changing quick release skewer
11-27-21, 05:57 AM
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changing quick release skewer
Hey guys,
I have canyon ultimate cf sl 8 with DT Swiss P 1800 Spline SH11 wheels.
I got hit by a car a bit and quick release skewer (custom DT Swiss RWS version for canyon) untightened from the impact and back wheel fell out.
Quick release still kinda works (it's banged up and handle is stuck, but it holds the wheel), but for safety i want to change it.
What do you guys think about Shimano Dura Ace Quick Release for FH-9000? Should i go for 163 mm or 168 mm version? It seems sturdy, but it's not cheap.
Do you guys have any other recommendations? Is PitLock any good?
I have canyon ultimate cf sl 8 with DT Swiss P 1800 Spline SH11 wheels.
I got hit by a car a bit and quick release skewer (custom DT Swiss RWS version for canyon) untightened from the impact and back wheel fell out.
Quick release still kinda works (it's banged up and handle is stuck, but it holds the wheel), but for safety i want to change it.
What do you guys think about Shimano Dura Ace Quick Release for FH-9000? Should i go for 163 mm or 168 mm version? It seems sturdy, but it's not cheap.
Do you guys have any other recommendations? Is PitLock any good?
11-27-21, 07:05 AM
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@dom47 - Welcome to C&V! I would pick the one that was the same, or close, as the one you already have.
Which side was hit? How are you able to use the skewer with the handle "stuck?" Don't tell me you are tightening the skewer with the DS nut!
I would recommend a skewer with an internal cam.
I would be concerned the rear triangle was misaligned after the hit. If hit from the DS then the RD alignment.
Frame AL or steel?
Which side was hit? How are you able to use the skewer with the handle "stuck?" Don't tell me you are tightening the skewer with the DS nut!
I would recommend a skewer with an internal cam.
I would be concerned the rear triangle was misaligned after the hit. If hit from the DS then the RD alignment.
Frame AL or steel?
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11-27-21, 08:17 AM
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Any Shimano or other good quality internal cam skewer should work fine and it certainly doesn't have to be Dura Ace. I agree with SJX426. If the impact was hard enough to damage the qr skewer and knock the rear wheel off the bike I would also be very concerned about the frame's and/or rear derailleur's alignment.
I'm also hoping you aren't using the current skewer as a thumb screw or using the ds nut to hold the wheel. Fix it properly.
I'm also hoping you aren't using the current skewer as a thumb screw or using the ds nut to hold the wheel. Fix it properly.
11-27-21, 09:51 AM
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@dom47 - Welcome to C&V! I would pick the one that was the same, or close, as the one you already have.
Which side was hit? How are you able to use the skewer with the handle "stuck?" Don't tell me you are tightening the skewer with the DS nut!
I would recommend a skewer with an internal cam.
I would be concerned the rear triangle was misaligned after the hit. If hit from the DS then the RD alignment.
Frame AL or steel?
Which side was hit? How are you able to use the skewer with the handle "stuck?" Don't tell me you are tightening the skewer with the DS nut!
I would recommend a skewer with an internal cam.
I would be concerned the rear triangle was misaligned after the hit. If hit from the DS then the RD alignment.
Frame AL or steel?
You are right, didn't really think about structural frame damage and i should have. Thanks!
I'll ask a bike mechanic to check the frame to be sure, but it's seems like i got away with some frame scraping and some dropout scraping. Mainly quick release handle, left pedal, left crank arm and seat was scraped.
Left side was damaged, rear qr got scraped and i guess rear wheel got released when rear quick release handle hit raised sidewalk. I still don't get it how that rear wheel got released. It was tightened properly.
There is no "quick release" pop-out with DT swiss RWS. You have to unscrew it to take of the wheel and handle direction can be adjusted by pulling it a bit and placing it to the wanted direction.
So just that pulling to adjust handle direction mechanism got stuck and is not working.
Anyway, it's wise to just change the quick release skewer for sure. Don't want my wheel to fall off when riding.
11-27-21, 09:55 AM
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There is no "quick release" pop-out with DT swiss RWS. You have to unscrew it to take of the wheel and handle direction can be adjusted by pulling it a bit and placing it to the wanted direction.
So just that pulling to adjust handle direction mechanism got stuck and is not working.
So just that pulling to adjust handle direction mechanism got stuck and is not working.
11-27-21, 10:13 AM
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It could be either. As posted the DT skewers need to be twisted to tighten or loosen. The OP needs to clarify this before anyone can give him advice.
Does the bike have disc brakes and thru axles, or does the DT skewer have an end cap like a normal skewer? I'm guessing it's a thru axle since it's a Canyon, I'm just too lazy to look up the bike model.
Does the bike have disc brakes and thru axles, or does the DT skewer have an end cap like a normal skewer? I'm guessing it's a thru axle since it's a Canyon, I'm just too lazy to look up the bike model.
11-27-21, 10:50 AM
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It could be either. As posted the DT skewers need to be twisted to tighten or loosen. The OP needs to clarify this before anyone can give him advice.
Does the bike have disc brakes and thru axles, or does the DT skewer have an end cap like a normal skewer? I'm guessing it's a thru axle since it's a Canyon, I'm just too lazy to look up the bike model.
Does the bike have disc brakes and thru axles, or does the DT skewer have an end cap like a normal skewer? I'm guessing it's a thru axle since it's a Canyon, I'm just too lazy to look up the bike model.
11-27-21, 10:58 AM
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The bike appears to be disc brake thru axle only, wheels could be either, & skewers could be either- both tightening by turning not cam action.
The Dura ace QR mentioned is a QR, & Pitlock I guess now comes for either.
If it is QR, that would sort of make sense as there are reports of over-tightening and stripping the threads on the QR nut so the same thing could have happened in the crash but then it would not work later.
That's all I got from this armchair...
Edit I see that the bike does come rim brake.
Any regular quick releases will work, the rear is longer than the front. I would buy a set- won't cost any more & then both will operate the same..
The Dura ace QR mentioned is a QR, & Pitlock I guess now comes for either.
If it is QR, that would sort of make sense as there are reports of over-tightening and stripping the threads on the QR nut so the same thing could have happened in the crash but then it would not work later.
That's all I got from this armchair...
Edit I see that the bike does come rim brake.
Any regular quick releases will work, the rear is longer than the front. I would buy a set- won't cost any more & then both will operate the same..
Last edited by woodcraft; 11-27-21 at 11:07 AM.
11-27-21, 03:29 PM
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O.p. obviously doesn't want to consider the worst case scenario but it doesn't sound like this was a trivial impact. In any case, the diff between a 163mm and 168mm Q/R could hardly be the issue. As I understand it, Road OLD is 130mm and MTB OLD is 135mm. I 'thought' it was as simple as that. But IF you buy these things by the total length and not the OLD, then it would appear the 163mm would logically correspond with the shorter OLD. Has Canyon been around that long that C&V thinking works to solve their issues? Wait, carbon? What exactly is going on in this thread?
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