Originally Posted by Plainsman

Thought you might be interested in some progress photos, or at least test photos. Honestly, I’m a little shocked. I bought this 2009 Allez from a police officer who used to put it in the back of his pickup truck to take it to rides. Not a lot of care in transport. Low miles, but both chain stays were pretty scuffed up, it lives on the trainer now. Wish I had before photos, but I didn’t expect it to go this well. There WERE 3 small scratches (1/8 to 3/16” each) running perpendicular to the chainstay where I’m pointing. The appeared as white stripes. Here is what I did, thanks to the advice here:

1. First, I applied cheapo clear polish with a toothpick. This was harder than I expected. The polish was less fluid than I had hoped, and got tacky very quickly. As a result, it was a much more gooey and less elegant application than I had hoped for.

2. Watch and wonder if this is going to work. I could still see the white through the wet clear, so I was a little skeptical. Decided to leave the premises for 30 minutes.

3. surprise and wonder. When I got back, the white marks were truly gone, replaced by 3 raised (but clear) “scabs” which caught the light in different ways. Better, but how to knock it down?
Paint infiltrating the "chips"

4. The long road. I admit it, I’m afraid of sandpaper. Woodworking? Total confidence. On my carbon frame? Total cowardice. But I do have some clearcoat safe turtle wax swirl remover which I use on my cars extensively, which is even less abrasive than the turtle wax rubbing compound I also use. 1200 wet dry then polish

5. my right bicep is now noticeable larger than the left after 10,000 circles over this tiny spot, but I’m more than pleased with the result. I’ ll probably do the rest of the chainstay to practice on spots of different severity before moving to my primary riding frame (when I ride my bikes, they are tools for performance, when I hang them in the house, they become rideable art). Below is the test stay. I have to get my eye about 3 or 4 inches away to find where I did the touch up. That’s good enough for me. Thanks to all of you for the great advice! Now to find an application tool more precise than the toothpick... wait for it to dry...there will be a little shrinking

The three scratches are below the two small chips I haven’t hit yet.

The three scratches were right where my finger is pointing. I polished the high nail polish spots with swirl remover until the reflected light ran continuously across the spot without waves in it.

Originally Posted by xiaoman1

i would let it dry really well and if careful use 1200 wet dry and sand only the high and then polish with white rubbing compound.....I have cut drips with a razor blade but that takes a lot of practice...best to go easy.

Remember paint shrinks as it dries...so wait for it to dry completely...you may or may not need to do any sanding after it settles

Originally Posted by Plainsman

Thanks again. By the time I was gone for 30 minutes, got the rest of my supplies together, etc, I’m guessing it had been sitting for 45 minutes or better. I know you are right about paint taking a good while to set, if I were detailing with standard car touch up I would be waiting 24 hours. But I though nail polish was supposed to be really quick to dry. Am I wrong on that? Also, what are the chances of me going through the factory clear with 1200 wet? I’m just really edgy about sanding on my other frame. Would rather do the extra time if I can get it done with liquid rubbing compound if that essentially eliminates the risk of cutting through the clear.

Originally Posted by xiaoman1

There is always a chance of cutting through any top layer of paint....the polish that you are using has an abrasive in it and that's why it is able to "polish"...if you over 'polish' with it, it can also cut through the TC.
1200 wet and dry when used properly won't cut the TC but if overdone it will. with 1200 you will notice that the finish will become dull and then you will use your white polishing compound to make it shine...not like Danny or DOC.
OK, all that being said...yes it is best to be safe or practice before you try things.....I've had the misfortune of restoring a few cars and there is a learning curve and a feel for what you can and can't do....so if concerned about cutting through with the 1200 wet and dry...use the other arm to polish the touch-up and that way you can stay symmetrical.
As the medical Profession says "Do No Harm".
What you have done looks good...so continue and do a little at a time and enjoy the process.
Best, Ben

Originally Posted by xiaoman1

There is always a chance of cutting through any top layer of paint....the polish that you are using has an abrasive in it and that's why it is able to "polish"...if you over 'polish' with it, it can also cut through the TC.
1200 wet and dry when used properly won't cut the TC but if overdone it will. with 1200 you will notice that the finish will become dull and then you will use your white polishing compound to make it shine...not like Danny or DOC.
OK, all that being said...yes it is best to be safe or practice before you try things.....I've had the misfortune of restoring a few cars and there is a learning curve and a feel for what you can and can't do....so if concerned about cutting through with the 1200 wet and dry...use the other arm to polish the touch-up and that way you can stay symmetrical.
As the medical Profession says "Do No Harm".
What you have done looks good...so continue and do a little at a time and enjoy the process.
Best, Ben

Originally Posted by Plainsman

Oh, sorry, but is 1200 wet/dry available at the local Lowe’s or Home Depot?

Originally Posted by Troul

you have a horrible freight near you or an ACE?

https://www.harborfreight.com/9-in-x...-pk-69970.html
https://www.acehardware.com/departme...E&gclsrc=aw.ds