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Removing 3 Sturmey-Archer speed hub rebuild

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Removing 3 Sturmey-Archer speed hub rebuild

Old 03-31-20, 02:26 AM
  #26  
JaccoW
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I like MonkeyShred's video on a Sturmey Archer AW 3-speed overhaul. As you can tell in this video this hub really doesn't need to be handled with soft gloves. A hammer and punch is the preferred method for some parts.
Personally, I have taken a 3-speed apart a couple of times and rebuild a 5-speed last year. The tricky part is opening things up but other than that there is not a lot you can do wrong.

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Old 03-31-20, 02:49 PM
  #27  
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It's still a work in progress. The R.H. ball Ring (I think that's it) is seized (approx 3:25 on the video). You should see my knuckles. Soaking it in PB Blaster then a few judicious strikes with a hammer and punch. It will come.

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Old 03-31-20, 03:42 PM
  #28  
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Did you get your sprocket off? You may have to hit the screwdriver harder than you think. You probably won't wreck it but be prepared. Wear glasses, and whack a thin blade screwdriver into the space between the notch and the lockring. Then once it's wedged under, hold onto it tight and pry hard. Be strong, and you'll get it.

I recommend you don't try to revive those rims, even though I left a previous comment to the opposite effect. Your spokes are probably seized and corroding, so it's time for some rebuilds. If you haven't built wheels yet, we will walk you through it. This hub is worth rebuilding on, and the new rims and spokes are nicer than the old ones ever were.
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Old 04-01-20, 07:14 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by WGB
It's still a work in progress. The R.H. ball Ring (I think that's it) is seized (approx 3:25 on the video). You should see my knuckles. Soaking it in PB Blaster then a few judicious strikes with a hammer and punch. It will come.
I've found using a brass punch is better than steel. First, the softer brass conforms to the notch and won't slide off as easily when hammering. Secondly (and really important) brass will not damage the notch. My punch is just a 6" length of brass rod tapered at the end. Don't be tentative when hammering, you need a sharp blow to start it moving.

Good luck.
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Old 04-01-20, 09:10 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Moe Zhoost
I've found using a brass punch is better than steel. First, the softer brass conforms to the notch and won't slide off as easily when hammering. Secondly (and really important) brass will not damage the notch. My punch is just a 6" length of brass rod tapered at the end. Don't be tentative when hammering, you need a sharp blow to start it moving.

Good luck.
This is especially true of the newer models that have a scallop shaped notch. The older style with the square cut notch are ok with a steel punch.
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Old 10-27-23, 09:16 AM
  #31  
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After reading this thread, I decided to take the plunge, I used #8D finishing nails threaded through the left and right hand spoke holes to stop it from rotating in the vise. That, two days of soaking in Blaster and a large hammer.
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Old 11-01-23, 03:48 PM
  #32  
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It will be easier to test your hub rebuild if the spokes are not cut.
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Old 11-01-23, 04:16 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by oldbobcat
It will be easier to test your hub rebuild if the spokes are not cut.
In my case, the hub was in a parts bin, not part of a wheel assembly. I wanted to become familiar with the process before tackling the rear wheel on my Robinhood. The parts bin hub internal unit has been fully disassembled and cleaned using a sonic cleaner. Should be re-assembled this weekend and ready to test in the Robinhood wheel.
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Old 11-02-23, 10:39 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by WGB
I was given two early 70's Raleigh Sports





They have seriously rusted rims and I can't see trying to save the rims but wanted to see if the internal hubs are worth saving and rebuilding. I've never taken apart one of these but there are a lot of how to videos available. Problem is all the videos start with the hubs already free from their rims.

I'm pretty sure that it's okay to simply cut out a Sturmey Archer hub (unlike a hub with a cassette or freewheel attached) but wanted to check first.

Do I need to leave the hubs attached to the rims to start the dismantle process?
You probably won't need to do anything to the hubs, except maybe add a drop of oil. The rims look good enough, just cosmetically challenged. Have you ridden the bikes? They look little-used, might not even need cables, and rust on the chain side plates is also just cosmetic as long as the links free up with oiling.
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