John N

I will be riding the Icefields Highway (Jasper to Banff) as part of my tour this summer. Since I am starting in Alaska, I won't know the exact arrival dates in Jasper until a few days or so out but anticipate arriving in Jasper around Thursday, August 3rd +/- a day or two.

I have not been to this area since 2001 and have heard it is really hard to get a campground in an RV/Car without a reservation. But how about bikes? I called them and they of course said to get a reservation and they do not have a "no turn away policy" or hike/biker sites.

For those that have ridden the Icefields Highway in the past few years, did you have reservations every night, just showed up and all OK, or what??

mev

One data point:

I cycled in mid-August 2016 at peak season. Like yourself, I didn't know exactly when I might arrive. However, I made reservations once I reached Tete Jaune - two nights before. I got a campground in Jasper National Park and found hostels in Hilda Creek and Mosquito Creek. I waited until I arrived in Banff to find lodging there.

My blog page that included riding the Icefields Parkway - Banff, Icefields Parkway - A bicycle ride across the Americas

John N

Thanks for the Info Mev. That relieves my mind somewhat . BTW, your link is bad. John

Yan 

I'll be riding through there in late June this summer. No way I can make reservations more than three days ahead of time. If I can't get a site I'm going to the woods, sorry.

John N

That is the Plan C with Plan A securing a reservation and Plan B asking around to share a site.

Roughstuff

I'm a bit confused, but if I recall south of Jasper is Whistler Campground, one of the largest in North America; and they have a pretty big Hiker/Biker area. I used to start the Sierra/Cascade bicycle trail at the Mexican border on April 1st, and generally finished with a final dash to Jasper by the middle of September. And there have been times when I was in Jasper closer to midsummer as well. I've never had trouble finding a spot, let alone turned away.

Like many people I also do roadside camping if I am not likely to reach a true destination, and while it is frowned upon there is plenty of the former in the areas 10-15 miles south of Jasper, so you can wake up and ride in just in time for breakfast. If you like to climb there is a hostel at Mt. Edith Cavell as well. Just remember it is bear country.

John N

Thanks for the reply! I don't know what to say but I called the Jasper office directly and they said only Jonas and Honeymoon have designated Hiker/Biker sites. The other CGs may have first-come, first-serve walk-in sites but they recommended arriving by 11am in order to have a good chance at the Walk-In sites. The Ranger did say that post-Covid, the CGs are swamped and strongly encouraged reservations. Thus this post. Overall, I feel I will "probably" be able to get a site but wanted to get some post-covid real world feedback by fellow cyclists. Thanks again!

jamawani 

Whether you are a Canadian citizen or not, you can get a hefty fine for illegal camping in the parks.
And if you are not Canadian, you can be barred from future entry if the offence shows on your record.

More importantly, if the single person "roadside" camping is multiplied hundreds of times, every night -
it places an undue stress on an already heavily used and fragile environment.
Human urine has lots of salt - something often rare in the natural ecosystem.
Salt-starved wildlife will be attracted to the roadside and be more likely to be hit by cars.
Among many other issues ....

Dispersed camping is great on BLM land in the middle of Nevada.
It isn't in national parks.

mev

This guy got off easy... https://www.cochranetoday.ca/local-n...s-food-1689214

jamawani 

2019 - - I think it would be more like $500, now.
$100 - no camping permit
$200 - violation of camping only in designated locations
$200 - violation of food storage regulations
Plus you are taken to Canmore to appear before a magistrate.

Pretty high risk, if you ask me.

indyfabz

“He double bagged his food and set it under his bicycle to discourage wildlife, thinking of raccoons – unaware there are bears in the area.”

Wut

Wonder if he made the race. Probably best if he didn’t.

balto charlie

He called 911 for help, truly clueless.

John N

I generally agree with what you say but what would you do if you find yourself after a long day in the saddle that are in the middle of the Icefields, no campground has space, other campers/Rangers won't help, and it is 9pm with the sun setting in 45 minutes? Assume that day's riding plans did not go according to plan because of mechanical or something beyond your control and that you had originally planned on camping legally but won't reach your campsite before dark? Would you keep riding at dark without headlights? Would you camp illegally? Not pee? What? Genuinely interested to know.

I am not a fan of illegal camping (love dispersed camping though), but to me there are times when there is no reasonable alternative. I am trying to avoid illegal camping by seeing what has happened to others, calling for information, trying to time the route so the few hiker biker sites line up, etc. but ultimately, push come to shove, if I have no choice, I have no choice. To me, Parks Canada (and all US National Forests) are also partly at fault in the above scenario as they should have designated hiker/biker sites at all CGs in such a popular destination if they want to discourage illegal camping as this would reasonably prevent this but that is a different issue/topic.

indyfabz

I agree with John about having H/B sites. It seems relatively easy to set aside some space for people traveling under their own power. It’s not like much is needed. And you can easily have a rule that it’s one night only.

There are several US states that have no turn away policies at state parks. The rules vary somewhat, but they are welcomed. If you contact ACA it can provide you with materials about the rules as well as materials on how to push for such sites in your state.

BTW…Emergency can be an affirmative defense to a criminal charge, at least in the US:

https://www.gtlawfirm.com/blog/necessity-defense/amp/

jamawani 

What constitutes an emergency?
If I know there is a blizzard coming - and I drive into it -
with bald tires, 1/4 tank of gas, and no warm clothing -
is it an emergency?

U.S. and Canadian park services make it very clear that the crown jewel parks are swamped.
And the demand far exceeds supply of campsites, rooms, even entry in some cases.
Few, indeed, are the cyclists who cannot click on the park websites and see this clearly stated.
Thus, it requires planning - and, unfortunately, fixed schedules at times.

Hiker/biker campsites are an amazing benefit for cyclists.
And kudos to the national and state parks that have implemented them.
But they aren't a given - even though Adventure Cycling has worked for years to expand them.
For whatever reason, Banff and Jasper have not implemented hiker/biker campsites.
(One possible reason is the likelihood of misuse by transients and seasonal workers in the parks.
As with so many resort communities, there is a serious lack of housing for workers.)

I have lived in Wyoming for 30+ years - part of that time in Jackson.
I have seen the damage done to fragile environments by the crush of tourists.
I have friends in the park service and the stories they tell are mind-boggling.
Why are people gored by bison every year despite signs everywhere?
And it is exhausting for rangers.

One person camping in the woods overnight may not seem like much.
But when you multiply it by thousands - year in and year out -
the impact is serious and permanent. So, there can't be "exceptions".

The Bighorn Mountains have some of the most stunning wildflower meadows in the world.
It is national forest land, not national park - so there is significant dispersed camping.
When I was a kid, dispersed camping meant a station wagon parked at a turnout -
and a couple of tents that you carried in. (Unfortunately trenched.)
Now it is a caravan of giant RVs with ATVs and drit bikes tacked on.
The wildflowers meadows are being destroyed.
People drive these monstrosities out into the middle of the meadows - -
so they can see all the flowers ?!?!?!?!?
And destroy them in the process.

I think the expression is - "Loving our wild places to death."

So many species are on the brink of extinction.
Not just fuzzy animals like bears and wolves, but insects, amphibians, plants.
National parks are one of the few places with stringent protections.
Those protections need to be observed.

Photo - Bighorn Wildflowers, Late June

jamawani 

As I mentioned above - there are backcountry hike-in / bike-in campsites.
The ones relatively close to the parkway are usually not destination sites.
So, there are more likely to have openings - even same day.
They also tend to be trailside and not especially spectacular.
All backcountry sites I have used have either bear boxes or bear poles.

The one drawback is you have to pick up your permit in person.
That's so you watch the backcountry practices video which is required.
Northbound can be a problem with sites in south of Banff.
But southbound you can stop in as Jasper park office right at the start.
Last time, you could get permits for both parks in any office.
Offices are at Banff, Lake Louise, and Jasper.
(There's only an info booth at Icefields.)

Since nearly all riders are coming from or headin into British Columbia -
Plan to stay at Kinney Lake backcountry site in Mount Robson Prov. Park.
You can bicycle in on the Berg Lake Trail. (7 km.) Truly spectacular.
Permit required - park office near trailhead.
Then its 90 km from the trailhead to Jasper townsite.

https://nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/ku...fce7c2b377.pdf

In Jasper there are lots of homes that rent small rooms and a hostel nearby.
The Saturday Night Lake Loop backcountry sites are usually taken.
The nearest site south is along the Whirlpool River via Old Hwy 93.
(Bikeable fire road to campsite, moderately challenging)

Fortress Lake / Chaba Trail is also a fire road - kinda rough, but bikeable.
What's nice is that the Sunwapta Lodge is at the trailhead.
So, you can have a meal before heading in or breakfast on the way out.
Big Bend is 6.5 km in.

https://parkscanadahistory.com/brochu...ide-e-2018.pdf

You would have to hike in to Hector Lake since the trail is not bikeable.
It is lightly used and there are canoes at the lake. (Or there were)
I didn't have a PFD and was alone so I used better judgement.
(On of the few times that I have done such.)
Only 1.5 miles off the highway.

Nearby Mosquito Lake front country campground is the last to fill for some reason.

Red Earth Creek campsite is very lightly used - halfway between Castle Jct. and Banff.
Then it's a kinda uphill slog for 6 km. Small, heavily wooded site.
Also, you have to use the Trans Canada Hwy #1 to access Red Earth.

If you are planning to continue on to Kananaskis - then you should consider the Spray River Trail.
It connects to Spray Lakes / Smith Doreen Rd. Popular cycling trail.
There is a lovely backcountry campsite 6 km south of Banff, but hard to come by.

https://www.parkscanadahistory.com/br...try-e-2017.pdf
(The older map shows bikeable trails more easily)
https://www.parkscanadahistory.com/br...ry-e-c1999.pdf

Kananaskis is where Albertans go to escape from the hordes of tourists.

Jama

Pic - Kinney Lake at Mount Robson Provincial Park

gauvins

Two summers ago, I entered Jasper where I was to meet wife and daughter who flew thru Edmonton.

Campgrounds were full, there is no hiker/biker spaces and no "no turn away policy". The overflow campground is reminiscent of a refugee camp -- certainly not a place where you feel as one with nature. I spent one night hidden in the bushes, using the park's sanitary compound.

Luckily, we had a reservation at the excellent youth hostel and spent a few days backcountry hiking.
So my suggestion would be to try and get a reservation at the hostel. With some luck they might be able to accommodate uncertain check-in dates. And to wing it as far as wild camping goes.

One option would to use backcountry sites. Post COVID has seen a sharp increase in RV/car camping but apparently not so much in primitive camping. Not an obvious choice though, because tenting platforms are several kilometers from the trail head, and you can't (not allowed, not at all easy anyhow) to ride the trails.

If you are coming from Alaska, you'll know how to deal with bears. Be discreet, considerate and try to use restrooms and you should be fine.

John N

John, thanks for the info. However, you did not answer my question of what to do if your planned destination is for circumstances beyond your control out of range one day et cetera, et cetera as described above since you would not have the required permit as you had planned on staying at a front country campground. You can't legally camp in a backcountry site without a permit so then what?

Anyway, I knew about some of the backcountry places and will do more research on the others. BTW, one of your links is bad. I also know about Kenney Lake and if the timing works out, I will probably stay there or at Lucerne which has 2 H/B sites though the Kenney Lake requires a few sections of hike-a-bike after reviewing the Google Streetview of the trail getting there. I will only stay at backcountry sites if I can take my bike. Have you personally stayed at backcountry sites in Jasper (https://parks.canada.ca/pn-np/ab/jas...ry/cartes-maps ) in campsites 25, 26, 34, 37, or 49? If so, do any of them NOT require hike-a-bike? I gotta say, the backcountry toilet types don't leave much for privacy!

I am heading to Radium Hot Springs after Castle. There appears to be no campsites north of the Castle Jct.

I gotta say, the backcountry toilet types don't leave much for privacy!

After this the next headache will be Bryce and Zion NPs in Utah in late September. To make things worse, they have closed Watchman CG for 2023 & maybe 2024 in Zion (even though it is supposedly functional according to the Ranger I spoke with) while they evaluate how to improve it & enlarge it. No work is being done on it until 2024. Government thinking at its finest is to close a working CG in a high demand area as they decide how to get more campers in the area. At least there is more dispersed camping nearby.

John, I thank you for your vast knowledge!

John N

Your one night hidden in the bushes: were you camped in the overflow, elsewhere, what?

I am getting to the point of considering making multiple reservations and wasting the ones I don't need. I REALLY wish ACA and others would push strongly for H/B sites instead of the other advocacy they do. Since I live in a state with very few federal campgrounds, my Senator does not want to bother with it basically. Arrgh. At times like this with trying to plan for the Icefields, I really get tempted to say forget it and go another direction as the effort is getting to be a royal PIA.

gauvins

Was at the Jasper overflow (can't link gMaps -- just NW of the village).
TBH, in my experience you can always find a place. I've very often slept in rest areas (technically not allowed), picnic spots, etc. I've been turned away only once (at a caravan site, while hiking, under heavy rain...). So I wouldn't worry too much. Perhaps remember that you are in bear country. Kevlar bag or canister.
Have fun -- great trip!

jamawani 

Would you go to L.A. or NYC without prearranged plans for lodging?
You may have to stick to a fixed schedule.
You probably should plan for fewer daily miles.
But, then again, fewer miles means more time to enjoy the parks.

I've stayed at Red Earth, Hector Lake, Big Bend (x2), Kinney Lake (x2)
I've ridden the Spray River Trail - scouted out other bikeable trails.
I've also backcountry camped in Kootenay, Yoho, Kananaskis, and Elk Lakes.

You will be coming theu Prince George, BC. That's 2 1/2 days out of Mount Robson.
Use some time in P.G. to make online reservations - knowing what the weather looks like.
Remember that July 1 is Canada Day.

mev

Icefields is a beautiful ride so hopefully it doesn't come to that. However, I'll note that you likely have some flexibility in sorting choices along the way:
1. At both Prince George and Tete Jaune Cache there is both internet and an alternate road heading southbound.
2. You might have flexibility if you needed to delay or shift things by a day.
3. There are multiple choices between campgrounds and hostels so if necessary can make a shorter day or longer day.

So that gives an ability at Prince George to do a second round assessment and look through combination of alternatives, perhaps shifting a day or doing a short hop if necessary. If it looks completely bleak then you can defer finalizing a choice until a few days before.

Alternately you could make some of those duplicate reservations earlier and again not months in advance but a week or two.

In my case in mid-August 2016 it was peak tourist season and I was fortunate in making reservations two days before entering. Things were mostly full and so not everything I tried was available but enough to put together a plan with reservations. I ended up spending a week in Smithers having a hub replaced (including replacement being mailed under warranty) so if I had made reservations much in advance of that, I would have had to change anyways or use the train to skip ahead.

John N

Yeah, I know. I am just for friggin frustrated with Government "efficiency" (and my wife works for them). I get the reason for the need for reservations and even the reason behind the scramble for the first-come, first-served sites. I also see that in the national parks (Canada & US) that cyclists/hikers are not an insignificant number of visitors and that the cyclists/hikers have a legitimate need for accommodations in the form of hiker/biker sites and a "no turn away" policy, especially if the National Parks want to truly 1) reduce the carbon footprint they so fondly talk about, 2) discourage/prevent illegal camping, 3) reduce congestion on the roads, etc. Then when I had the volunteer "Ranger" (don't know title) tell me they shut down 1 of 2 major campgrounds in Zion WHILE they EXPLORE what they are going to do (supposedly nothing major was wrong so an usable, in-demand CG goes empty), just causes me to get frustrated when things are preventable/fixable without much effort or expense.

I had already planned to make reservations sometime after I turn onto BC-16.

The source of all this is the "never do" reason of having a deadline in that my wife is flying out to join me in Columbia Falls so I have to be there on X date. If I didn't have the deadline, I would just show up and go with the flow. I can hopefully build in some extra days between Deadhorse and Jasper enough to still make my deadline. That is probably as I will probably only need an additional day or two "buffer days". If I do, I can always take the longer Waterton/Glacier route versus Eureka route or just take shorter days after I get through the Icefields gauntlet.

John N

Yes, I have and would again just show-up in LA, NYC, and other major metro areas as they do not have 100% occupancy and there are a TON more options to stay.

However, you still have not said what you would do if you could not get a campsite and basically saying I am an idiot for even considering illegal camping if no option exists. I sincerely love your vast geographic knowledge when it comes to bike touring, but you do have a slight tendency to give doom and gloom without a solution/alternative or downplay the cons of some of your suggestions. I was really hoping for something from you that I had missed if the PLANNED options fell through and was only left (in my eyes) with camping illegally. While all of your suggestions are good, none of them work in you can't make it to your reserved campsite with no viable option other than to illegally camp. Again, illegally camping is not my first or even second choice but my last choice. I was just hoping you had a pearl of wisdom on what to do if all planning is out the window and no options left.

mev

How are you planning on getting from Banff to Columbia Falls?

I'll recommend variations of the route I did. I decided to try some of the GDMBR though ended up more on the adjacent roads. The only spot I definitely needed to be on trail was 6.2 miles of Elk Pass which I mostly hiked with my bicycle. Otherwise I had choices of either road or trail to experiment. Near Banff I was on trail and the gravel roads would have been somewhat dusty. Near Fernie, I took the "old route" which was paved though there was a new off-road section that was described as rougher. South of Eureka I took the Whitefish Divide Road. Don't have to take the exact same choices I did but along this general route there is are a good set of alternating choices.