rsbob 

We have had 3 legacy wagons, two were outbacks. Wonderful cars in snow and cheap to operate. I don’t feel like an Italian count either - just a lucky shmoe.

Russ Roth

And I thought I was doing good with 109k miles on my mazda minivan before doing the front pads, at least the accessory belt is still going strong at 157k miles but I might replace it when I finally do the shocks this month.

Only thing I gained from this is that the OP buys cheap brake pads for the car and those things are always worth the extra cost for good stopping.
I consider myself somewhat "frugal" when it comes to cars, bought my minivan new for 19.5k in 2014 and have done very little work, but when I have to do the work, like I now think its time for shocks, I always pick the real OEM, not oem-like, or the upgrade. I want to make sure the problem goes away and stays away and cheap parts on a vehicle I will drive down 95 at 90mph, or faster, needs to have good stuff. Never cheap out where it matters.

Koyote

Ditto. I have it serviced at a dealer with OEM parts. 'Course, I've done a grand total of $350 worth of repairs on that car in 11 years and 150k miles.

Between cars I've borrowed and rentals (I've gotten lucky at the rental agency desk a few times - free upgrades), I've driven some nice cars. But I can't fathom spending huge money for something less reliable. Our '22 Honda CR-V Hybrid gets 36mpg with real (mechanical) AWD, has all the modern conveniences, and drives wonderfully.

Outrider1

Andrew, just the title of the thread...

mschwett 

it isn't the cost of the parts that gets me, it's how very short-lived they are. 1,000 mile tires, 1,500 mile brake pads, 3,000 mile rotors, 5,000 miles chains. my bikes gets more miles than my cars, by quite a bit... i have NEVER replaced the brake pads (or rotors, LOL) in either of my current cars... and i've had one since 2002.

LarrySellerz

You bought "top of the line" racing tires and paid the premium, you easily could have paid 15$ or less for a tire but you wanted quality

80s Rider

Don't get me started on the cost of motorbike parts vs car parts!!
Or the cost of motorbike parts vs bicycle parts...

PeteHski

Working out the relative cost of stuff on a weight basis is a bit pointless really.

livedarklions

Seeing your location, I can see why your brake pads don't last, but 1000 mile tires? Really?

chaadster

I get about 1.2k miles out of performance bike tires on the rear, but I’m also quite heavy and I’m sure that’s a factor, as are power and riding style.

livedarklions

That makes sense. What tires are you using?

seypat

I'm in the process of buying a remanufactured transmission for my 3500 delivery van. It has around 277,000 miles on it. Looking online, it will cost $1700-$2500. What does that type of coin get you in Ultegra/DA drivetrain groups?

burnthesheep

Thanks! That even proves my point further! I'm out of touch on those prices.

The worst is when folks involved in triathlon, duathlon, or time trial argue about the cost of needing a different bike to be competitive. I have this argument ALL the time with folks in that world of amateur and hobbyist racers. Then you see them in person someday and they drive home in a $40k, $50k, $60k car with the most expensive tray bike rack. And I just have to roll my eyes a bit. The argument goes "the bike keeps people from participating". Then I go to the local huge A+/A/B/C group ride and the median bike value in at least the A+ thru B's is easily $3k. Possibly regionally dependent there, that's just local to me.

It boils down to priorities. I do no prioritize having an expensive motor vehicle. I prioritize having one that is paid for, reliable, and has the basic level of comfort necessary to get to/from work. That's it. I instead prioritize having nice bike equipment.

Other one people don't realize is folks that run marathons put in enough miles per week that IF they're changing out and buying run shoes like they should be to prevent injury running on worn shoes..........they can spend $1000 a year on run shoes. Some of the "fast" and "modern" run shoes that you can both train and race in are like $200 a pair. And if you run in them like 40 miles a week, that's several pairs a year. Then add on a 'race day' pair in the $250 range. I train in an Endorphin Speed and race in an Endorphin Pro. About $150 and $200 each when not on sale. Again, priorities.

chaadster

1.2k is typical for me on Schwalbe Pro One. I got half that on my last Hutchinson Glactik rear, which blew open in spectacular fashion after a very brief lockup coming downhill. No doubt the lockup was the immediate cause, but examining the aftermath, the entire tread was incredibly worn and thin, much more than I would have expected for what wasn’t two months of use.

Here’s the thread I made on that incident:

https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycl...r-blowout.html

seypat

Training for the fall marathons started last week. I run in Kinvaras. Get about 300 miles out of them. Usually try to buy last year's shoes. The 10 didn't fit my foot, though, so I hoarded the 9s and 11s. Same for the 12. It didn't fit either, so more hoarding of the 11s. I'm going to try the 13s this afternoon, but I've read their sizing is off as well. Currently online trying to find some more 11's in my size even if it means an ugly colorway. My current pair has about 250 miles on them. I have 1 pair on the shelf in waiting, but need at least 1 more pair to get through the season. Might have to find a similar shoe and abandon the Kinvaras. Not many simple, basic low drop shoes out there anymore, though

Edit: I've found a couple of pairs across the country in colorways I've already used or ugly ones. Listed with no discounts + shipping. I guess they read the reviews about the changes in the Kinvara 12s and 13s. It could be worse. My wife runs in NB1080s. She forked over $160 for a new pair on Sunday.

livedarklions

Not accusing you of doing this, but I do think it's a bit silly to complain about tires that are not designed for long durability not being very durable when put to hard use. I think you're very clear-eyed about this and there isn't a complaint implied by any of your posts, so that isn't aimed at you.

Since the comparison in the thread is between car tires and bike tires, I think there's two obvious reasons these mileage figures aren't really comparable. Obviously, car tires can be MUCH heavier per the size of the contact patch, bike tires can't just be miniaturized versions of car tires because the motor/rider would be grossly overburdened trying to propel that weight. In general, thickness=weight=durability, so the implications of that are rather obvious. Also, people aren't generally driving their cars on (thin) racing tires that are obviously not optimized for durability.

livedarklions

So is your observation that you find it weird that some people prioritize having a nice car (perhaps for several people to ride around in) over spending a lot of money on a second or third bike needed to be competitive in another hobbyist cycling event?

Koyote

Wow. I get way more than 1,000 miles on even rear tires, and I ride relatively light and fast rubber. Just replaced a rotor after >10k miles of service, and my pads tend to last over 6k miles. I do only get about 2k miles from chains, but I ride a fair bit of gravel.

You must either be extremely hard on gear, or you're replacing these items way too often.

livedarklions

mschwett is posting from San Francisco. That might explain the low numbers somewhat. I lived there for a couple years, densely urban and super-hilly does work your brakes and drive train a lot. I really hadn't considered locking the brakes and the effect on tires there when I thought 1k miles was low.

burnthesheep

Yes, as long as the "nice car" is in clear excess of what is plenty comfortable and utile. I am not observing that people aren't willing to give up what they need for their family. I'm observing that these folks clearly have the means to own what bike they wish, and the car proves it.

It's a luxury to buy more car than you need. The same as the luxury of buying 2nd and 3rd bikes or a single super super fancy bike.

My point is if those folks driving $60k cars like the bike thing THAT much, maybe they can figure out how to get away with owning a $40k car instead.

My observation with the caveat.......not everyone is in the situation of that choice. Some drive a crap car and have to do what they can to afford the bike. I realize that. But the complaining in triathlon and time trial for it is often pretty laughable.

Troul 

i probably could get 85 miles out of a tank using 110 octane while in boost & hammering the throttle 90% of the time. Wouldn't make it far if used anything less than 110 octane.
A taco & some salsa would get me farther on my bicycle, but a couple of bananas could propel me just as far, just less desire to do so.

Koyote

Yeah, I suppose that could explain it! I was in a very hilly area, too...But when you combine hills with urban traffic, there might be even more braking.

I just moved back to the Great Plains, though, so am now looking forward to never again replacing any brake components.

seypat

Ordered a pair from the Zon with the colorway I'm currently running in. I can slot them in behind the ones on deck. That way, I won't be running in the same colorway on 2 consecutive pairs. Have to keep those priorities intact.

Koyote

The average new vehicle may cost over $40k, but that amount buys something that was almost inconceivable (at any price) when I started driving in 1978. In terms of performance, features, reliability, safety, comfort, mpg -- in terms of pretty much everything -- our new 2022 vehicle is light years beyond the cars on which I learned to drive, and beyond anything that was available back then at any price. And our new car was only $39k out-the-door.

We could've easily afforded to spend more on a new car, but we just don't see the point. And we really don't see the point in spending more money for some semi-exotic car that will be less reliable and more expensive to service and repair. But that's just us.

mschwett 

slight exaggeration. 700x26 turbo cotton (came with the bike) rear tire, was toast after 1,200 or so. replaced it with a matching one because the front was at around 50% based on the dots. closing in on 2,000, looks like it’ll last to 2,500 total or so.

obviously these are not meant for long life, but pretty extreme for a tire you can just go into a bike shop and buy - and comes stock on some bikes.

i got more like 2k, maybe 2,500 out of GP5000s. still very short relative to cost, especially compared to high performance car tires!