Brooks Saddle Care
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Brooks Saddle Care
I've recently acquired 2 Brooks saddles. One is like new, used but very clean and a tad flexible. The other is weather beaten, surface cracks, a fair amount of flex; but I believe there's life left in it. I am using the Proofide leather dressing. My question is on the adjusting nut. How tight is tight enough? They both have the threaded rod near the beginning or starting end so I assume neither has had or very little adjustment.in their life.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Peoria, IL
Posts: 4,463
Mentioned: 86 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1824 Post(s)
Liked 3,366 Times
in
1,572 Posts
I think the consensus is "don't tighten it unless you absolutely have to".
This has been discussed many times, so I expect a search might pull up those discussions. ... or at least prove that there are a lot of different opinions??
Steve in Peoria
(never touched one of the adjusting nuts myself)
This has been discussed many times, so I expect a search might pull up those discussions. ... or at least prove that there are a lot of different opinions??
Steve in Peoria
(never touched one of the adjusting nuts myself)
Likes For steelbikeguy:
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Yep, I've done some research. Mostly the posts and advice are for good to new saddles with break-in advice. I'll leave the good one alone. It's the beaten one I think will need adjustment. It sags quite a bit so maybe just a little tension to "tone" it up after the leather treatment is done.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,866
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1854 Post(s)
Liked 660 Times
in
503 Posts
Yep, I've done some research. Mostly the posts and advice are for good to new saddles with break-in advice. I'll leave the good one alone. It's the beaten one I think will need adjustment. It sags quite a bit so maybe just a little tension to "tone" it up after the leather treatment is done.
#5
Full Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 227
Bikes: 1st Track bike: 1978 Speedwell titanium 1st Road bike: 2001 Independent Fabrication Crown Jewel
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 97 Post(s)
Liked 116 Times
in
65 Posts
I have a herd of brooks saddles. The old advice about the nut is 'don't mess with it,' until you need to which is when the saddle starts to sag. This happens over time, usually years of riding and exposure to water. You can give it a turn or two and see how the leather will start to tighten.
Likes For Biketiger:
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,866
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1854 Post(s)
Liked 660 Times
in
503 Posts
I have a herd of brooks saddles. The old advice about the nut is 'don't mess with it,' until you need to which is when the saddle starts to sag. This happens over time, usually years of riding and exposure to water. You can give it a turn or two and see how the leather will start to tighten.
#7
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,776
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3582 Post(s)
Liked 3,394 Times
in
1,928 Posts
My question is on the adjusting nut. How tight is tight enough? They both have the threaded rod near the beginning or starting end so I assume neither has had or very little adjustment.in their life.
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
All good info to know. Thanks. I applied the Proofide on warm leather working by the woodstove with just a gentle heat no more than body heat. The good (newish) saddle just needed one application, similar to working with my work boots. The weathered one was "thirsty". It took about 4 applications using small amounts on the fingers letting it set for an hour between coats. The leather now has some body to it and is not greasy at all with no residual to buff and I think it's good as it's going to get.
On the underside I saw impressions where the leather sagged enough to contact the seat frame. I'm not heavy, Holding 160#
Maybe I can tension enough to keep it off the seat frame.
On the underside I saw impressions where the leather sagged enough to contact the seat frame. I'm not heavy, Holding 160#
Maybe I can tension enough to keep it off the seat frame.
#9
multimodal commuter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,808
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
Mentioned: 584 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1908 Post(s)
Liked 574 Times
in
339 Posts
Bottom line for both the shackle bolt and the proofide, like everyone else has said, do this when necessary. If you're not sure it's necessary, it's not necessary. If it is necessary, go for it, but don't overdo it.
TLDR: When a saddle leaves the factory, the leather is under tension, which comes from the frame being a little bit "too small." The frame is a strong springy steel-- it will flex a fair amount but will not ("should not") take a permanent bend unless it takes a serious hit. That tension is often all the saddle will need, but if you ever have to ride the saddle while the leather is soaking wet, it will probably stretch permanently, and the tension will be lost. If the nut is loose enough that you can tighten it without a wrench, go for it. If the bolt is actually loose and rattling around, you can definitely take a wrench to it and tighten it until it's not rattling anymore.
As for proofide, if you ever have to ride the saddle in the rain, with wet pants, you will probably notice the surface of the leather looking dull and porous after it dries. That's when Proofide is necessary. But go easy....
TLDR: When a saddle leaves the factory, the leather is under tension, which comes from the frame being a little bit "too small." The frame is a strong springy steel-- it will flex a fair amount but will not ("should not") take a permanent bend unless it takes a serious hit. That tension is often all the saddle will need, but if you ever have to ride the saddle while the leather is soaking wet, it will probably stretch permanently, and the tension will be lost. If the nut is loose enough that you can tighten it without a wrench, go for it. If the bolt is actually loose and rattling around, you can definitely take a wrench to it and tighten it until it's not rattling anymore.
As for proofide, if you ever have to ride the saddle in the rain, with wet pants, you will probably notice the surface of the leather looking dull and porous after it dries. That's when Proofide is necessary. But go easy....
__________________
www.rhmsaddles.com.
www.rhmsaddles.com.
Last edited by rhm; 12-23-21 at 06:27 PM.
Likes For rhm:
#10
Happy banana slug
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Arcata, California, U.S., North America, Earth, Saggitarius Arm, Milky Way
Posts: 3,693
Bikes: 1984 Araya MB 261, 1992 Specialized Rockhopper Sport, 1993 Hard Rock Ultra, 1994 Trek Multitrack 750, 1995 Trek Singletrack 930
Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1531 Post(s)
Liked 1,527 Times
in
915 Posts
Another thing to consider; my B17 Softened came with holes and lacing on the sides, something you might try if what you've done so far isn't enough. And where are our pics??
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Ok here are some pictures. The first 2, the one in question, is a B66. It cleaned up very nice and the last application of Proofide left a finish similar to the 2nd newer one. A minor nut adjustment toned it up so it doesn't sag on the frame. If you look just above the shiny nut you can see the embossing in the leather from contacting the frame.
This 2nd is a Champion Flyer and seems much newer Only needed one application of Proofide and still pretty stiff. No nut adjustment needed at this time.
This 2nd is a Champion Flyer and seems much newer Only needed one application of Proofide and still pretty stiff. No nut adjustment needed at this time.
Last edited by Greg R; 12-23-21 at 09:32 PM.
Likes For Greg R: