Originally Posted by _ForceD_

Since it was a school bus…as mentioned above…you should contact the school bus/student transport company, or maybe the school department (I suppose a complaint to the police wouldn’t hurt either). Give them all the info you can about the bus with regard to location, time of day, and the bus number if you happened to notice it. If you were safely on the shoulder/bike lane the bus should not have come that close to you…and/or slowed and waited until it was safe to pass you. They might be able to determine who the driver was and take appropriate action.

Dan

Originally Posted by LarrySellerz

don't try to get some poor bus driver fired..

Originally Posted by Bendopolo

Unloaded, 2017 Cannondale FSI 2 Schwalbe Marathon Supreme 29x2 tires, Carbon Rims, Flatbar. 2 large Water Bottles. I’m 6 foot, 240 and ride Cross Country 500 miles a month mostly in the Hills above and around Santiago Canyon Road, peddling up and back from Anaheim. The headset was rebuilt to specification. A run thru at the Shop found the front Spokes were under-Tensioned and both Wheels were set straighter. They were really close already. My front tire was 6 months old but had a good sized Screwhole in it that I had a 1/2 inch round patch on from underneath. Since replaced the Front tire. Wow! They really went up in price.
The Frame is as stiff as they come and the back rim is held on by a Thru Bolt. The Front Bearings are huge on a Lefty and show no play whatsoever. Like I had mentioned, it never happened before and I ride that stretch every other day. This Bike is really is built like a 25 pound Carbon Fiber Tank.

Originally Posted by 50PlusCycling

I've experienced wobbles on bikes and motorcycles, and they can be scary. They are a kind of gyroscopic thing in which destabilizes the wheel when it tries to move to a different phase. Wheels spin smoothly in equilibrium when they are perfectly vertical or horizontal, if they are anywhere in between these positions they try to push back to equilibrium, in certain situations they fluctuate between phases. The effect amplifies itself as the wobble increases. To minimize the potential for this problem, keeping the wheels true and in balance is important. Another possible cause is fork/frame misalignment, or a loose headset.

You can balance the front wheel with a cycle computer magnet which attaches to a spoke. Normally when you spin the wheel, it will stop with the heaviest side down. Attach the magnet to a spoke opposite to the heavy side. Moving the magnet closer or further away from the hub can fine tune the balance. When the wheel is balanced, it should stop turning in random positions. Heavy grease in the headset and tightening the bearings enough to add a little resistance when turning the fork can help. Motorcycles use dampeners and/or stabilizers for the same effect.

Originally Posted by rsbob

Had a frame built up by a LBS which did not include a fork from the manufacturer, so they added what they was appropriate. Every time I hit 35+ MPH I would go into a wobble. Had the bike checked out by the shop for true wheels, frame irregularities, etc. They could fine nothing but the wobble continued. Finally took the bike to a high end, Euro-shop where they checked out the bike and suggested changing out the fork as a trial. Bam - that was it. The old fork developed a resonance which the new carbon fork did not. Problem solved.

Just another thing to consider if anyone develops a wobble.

Originally Posted by beng1

This is a problem with bike design that nobody is talking about, the trend to market road-bikes with more sporting geometry that makes the bikes twitchy.

There is really Zero reason for a road-bike to have to steer very quickly. A mountainbike going slow in tight trails has a lot more use for quick steering geometry, but a road-bike, on roads designed for multi-ton motor-vehicles, is never going to run into turns so tight that it has to have the ability to turn any more quickly than those motor-vehicles because it is almost always going to be going much slower than they are on the same roads, get it ???

But instead of making road-bikes that are very stable, they make them very quick-steering and twitchy, and on top of the quick geometry they are making the frames as light as possible so they are not going to be as stiff as they would be if they had more material in them, and the result is the higher the speed, the less safe they are to ride.

An old water-pipe framed Schwinn Continental with very laid-back steering tube geometry, which would give it a lot of "trail", will handle better at high speed than a modern bike with "racing" geometry. Also heavier wheels are more stable at speed due to the gyro effect, super-light wheels do nothing but help in the first few car-lengths of acceleration, after that they have no advantage over a heavy wheel in most riding. And of course the fashion trend to sell non-pros "aero" handlebars used in time-trials, which give much less control than standard drop-bars, also make it hard to control a bike in an emergency.

I am sure a number of cyclists have been killed or maimed after losing control at speed on what is being sold today as a "performance" road bike.

Originally Posted by t2p

same geometry with the new fork ?

( same amount of trail ? )

Originally Posted by beng1

An old water-pipe framed Schwinn Continental with very laid-back steering tube geometry, which would give it a lot of "trail", will handle better at high speed than a modern bike with "racing" geometry.

Originally Posted by LarrySellerz

24 inches is plenty, don't try to get some poor bus driver fired..

Originally Posted by beng1

This is a problem with bike design that nobody is talking about, the trend to market road-bikes with more sporting geometry that makes the bikes twitchy.

There is really Zero reason for a road-bike to have to steer very quickly. A mountainbike going slow in tight trails has a lot more use for quick steering geometry, but a road-bike, on roads designed for multi-ton motor-vehicles, is never going to run into turns so tight that it has to have the ability to turn any more quickly than those motor-vehicles because it is almost always going to be going much slower than they are on the same roads, get it ???

But instead of making road-bikes that are very stable, they make them very quick-steering and twitchy, and on top of the quick geometry they are making the frames as light as possible so they are not going to be as stiff as they would be if they had more material in them, and the result is the higher the speed, the less safe they are to ride.

An old water-pipe framed Schwinn Continental with very laid-back steering tube geometry, which would give it a lot of "trail", will handle better at high speed than a modern bike with "racing" geometry. Also heavier wheels are more stable at speed due to the gyro effect, super-light wheels do nothing but help in the first few car-lengths of acceleration, after that they have no advantage over a heavy wheel in most riding. And of course the fashion trend to sell non-pros "aero" handlebars used in time-trials, which give much less control than standard drop-bars, also make it hard to control a bike in an emergency.

I am sure a number of cyclists have been killed or maimed after losing control at speed on what is being sold today as a "performance" road bike.

Originally Posted by _ForceD_

Who said try to get them fired?

Dan

Originally Posted by rsbob

Yup, but from a different manufacturer - Wound Up. Don’t know if they are still in existence

Originally Posted by t2p

the video of a crash posted in the 'Crashing techniques and styles' thread reminds me of a quick handling bike with a low amount of trail ... twitchy ... nervous ...

( might not be the case with that bike - but the front tire knifing under / subsequent crash reminded me )
.