Two compatible bike hitches for car - difference?
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Two compatible bike hitches for car - difference?
Hello:
My local U-Haul is able to install one of two hitches they have determined to be compatible with my vehicle (4-door sedan), but I can't figure out the differences between them other than cost. Would any expert be willing to share their advice?
Hitch 1 ($200): https://www.draw-tite.com/product/24...-trailer-hitch
Hitch 2 ($130): https://www.draw-tite.com/product/24...-trailer-hitch
Thanks,
My local U-Haul is able to install one of two hitches they have determined to be compatible with my vehicle (4-door sedan), but I can't figure out the differences between them other than cost. Would any expert be willing to share their advice?
Hitch 1 ($200): https://www.draw-tite.com/product/24...-trailer-hitch
Hitch 2 ($130): https://www.draw-tite.com/product/24...-trailer-hitch
Thanks,
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Have you asked the U-Haul dealer this question?
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PART NO 24964 - VERSATILE: This Draw-Tite Class I hitch is designed to fit the following make and model: 2018-2020 Hyundai Elantra, 2018-2023 KIA Rio.
PART NO 24939 - VERSATILE: This Draw-Tite Class I hitch is designed to fit the following make and model: 2017-2020 Hyundai Elantra.
There ya go.
PART NO 24939 - VERSATILE: This Draw-Tite Class I hitch is designed to fit the following make and model: 2017-2020 Hyundai Elantra.
There ya go.
#4
Old guy & bikes
Either would be more than adequate for a bike carrier, or even a light utility trailer. Both class 1 with1 1/4” receiver. One might fit better or be easier to install on your particular car.
Note that some bike carriers use a 2” receiver. To use one of these, you would need an adapter, an extra expense.
Note that some bike carriers use a 2” receiver. To use one of these, you would need an adapter, an extra expense.
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I put a call in with the manufacturer but have not heard back. With U-Haul, I can't get the right person on the phone.
One hitch weighs 10 lbs more than the other. That's the only real difference I see from my perspective. Trying to see if there is anything more to learn here.
One hitch weighs 10 lbs more than the other. That's the only real difference I see from my perspective. Trying to see if there is anything more to learn here.
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Just fyi: I bought my last hitch from this site:https://www.etrailer.com/
Cost a bit less than U-Haul. But if you're gonna have U-Haul do the install, then you're probably stuck with their hitch.
Cost a bit less than U-Haul. But if you're gonna have U-Haul do the install, then you're probably stuck with their hitch.
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#7
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The more expensive hitch receiver usually includes trailer wiring for towing a trailer. I put a hitch without the electrical connector on my wife's new Rav4 as she wants it only for mounting a bike rack.
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I'd surmise installation time might be an issue
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I would recommend a hitch with a 2" receiver versus the 1 1/4, you can always get a reducer to the 1 1/4 if needed, but a 2" gives you more rack options where a company does not make a 1 1/4 hitch. Also check around for a for another company that installs hitches, might get a better deal. I have know people where U-haul did really crap work.
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Given that I have 5 hitch receivers on 4 vehicles (the Mighty Truckasaurus has them both front & rear), I thought I'd contribute.
If your vehicle has both Class I (1 1/4") or Class III (2") hitches available, I'd get the Class III version for greater capacity and flexibility. Most 1 1/4" hitch bike racks I'm familiar with come with a 2" adapter. And you never know when you might need to actually tow something.
That being said, many compact & smaller passenger vehicles only have 1 1/4" receivers available. I think this is to discourage the use of the vehicle for towing something it shouldn't. Admittedly I could rig up adapters and attach my 26' Argosy travel trailer to the Class I hitch on my Yaris, but even with a weight-distrributing hitch the result is likely to not go well.
If your vehicle has both Class I (1 1/4") or Class III (2") hitches available, I'd get the Class III version for greater capacity and flexibility. Most 1 1/4" hitch bike racks I'm familiar with come with a 2" adapter. And you never know when you might need to actually tow something.
That being said, many compact & smaller passenger vehicles only have 1 1/4" receivers available. I think this is to discourage the use of the vehicle for towing something it shouldn't. Admittedly I could rig up adapters and attach my 26' Argosy travel trailer to the Class I hitch on my Yaris, but even with a weight-distrributing hitch the result is likely to not go well.
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None of the above. U-haul hitches are cheap and poorly finished. If you absolutely need to use them in an emergency they are a place that offers hitch installation. I get a dealer can be more expensive but there are plenty of mechanics who should be able to install a hitch maybe not as cheaply but would be more recommended for safe install and quality. It is rare a shop will do it but some will. Our shop does it often but I haven't been too another shop that does it.
I would recommend Curt hitches or B&W/Stealth Hitches depending on what might fit. The rare occasions we would use a Draw Tite or non-Curt or Stealth is if there is no other option or those hitches cannot be sourced at the time and the customer is in a great hurry.
In terms of racks, stick with a rack that does 1 1/4 if that is your hitch. I wouldn't recommend adapting. The smaller hitch receivers do not hold as much weight and the corresponding racks generally are designed around those limits. Some can do both but just be cognizant of the limits.
Obviously if you can get a 2 inch class II or ideally class III receiver always go for that. Stronger receiver more carrying capacity for bikes but also keep in mind the abilities of the vehicle. The hitch can handle X pounds but can the vehicle tow x pounds (if you use it for towing).
I would recommend Curt hitches or B&W/Stealth Hitches depending on what might fit. The rare occasions we would use a Draw Tite or non-Curt or Stealth is if there is no other option or those hitches cannot be sourced at the time and the customer is in a great hurry.
In terms of racks, stick with a rack that does 1 1/4 if that is your hitch. I wouldn't recommend adapting. The smaller hitch receivers do not hold as much weight and the corresponding racks generally are designed around those limits. Some can do both but just be cognizant of the limits.
Obviously if you can get a 2 inch class II or ideally class III receiver always go for that. Stronger receiver more carrying capacity for bikes but also keep in mind the abilities of the vehicle. The hitch can handle X pounds but can the vehicle tow x pounds (if you use it for towing).
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I've bought 2 hitch receivers from eTrailer, and installed them both myself. I'm not suggesting you do your own install, as you have to decide what's within your capabilities and interest.
With that said, a nice thing about eTrailer is that they provide instructions for all of their receivers. This allowed me to compare products and directly answer the question of which ones would be easier to install. One question is whether they have to cut or drill holes into your car. Also, they were willing to sell me the hitch without the wiring harness. I'm not interested in the harness, as the hitch was just for carrying bikes, but I can always buy the harness later if I want to pull a trailer.
Another question is, how low does it hang? The lower it hangs, the more careful you have to be while doing things like backing up towards curbs, and the like.
With that said, a nice thing about eTrailer is that they provide instructions for all of their receivers. This allowed me to compare products and directly answer the question of which ones would be easier to install. One question is whether they have to cut or drill holes into your car. Also, they were willing to sell me the hitch without the wiring harness. I'm not interested in the harness, as the hitch was just for carrying bikes, but I can always buy the harness later if I want to pull a trailer.
Another question is, how low does it hang? The lower it hangs, the more careful you have to be while doing things like backing up towards curbs, and the like.
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Given that I have 5 hitch receivers on 4 vehicles (the Mighty Truckasaurus has them both front & rear), I thought I'd contribute.
If your vehicle has both Class I (1 1/4") or Class III (2") hitches available, I'd get the Class III version for greater capacity and flexibility. Most 1 1/4" hitch bike racks I'm familiar with come with a 2" adapter. And you never know when you might need to actually tow something.
That being said, many compact & smaller passenger vehicles only have 1 1/4" receivers available. I think this is to discourage the use of the vehicle for towing something it shouldn't. Admittedly I could rig up adapters and attach my 26' Argosy travel trailer to the Class I hitch on my Yaris, but even with a weight-distrributing hitch the result is likely to not go well.
If your vehicle has both Class I (1 1/4") or Class III (2") hitches available, I'd get the Class III version for greater capacity and flexibility. Most 1 1/4" hitch bike racks I'm familiar with come with a 2" adapter. And you never know when you might need to actually tow something.
That being said, many compact & smaller passenger vehicles only have 1 1/4" receivers available. I think this is to discourage the use of the vehicle for towing something it shouldn't. Admittedly I could rig up adapters and attach my 26' Argosy travel trailer to the Class I hitch on my Yaris, but even with a weight-distrributing hitch the result is likely to not go well.
Yea my wife's old car was like that, but I told the hitch joint I go to that it was only for a bike rack, so they installed a 2" on it.
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None of the above. U-haul hitches are cheap and poorly finished.
I would recommend Curt hitches or B&W/Stealth Hitches depending on what might fit. The rare occasions we would use a Draw Tite or non-Curt or Stealth is if there is no other option or those hitches cannot be sourced at the time and the customer is in a great hurry.
I would recommend Curt hitches or B&W/Stealth Hitches depending on what might fit. The rare occasions we would use a Draw Tite or non-Curt or Stealth is if there is no other option or those hitches cannot be sourced at the time and the customer is in a great hurry.
btw: On our most recent new-car purchase, I sourced the hitch from eTrailer and the dealer installed it for free before I picked up the vehicle -- and this was during the pandemic supply chain mess, when I was lucky just to FIND a new car to purchase. Something to keep in mind if you are buying a new car and know you'll want a hitch on it.
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Not being an expert of the car it's intended to be installed onto, it's hard to make an informed judgement. One may leverage a slightly stronger mounting position than the other, but for the purpose of putting on a bike rack, I don't think there will be any appreciable difference between the two. If you're not towing anything (or even if you were - since the limiting factor will be the car not the hitch receiver), I wouldn't overthink this.
#16
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I bought 2" hitches from e-trailer for two cars. Their instructions make them easy to install.
One thing to be wary of if you need an adapter to go from 2" to 1-1/4 or vise-versa: They add length and might introduce wobble.
One thing to be wary of if you need an adapter to go from 2" to 1-1/4 or vise-versa: They add length and might introduce wobble.
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I would recommend a hitch with a 2" receiver versus the 1 1/4, you can always get a reducer to the 1 1/4 if needed, but a 2" gives you more rack options where a company does not make a 1 1/4 hitch. Also check around for a for another company that installs hitches, might get a better deal. I have know people where U-haul did really crap work.
Like any service facility it depends on the individual location/worker
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None of the above. U-haul hitches are cheap and poorly finished. If you absolutely need to use them in an emergency they are a place that offers hitch installation. I get a dealer can be more expensive but there are plenty of mechanics who should be able to install a hitch maybe not as cheaply but would be more recommended for safe install and quality. It is rare a shop will do it but some will. Our shop does it often but I haven't been too another shop that does it.
I would recommend Curt hitches or B&W/Stealth Hitches depending on what might fit. The rare occasions we would use a Draw Tite or non-Curt or Stealth is if there is no other option or those hitches cannot be sourced at the time and the customer is in a great hurry..
I would recommend Curt hitches or B&W/Stealth Hitches depending on what might fit. The rare occasions we would use a Draw Tite or non-Curt or Stealth is if there is no other option or those hitches cannot be sourced at the time and the customer is in a great hurry..
The OP's linked hitches are DrawTite, Uhaul does not manufacture hitches. Really a hitch is a bunch of welded steel with some powder coating. Not a whole lot of variation between manufacturers to meet rating and mounting requirements. I do prefer Curt but mostly because they are a WI manufacturer.
Exact same linked hitch is available from all retailers. https://www.napaonline.com/accessori...hitch/15edb85a
#19
Miles to Go
The one made for two different cars may be a compromise, so I would think that the one that is specifically made for just your model would be the better choice. It has two holes for vertical bolts to go through the frame while the other relies on one through the frame and two horizontal supporting bolts.
Either one would support a bike without issue, but you may as well get the best one you can if you decide to tow in the future. I have a light-duty 1 1/4" hitch on my car, usually keep a bike rack on it, but have also towed many a U-Haul trailer with it.
Either one would support a bike without issue, but you may as well get the best one you can if you decide to tow in the future. I have a light-duty 1 1/4" hitch on my car, usually keep a bike rack on it, but have also towed many a U-Haul trailer with it.
#20
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I was surprised (or perhaps lucky) to find E-trailer makes a 2" hitch for my little Honda Fit. A car that otherwise shouldn't tow anything larger than a Radio Flyer wagon. I'm just happy that it lets me use my 2" rack without any adapters.
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Given that I have 5 hitch receivers on 4 vehicles (the Mighty Truckasaurus has them both front & rear), I thought I'd contribute.
If your vehicle has both Class I (1 1/4") or Class III (2") hitches available, I'd get the Class III version for greater capacity and flexibility. Most 1 1/4" hitch bike racks I'm familiar with come with a 2" adapter. And you never know when you might need to actually tow something.
That being said, many compact & smaller passenger vehicles only have 1 1/4" receivers available. I think this is to discourage the use of the vehicle for towing something it shouldn't. Admittedly I could rig up adapters and attach my 26' Argosy travel trailer to the Class I hitch on my Yaris, but even with a weight-distrributing hitch the result is likely to not go well.
If your vehicle has both Class I (1 1/4") or Class III (2") hitches available, I'd get the Class III version for greater capacity and flexibility. Most 1 1/4" hitch bike racks I'm familiar with come with a 2" adapter. And you never know when you might need to actually tow something.
That being said, many compact & smaller passenger vehicles only have 1 1/4" receivers available. I think this is to discourage the use of the vehicle for towing something it shouldn't. Admittedly I could rig up adapters and attach my 26' Argosy travel trailer to the Class I hitch on my Yaris, but even with a weight-distrributing hitch the result is likely to not go well.
So get a 2" receiver if you can, but don't worry if you can't. You will be able to use any bike rack made.
Last edited by Camilo; 03-28-23 at 01:49 PM.
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For our motor vehicles, the Yaris and Monte Carlo only had 1 1/4" receivers available, whereas the Odyssey and C1500 had Class III 2" receivers readily available. I think it may be a relatively narrow range of vehicles that have both versions available.
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#23
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The OP's linked hitches are DrawTite, Uhaul does not manufacture hitches. Really a hitch is a bunch of welded steel with some powder coating. Not a whole lot of variation between manufacturers to meet rating and mounting requirements. I do prefer Curt but mostly because they are a WI manufacturer.
Exact same linked hitch is available from all retailers. https://www.napaonline.com/accessori...hitch/15edb85a
Exact same linked hitch is available from all retailers. https://www.napaonline.com/accessori...hitch/15edb85a
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If it were me, I’d go with a two inch receiver as many have wisely suggested.
However if you are determined to get one of the receivers in your original post, take the first one, it has a better mounting system, which would be less susceptible to corrosion caused by road salt. It’s big deal In Wisconsin, no idea where you live, so may not be a factor.
Tim
However if you are determined to get one of the receivers in your original post, take the first one, it has a better mounting system, which would be less susceptible to corrosion caused by road salt. It’s big deal In Wisconsin, no idea where you live, so may not be a factor.
Tim
#25
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Much simpler to have one bike rack that works easily with both vehicles and no adapter needed. Often a hitch adapter makes the bike rack stick further back and the mount can be lower to the ground and more likely to scrape. One thing I like about the 1up bike rack is that the bike mounts increase in ground clearance the further back they are so the second bike is higher than the first and if a third platform is added it is even higher and has more ground clearance.
Receiver class only comes into play when one is towing and the receiver needs to be able to handle the maximum load based on the tow rating of the vehicle's manufacturer. If the receiver can handle a great load that is not going to be a problem.
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