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Birdy thread

Old 05-31-21, 03:09 AM
  #1551  
Jipe
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I think there is a misunderstanding about the type of Birdy.

JRat had a Riese & Müller Birdy City, not a Pacific Cycles Birdy 9SP STD.

The Birdy City from Riese & Müller has a Shimano Nexus IGH and like all R&M Birdy it has a hollow crankset.

The 2019 TI Birdy has a totally different crankset, its a FSA SLK-Light with integrated axle. Its not possible to use spacers with this crankset.

And also, the Ti Birdy frame is totally different from the Birdy 3 frame. All frame dimensions are different, even the wheel base is different, its about 20mm smaller than the Birdy 3 wheel base (I have a R&M Birdy 3 Touring and a Pacific Cycles TI Birdy 2019 and compared the two frames).
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Old 05-31-21, 03:20 AM
  #1552  
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Originally Posted by Jipe View Post
I think there is a misunderstanding about the type of Birdy.

JRat had a Riese & Müller Birdy City, not a Pacific Cycles Birdy 9SP STD.

The Birdy City from Riese & Müller has a Shimano Nexus IGH and like all R&M Birdy it has a hollow crankset.

The 2019 TI Birdy has a totally different crankset, its a FSA SLK-Light with integrated axle. Its not possible to use spacers with this crankset.

And also, the Ti Birdy frame is totally different from the Birdy 3 frame. All frame dimensions are different, even the wheel base is different, its about 20mm smaller than the Birdy 3 wheel base (I have a R&M Birdy 3 Touring and a Pacific Cycles TI Birdy 2019 and compared the two frames).
Good to know something new everyday. Thanks!

As for the Ti 2019. For those different things like the wheel base length and such, the drive chain system is basically the same. Same BB shell width, same rear wheel drop out width. Thus the chainline should be the same like any ordinary B3. And yet they chose that crankset that will cause the chain to scratch the FD. I can't take it as simply they are different so the problem happens on a premium bike.

What I wanted to say is, basically PC shouldn't have choosen that crankset from the beginning.

Last edited by BabyCowHK; 05-31-21 at 03:26 AM.
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Old 05-31-21, 04:05 AM
  #1553  
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They choose an high end race road crankset (which is almost the only high end component on this expensive high end bike) with the chainline of a race road bike but indeed they should have adapted the frame.

Now, the rest of the transmission isn't adapted to the small wheel size too.

The 11-28 cassette with the 52-36 chainring provide a too short gear inch. They should have mounted a 9-32 cassette like R&M does (or at least a 10-something cassette).

I haven't experienced the chain problem you mentioned because I immediately changed my wheels and have a rear wheel with a Hope RS4 hub with XDR freewheel and a 9-32 cassette and never need the very short 36 front - 32 rear combination.
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Old 06-20-21, 08:21 AM
  #1554  
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Hi, I'd like to ask the experienced Birdy riders here, please.

I just got a used Birdy 2 this afternoon. It's got hubsmith wheelsets. I just noticed that the front wheel spokes are asymmetrical, dished like a rear-wheel like it was meant for the rear but put on the front. When I rode it, it seemed that the wheel isn't in the centre but slightly off centre. Is that normal?

I've been riding foldies for the last 15 years. Had Dahons, KHS, Bike Fridays, Speed One, and this is my first Birdy. I've never seen anything like it on any other foldie before.
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Old 06-20-21, 11:53 AM
  #1555  
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Originally Posted by mu5k1pper View Post
When I rode it, it seemed that the wheel isn't in the centre but slightly off centre. Is that normal?
That doesn't sound right to me!
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Old 06-20-21, 01:15 PM
  #1556  
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I have Birdy front wheels laced with this Hubsmith front hub for Birdy disc the spokes are symmetrical and must be symmetrical to have the wheel centered (the front hub is specific for Birdy disc because the front disc is on the right side and closer to the center of the wheel than a standard disc front hub. Width is standard 100mm).

Birdy with rim brakes use a standard 100mm front hub.
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Old 07-01-21, 08:08 AM
  #1557  
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Thank you, for your response, yangmusa and jipe.

I can see it's centred but dished (and yet it seems to be riding off-centred). Perhaps its to accommodate a disc rotor.
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Old 07-01-21, 08:08 AM
  #1558  
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thanks, jipe, for the link to the pic. My hubs don't look like that. And I don't seem to be able to find which hubsmith model it is .

I think I'd better find out which shop the previous owner brought it to and ask the mechanic there. Many thanks!
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Old 07-01-21, 08:18 AM
  #1559  
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Reminds me of a little sports car... Like a Mini Moris... Fun Fun Fun!
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Old 07-16-21, 04:14 PM
  #1560  
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Schwalbe Blackjack size?

Anyone here has a Birdy with Blackjacks? I measured mine (freshly mounted) and they are 41mm wide, not 47mm as advertised. Just wondering if it's just mine?
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Old 07-17-21, 03:13 AM
  #1561  
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I got a used MKII Birdy Light, whose 56T single chainring I'd like to replace with a double eg. 56/40T.

Using a Litepro derailleur and a B-series Litepro clamp, it look like the fork won't move far enough outward to reach the outer ring.

According to the datasheet, the bottom bracket is a 113mm, TH BB-7420ST.

On a Birdy (Light), has someone successfully replaced the single chainring with a double? What derailleur did you use, and did you have to replace the bottom bracket for a wider one?

Thank you.

--
Edit: Another issue is the seat slides down unless I tighten the clamp really hard. Cleaning the seatpost + inside with a clean rag and degreaser didn't help much. Any idea what I could try?
--
Edit: One more question: Using this crank puller, I was unable to remove the crank, with the Birdy Light supposedly using a 68x113mm TH Industries BB-7420ST bottom bracket.

Should I try harder, or are there different pullers to match different square taper bottom bracket axles?


--
Edit: It was the right puller. The cranck was just super tight.

Last edited by Winfried; 07-19-21 at 03:28 PM.
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Old 07-21-21, 07:20 PM
  #1562  
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I am unsure about birdy 2 but birdy 3 uses a 68mm BSA threaded bottom bracket.... So either can use a 24mm crank or a 30mm crank depending on the crank spindle.
There are a few options available out there.
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Old 07-21-21, 07:26 PM
  #1563  
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I have the front wheel specs.... Let me see if i can find it for u
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Old 07-21-21, 07:27 PM
  #1564  
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Originally Posted by Jipe View Post
The only Birdy disc front hub measurements I have is for the front dynamo hub. For the wheel set I made, I used Hubsmith Birdy disc front hub with straight pull spokes (I couldn't find the same front hub as mounted by Riese & Müller).

This by any chance what u are looking for ?
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Old 07-21-21, 07:41 PM
  #1565  
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New Wheels for Birdy Disc

Originally Posted by Jipe View Post
I build a new set of wheels using an XDR compatible rear hub, a Hope RS4 135mm OLD 5mm quick release.

The rear wheel of the Birdy disc is standard 135mm OLD 5mm quick release.

I also build new front wheels because I changed the wheel size, I have now two sets of wheels with XDR hub, one in ETRTO349 (Brompton wheel size) and one in ETRTO406 20" wheel size.

The front wheel hub for a Birdy disc is a little bit more difficult because even if the 100mm OLD is standard, the disc mounting on the right side and closer to the center of the wheel than on a standard disc brake front wheel, so a specific Birdy disc front hub is needed.

Some rear hub have an exchangeable freewheel (its the case of the Hope) but none of the rear hubs mounted on the Birdy have that (excepted the Pacific Cycles 11SP Birdy with Hubsmith wheels).
Come on.... it not that hard to get a new set of wheels assuming you dun mind mismatch hubs.....
All you need is a birdy front disc hub which can be found here.....
https://www.cycletaiwan.com/circus-m...-disc-hub.html

For the rear you can choose any 135mm QR hubs out there..... Like DT Swiss 350 , White Industries etc.....
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Old 07-21-21, 07:50 PM
  #1566  
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Originally Posted by Jipe View Post
I have a Birdy III with the H&H front block adapter and it didn't move down, even with the front bag heavily loaded.

Yes, please publish the video if you can or send me a message with a link to i if you cannot.

For the easy wheel, when i wrote "Brompton easy wheel" I was meaning any easy wheel for Brompton with a M6 bolt, not made/sold by Brompton.

The only limitation is if you want to put a rear pannier on the rear rack and have relatively big feet. Then to avoid to hit the pannier with the heels, you need to put the pannier very much to the rear, and easy wheels above 45mm in diameter do not allow to put the pannier at the rear end of the rear expedition rack.

Hi ,

Link as requested....

https://www.dropbox.com/s/1fiyp60u1vd311b/Test.mp4?dl=0
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Old 07-21-21, 11:54 PM
  #1567  
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Originally Posted by Samidare View Post
For the rear you can choose any 135mm QR hubs out there..... Like DT Swiss 350 , White Industries etc.....
It depends of what type of cassette you want to mount.

For a small wheel bike and without a bigger than usual chainring (60 or 65t that anyway isn't compatible with the new Birdy chain tensionner) a cassette with a smaller cog of 9t or 10t is needed (as mounted by R&M on the Birdy Touring).

The classic Shimano/SRAM freewheel body is limited to 11t as smallest cog.

R&M was using the now discontinued Shimano Capreo 9s system and is now using a Sunrace system (R&M use the 10s one, there is also a 11s)..

Another option that I have chosen is to use the SRAM XDR system.

Dropbox is not safe, can you post it somewhere else ?

For the Birdy disc front hub, there are indeed some options, also Hubsmith and Ridea but not easy to really buy.

Last edited by Jipe; 07-22-21 at 12:28 AM.
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Old 07-22-21, 03:15 AM
  #1568  
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Originally Posted by Jipe View Post
It depends of what type of cassette you want to mount.

For a small wheel bike and without a bigger than usual chainring (60 or 65t that anyway isn't compatible with the new Birdy chain tensionner) a cassette with a smaller cog of 9t or 10t is needed (as mounted by R&M on the Birdy Touring).

The classic Shimano/SRAM freewheel body is limited to 11t as smallest cog.

R&M was using the now discontinued Shimano Capreo 9s system and is now using a Sunrace system (R&M use the 10s one, there is also a 11s)..

Another option that I have chosen is to use the SRAM XDR system.

Dropbox is not safe, can you post it somewhere else ?

For the Birdy disc front hub, there are indeed some options, also Hubsmith and Ridea but not easy to really buy.
This work for you ?

Front disc hubs if u want to buy a set yes it will be expensive.... Hubsmith , Ridea , Bzwheels all have hubs that will work on birdy disc.
However i would recommend getting the front hub and rear hub separately as it is easier to source the rear hub from your local wheel builder then it is to buy the entire set and ship it.
Besides u only need the front hub which u can get online easily and if need be the bearings can be changed to match the rear ones.
However if u insist on matching the hubs then it will be expensive I must.

If you choose to go with SRAM XDR system then Ridea and BZWheels are out for now.... That means u only left with hubsmith.
Alternatively get the front hub online and u can get a better rear hub to build the customs wheels at almost the same costs..
Just Saying
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Old 07-22-21, 03:55 AM
  #1569  
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I can buy Ridea and Hubsmith Birdy disc front hub separately.

For the rear hub, as said the problem is to have a freewheel body that accepts a smaller cog with less than 11t. Besides Sunrace and its proprietary body derived from the old Shimano Capreo, there are now SRAM with XD/XDR, Shimano Microspline and Campagnolo N3W

Thanks for the video.

But this Brompton front block adapter for Birdy is not the H&H adapter that I have, see picture below from the website of Bikegang (mine is slightly different from the first picture, it is like the second 3D drawing).

As you can see, the angle of the Brompton block is very different on the two adapters, on your it is much more vertical.

When I turn the fork, it also slightly pushes on the clip but not enough to unlock it and it only happen at a big fork angle that never happens when riding.



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