WGB 

I was out this fine morning , JRA, before the high humidity kicked in.

Suddenly, my rear wheel developed a "wobble". Checking it I noticed that the wheel would move freely from side to side with just a single finger push. Oh, no. I knew right away what it was. I proceeded to walk it home, about 4 miles. Upon getting the bike home I removed the rear wheel and discovered I didn't need cone wrenches to remove the axle. It fell out in two pieces. I see I can install the piece with the NDS cones in a vise to remove the parts but stripping the drive side will be interesting.

Hubs are both Campagnolo (unsure what models) with the tab for adding oil. Rear was a 6 speed.



I just acquired the bike two weeks ago and the PO had been using it as a trainer mounted bike. Every bolt was loose. I mean every bolt (cones, headset, crank bolts,bottom bracket adjustable cup and even the fixed cup) was loose.

The rear axle measured 135mm (could be actually 134.5mm or 135.5mm as hard to get the broken pieces to stay tight while I measured).



I would have "assumed" it is English threaded because it was a modern bike marketed in North America but the bottom bracket is Italian so it could well be Italian.

Before I start searching for a replacement axle:
Any suggestions for how I'd find out what threading it is?
I know British is 1.37 x 24 and Italian is 1.377 x 24.

Any suggestions on a source for an axle (once I have the correct threads)?

I can put out a want on the trade thread. I checked Loose Screws and didn't find any though I might not have looked in the right area as they used to carry Campagnolo axles. Same for Wheel Manufacturing.

I saw old threads where Zeus axles were recommended as being stronger and cheaper than the original Campagnolo ones but now Zeus seems very expensive.

​​​​​​Any suggestions appreciated.

​​​​​​

SurferRosa

Unless something is stuck, I would assume you could use two cone wrenches (on both sides).

Pics of bike? Did you overhaul it?

I think Record axles are all the same, 10mmx26tpi.

SurferRosa

Maybe like everything else, these things have skyrocketed in price. This is the least pricey Wheels Mfg axle on eBay at $35 plus tax.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/17510293523...wAAOSw3kVh21-j

I would try to get one from a member here for $15 or so shipped. Surely, someone hoards these.

WGB 

@SurferRosa

Thank you. I'll post photos of the bike, especially of the hubs, and I'll put a request on the wanted thread.

repechage

various lengths though.
Wheels Mfg markets replacements.

five speed Overall capacity 120+8=128
or six speed 126+8= 134
7 speed 136

there is some fudging there.
but you do not want the axle to extend beyond the outside face of the dropouts.

WGB 

@SurferRosa - I can't find the photos I took, but the below link is what I posted when I got it. PO had used a 27mm seat post so had to get that fixed by our local frame builder. I'd been working moving earth and gravel and concrete and my knees are shot. My body howled when I went for a test-ride (can't ride corncobs anymore and the 23mm tires weren't working either). I installed a 14-28 freewheel and discovered that the rear will take 32mm tire with about 2mm space left over. Front has no issue with larger tires. I'll photo when it's reassembled.

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...questions.html
@repechage - I know the length issue (if I have to I'll cut it), when I looked on my phone I didn't see any axles on the Wheels Manufacturing site that would fit. I'll look again using the desktop.

Edit - found the axles on that site

Thank you again

WGB 

Would this be the correct axle (I understand it'd have to be trimmed).

https://wheelsmfg.com/axle-08.html
​​​​​

QR Rear Axle, 10mm x 26tpi x 141mm

Wheels Mfg axles are made from aircraft quality 4130 alloy steel, made specifically for Wheels Mfg. It’s heat-treated to increase strength without making the axle brittle. Rolled threads make for easy assembly of cones & locknuts.

Wheels Mfg recommends that you work with your Local Bike Shop to find the correct axle. All axle sales are final: No returns!

• Fits Campagnolo / Italian rear hubs with 130mm spacing
• Hollow Axle
• 1 axle per bag

$40.00

merziac

I would put a skewer in the broken axle to clamp it down and maybe get a better measure.

WGB 

I'll try the skewer trick and buy a longer axle. Local frame builder checked alignment and threw in a free lecture about always checking any new to you (used) bike for alignment as soon as you get it. My alignment was off (which may have aided in wearing through this axle)

John E

This is the classic rear axle snap site (been there ... done that on three occasions in the past, two with QR axles, one with a solid/nutted axle) and probably the biggest single argument in favor of modern freehub/cassettes, which I now use on my mountain bike. It happened to me a few years ago, but I no trouble finding a replacement for the Campagnolo 126mm OLD hollow axle on my Bianchi. (Bought two, keep one as a spare.)

Misaligned forged rear dropouts are more likely to increase axle stress than their softer, more easily bent, stamped cousins.

Steel1

Most of my dropouts are 7mm thick, with exception of a cheap stamped one at 4mm. So if going with the Wheels 141mm, 141-126=15, giving 7.5mm axle in each side with 7mm dropout (will stick out).
As noted above, will require grinding about 3-4mm total to ensue it does not protrude, plus a safe gap.
Sorry if I am restating what was already mentioned above

79pmooney

Several comments. 1) Axle length isn't a magic number. It should be long enough to fit into the dropout, mostly to keep the hair on your head from going grey and falling out. Once your quick-release is tight, it does everything (or at least it does if you use a proper steel skewed internal cam QR and run it properly tight). Too long is when the axle projects so that the QR clamps on the axle end, rather than the dropout. (QR feels nice and properly tight. Wheel still slips.) Any length in between works just fine. I like about a mm short of the outer dropout edge. Makes for easy wheel insertion. But it really doesn't matter and I have never lost sleep over my axle lengths or even noticed what I've got.

2) As said before, mis-aligned dropouts add to the problem. The axle is forced to bend as needed to get the locknut to fit flat on the dropout. (Yes, the dropout helps here. It bends some too to make the axle's job a little easier.) As you read the next part, 3), think of that plank being set up to run across that ditch with a bend forced into it at the concrete walls.

3) 6-speed FW hubs are famous for breaking exactly as your did. Hubs evolved over time as FWs and multiple cogs and derailleurs came along. At the start, the hub had an axle with bearings out at the hub extremes, nicely supporting the rider's weight close to the dropout. (The axle is a simple beam like a plank. Think of a plank cemented into a wall at each end and spanning a 5' ditch. Put two heavy people on the plank, each 1 foot from the wall. For the plank, no big deal. Bends a little but not much.

Now, make that ditch 6 feet wide with one of those people now 2 feet from the wall. Not so secure. That 5' span was a single speed hub (or front hub). The 6 foot a 5-speed 120 OLD hub. Now go 7' and 3' from the wall. Getting pretty iffy for guy! (6,7-speed hub.) And 8 feet, 4 feet. 8-speed FW hub. And guess what? As soon as they tried that, they realized "this doesn't work" and cassettes became the norm because you could move the bearing out to close to the dropout and that heavy guy back to next to the wall where he belongs.

Bianchigirll 

If it’s still wearing the original Ofmega Mondiale hubs I agree a Campi axle should fit just fine. I’ve always used the Wheels Manufacturing ones

John E

My Ofmega hubs had Campag. axles, and that is what broke.

John E

Good point. It's a pretty trivial and inexpensive repair, making this a "good problem to have."
Better a broken axle than a broken frame (I have broken two while riding, neither serious for me, but both economically fatal for the frame).

WGB 

I had stripped out the frame and forks before ever riding it. New bearings and grease (headset, BB, and wheels) and I re-greased the seatpost and stem. I saw nothing odd about the rear axle or the inside of the hub when I added new grease and bearings. I do that with every bike I get now, just because then I know when it was done. Ounce of prevention versus pound of cure sort of thing. I do recall that the wheels didn't need to be trued! That surprised me as I just expect used wheels to need truing. It was fine after I rebuilt it and went for my test ride. When I went on the test ride I had 23mm tires (which kill my butt) and a really tight corncob (which killed my knees on anything except the flats). It was running fine and fast for the test ride.
I brought it over to our local frame builder (along with a Fiori Modena I'd grabbed cheap for my youngest). I was just there to show it off. He looked it over and suggested the hanger be checked for alignment (it did need a hanger adjustment).

It was fine after I rebuilt it and went for my test ride. When I went on the test ride I had 23mm tires (which kill my butt) and a really tight corncob (which killed my knees on anything except the flats). It was running fine and fast for the test ride. Suddenly, my rear wheel developed a "wobble". I didn't need cone wrenches to remove the axle. It fell out in two pieces.

The axle may have been damaged because the cones were loose but previously when dealing with wheels that had been ridden with loose cones I had always seen damaged hubs.

Previous owner was a big guy, though lighter than me, and I think now it was just that axles time. I knew of the issue with 6 speed wheels having this problem - let alone 7 speeds, but I hadn't had it happen to me so I dismissed it as a non-issue as long as I kept up on maintenance. Clearly I was wrong!

I've posted a want on the "looking to trade" thread asking for an axle. If no joy there, I'll buy one.

I have a very nice tubular wheel set hanging up and after I glue them and some tires I'll post photos. I would prefer to get the original wheels back up and running as I'd like to get this one original. (I'll do a thread on the Moderna as well)

Thank you all

JohnDThompson 

An oil port and "globe" logo would indicate a Record hub.

Until the late 1970s, Campagnolo indicated thread spec with the presence or absence of a groove inscribed between the freewheel threads and hub flange. English thread hubs had the groove; Italian and metric hubs did not. Italian and metric freewheels are incompatible, so test fitting is the means of distinguishing them. Later hubs explicitly marked thread spec in the space between the freewheel threads and hub flange.

Campagnolo rear hub axles are 10mm x 26tpi.