Berk34M

Dear Fellows,

I got a nice bike from my friend but it was barely moving at any gear. I have opened the hub and found out many loose small particles and almost stuck carrier unit.

It is probably rusted up and just moving an inc back and forth. I have been many bike repair services but they say that it is unfixable.

I cannot add photos due to 10 post rule, very sorry about that...

I am completely new to this but my questions would be:

1. Is there anything to be done to fix it? One store owner advised me to put it in an oil and try my luck what do you think?
2. In another case: can I buy the exact same model and implement its internals to outer shelf, contained in the middle of the rear-wheel?

I would appreciate any help, thank you in advance for you time!

Best

Melih

andrewclaus

I would certainly try a soak in light oil first. If that doesn't work, try completely disassembling it, keeping parts in order, and consider your ability to rebuild it again. I haven't done that, so no help from me.

If that's not feasible, and you can get an exact replacement, consider rebuilding the wheel with the old spokes and rim. I have built wheels before and I would rather do that than disassemble and try to reassemble an IGH. If you can afford a new set of spokes, all the better, since the spoke sizing problem is already solved. Lacing and truing a wheel isn't all that difficult. The bike frame can be used as a truing stand, and three stacks of books is a close-enough dishing tool. Only a spoke wrench is needed. A musical ear for tension helps.

sweeks

This does not sound hopeful, especially if the "loose small particles" are metal. In this case, immersion in oil is unlikely to be helpful.
You might get some ideas of possible remedies HERE and HERE.
If the bike is really nice, it might just be easier to obtain a new rear wheel.
Have fun!

Berk34M

Thanks for the answers!

base2 

Usually the fix is to remove the end cap, remove the left bearing cone, pull the entire planetary gear set/ cartridge unit & drop in a new assembly.

The left cone & balls tends to be susceptible to moisture, rust. Lube this one well. A few squirts of Phil's Tenacious internally to the gear pack prior to assembly will help due to Phil's anti-corrosion additives. Lastly, pack the end cap & drive side bearings with thick marine grease to hold the liquid Phil's oil inside. Else it will leak out.

Easy as a standard axle replacement.

Berk34M

Yes my last hope is buying same new IGH and switching internal assembly. So that I can continue without touching the wheel setup. That would work right? (I am trying to be sure because it is a bit expensive for a student )

Also, I bought Shimano's internal hub grease, can I use this instead?

Thanks for the detailed explanations!

base2 

The internal assembly is a standard part available for almost any bike shop to order. It comes pre-packed & ready for install. But still follow the above linked lubrication tips. It costs nearly as much as a new complete hub. The savings is an avoided wheel build.

The replacement must be from the hub compatibility list.

I suppose the internal hub grease is some variety of lithium grease, the caveat is that standard lithium grease prevents the rollers from adequately grabbing the hub shell for power transfer. The hub will slip. You'll hardly ever go wrong with OEM product. The Phil's is simply in addition to to spread where the other grease doesn't go & for the anti-corrosion additives.

If you are seeing chunks & debris, & have a nearly seized hub, what you have is not a lubrication problem.

Tell your friend this is why you are not supposed to not to power shift IGH hubs. You don't have a clutch. Stop peddling, shift, then resume peddling. The hub should last essentially forever.

sweeks

You don't actually have to *stop* pedalling... just lighten up for the split-second it takes to shift.
It's amazing how long these hubs last... I've got a Nexus-8 with about 9,000 miles on it and an Alfine-11 that is starting to make noise after 10,600 miles. Regular maintenance is the key.

Berk34M

Okay Thanks again for the answers!

One question though, what about multiple gear switches? Is it okay to skip multiple gears while pedalling or not pedalling?

base2 

Oh, of course! I find it's just easier to say "stop" rather than have to explain to people to time the shift for the dead-spot in their stroke & then explain that power input in pedal strokes is lumpy between 0 & full. People tend to figure that out on their own once they've established good habit.

You can switch as many as you like so long as you are mindful of power input while in the act of shifting.

sweeks

When I service my Nexus-8, I dip the internal assembly in gear oil (I use "Royal Purple 75w-140), and use the Shimano grease on the ball bearings. To properly grease the planetary gears you should disassemble* the internal assembly and lubricate the modules individually. **Do Not** disassemble the modules, however,,, there's weirdness in those gears ("timing" or "phasing" or some such). The oil dip/bearing grease protocol is good for a thousand miles in my experience as a daily commuter.
*There's a circlip that must be removed, and it's got a tendency to fly far away when it snaps off. Don't ask me how I know! (I found it, luckily.)