dkizorek

I'm new to the forum, so please be patient. I am Fifty, 6'2, 230lbs. I recently got back into biking after riding my brothers bikes and have ridden everything from Steel to a high end carbon RB. I have researched for the last year and am now thoroughly frustrated. It seems there is an arguement from everybody for every type of frame material and where to buy them from. My head is spinning. Here is what I am dealing with; $1300 or lower budget and is mainly going to be used on the road for 20-40 miles trips for training. I have been to a bike shop and fitted for a 58cm. I would like to have Shimano 105 components. I would also like to ride in a couple of races and have room to grow with the bike, i.e., upgrade components etc. I cannot afford to buy a new bike every couple of years. I thought of used, but am very hesitant as I have been burned before. I keep going back to Bikes Direct, but the posts about them are brutal. But it seems to be based on opinion and not fact. I totally understand about loyalty to the local bike shops, etc, however, need to get the most bang for my buck. Apples to Apples, is there a bike that can compare to say a Motobecane Immortal Pro price? They also have a FUJI SL 1.0 Carbon with 105? Thank you in advance for all you input!

jimbo_tunacan

I think Bikes Direct bikes are a great value as well as craigslist. However, it depends on how confident you are doing your own work and assembling a bike. If you decide to buy off of craigslist, you could always condition the sale on having it check out by a lbs.

I actually kind of doubled down and got a year old bikes direct bike off of craigslist recently. I am very happy and know that I would have paid 3 times the price if I had bought new from a lbs. However, I am comfortable inspecting bikes and doing my own work. So, I would say if you are comfortable doing your own work and know your way around a bike, that craigslist or bikesdirect are great. However, if you aren't then there is great value in the service and support of a lbs. They also often times include a free basic fitting and maintenance package with sales, which can be very well worth it. Another option is to buy from bikesdirect and pay a lbs to assemble it.

abstractform20

dont overthink it.

test ride several bikes from shops/lbs. see which one feels best.

frame material should never make or break a ride, unless its poor quality and/or construction.

i would highly advise not buying a bike online (especially a first bike), unless you have a chance to ride it...also, dont be an a$$hole that uses an LBS as a test center before buying online.

tires and wheels can make a huge difference in ride quality.

popular bikes that fit your description are the CAADs (cannondale) and Fuji Roubaix

pdedes

Make sure whatever road bike you buy, get some good 25mm rubber. You can thank me later.

Andy_K 

You're definitely stuck between two poles. On the one hand, abstractform20 is right that the way out of the information overload problem is to just go ride a few bikes and buy the one you like best. On the other hand, with a budget of $1300 and a desire for 105-level components, buying online is the only way to meet your requirements.

I'd suggest lowering your standard to Tiagra (which is really good) or Sora (which got a recent upgrade) and aluminum, visit some local shops and see if you can find something you like.

Bikes Direct isn't bad if you can do the final assembly yourself or are willing to have it done. You have to admit, though, that it's a complete crap shoot as to whether or not you'll like the ride of the bike. Test riding several local bikes will help sort that out too, though. If you have a strong preference for one over another, then the risk with BD is increased. If they all feel OK to you, then you'd probably be OK with whatever you get from BD.

dtrain

I've done very well on used/C-List stuff myself. But in your shoes I'd recommend not undervaluing the fit, service, etc. that is part of the LBS experience when doing your 'most bang for buck' comparisons. That said, I like my Fuji SL.

Yes, there are a ton of choices - but (+1 on) don't overthink it. This is supposed to be fun.

seymour1910

Full 105 for $1149 with free shipping.
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/fr...ike-32386.html

It's under your budget and a nice bike. I agree with buying from a shop but if the budget is tight then do what's best for your wallet.

xjustice09x

I agree with what others have already posted.

You said you got fitted to a 58. Keep in mind that sizing varies between different brands, and even different models within a single brand. If you know certain information about the exact model you got fitted to its can be helpful to determine what size frames may be appropriate for you.

I know in many brands I would fit a 52 or 53, maybe even a 54 if it has a sloping top tube, but the BMC frame i'm building up right now is a size 50.

seymour1910

Yes, they do run different in size. The bike I linked to would more than likely fit him in size 57 which is available. It's his money though.

save10

Find out the effective TT length of the bike you were measured on as a 58. that number might be a better number to go on than the 'size'

Paul01

BD has really good deals if you're handy, have the tools, patience and know how to build, grease, and lube the bike.

lesdunham

If you know your size and are capable to put on a brake caliper, adjust the seat height/angle, and can tighten the handlebars then Bikes Direct deserves consideration.

For your budget I would like this -
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...sprint_xii.htm

or a touch more this -
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/..._cf_ltd_xi.htm

With the Sprint you have upgrades to think of for the future. Wheels, Compact Double, carbon handlebars.

With the LeChampion CF .... probably the saddle and carbon bars.

I rode an Immortal Pro for 6 years and 19k miles and would have gotten the LeChampion CF if necessary to buy the whole bike kit. Ended up getting the frame, group, and wheels to build the current steed. Don't stew .... make a decision, then ride it and move on. You have have to be most happy with your decision and enjoy riding this chapter of your life.

Bacciagalupe

Any major brand of road bike in the $1300 range will fit the bill. Really.

Bikes are commodities, and the differences between one and the next are extremely small.

Functionally, a $1300 bike will be nearly identical to a bike twice its cost. Shimano trickles down its tech, so 2013 Tiagra is not only 10 speed, it's the same quality as 105 from a few years ago -- i.e. excellent quality for massive numbers of miles.

I say do a few test rides, pick one out, ride it into the ground and don't look back.

carpediemracing 

That looks like a smokin' bike at a smokin' price.

+1 on the wider tires (700x25c). It'll make a huge difference in both comfort and durability. Check to see that such tires would work on whatever frame you get. It looks like it'd be tight on the BMC.

Fit is critical. Make sure the bike fits and gives you room to grow (or in your case stretch out a bit as you get acclimated to the road bike position).

A teammate of mine bought an Ultegra bike as part of his path to going Cat 3. I told him not to worry about his alum/105 bike (it happened to be a Felt) - I figured he just needed wheels to really make a difference in performance. Well he's a 3 now and he's buying wheels. Although he likes his new carbon/Ultegra bike it's not the kind of difference he expected.

Another teammate went from 5 to 3 on a CAAD8. I think his bike is 7 or 8 years old now. He upgraded some of the components but it was very selective - cranks (he bent the originals), chainrings (higher end chainrings tend to be more stiff), fit things, and wheels. The bike isn't 11 pounds or anything but it certainly works for him, and it'd certainly work for anyone who wants to try their hand at racing or who wants to enjoy a good fast group ride.

With bikes being somewhat of a commodity (frame + group + misc parts kit = bike) it's very tough making a decision. Ultimately if you go out and buy one you'll sort of start the process. If you get a non-BikesDirect brand, like that BMC, then I think you'll be better received in shops then if you show up with a Motobecane, especially if they don't sell BMC or whatever bike you buy.

Can you brother help with assembling/tuning your new bike?

Whatever you decide go with your decision and enjoy the new bike.

Lasrsktr

Since your in the Chicago area I would suggest stopping by Performance Bikes..

They have some pretty amazing deals going on most of the time..

https://www.performancebike.com/webap...&storeId=10054

~Steven

marqueemoon

I agree with what has already been said. Ride some bikes and pick one. It's only by riding that you begin to understand what you prefer. If you get into cycling it's unlikely this is the last bike you'll ever buy, so don't sweat getting the perfect one. Get a good one that fits.

$1300 will get you one hell of a used bike. If you are not mechanically inclined and want to be conservative budget $1K for the bike and $300 for whatever it might need in parts and labor to get it in top shape. Also, Chicago's big enough you should be able to find a shop that deals in used/consignment bikes.

seymour1910

It is, and it's hard to beat no matter where you look. Here is a link to the unboxing of a Competitive cyclist BMC, shows just how little you have to do to get on the road. https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...-a-carbon-bike!

Savagewolf

Everybody fits on a bike differently and different bikes will fit differently even if they are the same size. Even so, it seems like a 58cm would be on a low side for you at 6'2. Just make sure that your seatpost isn't sticking up too high to fit (meaning the bike is too small) or slammed down low (meaning the bike is too big).

You can get better deals online, but I would stick with a shop you feel comfortable with. Until you feel really comfortable with your bike knowledge, a good shop is the way to go. Check out multiple shops before deciding.

Don't get hung up too much on components. The reality is that very few of us are better than the bike we ride. It's the engine (you) that will matter the most. For 20-30 mile rides, Sora is going to be just fine. Even in races it's not going to hold you back more than your engine will.

Don't forget all of the extras that are going to drive up the costs of a bike.

I suggest getting something like a Trek 1.2 road bike. It's aluminum and equipped with Sora mainly with a 50/34 compact crank. Get yourself a good light helmet, cycling gloves, and several pairs of cycling socks, cycling shorts and jerseys. Don't forget two water bottle cages, water bottles, lights if you plan on riding in the dark, a saddle bag (with tire levers, an extra tube, tube repair kit), and a pump. A cycling computer, clippless pedals, and cycling shoes are also recommended.

After you've put on thousands of miles on the bike....you'll know just what kind of bike you'll want next. Then you can keep your still very capable bike, keep it and upgrade components, or upgrade to a better bike.

Just my 2 cents.

dkizorek

i want to thank everyone for the posts so far, it means a lot.

Beneficial Ear

A slightly lesser bike that fits great and carries with it the immediate support of an LBS is going to be much more satisfying in the long run. The shimano trickle down thing is true... yea its not "top of the line" now, but it was a few years ago. I have a 2200 groupset - which is older sora stuff - and it works great. I wouldn't stress too hard over what becomes very diminishing gains... this weight weenie/elitist game is very distracting from hammering with good form and getting aero - 2 things that are gonna make a bigger difference than anything you could ever change on your bike (as supported by study after study). If I do a 25 mile time trial and lose by 10 seconds I can blame my steel not so aero frame/cheap wheels/tires because yea that much of a difference can come from componentry... but until I'm to that point its all just excuses.

I say go to the LBS, get what you can (can always negotiate!) and enjoy a properly fitted and locally supported bike. Online works great when stuff goes smooth, but any problems can be a true nightmare - dealing locally makes problem resolution quick and painless and you can probably get free fine tuning worked into the deal - or maybe even free regular maintenance for X amount of time.

achoo

If you can bust your budget a bit:

https://www.neuvationcycling.com/prod...ra-sl-1296.htm

Full Ultegra, no need to upgrade ever, IMO. Upgrades are expensive - the cheapest way to buy better bike parts is to buy a new bike.

Only problem for you is, at 230 lbs, the stock 16/20 spoke Neuvation wheels probably won't last too long, at least not the rear. But that'll probably be true for ANY OEM wheelset for ANY bike you buy.

And unlike Bikes Direct, Neuvation has great customer service.

If you can't bust your budget and you're not stuck on Shimano, you can get an SRAM-equipped Neuvation for within your budget.

achoo

Schweet.

Never mind that Neuvation. Well, only if you really want Ultegra over 105.

FWIW, I have a Neuvation F100 w/ Ultegra. Nice bike. I race on my November Bicycles frameset. That I built up with 105 shifters. 105 is fine, and the 5700 series is pretty much identical to Ultegra IMO (heck, the pedals ARE identical outside of the color...)

unionmade

+1 for competitive cyclist. I went through a process similar to yours and ended up buying from them. Use their fit calculator and then call and talk to one of their reps about sizing on a specific bike. It's not rocket science. I got professionally fitted after buying, and the fitter (a college coach) confirmed that size was right.

Mariner Fan

For 1300 bucks; i would buy a better used bike. They should already have bottle holders, computers, and other upgrades. A lot of folks buy really nice bikes then never ride them. If you are worried about it, have a shop check it out.

triumph.1

Competitive cyclist is pretty awesome I will do all of my frame buying from them after the experiences I have had with them.