lytruc

Hi everyone. New to the forum.

I found this bike on FB and got it for $50. Initially was planning to upgrade components with some Ultegras I had lying around since 2009 and learn more about bikes. After all with COVID, not much else to do...

But the more I learn about the bike, it’s pretty original. Campy components, caged pedals, and even a head lamp and rack came in a box with it. It has a Cool Gear bike seat rather than Brooks... but its in good condition w no tears. I found out it was made by Exxon.

the frame has surface rust but straight and solid.

Even the bike shop is still around (since 1920)...

My question is should I try to restore it to its original build or upgrade it?

Thanks

juvela

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[Long John Silver voice] "Aye now laddie thar be the choice!"

Some forum regulars would try to do the bicycle up as close to ex-works as humanly possible while others would take a free hand to mount modern fittings which they feel operate better and can make the machine more to their exact usage requirements.

A 1973 model Gran/Grand Sport came with no Campag fittings. So if such be present they already represent changes from the machine's original kitting.

If you were to do the bicycle all up to original specifications and it poorly fitted your cycling requirements it would just become a wall piece/artifact and not a two-wheeler which gets regular use.

These cycles have been exhaustively discussed here on the forum. You need only click on the search function to bring up some of the lively threads...

Best wishes with it which ever direction you elect to take!

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bbattle

Do what you like with that bike. It's not a super valuable collector's item and as long as you aren't grinding off bits, it can be restored to original condition easily. Reynolds 531 tubing is nice.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/retrora...ran-sport.html

lytruc

Thank you to both. I’ve read in some thread that they’re considered rare. They were considered less attractive at the time because they weren’t as inexpensive as the Grand Prix.

On Sheldon Brown’s website, it mentions Campy parts.

I’ve seen them listed for $1200 on a website, which surprised me to be frank. At most, figured the bike was worth $200-300.

I think I’ll save the parts in a bin and upgrade the components and actually ride the bike.

Appreciate your input.

juvela

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Here is the manufacturer's catalogue page for the 1973 model Gran Sport (U.S. edition) -




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cb400bill

Nice find. However, you're not new, you signed up in 2009.

lytruc

I don’t recall that I did. Can I get my status changed from “newbie”? 😂

Thanks.

wrk101

You may have seen them "listed" at that price, but they are not "selling" at that price. Check SOLD listings on eBay for a more accurate assessment.

branko_76 

You can actually ride it with the original parts, as long as they are not damaged or rotted.

The Grand Sport is a very nice bike. If you restore it, you will learn much more about vintage bikes (and save alot of money) Also, if you decide to sell it, you'll get pretty close to the same as if it was "upgraded".

This one is a beauty...

cb400bill

If you look at the data under your avatar picture it shows your join date Your newbie status will change when you get more posts. I'm unsure how many you need for it to change to Senior Member, but it isn't many.

big chainring 

I picked up a Grand Sports about a month ago. It was a rusty mess. Did a refurb on it. Sanded and overpainted the frame with white Rustoleum. Stayed mainly with original parts. Its a very nice rider.

lytruc

Nice bikes!

im currently dismantling mine. Site won’t let me post pics. Says I need to post more before I’m allowed to.

I was thinking I wanted to keep the worn look. I was going to clean it up with some oxalic acid, Meguiar’s and chrome polish.

Waiting for my framesaver to show up, but have already sprayed the inner tube with some WD40.

didn’t realize that I had a Stronglight frank, so probably will need a special puller.

just out of curiosity, anyone taken their bikes to a paint shop and just had them spray it with clear coat? Would it stick?

Thanks

desconhecido 

To get any paint to stick to the old paint you're going to have to remove any rust, prep those areas with some sort of etch like phosphoric acid, thoroughly clean the old paint and remove any oxidation of the old paint and then probably sand/prep the whole thing with fine wet and dry like 1000 grit. Then/ clean it again and make sure you don't leave any fingerprints or other contamination on it. Then, the new paint, whether lacquer or enamel or epoxy/urethane will need to be compatible with the old paint. Doing the work necessary to respray may screw up any graphics on the bike. Old decals and painted graphics are probably pretty fragile. If you don't want to touch up the color but only the rusted areas, it may be best to clean up the rust and spot prep the area and then spot clear coat and try to blend in gently with some very fine wet and dry.

The best current and easily available tool for the old Stronglight cranks, in my opinion, is the Stein tool available on ebay (and maybe other places) for $38. For me, buying one when they became available again a couple years ago, was well worth it as I have a couple Stronglight cranks and though it's not an everyday tool, one doesn't want to need one and not have one. And, when you need one, you don't want to put off the work while trying to buy one/track one down.

lytruc

That’s great info. Thank you.

juvela

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regarding clear -

depending on their composition some react with existing paint to turn yellowish

you could do a test spraying with the material you envision using on an out of the way spot such as the steerer

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it would have been wise to wait to apply anti-rust treatment to tube interiors until after new paint had cured...

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lytruc

I’ve been having a hard time removing the fix cup on the bottom bracket. I’ve used penetrating oil, an adjustable wrench and the Sheldon Brown “nut, bolt, washer” technique. No avail. I haven’t used an impact wrench mainly because I don’t have one and have a hard time with a table vise.

any suggestions?

oneclick 

There is another washer technique that works with some cups - any that have flats where the portion of the bb shell that stands proud of the flat is sufficient to keep the spanner from moving inward. You get a washer large enough to hold (with appropriate nut and bolt) the outside of the spanner against the shell, so it will not slip. If you need extra leverage, use hose clamps and a bit of iron pipe to extend the spanner.

branko_76 

For cottered cranks, I use these inexpensive but effective tools from Mark Stonich in Minnesota...

BikeSmith Design and Fabrication



and for Raleigh Bottom Brackets....

branko_76 

see previous post

lytruc

I used this technique today and it just didn’t work. Broke the bolt.

So I gave up and took it to a LBS. They called me an hour later and were able to remove it. They said they used an adjustable wrench with lots of swearing.

I guess my adjustable wrench or sweating skills need some improvement.

thanks for your suggestion.

lytruc

Trying to get to 10 posts so I can upload my finish bike

lytruc

Decided to do an upgrade to 11 speed with Ultegra 6800 group set except for STIs which were 105

lytruc

Also got new wheel sets from a new take off buy off of FB market place

lytruc

Wanted to keep it appearing vintage. So did Brooks saddle, black seat post, and Brooks bar tape.

lytruc

Here it is