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Ordering cones - do these match well enough?

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Ordering cones - do these match well enough?

Old 03-04-21, 07:23 PM
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KC8QVO
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Ordering cones - do these match well enough?

For reference, here is a thread I had last year on one of the bikes I had some problems with:
https://www.bikeforums.net/folding-b...n-mariner.html

Based on the pictures/specs of the cones I have are the PN's I have the correct ones? I am not overly concerned with the dimensions other than the diameter of the folder drive side cone as it has a rubber seal. That measures 16.92mm and CN-085 is machined at 17.0mm, though it appears to have a seal race/groove for the seal. Not sure if I can order a seal with it also (the description shows it does not come with one by default).

Links below to the PN's:

CN-R085
CN-R097
CN-R082
CN-R086
CN-R081











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Old 03-05-21, 02:19 AM
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Well it is a little difficult to tell, because I am unsure of your drawings as to whether you have drawn just the metal or the seal as well, plus it is the shape of the bearing surface that will really define whether it works.

In my experience, once the cones start to go then the inner race will as well. Sometimes the cones get some water damage from being left to stand in damp conditions, and a change of cones and balls are all that are required, but your cones are trashed.

In your situation I would be looking to replace the hub/axle/cones as one unit, then find someone to weave the rim onto it. Is the hub a standard size?
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Old 03-05-21, 08:25 AM
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I believe the wheelsets do use standard hubs. The folding bike in the link had relatively low miles, under 500 if I remember (I think the actual mileage is in the thread). It appears to be a defect in the cone material that is the problem. I opened the front hub to get the measurements to preventatively replace those parts also and found the same problem. The races in the hubs arent in bad shape.

Id like to replace the cones and balls so I dont have to rebuild the wheelsets. I can rebuild them, Ive built a wheel before, but I would rather avoid the process and see how long things will last with just new cones and balls.

Later down the road if I need new hubs Ill cross that bridge when I get there.
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Old 03-05-21, 08:29 AM
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I can't help with your specific model, I have a different Dahon.
My observation is that Dahon, like many cheaper chinese built bikes, ships the bikes with little grease and cones too tight.
I caught mine before damage was done.
Good luck

Originally Posted by KC8QVO
I believe the wheelsets do use standard hubs. The folding bike in the link had relatively low miles, under 500 if I remember (I think the actual mileage is in the thread). It appears to be a defect in the cone material that is the problem. I opened the front hub to get the measurements to preventatively replace those parts also and found the same problem. The races in the hubs arent in bad shape.

Id like to replace the cones and balls so I dont have to rebuild the wheelsets. I can rebuild them, Ive built a wheel before, but I would rather avoid the process and see how long things will last with just new cones and balls.

Later down the road if I need new hubs Ill cross that bridge when I get there.
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Old 03-05-21, 08:46 AM
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Hey there kc, the times I've looked for replacement cones I eyeballed the old with the ones a bike store had in a box, trying to match up the angle and cone length. There are so many slight differences. Good luck, I figure if it's close enough it will work out. That was my experience with fixing up a friends hub. Thread is important to make sure new one threads on properly.
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Old 03-05-21, 08:53 AM
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You might just buy a new hub or entire new wheel and be done with this.

Lacking the perfect replacement parts, just make do with what inexpensive stuff you can find. You might have to add spacers to get back to the OLD. Your seal might have to be a piece of thick rubber you cut and push in there. Used to be quite common for bearings to not be as well protected on BB's and axles. We just put excess grease on them and cleaned them more often.

I guess the big question is if this bike is worth spending the little bit of money an entire new wheel costs. Or just getting some cones that work even though not original spec. so you can ride this bike before another winter comes.
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Old 03-06-21, 05:58 AM
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I am on the same page as DJB - I don't see any reason why cones, if close enough, won't work. By nature of the parts being cones with a tapered race - you can set the tension all the same. The question, therefore, is not the race side of the cones and how the balls mesh up with the races in the hubs, rather the overall diameter and the width. So I guess another question is with the tension set how much of a difference is there in width? And is that enough to matter? I would think within a mm or two it would work - more so narrower than wider, but if narrower a shim could be used between the jam nut and cone, for example.

I'd rather not get the OEM cones - the idea is to get better quality parts than OEM. That is the risk, I suppose, I am taking with the hubs - they have not shown issues, just the cones and balls thus far - on both front and rear now as it turns out.

I have a project (bike trailer) coming up that I will likely be building wheels for anyway so I can revisit the hub deal before I do that and see what shape they are in. Though, I have another bike that needs the parts also.
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Old 03-06-21, 07:42 AM
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One real issue is that very few cyclists ever think of regreasing hubs, so in stores it's more unlikely to even be able to access a box of odd cones. It waa a few years ago now that I worked on a friends bike and the mechanics I know were nice enough to let me rummage through what they had.

we live in a disposable society for lots of things, and most situations will have people buy new wheels, not worth paying a shop to work on a used hub, 99% of the time totally neglected by owner. Not worth it for the shop usually either.
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Old 03-06-21, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Geepig
In my experience, once the cones start to go then the inner race will as well.
I have had the opposite experience, fortunately. The cones are under somewhat higher "specific loading" because of their smaller radius of curvature. This explains the tendency for the cones to deteriorate first. Of course, if the bearings are not correctly adjusted, poorly lubricated or contaminated by dirt, both surfaces may wear prematurely.
I have a couple sets of wheels that are on their second or third set of cones, but the outer races are only polished smooth. Luckily I serviced the bearings in time!
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Old 03-08-21, 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by sweeks
I have had the opposite experience, fortunately. The cones are under somewhat higher "specific loading" because of their smaller radius of curvature. This explains the tendency for the cones to deteriorate first. Of course, if the bearings are not correctly adjusted, poorly lubricated or contaminated by dirt, both surfaces may wear prematurely.
I have a couple sets of wheels that are on their second or third set of cones, but the outer races are only polished smooth. Luckily I serviced the bearings in time!
I think that is the trick, to service them in time. Sadly most bikes that pass through my hands have had anything but timely service...
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