tgot 

Hi,

I'm working a retro-roadies build, on a Centurion ProTour. The frame came to me with cantilever-like posts and center-pull brakes on them. (DiaComp?).

But, in setting up the cockpit, I don't know how to get enough brake hangar clearance for a clean run.

Brake hangar only 5/8" or 3/4" below stem

Is that going to be an acceptable cable routing? It seems like the cable &housing is going to take a fairly steep bend to reach the hangar cable stop.

Am I just overthinking this?

Or, are there longer drop hangars that I thought be looking at?

I bought a hangar stop that mounts on the front brake center-hole (https://www.modernbike.com/product-2126251742?gclid=Cj0KCQjwmN2iBhCrARIsAG_G2i4kNzfIqUVeFHb-sNBNZyJP5yiA6yKoPHn5I9b4yOoEuKVBRLLTEjMaAt13EALw_wcB)/, but it looks nether high enough nor flat enough to clear the post-mount brakes.

I almost wonder about something longer, like (https://www.modernbike.com/product-2126181880?gclid=Cj0KCQjwmN2iBhCrARIsAG_G2i65AvM2hSrOiLLJ4vdpKbzawZlFTNSefDAHGYkWoJFBDSqG8y2_TzgaAlS rEALw_wcB) and using aircraft cable to hang.it off the stem. But that seems ugly and I hesitant to jury-rig brakes.

Suggestions?

79pmooney

DIacomp makes a traditional hanger that hangs around an inch lower and includes a cable release lever. It's rather nice. I bought front and rear last year, new. I think they are still in production. I paid just ordinary bike shop prices, not any NOS jack-up.

Edit: there are also brass? curve tubes that replace that cable housing stop. They make for a nice smooth cable bend. A housing from an aero-style brake lever will turn nicely into it. Don't have a name for you. I purchased mine in some distant century and I highly doubt they are still made.

Second edit: You could also drill the stem and run the cable or cable plus housing through it. Bikes have come new with that. I wouldn't because I am superstitious about the "path" of forces from my hands to the road; ie bars, stem, steerer, fork, front wheel. I gambled once and lost - big time.

Piff 

Tons of them on ebay. Just search 'quick release cable hanger' and grab whichever one is your favorite.

steelbikeguy

I've rotated the hangar on the steerer tube so that the adjuster barrel isn't directly below the stem. It doesn't look quite as nice and symmetrical, but it works fine.
If your hanger is keyed to the steerer tube, my idea would require filing off the key on the hanger.

Steve in Peoria

79pmooney

And I bet it does less to push the rim to the side than a "properly centered" dual pivot brake. (Watch the rim when you squeeze any Shimano dual pivot. The rim gets pushed a couple of mms to the side. I set my dual pivots cockeyed so the rim stays put.) "dual pivot" in bold and italic because centerpulls are the real dual pivots.

Classtime 

I always wanted a Paul.
https://www.paulcomp.com/shop/compon...-cable-hanger/

Garthr

Dia Compe makes a flexible linear brake noodle that's applicable here, called a "Flexi" that has a cable adjuster and comes in silver or black. It's just a noodle with standard cable ends of course(one in, one out), so it's not limited to, or by, any brake type it's applied to. Porkchop BMX sell them both. https://www.porkchopbmx.com/search/flexie/

If the cable noodle rubs against the stem and that bothers you, a little clear Racers Tape will do, or heck, even clear packing tape if you have nothing else.

bwilli88 

Firstly, get rid of that butt ugly threadless stem and get a real stem.
That bike calls for a retro stem since you are building a retro roadie bike.





This is my 81, I think I used the same thing on my 83 but that had cantis.

Germany_chris

For canti's I use Paul hangers and RH cable yokes.

cyccommute 

You are using a threadless adapter. You can raise the stem a little to give you some more room. That adjustment barrel is also a bit tall. You can get a shorter one and/or lose the jam nut under it to get some room, especially if the hanger is threaded.

tgot 

Thanks to all who replied. I found DiaCompe hangers on eBay that appear to be significantly lower, and will go that route.

If the routing still seems too tight, I will file off the tab and accept a slight diagonal pull.

tgot 

I confess that I don't see how that helps. Is it just stiffer than housing, and so less.likely to crimp at the sharp bend?

​​

Garthr

They're more flexible than regular housing, hence the name "flexi". It's able to negotiate tight bends where brake housing would want to straighten itself out.

jdawginsc 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/19547387075...3ABFBMyIbZ1IBi

bark_eater 

I've used a flexible V-brake noodle above a hanger, to get under a stem, where the cable housing wouldn't make the bend. I think I got the noodle from Problem Solvers.

El Chaba

Late to the party, but you do need a hanger that is lower allowing more room to route the cable. Failing that, if the stem is of sturdy construction, you can drill the stem directly over top the brake straddle cable and use the stem as the cable stop. Drill a small hole big enough to comfortable clear the cable all the way through and at the top drill a larger hole big enough to clear the cable casing and an end ferrule to act as the casing stop. Drill the larger hole only deep enough to clear about half the length of a ferrule. (Just to increase photo content in the thread a lower front cable hanger is pictured)

Kabuki12

A longer hanger would help but I think , ultimately , a different stem would be the best solution .

El Chaba

Maybe both….

mpetry912 

you can find a hanger with a noodle to accept a cable entry from the front

somebody suggested using a stainless steel "noodle" from a V brake - great idea

I don't care for the ones that hang way down as they will hit the top tube if the steering is deflected too far.

/markp

mpetry912 

Hey tgot I got the part you need right here !

this will solve your problem

/markp

tgot 

I'll see how the lower-hanging ones I ordered seem to work. I did afterwards see hangers that had the little angled noodle like that.
​​​​​​Not sure where I get adjustment with that solution, though.

Dfrost 

Another option would be a cable stop that bolts to the fender attachment hole in the fork crown and extends upward for clearance above the straddle cable. Sorry, no photos to offer.

Ive dealt with quite a few of the “cable stop hole in the stem” on bikes rebuilt for Bike Works in Seattle (https://bikeworks.org) and they work, but make any changes in stem height a pain.

lionkok

are these really better?

Dfrost 

Which of the many ideas suggested are asking about? Regardless, all the ideas in this thread work fine, if they’re set up and adjusted correctly.

lionkok

Thank you - you are probably right, I have cantilever brakes, setting them up properly and using them properly makes all the difference