Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

Suntour AR Rear Derailleur - Cable Routing?

Search
Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Suntour AR Rear Derailleur - Cable Routing?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-25-21, 05:28 PM
  #1  
Harold74
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Calgary, AB Canada
Posts: 564

Bikes: Miyata 1000, Lemond Zurich, Lynskey Rouleur, Airborne Zeppelin, Vintage Zullo, Miele Lupa

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 329 Post(s)
Liked 98 Times in 75 Posts
Suntour AR Rear Derailleur - Cable Routing?

I have a bit of an odd situation in that I'm assembling an old Nishiki that somebody else took apart. I'm starting to see the weakness in this approach in that it makes it harder for me to put things back together. Anyhow, the bike came with a vintage derailleur that I like very much. Unfortunately, I'm left to guess at how the cable routing works for the derailleur. This has led me to have two questions that I'm seeking help with:

1) Have I got the routing correct in the first pic below? This would be my first time dealing with a derailleur where the cable actually passes through the body of the unit. I can't say that I'm enjoying the experience.

2) The thing that I'm assuming to be the pinch bolt has no square washer plate beneath it as I'm used to seeing on other bicycle mech. Should there be such a plate? I don't want to knock myself out trying to cable this thing only to realize that I never had a chance to begin with because I'm missing a part.

I'm fixing this bike up as a low value rider. You know, to ride to the liquor store and probably not lock up, path ride with the wife... stuff like that. If the derailleur is missing a part that's at all difficult or expensive to get, I'll probably just toss on new Claris derailleur and leave it at that, period correctness be damned.

Harold74 is offline  
Old 07-25-21, 08:35 PM
  #2  
SurferRosa
señor miembro
 
SurferRosa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 6,623

Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo

Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3886 Post(s)
Liked 6,480 Times in 3,206 Posts
Isn't it this one?

https://www.disraeligears.co.uk/site...leur_4300.html

Yes, that's the cable anchor bolt. Before you mount the derailleur, use a spare cable to make sure that you've got it routed correctly. Shouldn't be that hard to hold it in your hand, route the cable, pinch it tight, and see if it holds. Clean it up before you mount it.
SurferRosa is offline  
Old 07-25-21, 08:47 PM
  #3  
1simplexnut
Senior Member
 
1simplexnut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 1,035

Bikes: 1963? Anquetil , 1973 PX10,1979 PX10,1984 PX10, VITUS 979 PX10DU,1970S ALAN,1985 PSV10,1980s PY10FC,1978 bERTIN,ALAN carbon

Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 283 Post(s)
Liked 636 Times in 283 Posts
Originally Posted by Harold74
I have a bit of an odd situation in that I'm assembling an old Nishiki that somebody else took apart. I'm starting to see the weakness in this approach in that it makes it harder for me to put things back together. Anyhow, the bike came with a vintage derailleur that I like very much. Unfortunately, I'm left to guess at how the cable routing works for the derailleur. This has led me to have two questions that I'm seeking help with:

1) Have I got the routing correct in the first pic below? This would be my first time dealing with a derailleur where the cable actually passes through the body of the unit. I can't say that I'm enjoying the experience.

2) The thing that I'm assuming to be the pinch bolt has no square washer plate beneath it as I'm used to seeing on other bicycle mech. Should there be such a plate? I don't want to knock myself out trying to cable this thing only to realize that I never had a chance to begin with because I'm missing a part.

I'm fixing this bike up as a low value rider. You know, to ride to the liquor store and probably not lock up, path ride with the wife... stuff like that. If the derailleur is missing a part that's at all difficult or expensive to get, I'll probably just toss on new Claris derailleur and leave it at that, period correctness be damned.

yep your routing of cable is correct .
My one had no plate and has held up fine :-)
1simplexnut is offline  
Old 07-26-21, 09:26 AM
  #4  
Harold74
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Calgary, AB Canada
Posts: 564

Bikes: Miyata 1000, Lemond Zurich, Lynskey Rouleur, Airborne Zeppelin, Vintage Zullo, Miele Lupa

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 329 Post(s)
Liked 98 Times in 75 Posts
Originally Posted by 1simplexnut
yep your routing of cable is correct .
My one had no plate and has held up fine :-)
That is great to know, thank you. The derailleur is my favorite part of the bike and I'm glad that it sounds as though I'll be able to retain it. I'll get out my tweezers and magnifying glass to get this thing set up...
Harold74 is offline  
Old 07-26-21, 11:26 AM
  #5  
Velo Mule
Senior Member
 
Velo Mule's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 2,109

Bikes: Trek 800 x 2, Schwinn Heavy Duti, Schwinn Traveler, Schwinn Le Tour Luxe, Schwinn Continental, Cannondale M400 and Lambert, Schwinn Super Sport

Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 809 Post(s)
Liked 1,022 Times in 665 Posts
I thought Suntour made the best stuff back in the late '70's and into the '80's, but this ARX cable routing had me wondering why change a good thing. It made it more difficult to run the cable through to the clamp. It is not terrible, however, what problem did it solve? Yea, it is supposed to be aero, smoother looking and use an allen key instead of a wrench to cinch the clamp down.

I have an ARX on one of my bikes, maybe one that I sold, and it does shift well. Running the cable into the clamp is a once in a long while thing, so with that behind you, enjoy the ride.
Velo Mule is offline  
Old 07-26-21, 05:07 PM
  #6  
steelbikeguy
Senior Member
 
steelbikeguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Peoria, IL
Posts: 4,476
Mentioned: 86 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1829 Post(s)
Liked 3,375 Times in 1,580 Posts
The Mark II version of the SunTour Cyclone had a similar cable clamp mechanism. Not really my favorite, since it complicates things without any real benefit. This was the era of "aerodynamics", when the shape of components became streamlined, typically at the expense of weight and complexity.







Steve in Peoria
steelbikeguy is offline  
Likes For steelbikeguy:
Old 07-27-21, 05:17 PM
  #7  
noobinsf 
Senior Member
 
noobinsf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 3,265

Bikes: '82 Univega Competizione, '72 Motobecane Grand Record, '83 Mercian KOM Touring, '85 Univega Alpina Uno, '76 Eisentraut Limited

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1088 Post(s)
Liked 1,205 Times in 701 Posts
Be careful — things get even more complicated if you accidentally strip the cinch bolt or round out the Allen flats. Replacement means finding a donor derailleur or something creative.
noobinsf is offline  
Old 07-27-21, 05:24 PM
  #8  
Harold74
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Calgary, AB Canada
Posts: 564

Bikes: Miyata 1000, Lemond Zurich, Lynskey Rouleur, Airborne Zeppelin, Vintage Zullo, Miele Lupa

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 329 Post(s)
Liked 98 Times in 75 Posts
Noted. I recently stripped the Allen bolts on some nice bar ends so I'm pretty sensitive to this. One thing great about this RD is that I've already had all of the bolts and screws pulled out and antiseized. I've snapped or stripped a lot of twisty things on old components in the past.
Harold74 is offline  
Old 07-27-21, 10:15 PM
  #9  
rgvg
Car free since 2018
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 685

Bikes: Mostly japanese ones

Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 259 Post(s)
Liked 269 Times in 134 Posts
That link to disraeli gears shows a picture of the exploded view and it does have a square washer in the picture. Also I have an arx in front of me from a bike I am working on, and yes, it does have that square plate. It seems easy to thread the cable as it goes right between the square washer and the other bit where the bolt threads into. But if it works without it, I guess it works without it.
rgvg is offline  
Old 07-28-21, 08:17 AM
  #10  
Harold74
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Calgary, AB Canada
Posts: 564

Bikes: Miyata 1000, Lemond Zurich, Lynskey Rouleur, Airborne Zeppelin, Vintage Zullo, Miele Lupa

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 329 Post(s)
Liked 98 Times in 75 Posts
Argh.... such an emotional roller coaster!
Harold74 is offline  
Old 07-30-21, 02:27 AM
  #11  
1simplexnut
Senior Member
 
1simplexnut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 1,035

Bikes: 1963? Anquetil , 1973 PX10,1979 PX10,1984 PX10, VITUS 979 PX10DU,1970S ALAN,1985 PSV10,1980s PY10FC,1978 bERTIN,ALAN carbon

Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 283 Post(s)
Liked 636 Times in 283 Posts
Originally Posted by Harold74
Argh.... such an emotional roller coaster!
Thats part of the fun of old bikes and old bike bits .
Had another mech here in the spares box . No plate there either .
I suppose if you dont trust it without it would pretty simple to make a replacement.
It is just a piece of steel with a hole in it
1simplexnut is offline  
Old 07-30-21, 09:09 AM
  #12  
Harold74
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Calgary, AB Canada
Posts: 564

Bikes: Miyata 1000, Lemond Zurich, Lynskey Rouleur, Airborne Zeppelin, Vintage Zullo, Miele Lupa

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 329 Post(s)
Liked 98 Times in 75 Posts
I may have met with a bit of good luck on this. I've got a badly damaged Miyata 610 frame in the garage that I've been meaning to divest myself of. I bought it for $50 to cannibalize for parts. That was still too much to pay in retrospect but I now believe that I've got a fighting chance of being able to pull the front derailleur washer plate off of that bike to put on the Suntour rear derailleur that is the subject of this thread. I haven't tried it yet but I'm hopeful. I tinkered with slapping my spare, Claris derailleur on instead and boy is that disappointing aesthetically.

The new washer plate has a keeper nub on it that might be a problem but I can probably grind that off if necessary.



Harold74 is offline  
Old 07-30-21, 11:42 AM
  #13  
T-Mar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 23,223
Mentioned: 654 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4722 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3,036 Times in 1,874 Posts
As noted., there was a rectangular washer under the cable bolt head. This washer had a whale tail on it that helped guide the cable into position, facilitating installation.

While the revised routing was more aerodynamic, it was also a weight saving measure, eliminating the cable retainer extensions on the rear parallelogram arms of earlier SunTour models at this level. However, I suspect that the real reason was cost savings. It allowed Maeda to to to fabricate the rear parallelogram arm from a smaller piece of steel, resulting in more efficient use of raw material.
T-Mar is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.