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Serotta content -- C&V enough?

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Old 03-30-17, 07:55 AM
  #1  
icepick_trotsky 
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Serotta content -- C&V enough?

I picked up this Serotta cyclocross frame from Craiglist for a song based on a forum member's hot tip. I believe it dates from the late 90's or early 00's based on the 1" headtube. It probably originally had a threaded fork, but it was replaced by a threadless Independent Fabrications fork by the previous owner.

Ordinarily, I would think a frame of this age is not C&V enough, but cyclocross bikes have changed dramatically in the last few years -- tapered headtubes, discs, hydraulic braking, thru axles, 1x narrow wide chainrings, clutch derailleurs, et cetera.

That makes a rim brake cross frame basically an antique, right?

I built it with:
--Chorus 11 group
--Thomson stem and post
--Chris King headset
--Zipp SL88 bars
--Paul mini moto front brake and Paul neo retro rear
--Record 11 hubs on Mavic Open Pro rims, 32 spoke, 3x
--Challenge Strada Bianca tires


















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Old 03-30-17, 08:38 AM
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I love me some Serottas. Why the brake setup? I've heard of shorty cant or v brakes used in the rear for heal clearance. Maybe because v's have a stronger stopped power so they're suited for the front?

The handlebar bag really ties it all together.
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Old 03-30-17, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by romperrr
I love me some Serottas. Why the brake setup? I've heard of shorty cant or v brakes used in the rear for heal clearance. Maybe because v's have a stronger stopped power so they're suited for the front?

The handlebar bag really ties it all together.
The typical answer on the brakes is that for cyclocross racing you want more stopping power in front (v-brake) and more modulation in the rear (cantilever). I could be snobby and say that, but it's not true.

I wanted the mini-moto in the front to avoid using a cable hanger (interferes with bag) and because I like them. I used the canti in the back because I could bring myself to not use the braze on cable hanger.
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Old 03-30-17, 08:56 AM
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You forgot the mud! JK... nice bike and build.
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Old 03-30-17, 08:56 AM
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Nice work, looks good. I looked at that ad for 2 weeks hoping that the frame would magically get a couple cm bigger. Love the green!

Did it come with DT Swiss hubs?
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Old 03-30-17, 09:03 AM
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Thanks again for the tip Spaghetti. I think he was selling it complete with DT swiss hubs, but I ended up just buying the frameset. Probably the greatest craigslist score of my cycling life. Worked out to about $300 with the CK headset.
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Old 03-30-17, 09:12 AM
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I'd give it the nod as classic if it had the fork.
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Old 03-30-17, 06:45 PM
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Icepick - that's a nice CL find for sure! I was all proud of my $300 LeMond Poprad CX bike, but yours tops it for sure.
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Old 03-31-17, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by icepick_trotsky
The typical answer on the brakes is that for cyclocross racing you want more stopping power in front (v-brake) and more modulation in the rear (cantilever). I could be snobby and say that, but it's not true.
Less issue of shudder is also a reason for linear brake on front so I'm told.

Is this classic CX geo with very little BB drop? How does it feel compared to your road bikes?
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Old 03-31-17, 08:07 AM
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Bring it out to Oregon for "Cross Crusade" - that'll get some nice mud on it.
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Old 03-31-17, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by ColonelJLloyd
Less issue of shudder is also a reason for linear brake on front so I'm told.

Is this classic CX geo with very little BB drop? How does it feel compared to your road bikes?
Also true. With no hanger, shudder is dramatically reduced, because the brake comes along for the ride with brake-induced fork flex.

I don't have a geometry chart for it, but I suspect if I investigate the serial number I could find one. But BB seems a bit higher than a road frame to me, but not as high as my Spooky CX. Perhaps somewhere in between. Feels comfortable and stable. Easily ridden no hands.
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Old 03-31-17, 08:25 AM
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My method of measuring BB drop is incredibly scientific. It's determined by which size canned good I need to prop up the crank when photographing it. Spooky required a taller tomato can. Serotta only needs a short chipotle can. Ergo, lower BB.
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Old 03-31-17, 08:31 AM
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Great build of what I consider to be a classic. The prior owner might have changed the fork for a number of reasons. Early Cyclocross bikes had forks that provided a range of technical and performance issues. The replacement fork might have been installed for one or more of the following reasons;

To improve the tire size capacity and mud clearance
To widen and reposition the cantilever studs to allow the use of different brakes
To stiffen the fork to reduce excessive flex while braking and cornering

I had a custom fork built for my Simoncini. The original fork was problematic for all of reasons listed above. It's still one of my favorite bikes to ride and admire.

With the original fork;







With the new fork;



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Old 03-31-17, 08:37 AM
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Pretty
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Old 03-31-17, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by icepick_trotsky
My method of measuring BB drop is incredibly scientific. It's determined by which size canned good I need to prop up the crank when photographing it. Spooky required a taller tomato can. Serotta only needs a short chipotle can. Ergo, lower BB.
I like it.
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