All Original or Period Correct
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
All Original or Period Correct
I have a bike that I started mountain biking on in the early 90's. I upgraded a couple of parts like the stem and seat, was wondering if I pull it out off storage and restore it should I try and put it back to all original or period correct? To be honest it is probably has more sentimental value than street value. I don't believe I would ever sell it, more worried my daughters are going to sell my bikes in a garage sell and not care about what they are actually worth. Ultimately want to make my first mountain bike a wall hanger.
Likes For Cactus459:
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Fredericksburg, Va
Posts: 9,580
Bikes: '65 Frejus TDF, '73 Bottecchia Giro d'Italia, '83 Colnago Superissimo, '84 Trek 610, '84 Trek 760, '88 Pinarello Veneto, '88 De Rosa Pro, '89 Pinarello Montello, '94 Burley Duet, 97 Specialized RockHopper, 2010 Langster, Tern Link D8
Mentioned: 73 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1601 Post(s)
Liked 2,187 Times
in
1,092 Posts
I think you ansered your question with the wall hanger statement - original.
__________________
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
Likes For SJX426:
#3
Bike Butcher of Portland
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 11,638
Bikes: It's complicated.
Mentioned: 1299 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4667 Post(s)
Liked 5,764 Times
in
2,270 Posts
Whatever you want. It's your bike. Those that want a bike all original are treating their bike as museum pieces, not that there's anything wrong with that.
"Back in the day" there were a lot of production bikes that were purchased and upgraded before a single mile was ridden. Proof of this is my first "real" bike purchased in 1975 - Raleigh Super Course MkII.
I rejected original equipment then.
As far as period correct goes, why limit yourself? I've built up several vintage frames with more modern componentry. If a bottom bracket is pulled out, I almost always replace it with a modern sealed model. I'll use OEM or period correct parts if they're good.
You'll get many opinions here, but at the end of the day, just follow your bliss. If riding on original equipment makes you happy, do so. If you prefer the performance of a modern part, go for it.
The only rules are the ones you place on yourself.
"Back in the day" there were a lot of production bikes that were purchased and upgraded before a single mile was ridden. Proof of this is my first "real" bike purchased in 1975 - Raleigh Super Course MkII.
I rejected original equipment then.
As far as period correct goes, why limit yourself? I've built up several vintage frames with more modern componentry. If a bottom bracket is pulled out, I almost always replace it with a modern sealed model. I'll use OEM or period correct parts if they're good.
You'll get many opinions here, but at the end of the day, just follow your bliss. If riding on original equipment makes you happy, do so. If you prefer the performance of a modern part, go for it.
The only rules are the ones you place on yourself.
__________________
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
Likes For gugie:
#4
Le Crocodile
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Santa Barbara Calif.
Posts: 1,873
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 367 Post(s)
Liked 771 Times
in
311 Posts
I vote for original. If it will be relegated to "wall hanger" status anyway, why bother faking the funk.
If I still had my original race MTB, I would surely retain the Syncros stem and seatpost that always worked loose as a constant reminder that "fancy parts" are not always good components, and that was the issue that haunted me every ride. The bars were from a box store bike because I had run out of money at the end of the build and slapped some cheapos (they were aluminum at least.........) to get by and then never bothered to upgrade as the fit was perfect. That was my bike, and swapping stuff out now would alter the history (insignificant, but hey).
If I still had my original race MTB, I would surely retain the Syncros stem and seatpost that always worked loose as a constant reminder that "fancy parts" are not always good components, and that was the issue that haunted me every ride. The bars were from a box store bike because I had run out of money at the end of the build and slapped some cheapos (they were aluminum at least.........) to get by and then never bothered to upgrade as the fit was perfect. That was my bike, and swapping stuff out now would alter the history (insignificant, but hey).
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,600
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18319 Post(s)
Liked 4,487 Times
in
3,337 Posts
For my old Colnago... even if I could track down many of the original parts, so many have worn out over the years that putting it back to "original" would be just building a wreck.
Spokes pulled through the rim, brake levers that don't hold the cables anymore, ripped seat covers... Gawd, what happened to all those rolls of bar tape... pitted cones, broken seat post binder bolts, broken chainrings, worn chainrings, busted chains, worn freewheels, ... flatted and blown tires, ... Rear derailleur in the spokes, front derailleur cage worn in half.
I suppose I could make a good wall hanging of worn out parts.
Some parts might be able to be repaired. Who here is recommending welding cracked spoke holes? Perhaps I could get that cable attachment pivot out of the brake levers and replace.
Spokes pulled through the rim, brake levers that don't hold the cables anymore, ripped seat covers... Gawd, what happened to all those rolls of bar tape... pitted cones, broken seat post binder bolts, broken chainrings, worn chainrings, busted chains, worn freewheels, ... flatted and blown tires, ... Rear derailleur in the spokes, front derailleur cage worn in half.
I suppose I could make a good wall hanging of worn out parts.
Some parts might be able to be repaired. Who here is recommending welding cracked spoke holes? Perhaps I could get that cable attachment pivot out of the brake levers and replace.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Posts: 9,848
Bikes: Kirk Custom JK Special, '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque
Mentioned: 104 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2302 Post(s)
Liked 2,736 Times
in
1,497 Posts
Under stand sentimental value. Will you ever ride this bike....even for utility and errands? (personally I like that idea ) if so put some slicks on it, ride and remember it glory trail days.
if it was high end or unique or if you just want to and don't plan on riding go original and find the wall where it will look best
if it was high end or unique or if you just want to and don't plan on riding go original and find the wall where it will look best
__________________
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Alta California
Posts: 14,317
Mentioned: 414 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3779 Post(s)
Liked 3,283 Times
in
2,145 Posts
Whatever you want. It's your bike. Those that want a bike all original are treating their bike as museum pieces, not that there's anything wrong with that.
"Back in the day" there were a lot of production bikes that were purchased and upgraded before a single mile was ridden. Proof of this is my first "real" bike purchased in 1975 - Raleigh Super Course MkII.
I rejected original equipment then.
As far as period correct goes, why limit yourself? I've built up several vintage frames with more modern componentry. If a bottom bracket is pulled out, I almost always replace it with a modern sealed model. I'll use OEM or period correct parts if they're good.
You'll get many opinions here, but at the end of the day, just follow your bliss. If riding on original equipment makes you happy, do so. If you prefer the performance of a modern part, go for it.
The only rules are the ones you place on yourself.
"Back in the day" there were a lot of production bikes that were purchased and upgraded before a single mile was ridden. Proof of this is my first "real" bike purchased in 1975 - Raleigh Super Course MkII.
I rejected original equipment then.
As far as period correct goes, why limit yourself? I've built up several vintage frames with more modern componentry. If a bottom bracket is pulled out, I almost always replace it with a modern sealed model. I'll use OEM or period correct parts if they're good.
You'll get many opinions here, but at the end of the day, just follow your bliss. If riding on original equipment makes you happy, do so. If you prefer the performance of a modern part, go for it.
The only rules are the ones you place on yourself.
Gugieficazione right from the outset!
-----
#8
Bike Butcher of Portland
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 11,638
Bikes: It's complicated.
Mentioned: 1299 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4667 Post(s)
Liked 5,764 Times
in
2,270 Posts
Likes For gugie:
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada - burrrrr!
Posts: 11,672
Bikes: 1958 Rabeneick 120D, 1968 Legnano Gran Premio, 196? Torpado Professional, 2000 Marinoni Piuma
Mentioned: 210 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1370 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,743 Times
in
934 Posts
Wall hanger = original, absolutely! I do this sort of thing quite often. If not hung up as original it becomes just another mountain bike, in my opinion.
__________________
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
Likes For randyjawa:
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Alta California
Posts: 14,317
Mentioned: 414 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3779 Post(s)
Liked 3,283 Times
in
2,145 Posts
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Posts: 9,848
Bikes: Kirk Custom JK Special, '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque
Mentioned: 104 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2302 Post(s)
Liked 2,736 Times
in
1,497 Posts
#12
Newbie
Thread Starter
Pulled from storage
Under stand sentimental value. Will you ever ride this bike....even for utility and errands? (personally I like that idea ) if so put some slicks on it, ride and remember it glory trail days.
if it was high end or unique or if you just want to and don't plan on riding go original and find the wall where it will look best
if it was high end or unique or if you just want to and don't plan on riding go original and find the wall where it will look best
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada - burrrrr!
Posts: 11,672
Bikes: 1958 Rabeneick 120D, 1968 Legnano Gran Premio, 196? Torpado Professional, 2000 Marinoni Piuma
Mentioned: 210 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1370 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,743 Times
in
934 Posts
__________________
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
#14
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 8,484
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3846 Post(s)
Liked 6,437 Times
in
3,183 Posts
What's a "wall hanger"? A bike you don't ride? Why? Does it not fit? Too out of shape? Dead?
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,768
Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1935 Post(s)
Liked 2,148 Times
in
1,312 Posts
The real question is how much money do you want to spend?
If you only need a few components, it might not be too bad.
If you need a complete restoration, bring cash and plenty of it. The demand for 90’s mtb’s is pretty nuts. You might get lucky at a co-op or find a donor bike. But it is not going to be a process of going on eBay and finding that old XT derailleur in great shape and having a half dozen to choose from for $15-$20.
John
If you only need a few components, it might not be too bad.
If you need a complete restoration, bring cash and plenty of it. The demand for 90’s mtb’s is pretty nuts. You might get lucky at a co-op or find a donor bike. But it is not going to be a process of going on eBay and finding that old XT derailleur in great shape and having a half dozen to choose from for $15-$20.
John
Likes For 2cam16:
#17
Newbie
Thread Starter
Wall hanger
I have multiple bikes to choose from when I want to go out and ride. I realized I still had my first mountain bike in storage and wanted to breathe some life back into it. I have all the original parts and was wondering what others would do with it? Leave the upgrades or put the original parts back on it? I want to leave it in the garage in working order on the wall so hopefully it will get riden once in a while.
#18
Newbie
Thread Starter
How much money
The real question is how much money do you want to spend?
If you only need a few components, it might not be too bad.
If you need a complete restoration, bring cash and plenty of it. The demand for 90’s mtb’s is pretty nuts. You might get lucky at a co-op or find a donor bike. But it is not going to be a process of going on eBay and finding that old XT derailleur in great shape and having a half dozen to choose from for $15-$20.
John
If you only need a few components, it might not be too bad.
If you need a complete restoration, bring cash and plenty of it. The demand for 90’s mtb’s is pretty nuts. You might get lucky at a co-op or find a donor bike. But it is not going to be a process of going on eBay and finding that old XT derailleur in great shape and having a half dozen to choose from for $15-$20.
John
#19
small ring
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: PNW
Posts: 1,030
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 437 Post(s)
Liked 925 Times
in
370 Posts
If I had all the parts then definitely original
__________________
72 Bob Jackson -- 74 Motobecane Grand Jubile -- 74 Sekine SHS 271 -- 80 Nishiki International
85 Shogun 800 -- 86 Tommasini Super Prestige -- 92 Specialized Rockhopper -- 17 Colnago Arabesque
72 Bob Jackson -- 74 Motobecane Grand Jubile -- 74 Sekine SHS 271 -- 80 Nishiki International
85 Shogun 800 -- 86 Tommasini Super Prestige -- 92 Specialized Rockhopper -- 17 Colnago Arabesque
Likes For droppedandlost:
#20
Habitual User
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Altadena, CA
Posts: 7,785
Bikes: 2023 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2018 Trek Procaliber 9.9 RSL, 2018 Storck Fascenario.3 Platinum, 2003 Time VX Special Pro, 2001 Colnago VIP, 1999 Trek 9900 singlespeed, 1977 Nishiki ONP
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4828 Post(s)
Liked 7,819 Times
in
3,704 Posts
I recently debated about what to do with my old MTB race bike that has been sitting mostly unused for about 20 years. I would never consider getting rid of it. I considered updating it with a newer drivetrain, but really didn't want to invest that much into a project. I decided to go a completely different direction - SINGLESPEED! It's been a wonderful change of scenery, attitude, and approach compared with my typical diet of go-fast road rides. Most recently, my ride days have been pretty split between this bike and my road machine. So much fun!!
__________________
"Swedish fish. They're protein shaped." - livedarklions
"Swedish fish. They're protein shaped." - livedarklions
Likes For Eric F:
#21
feros ferio
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Posts: 21,764
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
Mentioned: 44 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1384 Post(s)
Liked 1,293 Times
in
819 Posts
I draw the "original" line at gearing, because I have rarely kept the original gear ratios on any bike I have ever purchased. When we sold PA-10s, PR-10s, an PX-10s at a Peugeot/Nishiki dealership, they rarely went out the door with the original 52-45 / 14-15-17-19-21 gearing. 14-26 or 14-28 freewheel substitutions were very popular, as were 40T or 42T inner chainrings on the PRs and PXs. (The PA-10s used cottered steel cranks with the Simplex 3-to-6-bolt adapters, limiting the small ring to 45T or larger. Some folks scrapped these and installed paired rings in which the outer, 3-bolt, ring carried an inner ring as small as 36T.)
When I brought my 1971 American Eagle Semi-Pro (Nishiki Competition) home, I replaced the padded vinyl saddle with my trusty old Ideale leather one, prompting my friend to remark, "All the discomforts of home." It saw numerous regearings over the years.
When I brought my 1971 American Eagle Semi-Pro (Nishiki Competition) home, I replaced the padded vinyl saddle with my trusty old Ideale leather one, prompting my friend to remark, "All the discomforts of home." It saw numerous regearings over the years.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#22
Senior Member
When you reach my age (don't ask!), "all original" translates to "unrideable", mostly thanks to vintage gearing. 42x21 bottom gear? It is to laugh!
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Humboldt County, CA
Posts: 848
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 405 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 430 Times
in
286 Posts
If it's been your bike since new, and you did some upgrades back when, have you considered building it out with all of the parts you'd have bought for it then if you'd had the bread?
--Shannon
--Shannon
Likes For ShannonM:
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 3,425
Bikes: 1984 Miyata 310, 1986 Schwinn Sierra, 2011 Jamis Quest, 1980 Peugeot TH8 Tandem, 1992 Performance Parabola, 1987 Ross Mt. Hood, 1988 Schwinn LeTour, 1988 Trek 400T, 1981 Fuji S12-S LTD, 197? FW Evans
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 521 Post(s)
Liked 943 Times
in
495 Posts
I would keep the upgrades you made while still using the bike regularly, they are part of its history. The same goes for wear and tear on the frame. As long as it is still functioning well, I would keep the bike just as you remembered it.