SurferRosa

I don't think there was a problem with the actual spokes, it was just the threading. The rear spokes were perfecto.

Classtime 

I think the modern clinchers are made to measure as labeled on modern wide rims.

JacobLee 

I found this at an estate sale over the summer with a bunch of cool parts hanging on it. I quickly un-hung the cool parts, then slowly spiffed-up the not so cool parts, and made it into an upright townie. It was a good way to clear out some of the chaff from the parts bin.



I did an evapo-rust frame dunk followed by frame saver. Still lots of rust worms under the paint, but I felt better about myself. The hub races are really bad, but at least they're greased now. Also tried to get rid of the rust on the MA40 eyelets by bathing in evapo-rust, with mixed success. Heck, somebody's probably just gonna steal it and throw it in the river anyway!



Had some Accushift thumbies that I'll probably regret using, but they worked really well with the Suntour Edge derailleurs. I was going to use some aero mount DT shifters from the box-o-crap, but it was just better with Accushift all around. Check out the Accushift cable housing! This bike also taught me about the difference between 26.4 and 27.0 mm headset lower races, and what it looks like when someone does an incomplete job going from one to the other. Did my best to get it right with a digital caliper. Seems fine.



I'll probably ride it around a bit, then let it go cheap on Craigslist or give it to the co-op. Glad it's done.

seedsbelize2

Yesterday I put my 79 Trek 930 back together, in order to try out a set of bars I've had for ten years or so and never mounted. It needed only wheels and brake levers/cables. The bars were a fail, but I may go ahead and put another set on it and ride it awhile.

jim dandy

Got the frame on the Kestrel cleaned up. So, time to start reassembling …. Under close supervision.
JD Dallas

SJX426 

I needed a humble nut for a Campagnolo SL pedal that was also missing a cap. @jethin generously send me the pedal shown on the left.
GransSportBentc on Flickr

After a lot of clean up with disassembly and assembly, the pedals are done.
NRFrejus1 on Flickr

Since I have not taken a pedal apart like this, it was a great learning experience, including what is not readily available and what is, you pay a dear price for (dust caps, still needed). I decided to see if I could use my HF bearing pullers to remove the cup in the GS pedal.
GransSport2 on Flickr

It is a different cup from what is used in the SL pedal.

Next was to see if I could straighten out that nasty dent. I failed to take pics of the process while in process but here are the pics. You can figure it out.
GransSportVice on Flickr

GransSportViceClamp4 on Flickr

GransSportViceClamp1 on Flickr

End result.
GransSport1 on Flickr

I can hear it now, "Its aluminum! It's not supposed to behave like steel!"

It works with handle bars too.
P1030009 on Flickr

Don't try this at home and don't use the parts! Too many stress risers to contribute to physical mutilation.

VintageSteelEU

Got some new (old) stuff delivered today, so now I'm sitting with a nice mug of coffee and tinkering.
Today I'm focusing on the Cyclone. For now I'm only after some bolts and jockey wheels for an older, 1975 one I overhauled recently, but I'm going to rebuild this one at some point, so I thought I might as well take it apart and prepare it for cleaning. Something for a nice, relaxing Monday evening. Though I will still probably end up covered in grease. The plan is to replace Huret Success Titane on my 1979 Moto (yesterday replaced the shifters with Suntour Power Shifters). Not sure if the swap is going to be permanent, but I do like the look of Cyclone and I'm keen to try it. Looks like jockey wheels on this one below ctually have sealed bearings, so they must be a later replacement, but they are not very worn out and spin nicely.

SurferRosa

Was riding my '72 Torpado the other day, coasting along all nice like and then found myself spinning out of gear. What the? Upshifted and still spinning out. Oh, the freewheel pawls aren't locking. I stopped, back-pedaled, and it worked again. Hurried home.

So I needed to disassemble its IRD freewheel and understand what was going on. There was a lot of grime around the pawls where one side just wasn't springing up at all. I flushed it out with WD-40 and also made sure the spring, which is basically just a circular piece of metal, was in the right position. It's not a full, connected circle, so it has to be set in just the perfect position, else it will prevent the pawls from springing up.

It was a little difficult to get the lock ring off, but I did manage to open a similar Sunrace freewheel to see how its pawls are oriented. The innerds of these two freewheels are very similar in construction, like they're made by the same factory. Apart from the vastly different cogset, the IRD is a little bit nicer in material, like with the shiny lower race.

With the pawls being the same between the two freewheels, I decided to use the newer Sunrace paws in the nicer looking IRD. I probably didn't have to do this, because I think most of the problem was the IRD's spring just wasn't in the right position. Anyway, both freewheels are now working great. <knock wood>

This is the only IRD freewheel I have in service right now. They're very nice looking, but it's the third IRD that (halfway) failed on me. Not fun.


@pastorbobnlnh would be so proud. I didn't replace any grease around the spring/pawls. Hope that's correct.

merziac

Somewhere, Rube is smiling.

RCMoeur 

My primary wrench-twisting for the past several days has been to fix up a bunch of bikes that will be donated by our church as part of the Christmas season help to those in need. The bikes were contributed by the Recycle Your Bicycle program from bikes available after all the foster kids' needs were filled. I just provide the repair work (and a lot of scrubbing) to get them ready for more adventures. Mostly singlespeed coaster brake bikes, but some with derailleur drivetrains - and more than a few of them with dry chains and finicky hub cones. Also, two of the bikes initially had utterly gunked-up Rapidfire shifters, which I was able to pull and clean in the ultrasonic cleaner, and reinstalled they happily click easily from gear to gear. And the Schwinn cruiser in back had a DOA shifter for the Nexus 7 hub, for which I was able to order a replacement after several patient weeks of waiting as it made its way across the ocean.

The gaggle of finished bikes so far:

I'll see if I can get one or two more done before they have to be dropped off in a couple of hours...

ascherer 

I finally carved out enough time to finish the build on the Ted Williams Free Spirit frame I bought from @nlerner. There was some trial and error, especially with the drivetrain. Except for the new Tekro long reach brakes and VO levers everything is from my parts, the C&V Box o' Crap or other list members sales. It was too wet to do a shakedown ride today so I hope to do that tomorrow and on Monday I'll bring it back to Manhattan for my son.

The saddle and bars will come down for my son, I'm much taller.


The Microshift is a great derailleur. Neal, if you spread the frame, thanks for saving me the trouble. Dropouts needed a touch of aligning but otherwise it's perfect.


The wheelset included a dynamo hub and front/rear lights.


The lights are very similar to B&M, but with plastic bodies.


Tiagra front, and I've held this Maxy crankset for 10 years. I pulled it off a 24" wheeled Junior Raleigh Grand Prix that my old teacher included when he gave me his PX-10. It shifts ok but I'm a little concerned about how it will fare with the narrow 10-speed chain, the gaps are big and the chain was dropping between rings a bit. I think it looks great though, and the compact range is perfect.


Cockpit view.


Bringing up the rear.


I provided the revised BOC label redesign so I'm tickled to have a build that I can display it on!

fvernon

Starting up a new wheelset:
FH: Dura Ace 7400, low flange, 28H, Salsa Ti skewer
RH: Ultegra 6500, low flange, 32H, Ultegra skewer
Rims: H+Son TB14, 28/32
Spokes: Wheelsmith DB14
Nipples: Brass for the rear; Alloy for the front

The hubs are both in excellent condition, and just needed a nice cleaning/repacking. I'm really enjoying the quality of the H+Son rims, even if they're a little heavy. I expect these to be long-lasting, light touring/long distance style wheels for mixed surfaces. The full build should come in at about 1,900g

Edit: without QR skewers, the wheelset comes in at 1,862g; 9g lighter than an Ultegra 6700/Mavic Open Pro wheelset I also threw on the stand to tighten up.

fender1

The only thing "missing" is a large 52 tooth chainring with the teeth filed off for a chainguard!

ascherer 

Accepting candidates! If I'd had one I surely would have included it.

uncleivan

Almost there... started with this.. 1972 Harry Hall

Yes, I took a lot of pictures, but I'll skip some.
I took the bicycle apart, cleaned, greased, ect... It was in very good shape under the dust.

Now waiting for toe straps to finish.
The bike is 120mm rear spacing. I don't want to do anything to the original wheels other than save them. I put a set of clinchers on to ride.


I think the campy 1060 vertical ends are pretty cool.

zookster 

Took my High Sierra down for an overhaul. Frame is now cleaned/polished, reassembly will start soon. Everything is in good shape component-wise, new cables/housings will go on though.

SurferRosa

I was disappointed to find the rim labels backwards on the $10 wheelset I got off Craig's the other day. I've seen a lot of old wheels like this. It bugs me.



After removing the kinda ugly plastic rim tape on the rear, I found something worse, the ds spokes are way too long. No wonder he used plastic to protect the tube.



So what to do? I removed a ds spoke and compared it to some in my stash. I found just the right number (18) that were a more appropriate length, about 4mm shorter, and decided to rebuild the wheel with the rim label in the proper position. What the hell. It's winter.

And at least I don't have to worry about polishing the Miche hub. It's in great shape.



The thing is, now I've gotta rebuild the front too so the labels match. Because I don't have to switch out any front spokes, I think I'll try to tape the front spokes together so I can just loosen the nipples, flip the rim around, and put everything back together. Might save a little bit of time anyway.

Wright Bros

Just finished a overhaul on a Centurion Le Mans 12 for a guy at work.

SurferRosa

Got the rear all the way laced up just to find all my leading spokes are too long on both sides now?? Wait. Was this thing 4-cross? This thing was 4-cross! Who builds a 36h wheel 4-cross??!!

Guess I'm leaving it that way. Finally fixed. Whew. That was a first. Now I know to always check the pattern. Seemed weird the ds spokes were well over 300mm. With a $10 wheelset, there's always a catch...

steine13

This was discussed yesterday in this this thread:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...r-1-700-a.html

Post #6
You need to keep up

cheers -m

RCMoeur 

Working on a couple of unusual* conveyances this afternoon on behalf of Recycle Your Bicycle - a Sbyke skateboardish scooter with a 16" front wheel, and a Mobo Tri-ton 3-wheeler with a direct drive 20" front wheel and two 16" wheels. The Mobo is fun once you get used to it, although the 20" 'gear' does limit one's top speed on level ground.




*Doctor: "You have Tom Jones disease."
Patient: "Is that rare?"
Doctor: "It's not unusual."

RCMoeur 

I've built quite a few 36-spoke wheels with a 4-cross pattern earlier in my wheelbuilding days, although all of them have been either 27" or 700C.

SurferRosa

I sorta understand the reasoning if the spoke count is 40 or more, but ... 36??

P!N20

Do you mean the hub labels? I'd leave it as it is - you can justify it each way; either it can be read from the front of the bike or from the rider's POV when you're sprinting in the drops.

I thought the spokes looked close to the neighbouring heads when you first posted them up, but I was too shy to say anything.

VintageSteelEU

I think I'm addicted to derailleurs these days. On one Moto I've replaced Huret Success Titane with Suntour Cyclone, which of course needed cleaning (and still needs some fine tuning) and since I couldn't find Suntour Cyclone front derailleur (MK 1), I got Suntour Blue Line which will go on the bicycle soon.
For my other Moto, which currently has Shimano 600EX SIS RD and FD, I got Compe V for the front and Suntour VX-S for the back. Compe V is NOS, so won't require much work. The VX-S was of course filthy when I got it, so I had to disassemble it, clean it properly, give it a bit of light polishing, load it with grease, oil the pivot bolts and put the whole thing together. Luckily, the pulley wheels are in acceptable shape. Busings a bit mangled, as usual in old derailleurs, but I've seen worse. Overall, a very nice derailleur. I'm quite impressed how sturdy this thing feels after well over 40 years! OK, at 215g it's heftier than Cyclone, but I think I actually prefer it over Cyclone when it comes to the way it looks as well. VX-S has a sort of Art-Deco feel to it. Of course, all the nice grooves I like are going to attract grime like nobody's business, but I guess it's not too difficult to clean with a small brush if need be. Love the cage, it seems I will be able to get the chain on without the need for opening the quick link.
Tomorrow I think I'm going find a moment to put it on the bicycle and see whether I can get it working with indexed Shimano shifters.


Nice and clean

Perhaps one day I will find time to give it mirror polish, but for now this should suffice