kmerskine

During the pandemic I started restoring old bikes. Worthless pieces of junk that don't deserve the money I put into them and which some of you would scorn at even giving a second look. But I figured, hey, I'm not going to movies, not eating out much, not traveling or spending money on gasoline, so I'll spend my entertainment money on bike refurbs. Just finished my second one. And hey, at least I'm learning how to do restorations on the worthless pieces of junk, right? I'm posting this bike's story and pics here because this forum was so helpful to me when I was trying to figure crap out. I read countless dozens of posts on how to do this thing or that thing. So thanks to all the experts on here. This newbie learned a thing or two.

Anyway, this bike was a one-owner 1964 Schwinn Varsity. This kid bought it in 1964 when he was 14. His wife sold me the bike in February, 2021, shortly after her husband passed away. Picked it up in North Georgia. He got it from a Staten Island bike shop, according to the sticker on the seat tube. His wife confirmed that both he and she were born and raised there. I googled the shop - Bennett's Bikes - and it is still in business and they are sending me new seat tube stickers. I considered keeping the original color, radiant coppertone, but decided against that since I'm not really a purist and wanted a bike color scheme that would really pop (I know, I know, purists will be displeased). In an effort to get one of my teens interested in old bikes I took him to the paint shop and let him pick out the color.

So I blasted the frame and fork, had it powder coated, reconditioned the very cool leather seat with Leather Honey, polished up everything, had the wheels trued, and replaced all the consumables. Note the original mechanical odometer on the front hub. I cleaned it up and kept it. And the saddle pouch came with the bike as well. Sanded down and repainted the buckles, cleaned up the pouch, and it looks like new.

This is my third refurb. I did the same to a sunset orange 1973 Varsity and just sold it for what I put into it. Also did a 1986 Bianchi that was in *terrible* shape. That Bianchi was my first bike and I rescued it from beside my dad's garage.

Man these things clean up nice! Below are the before and after. Anyway, without this forum I'd have been lost!


Before

After (one brake cable not yet attached, waiting on a ferrule)

pastorbobnlnh 

Great job! It is a real beauty. I like your color scheme. Reminds me of what I did with my Schwinn Super Sport over a decade ago. Projects like this are a great deal of fun and bring a great deal of satisfaction. As you are well aware, one bike project leads to another, to another, to another....

kmerskine

Sweet looking bike! Love that paint. I was originally looking for something a bit deeper red than what I got. Something more like the red Raleigh used in the 60s or 70s. And love the seat! I wanted to spring for a Brooks saddle but this bike isn't worth that saddle, esp if I end up selling it. The original saddle on this bike was sort of cool anyway, so just decided to recondition and clean.

pastorbobnlnh 

Thanks, the Super Sport was a fun project that took well over a year to complete. Is your saddle a Sprint model? I have two of those. One on my '62 Continental and a spare, just in case.

bikemig 

Very nice job but we need a drive side pic of your bike as well, 😉

kmerskine

Yes, it is the Sprint model.

BikingViking793 

That looks great. I have a Schwinn I might have to do similar with. Is powder coating very expensive?

kmerskine

I paid $100 to have the first one blasted and painted. This one was $150 because the color required two coats of powder. A silver coat and then the red coat. It's a special color that sort of changes color a bit in the sun. He does it cheap, he says, because he uses powder from previous jobs that he'll never use otherwise. If I want to paint it a color that he doesn't already have, then I have to buy the powder as well. That would double the price, at the very least. But he's got lots of colors to choose from. I was able to find an almost exact match to this 1973 Varsity, sunset orange color. Before and after pics.

Vintage Schwinn

That red that you painted the 1964 Varsity looks so much better than the original Jim Rockford Firebird color.
It looks great and the canary yellow handlebar tape just adds to the stunning appearance. The yellow makes it really a looker!

That powder coated 1973 orange Varsity looks great. That leather color seat and matched leather bar tape was a great choice!

PastorB's burgandy Super Sport is outta-sight! Pastor B perhaps should be hired by one of bike manufacturers as the creative, style consultant, and paint & accessory department chief because every picture of any PastorB bike is very tastefully done, and really looks like something most everybody would enjoy riding despite the ordinary, humble, weighty, touristy-slow, origins of many of his common antique bicycles. I guess it is almost the equivalent of seeing a 1965-1966 Ford Mustang coupe, or convertible (not the 65-66 fastback!) in your favorite interior & exterior color combinations, that just looks timeless and classy, ---or-----1962 - 1974 MGB vert, chrome bumper model only (not the MGB Gt & not the MGC !!) in your favorite interior & exterior color combinations.....
Humble and low cost but you can say they have a timeless look, and are relatively simple even if they were not so great and relatively crude from an original mechanical drivetrain-gearbox-brakes-electrical-suspension-wheels- &accessories standpoint.
Just as the early Mustang & the MGB make wonderful fun to drive cars for 2021 and beyond when done in such a way to improve certain factory faults and other deficiencies. There is a large MG forum dedicated to transplanting better and more reliable engine&transmission combinations from other worldwide quality automobile makers that aren't the low quality British junk like nearly everything from MG, Austin, Triumph, British-Leyland, Jaguar and many other English marques of the 20th Century were. Only the Italians made automobiles that were lower quality garbage than the English during the post WWII period of the 20th Century. Those Italian & British automobiles were definitely mechanical feces, but despite being utter trash, were among the best looking, most attractive vehicles of that era or any era.
I am simply saying that it is fairly simple for the mechanically competent do-it-yourselfer to re-work an MGB or early Mustang such that it is reliable and comfortable enough with A/C and relaxed gearing to drive in everyday traffic & interstate cruising at 80 mph. A 1989 through 1994 FORD 5.0 EFI v-8 and T-5 five speed transmission will easily fit into either the MGB or the early Mustang. The FORD 5.0 EFI v-8(289-302 carb v-8) is the LIGHTEST DECENT V-8 and the most COMPACT IN TERMS OF PHYSICAL SIZE DIMENSIONS. It is about 455 pounds or so. The Chevy small block v-8 (305 or 350) is 100 pounds heavier. The 1961-1963 BUICK 215 aluminum v-8 is LIGHTER than the FORD v-8 but it is a POS in comparison. (Buick-Olds-pontiac did make versions of this same aluminum v-8 from 1961-1963) This engine is physically larger than the Ford v-8 though it is lighter. As cars were getting larger-heavier, BUICK developed a conventional iron block 300 v-8 for 1964 models.
Seen in the smaller models like Skylark & Special from 1964 to 1966 or 1967..........physically the same basic physical size as the 215 aluminum v-8 that it replaced...
1964 only has iron block with alum heads, 1965-1966--67 has traditional iron block/iron heads..........ROVER of ENGLAND purchased the entire tooling, engineering data, the entire 215 aluminum engine, etc from GM in about 1965 and shipped it to the U.K and that became the ROVER v-8 which was in use continuously from the late sixties onward for the next 40 years or so. Rover made certain engineering refinements and their (Rover's) manufacturing quality control was slightly better than GM was with respect to GM's production of that engine during the early sixties.
Numerous modern & ancient 4 cylinders -and- many modern & ancient v-6 will easily fit an MGB engine bay. The ancient compact & lightweight FORD 200 inline six (dimensionally the physically smallest and lightest of domestic makes, also with 7 main bearings, perhaps the most durable and fuel efficient of any carb'd six) ...the integral log intake limits breathing potential needed for significantly improving its power output..... however it is possible to cut away the log and braze a home-made intake....detailed examples seen in recent years on the web.........the only alternative is to obtain either a FORD Argentina inline six head or an early FORD Australia inline six head, where engineers in both those separate Ford subsidiaries did independently do further engineering & development work as the engine was a mainstay in Argentina for decades. The Aussies initially developed a revised head that significantly improved this engine and then the Aussies developed an all new engine that built on what knowledge-experience gained from the American design and took it much farther since both fuel efficiency and power output in a family size sedan was desired in Australia.
Hey, there are all kinds of extremely well done transplants and partial transplants concerning the MGB.
Partial transplant would include individuals that take the 5 speed transmission from a 1975-1978 DATSUN 280Z and mate that to the original 1.8 liter MGB 4 cylinder.
Better gearing, lower revs at 80mph freeway speeds, provides quieter, smoother operation and significantly longer engine life since the the cruising revs are significantly lowered. I cannot say exactly which 5 speed 280Z of the seventies yields the most desireable gear ratios but I did get to drive an old classmate's '73 MGB with Datsun 280Z five speed and original 1.8 liter MGB four cylinder at a major milestone class re-union just several years ago.
Just saying that making old bicycles the way you want to is the most fun...............same thing with old cars and old houses!
I'm not saying that it should be attempted by everybody because with respect to cars & houses, you might not know enough yet and it could be a money pit for someone totally clueless but heck a bicycle project isn't rocket-science, and the satisfaction that you get from completing your build is "priceless" , even if a significant portion of your project build is a sunk cost. It isn't the end of the world if you spend for example about $315 to build a bicycle your-way that may only have a market-resale value of maybe $150 to $175 tops no matter how nicely done. Who the heck cares, because you will get much more than $315 value of enjoyment out of both building, riding, and showing-off your super-cool bicycle that you did yourself.
Anybody can be ordinary. Those with greater disposable income and higher limits on their platinum card can go to their most upscale local bike shop, or an upscale bike shop in a not too distant large city and order & purchase the finest most expensive offering from that bike manufacturer's current catalog line. You may be somewhat limited in color choices, certainly not like the hundreds of colors you could choose on any project build.
Certainly, you would have among the best bike in terms of technology by buying the latest and most expensive top-of-the line bicycle , but it won't be something that you designed yourself restomodded, and custom built. Some folks could care less, as they don't enjoy anything hands on and DIY, as most folks don't care about the nuts & bolts and how-why something works & functions............they just want to turn the key or flip the switch and at that point in time when something isn't perfect with it, they call on competent qualified service personnel to handle the service work. There is no right or wrong. It is simply whatever is your preference.
If however, that you do enjoy DIY, or think that you might enjoy trying, you should at least once give it a go with a project bicycle. You don't have to cancel your order for your new bike, and you don't need to sell off or quit riding any of your current stable of bicycles, unless you've got ten bikes already and three 70 pound German Shepherds and you live in a tiny 200 sq ft studio apartment....
Have fun! A low-buck bicycle project such as doing an ancient Schwinn may be something for those cold Winter early evenings when it gets dark by 5:30PM so you can't ride until 8:30PM like you can during June & July.
Have fun! Just like the old Burger King ads of long ago mentioned, 'Have It Your Way!'
Just like young Mikey back during the bike-boom era.........recall: "you try it, nah i'm not gonna cuz it's a dang Schwinn, lets see what Mikey thinks, he hates Schwinns and anything with Ashtabula cranks and gaspipe tubing......(.---just minutes later--)........Oh wow, Mikey likes it.... Can't believe that Mikey likes it and thinks it would make a good project, since it is a dang Schwinn..... Mikey likes it, didn't see that coming cuz i thought he only liked decent bikes......
Don't be the idiot that has to seek Mikey's approval to sanction whether it is a worthwhile build or not! (Apologies to LIFE Cereal from circa '74-'75)
Think for yourself.
Have fun, and enlist both your family and friends to assist you in tearing down, assembling, choosing paint colors etc on your project build. It can be more fun sometimes by getting more family and friends involved. Maybe build it and then give it to someone. You can always build more than one.
There are no shortages of old Schwinn candidates.
Stay Thin, Ride A Schwinn............that extra Schwinn weight will do ya some good during your bicycle riding workout!

SkinGriz

That’s cool. It looks good.

kmerskine

Yes, it certainly was a fun project. "Stay thin, ride a Schwinn," takes on new meaning, as you note, given the weight! It's true. Maybe I should ride one of these to train.

sovende

I’m of the (near) same vintage as the original owner of the OP’s Schwinn Varsity. (BTW, super nice resto on that bike!) Back in that era, you weren’t one of the “cool kids” if you didn’t ride a Schwinn 10 speed bike! I had a mid-sixties Continental that was my pride and joy for many years. If I still had it, I’d consider doing a similar resto project but my deep rooted frugality would prolly keep me from laying out $200+ for a powder coat finish. I’d be tempted on a higher end C/V bike but not a mid-sixties Continental:-(.
I like the “stay thin, ride a Schwinn” bit and must admit that I’ve never heard it before (but fully understand the context).
Thumbs up to both the OP and the New Hampshire Padre on very nice restorations of those Schwinn bikes!

ollo_ollo

Good job on those restorations! Seems almost any 20th Century machinery is rewarding to restore, Toasters, woodworking machinery etc. Now that you got your feet wet with Schwinns, try something foreign, maybe even French if you feel adventurous, but keep your eyes open for a Schwinn Super Sport, as they are out there. Sometimes at a low price , since they had the same paint colors and scheme as Varsity and Continental. People sometimes think they are just another heavy old Schwinn yet they are quite a step up from the Varsity/Continental bikes, but still heavy enough to be uninteresting to many C&V collectors. Here are two after pics of mine. I gave the yellow one to a teenager who did yard work for us. He since out grew it, but still keeps riding it. Don

1966 Schwinn Super Sport with Campagnolo Mirage triple crankset

1971 Schwinn Super Sport with Shimano 600 Arabesque Crankset

kmerskine

Sweet looking bikes! Love the saddle on the one in the top pic. Is that a Brooks?

To have the frame blasted and powder coated was $100 for the first bike, and a bit more for the second. I sold the first one for $350, almost exactly what I put into it. Anyway, it was time well-spent, even if I didn't get my money out of it. It's a fun hobby to have. As someone whose job entails a lot of screen time, it is nice to sit and tinker with these things when I finish work, and on the weekends. My rationale is that it's money spent for entertainment, same as if I'd gone to a movie or to play golf. Of course, that only gets me so far, and the wife keeps reminding me of the nickel and dime costs she sees on the cc.

BikingViking793 

I'll have to search around to see if anyone around here will do it for that sort of price. I contacted a company for an idea of the cost and they are starting at $250 and that's for a stock color.

Velo Mule

Nice job on two restored vintage Schwinn's kmerskine . I was never a fan of Varsities and Continentals at the time they were being sold however, the low price in the used market, the durability of the bike, and the fact that they ride pretty well made me a convert. In fact one of the reasons that I like it is because of the slack frame angles. I'm keeping an eye out for a Super Sport or Sports Tourer.

Are those Cool Stop dual compound brake pads? How are they working for you? I have Cool Stop Continentals on my Continental with aluminum rims, however, they are squealing. I will have to see if I can do something about it.

I don't want to be nitpicky, however, your probably want to get it right. The adjustment barrel on brake caliper is on the wrong side of the brake arm. You may notice that the cable alignment from the adjustment barrel to the clamping nut is not straight. This is for both the front and rear calipers. You can use your excellent before and after pictures as a reference.

Back when these bikes were sold, Varsities got the side pull brakes and slightly pricier Continental got the center pull brakes. Back then, center pulls were considered better. Nowadays, side pull brakes are preferred. Including by me. I have thought about putting side pulls on my Continental. It would solve to issue about cable routing to the rear brake and the cable hanger.

Here is my Continental, because threads like this just need more pictures.



Fenders are on the list of things to do.

Vintage Schwinn

The SUBURBAN ( 1970 - 1977) ten speeds and five speeds are exactly the same as the Continental / Varsity with these differences:
---Suburban has the Weinmann L.S. 2.4 sidepulls of the VARSITY but the Suburban does have the TUBULAR front fork of the Continental....just with Varsity's brakes.

----The Suburban is the Tourist Version with SCHWINN 7881 handlebars, , Painted Fenders, and Black Deluxe Mattress Saddle
The FIVE SPEED Suburban has the same 46 tooth single front crankchainwheel as the COLLEGIATE....the same Shimano built rear derailleur as the 1970-77 COLLEGIATE
---------The FIVE SPEED Suburban has the MODEL J freewheel 32---26---21---17---14 (model J = japan) which at the time it was released had a patented new seal design that was among the best in the industry at that point in time...............(THE 1970 and onward COLLEGIATE has the exact same MODEL J freewheel)
.......The 1970 COLLEGIATE 5 speed --and-- The 1970 SUBURBAN 5 speed do mark Shimano's first work for Schwinn. All of the Collegiate & Suburban 5 speeds of the seventies have Shimano equipment. The FFS (forward freewheel system) arrived around 1977 model year, but everything between 1970 and the end of 1976 model year is normal conventional and without FFS.

Why is it helpful to know this about the FIVE SPEED Suburban? So many folks don't realize that they have the same 32--26--21--17--14 freewheel gearing that ONLY THE Super-Sport, Suburban 5 speed, and Collegiate 5 speed had at that time within the SCHWINN line up....... You can confirm that for yourself by viewing page 5 (gear charts page) of the 1971 Schwinn LIGHTWEIGHT BICYCLES Owners Manual (cover photo has a pretty brunette wearing a dark skirt and a guy in white shorts and a hawaiian shirt , riding with palm trees in the background)
----The SUBURBAN 10speed, CONTINENTAL and VARSITY did have the exact same gearing 28--24--20--16--14 (model F) and 39 / 52 at front crank.
------------The 1971 Sports Tourer has 34---28---22---17---14 and 36 / 54 at front crank
-----------The 1971 Super-Sport has the SAME freewheel gearing as the Suburban 5 speed --AND-- 1970 later COLLEGIATE 5 speed ..........39 / 52 at front...


Yes, the SUBURBANS do have steel ordinary Schwinn stems that the Seventies era Varsities & seventies era Collegiates do.... SUBURBAN has Tubular fork of the Conti.
The CONTINENTAL has a much lighter weight alloy stem and drop bars than the Varsity. The CONTI has centerpulls, the Suburban has sidepulls like the Varsity.
The Suburban was generally available in somewhat more conservative, muted colors and many year models have decal graphics that do not stand out so much, and after much time they tend to blend in with the original paint color, becoming even less visible and less vibrant...............this is typical with several colors on Suburbans between 1970 and 1975..............So yep, the SUBURBAN maybe did not get all of the really cool colors that the VARSITY-CONTINENTAL-COLLEGIATE saw in between 1970 and 1975, probably because the target audience for such a tourist type bike with painted fenders was aimed at a distinctly more reserved, conservative rider.....definitely not the born to be wild crowd......maybe the born to be mild...
----Suburbans do have a few nice colors in one or several years. You can always customize & repaint to your heart's content.
IF YOU DON'T MIND THE ORIGINAL STEEL WHEELS WITH A VARSITY or SUBURBAN, you could perhaps just swap a '70 to '76 5 SPEED SUBURBAN rear wheel on to any old Varsity for perhaps better gearing................you would need to USE a Shimano or Maeda Suntour rear derailleur BECAUSE THE Huret Allvit of the Varsity-10spSUB--Cont will not shift the 32 low gear cog........................The Shimano built (GT-100......seen on '70-'73 and very early '74 Five speed Suburbans & Collegiates) and the Shimano (GT-120........seen on 1974-1977 Collegiates, Suburban5 speeds) WILL DO THE 32 low gear cog. Sometimes during the seventies when the Schwinn production line for Varsity-Conti-10sp Suburban was out of Huret Allvits, at that time when that happened Schwinn would substiute the far superior Shimano built GT 100 or GT120 depending on when/what year this shortage occurred. COUNT YOURSELF LUCKY IF YOU HAVE THE Shimano built GT 100 or the Shimano GT 120 instead of the dang Huret Allvit on your Varsity etc.

The SUBURBAN did come in several (men's) diamond and several (women's) step-through frame sizes.
The 21" women's step-through is perfect for mature adult males that are between 5ft 9" and 6ft 2"
The largest men's frame in the SUBURBAN was the 24" diamond frame........it is a big frame......but the VARSITY & CONTINENTAL could be had in even larger frames during certain year models in the early 70's and mid 70's.

Do remember that you can simplify any electroforged Schwinn ten speed from a ten speed into a 5 speed like the Collegiate/5 speed Suburban.
You aren't limited to just Five because you could spread the rear for a modern wheel with SEVEN or whatever....
Remember that the ASHTABULA One-Piece-Crank is your friend if you admire simplicity and durability........A $10 300mm/12 inch crescent wrench from Harbor Freight and an ordinary large or medium-large Flathead Screwdriver, a 14 oz $9 tube of GREEN GREASE (brand name) from AutoZone, NAPA or other auto parts store......GREEN GREASE is synthetic and waterproof and the best that you can buy at any price.......... the 14 oz tube will last you a long long time.....at least maybe enough to do 30 bikes.... ......Ronson lighter fluid, or Formula 87 (lawnmower gasoline from your refill container........tiny bit poured into cut in half Coke or Beer cans...just enough to barely drown the Number 64 (#64) caged bearing.......keep Each of the TWO number 64(#64) caged bearings in separate dunk cans because you probably do want to re-insert them exactly in - on the same side of the crank that they were removed from, after you clean them..............SUPER IMPORTANT: Do This Outside away from Children, Pets, Buildings, Sparks, Flames, etc........
You only need to remove the LEFT PEDAL and/or if you have a 5 speed(or single speed...3 speed) WITH A FULL CHAINGUARD, you will need to at least partially remove it -OR-remove it so that it is at least free of the front crank area in order to remove the one-piece ASHTABULA crank to service the two NUMBER 64(#64) caged bearings. It is so incredibly simple. Don't just automatically think that as some morons do, that oh, I cannot be caught dead riding a bike with a One Piece crank because my 'cyclist' friends will make fun of me. You will not save hardly any weight to justify changing away from something unbreakable and super-simple to service. You would be better served to just save weight elsewhere as with using a much lighter seat, or lighter pedals, or aluminum wheels, because the One-Piece Ashtabula crank is really your friend. Hell, you never are gonna lighten an electroforged frame significantly enough to become a true-lightweight so why waste time and effort in doing so for something less bomb-proof. That is about as smart as a S.W.A.T. team member going on a mission but deciding not wear their bulletproof vest and armour because they simply don't like how it looks.

The Optional chrome fenders on the early seventies era Continentals and Varsities do look great because the Schwinn chrome quality was fantastic. The chrome fenders also will clean up a great deal even if they exhibit some rust. I do prefer the round reflector and matched size chrome bezel mount at the rear bottom of the rear fender. This is the look that the chrome fenders had from the early sixties through about the 1973 model year. I don't care for the ugly larger rectangular reflector assembly that is attached to the rear fenders from at least 1975 model year forward. There are some very minor differences in the sixties and early seventies fenders as at some point the metal edge went from knife edge sharp to a slight rolled safety edge, but you cannot really tell the difference just by looking at the fender on a bike because it is not something one sees unless the fender is removed and you inspect the underside & bottom of the fender.
Do it however you like it........painted to match, painted to contrast, chrome, glow-in-the-dark, see-thru, psychadelic, with a mural design, or paint the whole bike and fenders in the nearest paint scheme to match the Partridge Family's 1956 GMC School Bus' far-out paint scheme
-----------Change It and do it the way you want it...............Ride it..............and most of all have fun!

Deal4Fuji

Since we're mostly Schwinn enthusiasts here, I came across this video that I think you guys will enjoy. It eventually focuses on the popular Sting Ray line, but starts out with Schwinn history. As much as I love my Continental, I would still like to have a large frame Sting Ray to tool around the neighborhood on.

kmerskine

Nice looking bike. Yes, they are Cool Stops. I sold the sunset orange bike before I did much riding, but they did squeal a bit. The red Varsity hasn't hit the road yet, I'm still trying to figure out how to adjust the gears so they don't knock the chain of the sprocket. I think I may have a bent derailleur. So it's still on the bike stand until I have time to get back to it.

Thanks for mentioning the adjustment barrel. I'll have to fix that as well.

ollo_ollo

Yes, both of those bikes were $25 Finds on the Salem Oregon CL during one of the Clunker 100 challenges, I think 2016. Both still had their original Brooks B-15 saddles, rare as usually the Brooks got saved by owners who liked them or disposed of by those who thought the standard "mattress" saddles more comfortable. They were very dry with some cracking but responded well to renovation. I still have both the saddles and they look good and are comfortable. The 55 y.o. 1966 model is most comfortable of the two.

I always considered my vintage machinery/vintage bicycle hobby as "adult education" in addition to being entertaining and relaxing. Try that one out on your wife. Don

tkamd73 

I love the old Schwinns, growing up started with a Racer, then a Continental, finally a Sports Tourer. Wish I still had them all. Recently found this 1971 Sports Tourer frame for sale at South Shore Cyclery, and decided to restomod it.
Tim


As found

After paint at Yellow Jersey (photo of the day)

Completed

kmerskine

No, the saddle on the sunset orange Varsity is a Person, made in India I believe. It is new. Not nearly the quality of a Brooks, but looks similar. The red Varsity saddle is the original Sprint (Schwinn made or approved, I believe). This is the original saddle for that bike.

kmerskine

That's a nice looking bike. Looks brand new.

Vintage Schwinn

There is a "local pickup only" big frame (24 inch) March 1974 COLLEGIATE in ORANGE with zero bids and a $10 starting bid.....bidding ends tomorrow Sat JULY 3rd.
......For $10 and the gasoline and time to drive there and back would be worth it if you are within about sixty miles... IT WOULD MAKE A GREAT COVID CLUNKER 2021 CHALLENGE BIKE if you haven't already done so, YOU HAVE UNTIL Aug 7, 2021 TO COMPLETE Your CLUNKER CHALLENGE BIKE RIDE for 2021.
***The 24 inch frame is the LARGEST of the Collegiate frames......
Yeah, you'll need tires, tubes,...etc but this one will clean up and ORANGE like Schwinn's yellow(kool lemon) is just a really cool color.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/22451200464...8AAOSwOL9g16b7

Ends on Sat July 3rd.....on the bay....LOCAL PICKUP ONLY........Indiana location about 45 miles from Chicago
Men's ORANGE Collegiate....stock seat, stock chrome fenders, stock 7881 handlebars, GT-100 (shimano built...used from 1970 to early '74 on Collegiates & 5 sp Suburb.
Ancient tires................you can only replace them with 597mm KENDA tires for Schwinn S5/S6 wheels ,,,,,,***590mm WILL NOT FIT****
Kenda 597mm (37-597) 26 x 1 3/8 Schwinn S5/S6 597mm................
Serial number:CK585480 indicates March 1974 because the 2nd Letter(K) indicates the year 1974, and the first letter(C)indicates the month March.
****THESE COLLEGIATE 5 SPEEDS OF THE 1970's are GREAT RIDERS.....slow for sure, but you can cruise all day between 9 mph and 14 mph and the ride is super comfortable......... The 1964-1969 Collegiates are Less Desireable as they have the Huret Allvit rear derailleur and the model F freewheel with 28--24--20--16--14.
The 1970 - 1977 Collegiates have Shimano built rear derailleurs(GT 100 or GT 120 depending on whether early seventies or mid 1974 later)
The 1970 -1977 COLLEGIATES have the superior Model J freewheel with 32-26-21-17-14 which offers a better 'wider-gear range' than sixties Collegiates do.
The 1970 - 1977 Collegiates have Much Better HILL CLIMBING ABILITY since you do have a 32 teeth first gear --versus--- the 28 teeth first gear of 1964 thru 1969 models
ALL 5 speed COLLEGIATES and 5 speed SUBURBANS have a single 46 TOOTH FRONT CHAINCRANKWHEEL.

This will make someone that is taller than average, a great project bike that they could restore in just a weekend. Orange is a neat color too.
On the bay, ends tomorrow....zero bids.....$10 starting bid on a LOCAL PICKUP ONLY
#224512004645
full disclosure: I do not know the seller, I am not the seller, I will not be bidding on this. I have not seen the bike, just the photos on the listing........
I am too far away.
...................just thought this one example would be excellent for someone close to 6 ft tall to 6 ft 6" who might want to consider this 24 inch frame Collegiate.