Revracer

So I really wanted to swap cranks and use a VO look alike on my Peugeot PKN. I have never had so much difficulty in opening a BB. First the crank threads stripped on the Stronglight. Then I bought a pulley puller that only destroyed the rings and did nothing to remove the crank. Next shot, I decided to take the BB cup off the left side and see if I could punch the BB shaft out of the crank. That worked, crank off, but then to service the BB, I cannot get the fixed cup off. I understand this is a French bike and both cups are supposed to tighten to the right and loosen to the left. Is there any reason this Peugeot would be different than normal French threads?

Damage to crank rings and tried the BB tool to clamp on fixed cup but just bent the washer.

merziac

IMHO, you will need the proper fixed cup wrench and need to set it up so it stays on so you can use a serious cheater.

The enclosed wrench is the only one to ever use and a thinwall pipe with the end flattened works best for the cheater.

These pics are going the wrong way but you get the idea.

You have to be able to hold the frame tight and it can be done on the ground if you set it up right.

Mr. 66

Depends, You may have Swiss or English.

Revracer

@merziac thank you for sharing your setup. I will explore the pipe route with my current BB tool.

Could a Peugeot actually get Swiss threading? I realize for as much as I beat on the fixed cup already, I guess trying the opposite direction could not do much more harm.

merziac

Yes, could be Swiss, are you using the big open end wrench on the cup?

You're welcome and you're right, once you get the wrench/pipe/clamp setup right, you will be able to turn it either way but if its as tight as it seems you must get a wrench that encircles the the whole cup, Campy, Sugino and lastly Park which I am not a fan of but can work. If the cup becomes too compromised from the wrench slipping you may have to cut it out potentially causing more damage.

I encourage you to step back and get it right from here before it goes any further south.

bikemig 

Do a bit of googling around but the stronglight cups often have markings that tell you the threading but yes this could be swiss threaded. I've had good luck using a big 15 inch adjustable wrench for getting fixed cups on and off.

Mr. 66

Yes, they had Swiss threading on a lot of models late 70's to mid 80's. It's like they saved French threading for the top bikes. They did a real mashup of combinations of threads and braze-ons and shift mounts during those years.

merziac

I now see you cut out the wrench, I assume to go on the cup with the crank in place, it will never hold onto the tight cup like that to get it off, they are barely thick/strong enough to work without cutting on them and will ruin the flats on the cup by slipping off under pressure.

merziac

It can do plenty more harm so be advised that you must support the BB to really lean on it, it cannot be in that stand, it will crush or bend any tube you clamp it on.

Get it on the ground with a good pad of cardboard, dense foam or wood so you can manhandle it properly.

It looks like those flats on the cup are already pretty compromised.

Revracer

merziac Yes, I cut the tool for exactly as you suggested. Perfect detective work and I bought a new Park tool (did not think of trying another brand) and have the clamps as you use. I think I will try going the Swiss way tomorrow with fresh eyes. The other option is to leave the fixed cup in an hope the BB shaft fits the Velo Orange crank without rub.

Thanks for that insight Mr. 66

merziac

Sounds good, if you get the setup right and are able to properly lean on it, you should be able to get it loose.

Patience is key and make sure it will hold before you really apply force.

This setup has never failed or damaged any parts, tools, frames or flesh, ever, period.

And I remove all fixed cups to inspect, clean, service and torque properly so they will come out when they need to down the road.

Kabuki12

Fixed cup removal is a pain but Merziac is right. I always lay the frame down on a painters drop cloth and then I use my machinists brass hammer to tap (real hard)on the wrench and to date has worked. The cheater may work better but you may need to have someone secure the frame.

Soody

I have used sheldons method a few times and find it works quite well
essentially you bolt a big bolt on the cup and tighten it until the cup loosens. Can work in either direction.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html

Soody

sorry about that nice crank too, thats a bummer

good luck

oneclick 

When you don't know which way a cup is supposed to turn, you just try alternating directions, increasing the force each way each time. When it moves the first time it'll either get tighter or looser, and you'll know which one by the feel.

cyclophilia 

You did not mention lubricant as one of your steps in the removal of the stubborn fixed cup…

Try some Kroil or PB Blaster or other penetrating oil on both the outside edge of the bottom bracket shell around the fixed cup and into the threads from inside the bottom bracket. Let the oil sit a while. Repeat the process.

Depending on your location there might be a BF member in your vicinity with the proper VAR shop tool for fixed cup removal. That tool grabs the cup securely with no risk of slipping.

Best wishes for the success of your project.

May we see a photo of the crank arm remover that stripped the threads on your Stronglight crank?

CV-6 

One ring, eight sides on fixed Stronglight cup is French.

merziac

Its in the pic with all the tools, parts and pieces, looks to be a standard Park BSA from here.

merziac

It doesn't have to be a pain, you must go all in from the beginning, plan for the worst. Last one I did was the Bianchi Super Leggera, had to get out a 4 foot cheater, zip tie the BB to the stand and hug it tight while leaning on it, snap, crackle, pop, done!

cyclophilia 

Thanks merziac!

I did not see it until you caused me to look more intently.

I have a concern that the remover might have been a 22.0 or 23.0 when the crank might have needed the 23.35.

French and Swiss thread specifications do provide their challenges.

merziac

One ring and two flats on the outer edge like most others on this one.

merziac

You're welcome.

Hard to say but pretty sure no standard looking puller like that now days isn't going to be standard BSA.

dedhed

https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...dge-sizes.html

Chombi1 

Note that the older Stronglight cranksets (pre-80's) had a removal threaded hole that is very slightly bigger than the industry standard. That's why the tool makers like Park and Stronglight themselves had a removal tool sized specifically for them.
Because of this, a lot of shops not familiar with the old Stronglight standards end up stripping the threads when they try to use the wrong removal tool.
BTW, you might be able to confirm the fixed cup threading direction if you look only at the threads (if they are showing) from inside the BB shell.....

redshift1

I once removed a very tight fixed cup by clamping it in a vice - not sure if this is an option for you - and then turning the frame. I think this was a Sheldon Brown suggestion.