Gap between steerer tube and expander plug
#1
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Gap between steerer tube and expander plug
Today i removed the stem and came to find out that there's a huge gap between the carbon steerer tube and the top of the expander plug. I unscrewed it then screwed it back as per the spec (4Nm) but the gap is still the same. However, there's a 3mm gap when the stem is in place. Is there anything to worry about?
Please advise.
Thanks
Please advise.
Thanks
#2
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That plug needs to be flush with the steerer; sometimes the plug pulls out when attempting to preload the headset, watch for this. Grease goes on the beveled part of the plug but nowhere else, especially not in the steerer.
Carbon doesn't like being clamped near the edge, so the stem then goes flush with the steerer. To get the gap we need, we add a 5mm spacer on top of this, then the cap.
Carbon doesn't like being clamped near the edge, so the stem then goes flush with the steerer. To get the gap we need, we add a 5mm spacer on top of this, then the cap.
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#3
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That plug needs to be flush with the steerer; sometimes the plug pulls out when attempting to preload the headset, watch for this. Grease goes on the beveled part of the plug but nowhere else, especially not in the steerer.
Carbon doesn't like being clamped near the edge, so the stem then goes flush with the steerer. To get the gap we need, we add a 5mm spacer on top of this, then the cap.
Carbon doesn't like being clamped near the edge, so the stem then goes flush with the steerer. To get the gap we need, we add a 5mm spacer on top of this, then the cap.
Thanks
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Take it to a shop.
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I loosened the 8mm hex key, placed a credit card on top then smashed it 3 times with a bottle of shampoo and the expander came lose. But I could not pull it out even it's lose. So I just tightened it to 4Nm and it's all good now. Stem gap is now 6mm I hope it is ok. Thanks.
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I think (but maybe I'm wrong) that cxwrench may be referring to the fact that your top stem clamp is only half supported by the steerer tube/expander. Lowering the stem a few millimeters will give it full clamping support and less likelihood of the stem forming a crack at that spot over time. Maybe a little too cautious but could be a very expensive failure if not.
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You can find long plugs which give you more flexibility in achieving this.
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#10
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What puzzles me is that this is a new bike which means the factory did not install it properly. The top cap screw is also very tight when I removed it the first time.
Is it normal the fork clunks at sudden front hard brake? I rocked it back and forth after tightening the stem screws and couldn't eliminate the clunk.
Is it normal the fork clunks at sudden front hard brake? I rocked it back and forth after tightening the stem screws and couldn't eliminate the clunk.
Last edited by ScreamingB; 07-03-21 at 08:31 PM. Reason: typo
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How to Fix a Loose Threadless Bicycle Headset - Road Bike Rider Cycling Site
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What puzzles me is that this is a new bike which means the factory did not install it properly. The top cap screw is also very tight when I removed it the first time.
Is it normal the fork clunks at sudden front hard brake? I rocked it back and forth after tightening the stem screws and couldn't eliminate the clunk.
Is it normal the fork clunks at sudden front hard brake? I rocked it back and forth after tightening the stem screws and couldn't eliminate the clunk.
#16
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1. Bought the bike
2. Took bike for first ride and noticed fork clunk when going up hill. Got my back hurt too due to the aggressive negative angle stem.
3. Flip stem, when removing the top cap screw, it was very tight. Top part of compression plug was stuck with the screw. I didn't know it because i thought that's normal. (Never seen a compression plug before)
4. After flipping stem, fork still clunk. Decided to disassemble headset. To my surprise, the top cap screw detached from the top part of compression plug. This lead me to notice the big gap between the steerer tube and compression plug.
So I'm pretty sure i didn't mess things up. The top cap screw was overtightened in the shop thus pulling the compression plug up. 🤩
Now after i hammered the compression plug flush with the steerer tube, the stem gap appears to be too much (~6mm). Isn't this obvious the factory mess something up?
Note: I cannot bring the bike back to the shop due to covid lockdown.
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Good luck
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#18
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No. Perhaps the headset is loose. Follow the instructions here:
How to Fix a Loose Threadless Bicycle Headset - Road Bike Rider Cycling Site
How to Fix a Loose Threadless Bicycle Headset - Road Bike Rider Cycling Site
#19
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Ordered the Spank spacer set which consists of 12mm, 6mm and 3mm totalling 21mm
Going to swap them when they arrived 👍🏼
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What is the bike?
Many bikes have really tall steer tubes when new. It may have been your local dealer that cut the steer tube,and left the plug sticking out.
Many bikes have really tall steer tubes when new. It may have been your local dealer that cut the steer tube,and left the plug sticking out.
#21
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Giant Escape 1 Disc. Possible, but I believe the bike is almost fully assembled in the factory. Watched some unboxing videos and the stem is already installed when they remove the bike from the box.
#22
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No. Perhaps the headset is loose. Follow the instructions here:
How to Fix a Loose Threadless Bicycle Headset - Road Bike Rider Cycling Site
How to Fix a Loose Threadless Bicycle Headset - Road Bike Rider Cycling Site
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It is odd that their spacers and steer tube length don't match well.
I'm surprised it has front and rear quick release hubs. Make sure the front QR is locked down tight.
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Did not expect a QR wheel on a new bike with disc brakes; thought that was only for bikes made a few years ago.
#25
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Thanks. What's up with QR wheel on new bike with disc brakes? Is there anything i should watch out for?