82 Miyata 1000 with stripped pedal threads
#1
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82 Miyata 1000 with stripped pedal threads
I just purchased for cheap a nice 82 Miyata 1000 from my local cp-op. I see now why it was donated, as a cheap pedal was cross threaded into the left crank arm, and the right crankarm was worse as it was JB welded in. Searching, I see insert kits and such, and also reference to my friendly LBS doing such a repair. It is/was a nice looking SR Super Apex 86 bcd half step plus granny. Bike is otherwise all stock with little use and cheap new replacement tires on it. Not sure how I will proceed.
I will post pics when cleaned up on the valuation page and maybe on the sales page, as it is the 63cm size which is a bit big for me. It does have a shorter top tube. Bike had been sitting for 3 years, and the frame is probably worth what I paid. My plan was to take this bike to a swap meet next weekend, so I am somewhat glad I discovered the problem as I don’t want to hide something from someone. I just got tired of seeing such a fine bike sitting there waiting for someone to trash it as a beater.
I will post pics when cleaned up on the valuation page and maybe on the sales page, as it is the 63cm size which is a bit big for me. It does have a shorter top tube. Bike had been sitting for 3 years, and the frame is probably worth what I paid. My plan was to take this bike to a swap meet next weekend, so I am somewhat glad I discovered the problem as I don’t want to hide something from someone. I just got tired of seeing such a fine bike sitting there waiting for someone to trash it as a beater.
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I'd just slap another crankset on and call it good.
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I just purchased for cheap a nice 82 Miyata 1000 from my local cp-op. I see now why it was donated, as a cheap pedal was cross threaded into the left crank arm, and the right crankarm was worse as it was JB welded in. Searching, I see insert kits and such, and also reference to my friendly LBS doing such a repair. It is/was a nice looking SR Super Apex 86 bcd half step plus granny. Bike is otherwise all stock with little use and cheap new replacement tires on it. Not sure how I will proceed.
I will post pics when cleaned up on the valuation page and maybe on the sales page, as it is the 63cm size which is a bit big for me. It does have a shorter top tube. Bike had been sitting for 3 years, and the frame is probably worth what I paid. My plan was to take this bike to a swap meet next weekend, so I am somewhat glad I discovered the problem as I don’t want to hide something from someone. I just got tired of seeing such a fine bike sitting there waiting for someone to trash it as a beater.
I will post pics when cleaned up on the valuation page and maybe on the sales page, as it is the 63cm size which is a bit big for me. It does have a shorter top tube. Bike had been sitting for 3 years, and the frame is probably worth what I paid. My plan was to take this bike to a swap meet next weekend, so I am somewhat glad I discovered the problem as I don’t want to hide something from someone. I just got tired of seeing such a fine bike sitting there waiting for someone to trash it as a beater.
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I know about just slapping on the crankset and that will surely be the cure but it’s a small co-op so none there. Bike swap meet next weekend but mostly catering to vintage balloon tire bikes formerly sponsored by Memory Lane Classics in NW Ohio. The real tragedy is that the bike is ALL STOCK right down to the foam grips, Avocet touring saddle, both racks, and even the owners manual. It would be nice to bite the bullet and see if a repair to those pretty cranks can be done. If not, I might just pirate the front rack for my 89.
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Edit. Yes nice cranks and they'll be one along soon enough. Lot's of triples available until you find one.
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I'm hoping the Memory Lane swap picks up some of the vendors from Ann Arbor, since they were canceled. I'll be heading over on Thursday morning.
#8
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I know about just slapping on the crankset and that will surely be the cure but it’s a small co-op so none there. Bike swap meet next weekend but mostly catering to vintage balloon tire bikes formerly sponsored by Memory Lane Classics in NW Ohio. The real tragedy is that the bike is ALL STOCK right down to the foam grips, Avocet touring saddle, both racks, and even the owners manual. It would be nice to bite the bullet and see if a repair to those pretty cranks can be done. If not, I might just pirate the front rack for my 89.
I'm in North Canton
#9
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Steve, if it doesn't sell this weekend, I have a couple of suitable triple cranksets laying around in my parts bin... I'd have to see what exactly they are though...
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Thanks for the replies and some offers. Bike show is in Bowling Green Ohio at the fairgrounds May 6-9th. Toledo Ohio craigslist had a flyer posting a couple days ago. Traditionally the vendors like to pack up Friday but I have read that there is a flea market going on that weekend too, so maybe they will stick around a bit longer. Internet shows a tool with taps and inserts, so maybe the LBS has that. Pics on weekend when cleaned up a bit. Bearings and such have been fine on disassembly so far. Interesting difference between this 82 and my 89.
An interesting aside is about the size. At 5’10” I ride 57-58 cm. My 89 is a 57, but my stem and seat tube adjustments show that I could ride a 60 with that bike. The 63cm has a 34” stand over, but the top tube is closer to 58cm and the seat tube is closer to 62 or less. Interesting how the frame angles can throw some of the sizing rules aside. Fun to work on such a fine machine either way.
An interesting aside is about the size. At 5’10” I ride 57-58 cm. My 89 is a 57, but my stem and seat tube adjustments show that I could ride a 60 with that bike. The 63cm has a 34” stand over, but the top tube is closer to 58cm and the seat tube is closer to 62 or less. Interesting how the frame angles can throw some of the sizing rules aside. Fun to work on such a fine machine either way.
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Pics on valuation site
As promised, I cleaned the bike up just a bit and posted pics and asked for values. Milo, I may take you up on a crank, unless perhaps I find one at the swap meet, or sell the bike as it is. I am going Saturday morning as I am a working man. The action with that crowd is Thursday and Friday, but I am hoping some stick around for the weekend.
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Can you post a picture or link to the exact crankset?
Re-threading is imo a machine-shop operation, due to the need for keeping the pedal axis perfectly parallel with the bottom bracket axis.
On the other hand, I've used stripped crankarms for long periods of mtb use after using LocTite red to secure the pedal threads and after counter-sinking the crankarm to allow a couple of inner threads to engage. I was shocked how well this worked (found the LX crankset in the trash). The trick was to make it clean and to literally fill the annular space between threaded parts with no air space. I cured it fast using a hair drier then left it for 24hrs.
I subsequently removed the pedal with a wrench to facilitate pedal bearing service, re-did the "glue" job and ride it to this day.
It might also be helpful to first source pedals with slightly longer threading, but I used SPD pedals and simply increased the threaded engagement by countersinking the hole slightly. I didn't need to adjust my cleats at all to give shoe clearance to the arm.
Re-threading is imo a machine-shop operation, due to the need for keeping the pedal axis perfectly parallel with the bottom bracket axis.
On the other hand, I've used stripped crankarms for long periods of mtb use after using LocTite red to secure the pedal threads and after counter-sinking the crankarm to allow a couple of inner threads to engage. I was shocked how well this worked (found the LX crankset in the trash). The trick was to make it clean and to literally fill the annular space between threaded parts with no air space. I cured it fast using a hair drier then left it for 24hrs.
I subsequently removed the pedal with a wrench to facilitate pedal bearing service, re-did the "glue" job and ride it to this day.
It might also be helpful to first source pedals with slightly longer threading, but I used SPD pedals and simply increased the threaded engagement by countersinking the hole slightly. I didn't need to adjust my cleats at all to give shoe clearance to the arm.
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Actually the drive side crank arm is beyond stripped as a 9/16 pedal will just go right in and touch no metal. It was held in by JB Weld. The non drive side Is cross threaded on an angle. I saw some videos of a Unior threading kit that the die first opens the whole up to 5/8” and then cuts the threads for an insert that is the proper 9/16” size. It seemed like an acceptable solution for even a hobbyist but isn’t financially practical for one crank unless it was something pretty special. I would think that shops that deal a lot with vintage stuff may even have these. I believe I saw another brand too. I wonder if this service is available with sending cranks out somewhere.
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A decent mechanic/machinest can add a helicoil insert that would hold, it you want to keep it original. It shouldn't be fussy and too expensive, relative to replacement.
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#16
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As promised, I cleaned the bike up just a bit and posted pics and asked for values. Milo, I may take you up on a crank, unless perhaps I find one at the swap meet, or sell the bike as it is. I am going Saturday morning as I am a working man. The action with that crowd is Thursday and Friday, but I am hoping some stick around for the weekend.
I'll have to dig to find the other one - but if I am remembering it right it is modern enough that it has pins. .. I seem to remember that it might have steel chainrings... I probably bought it new ~20 years ago to have a replacement should one of my square-taper triples go bad/ wear out, but it is still unused.