What size Shimano EW-JC130 would I need for my handlebars?
#1
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What size Shimano EW-JC130 would I need for my handlebars?
Hi everyone. I'm a bit new to the Di2 scene and was wondering if I can get some help from anyone who runs the EW-JC130 and the right size I would need for my new ENVE G-Series Gravel Bar. The handlebar size that I have are 44 cm wide. I know Shimano makes the EW-JC130 cable in 3 different sizes. I am running Shimano GRX shifters. Can anyone tell me which size I would need?
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Use a piece of string or a flexible measuring tape and measure the actual length of the bars. Use that value to order the correct length cable.
I recently installed a GRX Di2 groupset up on my Diverge. I used this method with a bar end junction port. Worked perfectly for me. Drilling the bars took some time but I would suggest this for a cleaner install.
I recently installed a GRX Di2 groupset up on my Diverge. I used this method with a bar end junction port. Worked perfectly for me. Drilling the bars took some time but I would suggest this for a cleaner install.
#3
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Use a piece of string or a flexible measuring tape and measure the actual length of the bars. Use that value to order the correct length cable.
I recently installed a GRX Di2 groupset up on my Diverge. I used this method with a bar end junction port. Worked perfectly for me. Drilling the bars took some time but I would suggest this for a cleaner install.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cON3w1IL_7k
I recently installed a GRX Di2 groupset up on my Diverge. I used this method with a bar end junction port. Worked perfectly for me. Drilling the bars took some time but I would suggest this for a cleaner install.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cON3w1IL_7k
#4
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Use a piece of string or a flexible measuring tape and measure the actual length of the bars. Use that value to order the correct length cable.
I recently installed a GRX Di2 groupset up on my Diverge. I used this method with a bar end junction port. Worked perfectly for me. Drilling the bars took some time but I would suggest this for a cleaner install.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cON3w1IL_7k
I recently installed a GRX Di2 groupset up on my Diverge. I used this method with a bar end junction port. Worked perfectly for me. Drilling the bars took some time but I would suggest this for a cleaner install.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cON3w1IL_7k
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Just be sure to add about 50mm of length for a crash loop near both the shifters. If you crash and the shifters move, that movement can disconnect the Di2 cable if you don't have enough slack in the cable.
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And note that the E-Tube wire is flexible enough that any excess can just be tucked into whatever bar or frame section the wire is installed into, thus longer is OK.
Along with having some excess, Shimano recommends you make a loop of cable where it exits the shifter, tape and tuck it under the bar tape on EDIT: outside of the shifter on the part of the bar closer to the center of the bike. If you crash and the shifter gets knocked to the outside, good to have the excess as it will stay connected. If you make the connection tight to the shifter, it might come unplugged. That’s an annoying thing middle of a ride.
Along with having some excess, Shimano recommends you make a loop of cable where it exits the shifter, tape and tuck it under the bar tape on EDIT: outside of the shifter on the part of the bar closer to the center of the bike. If you crash and the shifter gets knocked to the outside, good to have the excess as it will stay connected. If you make the connection tight to the shifter, it might come unplugged. That’s an annoying thing middle of a ride.
Last edited by Steve B.; 06-19-20 at 04:50 PM.
#7
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My suggestion was to use a piece of string to measure out all the distances. Have the string follow the same route at the cable would, then measure the string. Easier than using a hard tape measure.
Just be sure to add about 50mm of length for a crash loop near both the shifters. If you crash and the shifters move, that movement can disconnect the Di2 cable if you don't have enough slack in the cable.
Just be sure to add about 50mm of length for a crash loop near both the shifters. If you crash and the shifters move, that movement can disconnect the Di2 cable if you don't have enough slack in the cable.
#8
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And note that the E-Tube wire is flexible enough that any excess can just be tucked into whatever bar or frame section the wire is installed into, thus longer is OK.
Along with having some excess, Shimano recommends you make a loop of cable where it exits the shifter, tape and tuck it under the bar tape on the outside of the shifter. If you crash and the shifter gets knocked to the outside, good to have the excess as it will stay connected. If you make the connection tight to the shifter, it might come unplugged. That’s an annoying thing middle of a ride.
Along with having some excess, Shimano recommends you make a loop of cable where it exits the shifter, tape and tuck it under the bar tape on the outside of the shifter. If you crash and the shifter gets knocked to the outside, good to have the excess as it will stay connected. If you make the connection tight to the shifter, it might come unplugged. That’s an annoying thing middle of a ride.
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Thanks for the tip. I measured my ENVE Gravel bars that are 44cm with the string technique and they are 43 1/2 inches or 110.5cm. Now in terms of the EW JC130 Y-cable, which length would work best? They have odd lengths like (550/550/50), (450,350,50) & (250,350,50)? A bit confusing. I would love some help with this.
Last edited by Steve B.; 06-19-20 at 04:54 PM.
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Thanks for the tip. I measured my ENVE Gravel bars that are 44cm with the string technique and they are 43 1/2 inches or 110.5cm. Now in terms of the EW JC130 Y-cable, which length would work best? They have odd lengths like (550/550/50), (450,350,50) & (250,350,50)? A bit confusing. I would love some help with this.
you will probably need a 200 mm (or slightly longer) single cable from bar end junction to your brifter, then a 350/250/150*. For those numbers, 350 goes to left brifter, 250 goes to right brifter, and 150 exits the handle bar near the stem (usually from the 250 side) and connects to an “inline” junction or ew111 Bluetooth/ANT+ unit. So, in theory, if there was a 350/250/1000 Y-cable, you could actually take the 1000 all the way down to bottom bracket to connect to the B junction if you were so inclined.
*(I’m making up all numbers to give you an idea on what the numbers mean in practice, I don’t remember exact sizes Y-cables come in)
If you want, read the manuals on Di2 center. They should give you a better idea with visuals to go with them.
#11
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Did you watch the video from rides of japan youtube channel? You don’t really need the Y-cable from shimano to use the bar end junction box. But if you really want to use it, the numbers represent how long (in mms) each leg of Y is for the cable you want to buy. I believe theres a review on Amazon people mention what fits comfortably in what size of bars.
you will probably need a 200 mm (or slightly longer) single cable from bar end junction to your brifter, then a 350/250/150*. For those numbers, 350 goes to left brifter, 250 goes to right brifter, and 150 exits the handle bar near the stem (usually from the 250 side) and connects to an “inline” junction or ew111 Bluetooth/ANT+ unit. So, in theory, if there was a 350/250/1000 Y-cable, you could actually take the 1000 all the way down to bottom bracket to connect to the B junction if you were so inclined.
*(I’m making up all numbers to give you an idea on what the numbers mean in practice, I don’t remember exact sizes Y-cables come in)
If you want, read the manuals on Di2 center. They should give you a better idea with visuals to go with them.
you will probably need a 200 mm (or slightly longer) single cable from bar end junction to your brifter, then a 350/250/150*. For those numbers, 350 goes to left brifter, 250 goes to right brifter, and 150 exits the handle bar near the stem (usually from the 250 side) and connects to an “inline” junction or ew111 Bluetooth/ANT+ unit. So, in theory, if there was a 350/250/1000 Y-cable, you could actually take the 1000 all the way down to bottom bracket to connect to the B junction if you were so inclined.
*(I’m making up all numbers to give you an idea on what the numbers mean in practice, I don’t remember exact sizes Y-cables come in)
If you want, read the manuals on Di2 center. They should give you a better idea with visuals to go with them.
Left right shifter with Y-Split cable, Bluetooth junction and Bar end junction box
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If you’re going to connect another (really long) cable from bar end junction to B junction, you’re going to have to cram:
- Y to R cable,
- the Ewok unit,
- two cables on either end of Ewok unit, and
- the really long cable to B junction box
all inside the right portion of the handlebars. Are you certain you have that much internal room in the handlebar??
#13
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Where’s the cable connecting all those to the B-Junction? (As in, how this part of the system will connect to the battery, FD, RD?
If you’re going to connect another (really long) cable from bar end junction to B junction, you’re going to have to cram:
- Y to R cable,
- the Ewok unit,
- two cables on either end of Ewok unit, and
- the really long cable to B junction box
all inside the right portion of the handlebars. Are you certain you have that much internal room in the handlebar??
If you’re going to connect another (really long) cable from bar end junction to B junction, you’re going to have to cram:
- Y to R cable,
- the Ewok unit,
- two cables on either end of Ewok unit, and
- the really long cable to B junction box
all inside the right portion of the handlebars. Are you certain you have that much internal room in the handlebar??
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Bar end -> 150 mm -> Ewok-> 150 mm -> R -> 600 mm -> L -> 750 or 1000 mm -> B junction -> whatever to RD and Battery.
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Using the method from the video. I ran a 1600mm cable from the left shifter, through the bars all the way to the right side bar end and attached it to the EW RS910 junction port. I then ran a 400mm cable from the EW RS910 to the right shifter. I then ran a 1600mm cable from the right shifter to the frame and to the b-junction port. I connected the EW WU111 BT between the b-junction and the internal seat post mounted battery with a 150mm and a 750mm cable, I wanted enough slack to remove the seat post and access the BT unit if needed. Obviously the last port goes to the RD, 950mm cable.
Hopefully that helps. This is for a size 56 frame.
Last edited by Bryan C.; 06-19-20 at 06:31 PM.
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what your new configuration is exactly what you started with, just the rest of the system added in.
To answer your question, yes, your new configuration will work. It will be just more expensive in parts, and a little bit harder to install because of wires overlapping the Y. At the very least, get a 150 mm between the bar end and Ewok. With a 500, you either end up having to place the Ewok near the stem (more congestion), or you’ll end up with serious coiling to make the Ewok stay downstream of brifter (aka) between Bar end and installation point of brifter.
#18
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I assume your enve bars are pre drilled for the Di2 cable internal routing? Seems like using the y-cable may not be the best solution for you. The video is clear about how to run the system while using the normal Di2 cables.
Using the method from the video. I ran a 1600mm cable from the left shifter, through the bars all the way to the right side bar end and attached it to the EW RS910 junction port. I then ran a 400mm cable from the EW RS910 to the right shifter. I then ran a 1600mm cable from the right shifter to the frame and to the b-junction port. I connected the EW WU111 BT between the b-junction and the internal seat post mounted battery with a 150mm and a 750mm cable, I wanted enough slack to remove the seat post and access the BT unit if needed. Obviously the last port goes to the RD, 950mm cable.
Hopefully that helps. This is for a size 56 frame.
Using the method from the video. I ran a 1600mm cable from the left shifter, through the bars all the way to the right side bar end and attached it to the EW RS910 junction port. I then ran a 400mm cable from the EW RS910 to the right shifter. I then ran a 1600mm cable from the right shifter to the frame and to the b-junction port. I connected the EW WU111 BT between the b-junction and the internal seat post mounted battery with a 150mm and a 750mm cable, I wanted enough slack to remove the seat post and access the BT unit if needed. Obviously the last port goes to the RD, 950mm cable.
Hopefully that helps. This is for a size 56 frame.
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Bryan C. , 1600 mm (~ 5’-4”) seems awfully long for bar end to opposite end shifter, did you have any trouble routing it?
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Bryan C. , 1600 mm (~ 5’-4”) seems awfully long for bar end to opposite end shifter, did you have any trouble routing it?
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Just curious if your brake cable is also internal to the bar ?.
If not, I’d question why bother with E-Tube internal.
As well and throwing a monkey wrench into the works, it’s cheaper in a 1X system to use a Shimano XT bar display unit, SC-MT800, in place of the bar end/under stem A Junction. It combines BT wireless, charging port, has a gear display, and 3 E-Tube ports. Saves about $85. Adds a device to the bar.
If you are NEVER moving to 2X on this system, I think they make a specific L shifter for 1X systems that has no Di2 function. Thus no need for an E-Tube wire to that side. My XT Di2 system has the bar display, a cable to the R shifter, one 1600mm cable from the display to the seatpost battery, another 1600 to rear derailer. Also saves on a B Junction.
If not, I’d question why bother with E-Tube internal.
As well and throwing a monkey wrench into the works, it’s cheaper in a 1X system to use a Shimano XT bar display unit, SC-MT800, in place of the bar end/under stem A Junction. It combines BT wireless, charging port, has a gear display, and 3 E-Tube ports. Saves about $85. Adds a device to the bar.
If you are NEVER moving to 2X on this system, I think they make a specific L shifter for 1X systems that has no Di2 function. Thus no need for an E-Tube wire to that side. My XT Di2 system has the bar display, a cable to the R shifter, one 1600mm cable from the display to the seatpost battery, another 1600 to rear derailer. Also saves on a B Junction.
Last edited by Steve B.; 06-19-20 at 07:20 PM.
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Just curious if your brake cable is also internal to the bar ?.
If not, I’d question why bother with E-Tube internal.
As well and throwing a monkey wrench into the works, it’s cheaper in a 1X system to use a Shimano XT bar display unit, SC-MT800, in place of the bar end/under stem A Junction. It combines BT wireless, charging port, has a gear display, and 3 E-Tube ports. Saves about $85. Adds a device to the bar.
If you are NEVER moving to 2X on this system, I think they make a specific L shifter for 1X systems that has no Di2 function. Thus no need for an E-Tube wire to that side. My XT Di2 system has the bar display, a cable to the R shifter, one 1600mm cable from the display to the seatpost battery, another 1600 to rear derailer. Also saves on a B Junction.
If not, I’d question why bother with E-Tube internal.
As well and throwing a monkey wrench into the works, it’s cheaper in a 1X system to use a Shimano XT bar display unit, SC-MT800, in place of the bar end/under stem A Junction. It combines BT wireless, charging port, has a gear display, and 3 E-Tube ports. Saves about $85. Adds a device to the bar.
If you are NEVER moving to 2X on this system, I think they make a specific L shifter for 1X systems that has no Di2 function. Thus no need for an E-Tube wire to that side. My XT Di2 system has the bar display, a cable to the R shifter, one 1600mm cable from the display to the seatpost battery, another 1600 to rear derailer. Also saves on a B Junction.
RE the left shifter. The non-Di2 GRX left shifter has options for operating a dropper post, or as just a brake lever. From what I know they don't make a 1x specific Di2 left shifter . The Di2 and standard GRX shifters look different too.
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If you are NEVER moving to 2X on this system, I think they make a specific L shifter for 1X systems that has no Di2 function. Thus no need for an E-Tube wire to that side. My XT Di2 system has the bar display, a cable to the R shifter, one 1600mm cable from the display to the seatpost battery, another 1600 to rear derailer. Also saves on a B Junction.
The OP seems to think he absolutely needs the Y-Cable (I’m sure he has his reasons), but I think the above is the best advice for a permanent 1X system.