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Tapping Dropout Eylets.

Old 08-07-22, 06:05 AM
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saulgoldie
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Tapping Dropout Eylets.

Hello to All,
I thought I posted this earlier. But I can't find it. so here is the short version.

I need to clean up the threads on the droupout eyelets of a new-to-me olde bike. Could have been paint, or poorly threaded eyelets from the frame maker. But on this new/olde frame, the bolt will not pass alltheway through like it should.The thread information on the bolts I got that fit the eyelets is:

"5mm x .8-20"

Another bolt that fits is from a rack mount kit. I think it is a Blackburn.

The tap I got from the hardware store would not pass without too much force. I tried it on a throwaway frame to test. The bolt I have did pass, mostly. I looked at some online bike tool and general tool sites, and I could not find an exact match. I know they are out there; we usta use them to clean up rack mount eyelets in the shop. It should be out there somewhere. I know that others have a need for this. It should cost like less than about $14USD, shouldn't it?

Can anyone point me to this tool? Thanks.

Saul
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Old 08-07-22, 06:49 AM
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Always put some oil on the tap/die to help with cleaning out debris and easier turning. If you are looking for a cheap tap and die set here is one from Harbor Freight for about $22.00.

https://www.harborfreight.com/carbon...-pc-62832.html

Yes there are better ones out there but this should do the trick.
​​​​​​​
​​​​​​​The trick to working with taps is work slowly and back it out when it starts to bind up, patience is key.
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Old 08-07-22, 07:13 AM
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Generally the threading on most frame and fork dropout eyelets is M5x.8mm so a tap with that thread size should be able to clean up your frame. As above, lube the tap and turn it slowly a quarter or half turn at a time and back up a bit as it tightens before turning it further. Also be sure you have it started straight.
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Old 08-07-22, 07:38 AM
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I am not recommending this, but, I have had a couple of situations like that where I was not sure if it was the threads or not. I used the correct size bolt, well lubed, and slowly and carefully advanced it a turn or two at a time, then backed it out, and repeated until the bolt was flush. It worked, and allowed removal and replacement with ease. Make sure it is staying centered while advancing it. If it starts to go off center stop, maybe try it once more. If it will not go in straight, the threads are definitely bad. I did this knowing it might not work, might make the threads worse. But, I figured if they were already off, I would have to have them tapped anyway.

I did this with a rear derailleur mount, but if I have to remove and replace it, there is still a spot where I have to slowly, carefully advance the bolt for a turn or two, but it works fine, otherwise.
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Old 08-07-22, 08:14 AM
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Very few drop out eyes don't use the M5 threading. Some have been M6, but these will see a M5 bolt nearly sliding through so i doubt this is what you have. Many older English (can you say "Raleigh") used a spec that was easily retapped to M5. Huret drop outs could be an unthreaded hole that can be tapped to M5.

One trick that sometimes helps is to run the tap through from the back side of the hole (I find this helpful with pedal/crank arms). Always use lube, chain lube in a pinch but true cutting fluid is best.

BTW when Blackburn first came onto the market their bolts were 10x32 (SAE) and had 1/8" hex wrench sockets. These are very close to M5 and if the hole was "loosely" threaded a reasonable interchange to M5.

M5 taps are made by any number of companies, most don't market to the bike world (Park being the obvious exception). Andy
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Old 08-07-22, 08:39 AM
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Plus one on the Harbor Freight or similar tap and die set and the lube with back and forth motion to break the chips. For most rethreading applications on a bike they should suffice and you will have a proper handle for taping and a diestock for chasing axles or whatnot. With a small tap like M5 you may be tempted to use a small adjustable wrench and while that can work, a tap handle is easier to control and keep straight.
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Old 08-08-22, 07:33 AM
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Oh... I may add you will want a tapered tap, not a plug or bottoming tap.
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Old 08-08-22, 09:14 AM
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Since you only need to clean out the threads you could go with a dremel and slice a groove on an allen bolt and use that for the clean out.
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Old 08-13-22, 04:29 PM
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Thanks for all the help. But I'm really confoosed, now. I have the tap that everyone says is the right size. It is 5mm x .8
Now, if it is the right size, shouldn't it mesh with the threads on the bolt? Shouldn't I be able to hold the tap next to the bolt, and the threads will fit perfectly? Also, shouldn't the tap fit cleanly through the nut with the same threads?

Because the threads of the tap do NOT align with the threads on the bolt. And the tap will NOT pass through the nut of the same size. Also, I (gently) tried to pass the tap through an eyelet on a frame that is not important. And the tap would NOT pass through the eyelet without force; I did not force it. But it would not even go in to the eyelet even two threads deep. And yes, it was going straight in.

Before I destroy the eyelets on the frame that I care about, I hope to know if what I am describing is the way it "should" be. Cause I am tres confoosed.

Thanks again.

Saul
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Old 08-13-22, 04:58 PM
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Take your bolt to a good hardware store and find a nut that fits it and you'll know what thread you're dealing with.

10/32 is very close to 5mm
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Old 08-13-22, 05:47 PM
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When confused and unsure it's best to have a pro give hands on help. Andy
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