015 and 2018 in my experience) sellers started realizing that there were folks out there who would pay good money for good bike parts. Suddenly the online auctions had higher minimum bids, and even when they didn't, there were people who would pay a lot of money for parts---sometimes as much or more than a new aprt might cost---yo know how people get at auction---they want to win, and sometimes lose all sense of reason.

In any case, it got harder and harder to find anyone selling parts for reasonable prices.

Then Shimano changed its global pricing structure---I am sure many of us remember when one could buy Shimano parts retail from the UK for the same price US bike shops were paying wholesale. When those things changed .... building bikes was no longer an affordable hobby.

The upside---there are lots of almost certainly Shimano knock-offs selling for ridiculously low prices on Ali-Baba and such .... good luck with all that.

I used to be able to build an Ultegra-equipped lightweight CF bike, about 16 pounds, fully road-ready, for about $2000. Now the frames alone cost more than half that and the drive trains have doubled (at least) in cost. Right now that same bike would cost me $2300 or so without wheels, tires, cables, barrel adjusters, cockpit, saddle, bottom bracket, headset (some frames include the headset ... )

On top of that, I don't see a lot of "take-off" lower-tier parts (sub 105) --- I assume because people who buy bikes can do the same math I can---it costs more to buy the parts after the fact than to save up for the bike that has the parts .... and frankly, modern Sora is so good I doubt a lot of people are overly eager to upgrade. The more "serious" riders (define that any way you want) probably see 105 (and whatever the SRAM analogue might be) as the starting point, and don't mess with anything less ....

That is how (as best I can figure) bike shops and bike manufacturers want it. The manufacturers want buyers to buy bigger bikes up front because that is, obviously cash ... and the bike shops want people who want to upgrade bikes to have to buy their parts at bike shops, because again, that is cash. Only consumers want to be able to buy cheap parts online---and I don't think the upgrade market was all that big to begin with.

It seem s to me riders fall into a couple imprecise categories---"Buy and Ride" and "Tinker." The tinkerers it seems, are often racers on a budget or just people who want to ride hot-rods. The tinkerers will generally swap wheels--and spend small fortunes on them---as well as saddle and maybe cockpit parts, but they can see that economically it is wiser to upgrade and already hot bike with stuff like wheels than to build a bike from scratch (I say this having built enough to know .... )

The Buy-and-Ride crowd .... don't care enough about the stuff to do the research, spend the money, buy the tools and learn to use them .... which means that if they were to drop $800 on a group set they would then have to drop another several hundred on mechanic's fees .... and nobody wants to spend $1200 to upgrade a $1200 bike.

Of course, when I say "nobody" I don't mean that ... I have not interviewed every single person on the planet. I myself, if it were not for budget constraints (as well as time and health constraints which keep my from riding all the bikes I have already built and/or upgraded) would prefer to build a bike from scratch than buy one pre-built ... but the cost was never much lower than an equivalent bike new, and of course, the home-made bike had zero warranty .....

I put CF wheels on my Fuji, and that really changed the bike .... but I had a set of CF wheels which I had bought cheap a few years prior for an unfinished product. Since it came with 105, what would I really gain by going to Ultegra? Experience has taught me that functionally the two systems are almost identical. I suppose i could upgrade to electronic shifting, and use the old 105 on another bike .... But considering the cost of electronic shifting ... I suppose I could upgrade one of my other bikes to electronic as well ... but I cannot see where one extra cog and electronic shifting would add That much to my riding experience.

Even if the OP bought a Triban unless it had discs already ... I guess i would suggest 105 calipers .... that would be a cheap swap and I am sure they would be stiffer and better-built than whatever it cam with ... otherwise, what would he upgrade? If he could get Sora or Claris .... sure but look at the price differential.

Triban 100 with a cheesy seven-speed freewheel (https://www.decathlon.com/products/t...er-xl-u307028?) $599

Triban RC520 (https://www.decathlon.com/products/r...sc-105-rc-520?) with 105 and Microshift, with TRP Hy/RD mech-hydro brakes (https://www.decathlon.com/products/r...ct-information) $1,699.00

So let's visit Amazon ....... $125 for the crank set, $300 for the brifters (rim-brake brifter … not sure if they work with the HY/RD brakes), $55 for the cassette, $30 for the chain, $100 for the derailleurs, $25 for the bottom bracket …. $635 on Amazon---assuming it is all actually Shimano stuff … and the guy needs to be able to do his own work. And if the brifters don’t work with the brakes? I don’t know about all that.

On top of that, the 100 has a steel fork, while the 520 has a carbon fork with an aluminum steerer —but if you trust it, you can get a CF fork for $80 on Amazon … what could possibly go wrong?

Also, the 520 comes with Jagwire anti-compression brake cables—about $50 on Amazon. Now the bill is $765. And that is before shipping on each piece, another couple hundred. $30 for cables, $10 for barrel adjusters …. About $1000 to have all the parts delivered to your door. Hope you have the tools and expertise needed to install them.

Both bikes come with an Al frame listed at Four pounds.

Funny …. All that adds up to about $100 less than getting the already-assembled and warrantied bike.

On top of that the 520 has better wheels. The Triban 520 comes in a couple pounds heavier. The Triban 100 weighs 25 …. I assume due to the wheels and fork, as the frame is the same.

So … for about what it would cost to buy an assembled 520, with 105 and tubeless-ready wheels, you could Not upgrade a Triban 100 to the same levels as the 520.

On another hand, one can get a Giant Contend AR-3 with Sora, mech discs, CF fork and steerer, tubeless-ready wheels, for $1350 … it already works when you get it. The bike weighs about 22 pounds, according to online reviews. For $2000, you can get the AR-1, with 105, hydro discs, tubeless-ready wheels, at under 21 pounds. (https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/contend-ar-3-2021)

No way you could get the Triban 100 to be as good a bike. Not for any money

And …. I’d bet, for a beginning rider, the Triban 520 or the Giant Contend would be completely satisfactory bikes …. No need to upgrade.

Not saying I am “right,” but I have done this math many times, with my own money hanging in the balance ….

pdlamb

I agree with you, those halcyon days are gone.

I still disagree with you. If someone wants to get into cycling, and they have some money to spend, I maintain it's reasonable (not economical!) to buy a "low-end" Tribon (if they have $500) or Madone, or Diverge (if they have $2,000), and ride it all summer and fall -- and perhaps through the winter, depending on residence. If the buyer's been able to save that much more in the intervening time, they may decide to upgrade at that point. It doesn't have to be all at once, either; "new" wheels from the 'bay, perhaps, or better tires. Then repeat annuually.

Or course, the buyer runs the risk of getting hooked in that year or cycling. Then it begins to make sense to trade up, even if you're giving up half of the original bike's cost.

Broctoon

I would not recommend starting with a cheap bike and upgrading it. I've tried this at least a few times, and I ended up spending more money on the finished project than I would have spent on a nice bike to begin with.

If you want to acquire the tools and skills to fix up bikes, this approach will give you the impetus. But you can also do so while riding a nice bike that doesn't require a lot of work.

Fixing up bikes might be for you if you're more interested in working on them than riding them. It might be for you if you want to feel like you're being thrifty (although in reality you probably are not). It is not for someone who wants to end up with a nice bike and not take a lot of time and effort to get there.

thateling

i don't know if this reply reaches everybody in this thread but
i live in toronto /canada
my hight is 5'9
my budget is 500cad
if you can help finding me a road bike i'd be endlessly grateful

squirtdad

Hear are some

at 5' 9 you are sort of between 21" and 23" frames

in CM your probalby a 56cm but could make 54 to 58 work


Might be small at 54 but worth looking at fairly modern
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-road-bike/ci...ame/1656152416

look at this one
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-road-bike/oa...ike/1657437419

I kinda like this one
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-road-bike/os...ape/1660222224

steve bauer
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-road-bike/mi...ike/1660246191


https://www.kijiji.ca/v-road-bike/ci...ket/1660244717



https://www.kijiji.ca/v-road-bike/ci...1in/1660234681

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-road-bike/oa...ike/1655663964



https://www.kijiji.ca/v-road-bike/mi...ike/1660198978

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-road-bike/ci...ike/1660055344

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-road-bike/ci...ike/1659449370

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-road-bike/ci...ike/1658653314

The Chemist

They should work. I'm using Ultegra R8000 brifters on my Ti bike with cable actuated hydraulic brakes (not HY/RD, but another brand) and they work perfectly. I'd assume that all the flat-mount cable actuated hydraulic brakes available are designed for road brake cable pull specs.

AdventureManCO 

+1.

A decent knowledge of used bikes + decent basic mechanical skillset + waiting for a good deal + having some cash on hand = super dangerous

Many of the bikes I enjoy were between the $40-$100 range (some great quality, others...), and then I get the joy of the teardown and cleanup.

rc5781

https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/road_bikes.htm

Not affiliated...welcome meaningful criticism of their road bikes at their price points. I only have personal experience with their mountain bikes and am a return customer.

Maelochs

BikesDirect sells solid, reliable bicycles for less than the name brands. Usually the tech is a couple generations behind the times--they don't do R&D, they reverse-engineer established models and have their Chinese and Taiwanese manufacturers (the same ones making the big-name bikes) build to older secs.

Not for weight-weenies, because the last 80 grams hasn't been removed from the frame. Not for the fashion-conscious, because the names on the down tubes are defunct brands bought by Bikes Direct. Great bikes for people who want to ride bikes.

Basically with Bikes Direct you are buying a two- or three-year-old bike---whatever the big brands were selling three years ago---with brand-named and off-brand drive trains (not that FSA makes bad parts, but they are not Shimano or SRAM---and Tektro brakes are good, but not 105- or Ultegra-good---though with the shift to discs, I have no idea how the parts compare .... ) the bikes are reasonably well built---you will need to insert the seat, tighten the bars, and adjust the brakes and derailleurs, and I would recommend retensioning the wheels after a few rides---but once set up, the bikes are great. Really, the only thing they lack is any social cachet from the name on the down tube .... A lot of people will pay more for a "Specialized" than a "Dawes" even if the bikes are identical and the Dawes is ten percent cheaper.

thateling

can't attach photos as a newbie, but i bought the one on the first link. carbon jamis on 105 groupset. it's really light.
turned out 54 fits better than 56 for 5'9.
thank you a lot!

squirtdad

wow, super happy for you. and glad to help when when you get enough posts put up a pic....there are not enough bike pics in general forum

MaxKatt

———-

Did you ever see a really great looking “Fast & Furious” Toyota and think “man…that guy shoulda just bought a Porsche.”

veganbikes

The only trick to that is just joining in the forums there are a ton of active threads to get involved in. Since you took the time to get a an account here you might as well get involved in other threads. Once you get 10 total posts you can start posting pictures and links. Would love to see the bike.

Jamis makes a decent product but their bikes do run a bit larger for their sizes than others.

rsbob 

There is an axiom when buying a used classic car that is applicable. It goes, buy the best one (best condition) you can afford because if you don’t you will spend far more on parts trying to refurbish it. I ignored that axiom once and was bitten buying a bargain priced vehicle and then putting more more money into to getting it up to my level of expectation than buying a more expensive used one that needed nothing. Buying parts is not cheap.

Then there is the expression about putting lipstick on a pig. You may end up with a sexy looking pig, but it still is what it is.

mlau

Do you have a friend that's experienced in buying bikes?

I'd recommend getting fitted at a store with your buddy, and having them help you troll Craigslist and/or facebook for a good used bike.
I'd recommend getting something that is your size, preferably more comfort/enthusiast oriented in geometry, and that you like.

alcjphil

OP lives in Toronto. Bikesdirect does not ship to Canada, but even if they did, shipping, exchange and import charges would make this a $1300 CDN bike

Maelochs

of course I knew that ( ) I assumed you would buy it on his behalf and deliver it.

alcjphil

Did you notice where I live?

Maelochs

Well, obviously I assumed you would relocate first. Duh.

alcjphil

Why would you think I might do that? Not obvious to me

smd4

Do you even have a sense of humor? Or see the smiley face that might indicate something was not meant to be taken seriously?

Calsun

M any bikes are available on Craigslist and most are selling for less than 30% of their original cost to the owner. Any bike made in the past 20 years will have more than 10 speeds and combination brake/gear shifters and many will have disc brakes as well. These bikes can be resold in a year if they do not work out and no money lost in the process. If you buy a better seat/saddle for the bike it can be removed prior to reselling the bike and used on the next bike you buy.

Far more information on bikes now then when I started riding in the 1960's and far better bikes in general are available. No need to over complicate the matter. Spending $500 on a good used bike is not much of a gamble and 99% of any repairs are minor on bikes.

SW84

When I retired back in June I bought a Kent Shockpoint from a big box store for $180 (includes tax). I've had a great time upgrading the tubes, tires, seat, brake levers and pads, all for about $200. It rides great. I'm still considering changing the lateral pull brakes for cantilevers. I've learned a lot working on this cheapo bike, as well as my cheapo Schwinn World and Raleigh Eclipse CX.

e0richt

I feel that department store bikes are really not worth the money. with that being said, I did a step up by buying a very inexpensive road bike from bikes direct.
It has been pointed out to me that this is just one step above dept store bikes and I can't disagree but that step was a good one in my case.

I got a dawes lightning sport road bike, steel frame 36 spoke wheels with stem shifters which I ran with for quite awhile, eventually, I upgraded the bike with
new microshift brifters (great upgrade and very worth it). I am still riding that bike 20 years later and I have changed out the the normal stuff brake cables, shifter
cables but the only thing that has given me a problem in that time was the bottom bracket (after about 4000 miles, it started to creak so I got a new cartridge bottom
bracket and installed it...

I always find it interesting where someone tells me that the 70 $ for the shifters are not "worth it" because the bike was inexpensive but from my point of view...
I got a good bike (remember I am not competing in races) that I have taken on group / solo rides and I came out ahead in terms of cost. its been a few years, I may upgrade the brakes from the generic calipers to dual pivot calipers but that is because I would like to upgrade them... not because they have an issue.

can you get a better deal by buying used? yes and I have done that as well but I needed something of a certain quality that I could ride now and later found a good
inexpensive used trek 1220... they are both in my stable and I still like to ride them both switching between them.

CrowSeph

i've done twice, mostly on mountainbikes since is more than a secondary bike type.
I bought a trail 5 and slowly upgraded when the parts were worn out (except the wheels and fork, those two aprts i got a nice deal and by selling the old one i recovered the 60% of the upgrade price).
For me the search of the perfect upgrade is fun, and also i have to admit when i took my bike i had a very limited price range, now i'am happy with it since is completed. The only cons is that the frame is not boost but who cares, i've done 5k miles with this bike from 2021 and when i use i'am perfectly fine with it.

But a different pov is with my roadbike, i just waited the perfect opportunity and i got a bike that doesn't need any upgrade (i just swapped saddle and handlebars because i did not like the factory choise).

The best advice i can give you is start from a blank spot. Take a bike that don't break your bank and start using it, tuning it and elarning how every parts works.
Time by time every part need to be changed (drivetrain, saddlle etc) so you can focus on good upgrades, also those website that selling used stuff can help you out finding the right parts.

but most important, have fun!